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How the Bajau came to live in Tempasuk, otherwise known as Kota Belud today

Before it was named Kota Belud, this district was widely known as Tempasuk.

It is located at the midpoint of the highway connecting Sabah’s state capital Kota Kinabalu with Kudat town near the northern tip of Sabah.

Many regard the town of Kota Belud as the unofficial capital and gateway to the heartland of the West Coast Bajau people.

Besides the West Coast Bajau, the town is also home to the Dusun, Illanun and Chinese peoples.

The West Coast Bajau are often referred to as Bajau-Sama, Sama Kota Belud or sometimes Bajau Kota Belud.

This is to distinguish them from the East Coast Bajau or Sama Dilaut or Sama Laut who settled in the eastern coast of Sabah.

How did the Bajau-Sama people first come to Tempasuk in the olden days?

British anthropologist Ivor H.N. Evans in his book Among Primitive peoples in Borneo might have the answer where he collected a range of local stories told in the oral tradition.

How the Bajau came to live in Tempasuk, otherwise known as Kota Belud today
West Coast Bajau horsemen in their hometown of Kota Belud, with Mount Kinabalu behind them. Credits: Creative Commons
Tempasuk and the kendilong tree

There is a tree which the locals call kendilong. Although it had sap that was clear as water, it was also very irritating to the skin. The tree also proved to be a great home for bees.

A long time ago, there was a poor Dusun man who dreamed that if he could find a kendilong tree he would become rich.

So the man set out to look for one. He discovered one just as night was about to fall. Since it was late, he decided to spend the night.

The next morning, the man left and later returned with two companions.

After collecting the sap, the man noticed there was a bee’s nest on top of the tree. They collected the nest, although they did not know what to do with it.

On their way back, they came across a Bajau man who had come up the river in a boat.

At the time, Bajaus did not live in Tempasuk yet. The Bajau man offered to help the Dusun man sell his bee’s nest, and share the profit between them.

Being practical, he also asked the Dusun man to collect more nests, in case they really were profitable.

So the two men swore an oath of brotherhood, sacrificing a hen to mark the occasion.

While the Bajau sailed away, the Dusun man searched hard for bee’s nests.

Three months later, the Bajau man returned to Tempasuk, his tongkang filled with goods from the sale of the bees nest to share with him just as he promised.

Imagine how happy he was to see that the Dusun man’s house was full of bee’s nests.

Seeing the start of a mutually beneficial friendship, that was how the alliance formed between the Dusun and the Bajau. Eventually, the Bajau resettled in Tempasuk while the Dusun learned the use of beeswax.

#DearKajo: More legends from Semabang about people being turned to stone

#DearKajo: More legends from Semabang about people being turned to stone
Like what you read on KajoMag? Share your thoughts with us! Give your feedback in English through the contact form. KajoMag reserves the right to edit letters for clarity and length. Only letters regarding KajoMag’s articles will be published under #DearKajo.

DearKajo,

I saw your re-publication of the great stories about people or buildings turned to stone.

There are two more that are almost identical and both relate to villages named Semabang in the Sadong River basin.

Because of their similarity in names and stories, I thought they were about one place but they are actually about two.

I’ll give you the oldest first; it’s about the famous and majestic Silabur cave in Serian.

1.This legend of the ancestors of a Sadong chief is recorded in Natives of Sarawak and North Borneo by Henry Ling Roth. It is based on the Mss. of the late Hugh Brooke Low, Sarawak Government Service. 1896.

“It was many, many years ago that a Dyak, of Semabang (in Sadong), and his young son arrived, after a long journey through the jungle, at a village called Si-Lébor. The village was extensive, the Dyaks very numerous. On arriving, the chief of the tribe placed food before the older visitor, but to his young son they offered nothing.

The little fellow seeing this, and being very hungry after his journey, felt much hurt, and began to cry. “To my father” said he, “you have given food, the priok (pot) of rice is before him, the fatted pig has been killed” “everything you have given him; why do you give me nothing?”

But the child’s appeal was useless. These strange Dyaks had hearts of stone; not a morsel was handed to the fatigued and hungry little wayfarer; so he wept on, and wept in vain.

“After a while the boy looked more cheerful; he had dried his tears, and was now engaged in catching a dog and a cat. These he put together on the mat, round which all the people were seated. The cat and the dog played, or more likely, as these animals will do, fought together; but whatever it was, there was something so ludicrous in it all, while the boy sat over them and set them at each other, that the whole assemblage burst into immoderate laughter.

The boy, it would seem, was working some spell there was an object in what he had been doing. Perhaps he was in communication with evil spirits, or under their influence; there was something ominous about it, we know not what.

But, to proceed, presently the sky became overcast, and gradually great volumes of black clouds came sailing up, propelled by great gusts of wind; one by one they rolled along, and were heaped up one on top of another, or got all broken up, as it were, in their collision.

The sky appeared one mass of confusion, looking blacker and more angry as the sun gradually disappeared in the darkness. At last the storm burst forth with a fury never known before; sharp flashes of lightning, followed by awful peals of thunder, succeeded one another, fast and furious; the very ground below shook as the palm leaf quivers in the breeze it seemed as if the great end of all things was at hand.

“Now commenced a gradual but awful change. Amidst the rolling thunder and the dazzling lightning, which only served to make the awful darkness visible, the village, the houses, all began to dissolve, to melt away, as it were, into burning lava, and, with his works, man perished likewise. There you might see the grey-headed chief starting up with his grandson in his arms, but ere reaching the door, being gradually hardened into stone. There mothers would be seen flying with their little ones to escape the same dreadful fate, but all in vain. There a young and helpless maiden would be clinging to her brave warrior, to that arm which had always been the first to help her, which could surely save her now.

Alas, that cruel transformation. The living light in those bright eyes is gone, the tender grasp of that warm hand is cold; from flesh and blood they too pass away into senseless petrifactions, whilst, mingling with the shrieks and yells, and invocations of the men and the Borich, would still be heard the boom of the thunder and the crackling of the houses.

Not a man, woman, or child “no, nor even a visitor” at that fated village, save only the neglected boy, was left alive to mourn the loss of his all. One after another, they all melted, and were changed, when the heat of the storm was over, into solid rock. Houses and all in them succumbed beneath the fiery elements, and when the storm ceased, all lay, not a heap of charred ruins, but huge masses of smoking stone.

“A hill with great precipices now marks the spot where this tragedy occurred, and on the hill (itself the transformed village) are still pointed out, if people speak truth, the traces of petrified houses. An upright rock is shown as the transformed figure of a Malay, an unhappy visitor on that awful day. There he stands with his hand still fixed on his sword hilt, once a living soul, now’ a lifeless stone.

The whole scene indeed is a standing monument at once of the crime of inhospitality and its fearful punishment. Gazing on his revenge, the youth retreated. He returned to his native village, Semabang: and time flew on, and here he died, he was the chief of his tribe, the grey-headed patriarch appealed to by the new and rising generation.

Years and hundreds of years rolled away, fathers and mothers passed off the stage, and young children grew up to take their places, to attain manhood, to work, to become old, to die too; and so time went on, and children danced and played over the same ground that their ancestors had danced and played on for centuries before.

“At last, no great time ago, the tribe of Semabang having flourished and become populous and rich, a young chief, the lineal descendant of the little hungry boy, dreamed that great riches were in store for him and his tribe if they went to Mount Si-Lebor, the petrified village.

The next day a party was organized, and they went there and searched. They at last discovered a magnificent cave. With lighted torches they entered, and found it to be very extensive and full of the celebrated edible birds-nests.

“Ah”, said they, “this is our portion, instead of that which was denied to our ancestor; his due was refused then, it has now been given to us, his descendants; this is our balas (revenge).” Thousands and thousands of birds-nests they brought out of the cave, which realized many reals (Mexican dollars) to the discoverers. The Si-Lebor caves are now said to be the richest, and the tribe possessing them (the Semabang youth’s descendants) the wealthiest and most prosperous in Sadong.”

Charles T.C. Grant, “A Tour amongst the Dyaks of Sarawak in 1858”

The old village of Kg. Gahat Semabang is now known as Kg. Gahat Mawang.

One can see how the story has changed over time here.

2.The second legend about petrification related to Semabang

Now there is another Semabang that is close to Simunjan. The famous naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace visited this longhouse around 1856 to collect orangutans.

There is a smaller cave close to this village (no longhouses) now entirely surrounded by palm oil plantation and a legend similar to the one recorded by Charles Grant is known here.

Small boy and his father, small boy is teased and not given food, and he curses the villagers and a huge torrential rain falls that turns the longhouse into stone. Wallace did not mention or know of the cave, it seems, though he must have passed within a few hundred meters on the river.

J. Drawhorn

Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands

Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands
The Fountain of Youth for Krayan Highlands is rather accessible.

Tales of the fountain of youth have been recounted across the world for centuries. Supposedly, it is a spring that restores the youth of anyone who drinks or bathes in its water.

Up on the valley of Krayan Highlands in North Kalimantan, Indonesia, there is a small stream which might be the local equivalent of the fountain of youth.

Located at an altitude between 760m and 1200m, the Krayan Highlands in the Heart of Borneo is an important site to maintain the sustainability of Borneo’s last remaining of rainforests.

The Dayak Lundayeh people there call it Air Bunga (or flower water in Indonesian language).

It is water that flows from a small stream named Ba’ Sarang near the village of Tang Paye.

Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands
Wash your face with Air Bunga and you might wash away some wrinkles.
Air Bunga, the healing water used for generations
Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands
Besides washing your face, you can also drink the water straight from the bamboo pipes.

Located about 5-minutes walk from the village hall, the water has been used for generations by Lundayeh people living in the Krayan Highlands.

Just like the Fountain of Youth, the locals believe the water has anti-aging properties as well as healing powers.

According to local guide Alex Ballang, the locals would collect the water and keep some for storage at home.

Those who live in the surrounding villages besides Tang Payeh, would also come and take some Air Bunga for various reasons.

“If you have itchiness on your body or even your eyes, you can take a bath using this water or go to the stream to take a dip,” Alex said.

The locals also use it to clean their wounds, believing it would prevent infections.

Besides using Air Bunga externally, the locals also consume it believing it would cure minor sicknesses such as stomachache.

Some even use the water for daily activities such as cooking.

Another reason why the locals believe that Air Bunga is a miraculous source of water, is that it never run dries even during drought season.

Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands
The water never run dries even during dry season.
Conserving Air Bunga
Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands
The walk to Ba’ Sarang requires visitors to stroll through paddy fields.

Nobody really knows how Air Bunga was discovered. Regardless, this traditional knowledge has been passed down for so long that the current generation decided to conserve the miraculous stream.

They built a small concrete dam to collect the water and use two simple bamboo pipes for the water to flow.

To maintain the place, the villagers do not allow any clearing of the forest near the stream.

Additionally, they are looking forward to the area to becoming a tourist attraction site. The villagers strongly suggest those who visit the place for the first time to bathe or wash their faces there. With that, the visitors can experience first-hand the healing properties of Air Bunga.

It does not matter if the water of Ba’ Sarang is truly miraculous or not, Air Bunga is another reason why the Heart of Borneo initiative is an area like no places in the world.

This initiative of Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia aims to improve management and governance of protected areas while documenting important biodiversity areas that are conserved by local communities.

While it is important to protect an forest area for its environmental value, it is equally important to conserve it for its cultural value just like this Krayan Highlands’ Fountain of Youth.

Air Bunga, the Fountain of Youth in the Krayan Highlands
Whether it is truly the Fountain of Youth, it is still nice and chilling to wash your face with Air Bunga.

First plane sightings over Sarawak; where planes were (nearly) as rare as unicorns

Sarawak’s first experiences with aviation can be dated back as early as 1922 when a Dutch flying boat was spotted flying over Belaga, about 20 years after the Wright brothers made their successful flights at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina.

Fast forward to 1924, another plane flew over the skies of Sarawak, and this time over Kuching.

Here comes an interesting fact about those particular planes; their flight paths were not planned.

The first plane to be spotted in Sarawak’s skies

The first flight to fly into Sarawak airspace was a Dutch flying boat from Dutch Borneo (current day Kalimantan) which strayed over into Belaga.

The event was first reported on The Sarawak Gazette in Sept 2, 1922 issue. However, the gazette at that time was not able to verify the incident.

“On the authority of a native officer we are informed that an aeroplane or some other flying vessel, came over Belaga fort about 8.30pm on the 14th August.

“We are told that she turned a search-light on to the fort and was flying quite low; the noise of her engines could be distinctly heard and our informant is quite certain about the matter.

“If this story is true we imagine that this is the first time any flying vessel has come over Sarawak.”

The gazette then confirmed the incident of the strayed flight and its identity in its October issue that year.

According to the report, the then third division resident verified the event stating, “Java Post confirms flying boat visited Borneo going north near Pemangkat then east inland to Kapuas 500 kilometres plainly seen close Belaga Fort fired Verey light over Belaga 8pm returning east.”

(A Verey, now spelled as Very, is a flare gun used to create illumination for improved vision or as a distress signal.)

Furthermore, the aviation company which owned the plane is now the oldest airline in the world still operating under its original name.

The plane which was a flying boat, was actually on a test flight for a feeder service in connection with the proposed Koninklijke Luchtvaart Maatschappij (today more familiarly known simply as KLM) London-Singapore route.

Response to the first plane

The Sarawak Gazette report writer then commented on how surprised the locals could be looking at an airplane for the first time in their lives.

“People at home are so used to seeing airships and aeroplanes flying overhead that Europeans in this country may find it difficult at first to realise what a novelty it must be for natives.

“Not long ago the people of Kuching were given an opportunity of seeing submarines, vessels that go under the water, and now the Belaga natives have seen a vessel which flies over land and water.

“It is true that many of the more intelligent natives have read of flying vessels, and probably some have seen them depicted on the films, but to those who were at all sceptical, and we believe there were many so, it is now proved without a doubt that the urang puteh can build ships that fly through the air.”

The spirit of the old rajah?

Meanwhile in October 1924, it was Kuching residents’ turn to see an airplane for the first time.

HMS Pegasus was an aircraft carrier/seaplane carrier bought by the Royal Navy in 1917 during the First World War.

During the last year of the war, Pegasus was stationed in the North Sea but saw no combat.

Then most of 1919 and 1920, she spent her days as a carrier supporting British intervention in North Russia and the Black Sea.

From 1924-1925, Pegasus was stationed briefly in Singapore. When she was on her way from Singapore to Miri, Pegasus sent one of her seaplanes to fly over Kuching.

It landed along the stretch of Sarawak river in front of Main Bazaar. However, the reason for its landing was not reported.

The interesting part was its arrival coincided with the unveiling ceremony of the Rajah Charles Brooke Memorial in front of the old courthouse.

According to Vincent Foo and Chai Foh Chin in Story of the Sarawak Steamship Company, some members of the large crowd even thought it was the spirit of the old rajah returning.

While other countries had planned flights to mark their firsts in aviation history, the first two planes to ever fly over Sarawak were accidental.

First plane sightings over Sarawak; where planes were (nearly) as rare as unicorns
The first aeroplane to have landed in Sarawak. Credits: Ho Ah Chon [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

An amusing story of papayas during WWII in Kuching

During World War II (WWII), Batu Lintang camp housed both Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and civilian internees.

The living conditions within the compounds were cramped. The occupants were separated into different compounds and groups, namely British officers and non-commissioned officers (NCOs), Australian officers and NCOs, Dutch officers and NCOs, British other ranks, British Indian Army, Indonesian soldiers, Roman Catholic priests and religious men, male civilian internees and female civilian internees.

There were altogether 110 priests and religious Catholics, including 44 Capuchin friars, five Mountfort missionaries, 22 Brothers of Huijbergen and 38 Mill Hill missionaries.

These priests and religious men who were mostly Dutch and Irish, had a large plot of land to grow vegetables and fruits in their compound.

Meanwhile, other compounds such as those that belonged to the Australian, Dutch and British officers had not enough land for cultivation.

Besides vegetables and fruits, the priests happened to be successful in growing papayas.

According to The Sarawak Gazette report (Apr 1, 1947), it was not a surprise to see a Japanese soldier came to their compound asking for papayas.

He said that his chief needed three papayas immediately and they must be large and fully ripe.

The priests then obeyed, giving the soldier the papayas that he demanded.

Lieutenant-Colonel Tatsuji Suga and ‘his papayas’
An amusing story of papayas during WWII in Kuching

Then Lieutenant-Colonel Tatsuji Suga came into the picture. He was the commander of all Prisoner-of-War (POW) and civilian internment camps in Borneo .

Suga was believed to be a Christian. There were accounts of him attending church services at the internment camps during the war.

Within an hour after the three priests reluctantly surrendered their papayas to the Japanese, a messenger arrived from the camp commandment office.

He said that the Lieutenant-Colonel would like to see the three priests, whom he learned were all over 70 years of age.

So the priests quickly wore their best robes and proceeded to the office where they met with Suga.

Suga told the priests that while he treated all his prisoners sympathetically, he was particularly considerate of the aged.

“That being so he trusts his visitors will accept as a token of his respect and appreciation, a small gift.”

And guess what? He handed to each priest, one very succulent papaya.

Tom Harrisson’s own account of The Airmen and the Headhunters incident

The Airmen and the Headhunters: A True Story of Lost Soldiers, Heroic Tribesmen and the Unlikeliest Rescue of World War II is a book written by Judith M. Heimann.

It tells the story of how a group of American airmen was rescued by the locals during the Japanese occupation of Borneo.

The event was also made into an episode of the PBS television series “Secrets of the Dead”.

One of the key players of the rescue was Major Tom Harrisson, a British polymath who later served as Sarawak museum curator after WWII.

During the war, he was attached to Z Special Unit, as part of the Service Reconnaissance Department (SRD).

On March 25, 1945, Harrisson parachuted with seven Z Force operatives into the Kelabit Highlands.

That was when he and his unit became credited for helping the stranded American airmen.

Tom Harrisson’s own account of The Airmen and the Headhunters incident
Airmen and the Headhunters was featured in PBS’s Secret of the Dead. Credits: Youtube
The Airmen and the Headhunters, according to Australian-British Reward Mission

After the war, Major R. K. Dyce who represented the British government in the Australian-British Reward Mission wrote an article “Heroism in the Limbang” for The Sarawak Gazette (June 2, 1947).

“About the end of January or in early February 1945, a US Liberator made a crash belly landing about a mile from Kampung Telahak on the Sungai Limbang in Sarawak. Nine of the crew survived the crash. One was dead.”

From there, the story continues on how these nine American airmen were harboured and escorted by different groups of different races in Sarawak, British North Borneo (now Sabah) and Dutch Borneo (now Kalimantan).

The first group of locals who rescued them was the residents of Kampung Telahak led by their village head (ketua kampung) Mohamed Dolamit.

“The kampung people led the Americans out of the sodden paddy field on which they had landed into the village; washed them, fed them, helped them bury their dead comrade, equipped them with parangs, and planned their escape.”

Tom Harrisson’s own account of The Airmen and the Headhunters incident
Today’s Limbang river.
The escape plan for the nine Americans

Then, Mohamed started to draft an escape plan for the nine Americans. His plan was to guide the Americans by paths which avoided Japanese-occupied localities to a wise and influential old Penghulu Masing to the southeast on the Pandaruan river.

“The practice is, in an operation of this kind, to hand on the “passengers” from longhouse to longhouse and kampung to kampung,” Major Dyce reported.

After being handed over from one community to another community, the nine airmen finally arrived in Ulu Matang, somewhere near Long Pa’ Sia, Sabah.

This was where they separated with the first party proceeded to Dutch Borneo where they met up with Harrisson’s SRD party. Meanwhile, the other four who headed north were killed by the locals.

Dyce reported in 1947, “The story of the episode and its aftermath is still alive in the kampungs and longhouses, but most of the helpers concerned looked for no material reward.”

Local administrations knew how much these heroic natives had helped the Americans.

However, Dyce explained that the shortage of staff and overwork by the then local administration back then delayed in giving them proper recognition.

Tom Harrisson’s article on The Airmen and the Headhunters incident

According to Harrisson, Major Dyce’s Heroism in Limbang did not quite “give a complete picture of the amazing Borneo careers of those American airmen and of other who were cared for and protected with the same extraordinary loyalty and self-sacrifice by the peoples of the Limbang, Trusan, Padas and Mentarang rivers.”

Harrisson clarified the exact date when the plane was shot down, stating that it was on Jan 12, 1945.

The crashed crew proceeded from Limbang to Padas where they split up just as Dyce reported. The pilot Lieutenant-Commander Smith heard that there were American guerrillas in Kudat, the northern side of Sabah.

He decided to head there and three of the crew agreed to follow him.

Unfortunately, the moment they reached Tomani near Tenom, the group was betrayed by the locals.

A Japanese unit which came from Beaufort via Tenom surprised them in a village at night.

One of them was speared by the locals while another one was shot by a British North Borneo constable officer.

Their bodies were decapitated and distributed among the locals. Meanwhile, Smith surrendered and the fourth man escaped into the jungle. They spent a week hunting him down, but in the end, he too was captured and taken to Beaufort together with Smith.

According to Harrisson, his unit was about to make a rescue mission and kidnap General Masao Baba when the war ended.

At the same time, the Japanese quietly executed the two American soldiers as they were dangerous witnesses.

What happened to the other five crew member?
Tom Harrisson’s own account of The Airmen and the Headhunters incident
A view of Padas river today.

The other five men, “not Kudat-Krazy” men as Harrisson described in his article, went up the Padas river.

From there, they then came over into Kemaloh river in Dutch Borneo. Here, they were looked after by the Pa Putuk people of the Krayan Highlands.

Harrisson stated, “They were also fortunate in meeting a remarkably fine native missionary, William Mohgan of Makassar who could speak some English (and a little American). The Japs, of course, knew these men were somewhere in the interior, but as in the Limbang the people did not betray them, often at grave risk or cost to themselves.”

Nevertheless, they were forced to hide in jungle shelters and suffered great impoverishment through lack of medical supplies, mosquito nets and footwear.

By that time, the five had reunited with six other Americans who were survivors from an American 13th Army Liberator shot down on the Dutch side.

The former museum curator pointed out, “One of this crew wandered alone through the jungle for fourteen days before reaching a lonely mountain village, where he was nursed back to life and became, in a few weeks, quite fluent at Potok (a Lundayeh dialect)- the others never even got beyond the bagus stage of Malay.”

Tom Harrisson’s own account of The Airmen and the Headhunters incident
Today’s Krayan HIghlands from on top of Yuvai Semaring hill.
Harrisson and his unit to the rescue

Harrisson added that he first heard of these airmen in March 1945, who were then about ten days’ walk eastward from Bario.

“Our only medical man at that time, Sergeant F. Sanderson, made a forced march to them, carrying all the stores we could possibly spare and all our comforts (at that time all supplies had to be dropped from Moratai, thirteen hours flying; so the lifeline was slender, with three out of six planes lost in the first weeks).”

Finally, the American airmen had the help they needed from the British soldiers. Harrisson continued: “When they were fit to walk by easy stages over the mountains -harder going in Dutch Borneo than in Sarawak – we brought them into better country, where we prepared an airfield. Some RAAF pilots came in without maps or radio signals to pick the Americans out.”

Harrisson stressed that the behaviour of the native people (except those who betrayed them in Tomani) is a lasting symbol of native morale in these lands.

“And I hope that if it comes to a question of rewards (of which the helpers had no thought at the time) the British North Borneo and Dutch helpers will not be forgotten. For it is sad to admit, but true, that from that day to this no one of any race has had a word of thank you (let alone a tin of peanuts) from those boys to whom they gave back life, liberty and Nashville, Tennessee.”

Sadly, KajoMag’s own digging so far has found no official recognition of the locals’ efforts and contributions (particularly in Pa Putuk and Kampung Telahak) to helping the American airmen evade capture.

How did the rumours of Kayans practising cannibalism spread?

One of the biggest misconceptions of Borneo in the 19th century was that it was a place where cannibalism was common practice.

Plenty of tribes in Borneo were depicted as cannibals in European writing, including the Kayans in Sarawak and Dutch Borneo (Kalimantan).

One account of alleged cannibalism practised among the Kayans was recorded by Sir Henry Keppel.

He received his information from three men named Kusu, Gajah and Rinong from Kapuas.

“I examined them myself, and entertain no doubt of the correctness of these statements, as far as their personal knowledge is concerned. The witnesses themselves stated over and over again, with the utmost clearness, how much they had seen, and how much heard. There was such perfect good faith and simplicity in their stories as to carry conviction of their truth,” Keppel wrote.

How did the rumours of Kayans practising cannibalism spread?
Was cannibalism really being practised in Borneo?
So here is the full testimony of the three men on how they encountered the “cannibalistic Kayans”:

We are of the tribe of Sibaru; which is likewise the name of a branch of the Kapuas river. The tribe of Sibaru contains 2,000 fighting men and is under the government of Pangeran Kuning, who resides at Santang, a Malay town on the Kapuas. We have none of us who resides at Santang, a Malay town on the Kapuas, where the Kayans live, but they often come down to Santang where we meet them. The Kayans are quite independent, very numerous and powerful: they are governed by their own Rajahs, whom they call Takuan. Some of these Kayan tribes are cannibals (makan manusia); it is generally reported, and we know it to be true.

Pangeran Kuning of Santang was at war a few years ago with Pangeran Mahomed of Sewite, a Malay town situated on the Kapuas between Santang and Salimbaw. A large force was collected to attack Suwite. There were Malays (laut) of Santang and Sakadow, and the Dyaks of Sibaru, Samaruang, Dassar and of other tribes; and besides all these, was a party of about fifty Kayans.

We never heard the particular name of this Kayan tribe, for we did not mix with them, not did we understand their language. Suwite was not taken, but a few detached houses were captured, and one man of the enemy was killed in the assault.

Kusu saw these Kayans run small spits of iron, from eight inches to a foot long, into the fleshy parts of the dead men’s legs and arms, from the elbow to the shoulder, and from above the ankle beneath the calf to the knee-joint: and they sliced off the flesh with their swords, and put it into baskets.

They carry these spits, as we all saw, in a case under the scabbard of their swords. They prize heads in the same way as the Dyaks. They took all the fresh off the body, leaving only the big bones, and carried it to their boats, and we all saw them broil and afterward eat it. They ate it with great relish, and it smelt, while cooking, like hog’s flesh. It was not we alone that saw them eat this, but the whole force (bala) saw it.

Men say that many of these interior tribes of Kayans eat human flesh- that of their enemies; most, however, do not, and all of them are represented to be good people and very hospitable; and we never heard that they ate other than the flesh of their enemies. It made us sick to see them, and we were afraid, horrified.

Spencer St John’s records of Kayans practising cannibalism

Just like Keppel, St John did not witness any Kayans practising cannibalism during his time in Sarawak.

However, according to St John, a Malay nobleman named Usup told him that he actually witnessed it.

In 1855, men from Mukah had been executed in Bintulu. A few of the Kayans who helped in their capture took portions of the bodies of the criminals, roasted and ate them.

St John wrote, “This was witnessed by himself and many others who were then present. The Kayans had not, as a body, joined in this disgusting feast; but, perhaps some of the more ferocious may practice it to strike terror into their enemies.”

How did the rumours of Kayans practising cannibalism spread?
Records that the Kayans did not practice cannibalism

Not everybody believed that Kayans practised cannibalism.

Sir Hugh Low wrote that the Kayans were hastily stigmatised as cannibals and added: “nor does any race practicing the horrid custom of feeding on the bodies of their own species, exist on the island.”

The Kayans might not have been the second Rajah of Sarawak Charles Brooke’s favourite tribe, but he never believed that they were capable of cannibalism.

How did the rumours of Kayans practising cannibalism spread?
Here is what he wrote about the Kayans and cannibalism in Borneo:

“This tribe are cowardly, untruthful, and treacherous, and are capable of committing many horrors, but the gravest attached to the Kayans, I feel confident, is without foundation, namely, that of cannibalism. For, during the expedition of 1863, there was no sign of it, and I had abundant opportunities of making strict enquiry in the very heart of the country.

“Many reports of this description are spread by the enemies of a people to degrade them in the estimation of Europeans. Such reports are purely fabulous, and I do not believe any tribes are cannibals in this part of Borneo, although stories go far to lead one to a contrary belief.”

However, a group of Malays told the Rajah that they did see pieces of human flesh in bamboo during a visit to Kapuas region and that they were used as provision.

“I regret that I am unable positively, to contradict such statements; but it is my firm conviction cannibalism is not practiced on any part of the island of Borneo,” Brooke wrote.

Do bear in mind that all written reports of alleged cannibalism among Kayans were written by the Europeans after listening to secondary sources. Thus, some information might have gotten lost in translation. None of these 19th century writers had actually seen any Kayans eating human flesh.

Another theory was that this rumour was spread by the local guides to discourage the Europeans from travelling further inland of Borneo.

Imagine refusing to bring your client to a place by telling them it is full of cannibals.

Preparing for war expeditions in Sarawak during the 19th century

Be it a punitive excursion or a tribal feud, war expeditions way back in the 19th century Sarawak took a lot of time and resources to prepare.

Taking the infamous cholera expedition in 1902, the second White Rajah Charles Brooke brought 10,000 men to fight against the alleged rebels up Batang Lupar.

Imagine 10,000 men moving up one river and setting up camps at one large landing site.

And can you imagine the impact of these war expeditions on the environment and natural resources back then?

At the same time, preparing to feed up to thousands of men during these expeditions must have been a lot of work.

Preparing for war expeditions in Sarawak during the 19th century
Panau, one of the Iban warriors who joined Charles Brooke on his punitive expedition to Batang Lupar.
Here at KajoMag, we look at different accounts on how war expeditions were prepared in Sarawak during the 19th century.
1.Charles Brooke in Ten Years in Sarawak (1866)

It is customary to announce a coming war expedition for such and such a season at one of the great feasts, when the village is thronged with guests from the country far and near, and when there is sure to be an unusual gathering of powerful chiefs.

The speaker, who must be a great chief, gives his reason, that his people wish to put off mourning, or that his people have been slain and he must have some revenge, and he ends by inviting all present to accompany him on an incursion upon an ancient enemy.

If he be a chief of any real influence he is sure to secure an ample following, in reality more than enough for his purposes, but his ambition expands as his numbers increase and his warpath assumes grander proportions.

The women lend their assistance to induce their husbands and lovers to join this warpath.

The details are then discussed, the amount of bekals (supply) necessary, the route, the character and number of enemy, etc.

Choosing the date

The period usually selected for any expeditions on a large scale is that immediately after the seed planting or after the harvest; the former time better, and have three months clear before they are required to gather in the harvest. In the latter case they would probably have no farms at all for that year, as they would have no dry the clearings, which, therefore, would not burn well.

The Dyaks are never in a hurry in setting off. They cook and feed at leisure, and commence walking about half-past seven, and the morning meal keeps them going until late in the afternoon; they certainly get over more ground by following this plan.

2.Brooke Low in Catalogue of the Brooke-Low Collection in Borneo

Occasionally, however, the delay is so great that the force becomes for the purpose for which it was called together.

The women are everywhere busy preparing the bekals, and the produce of the gardens are taken to the nearest market to exchange for tobacco, gambir etc. The men on their part have been busy in getting the war boats ready, launching them into the river, lashing on the planks and fitting them up with palm leaf awnings and bamboo floorings.

Those who are able to purchase the material, plane the bottom of their canoes to make them smooth and tar them to preserve them, make figure heads for the bows, and paint the side planks in various patterns. They take nets with them to fish by the way, and dogs to hunt with if the distance is so great that they are likely to run short of food, but their chief support on an expedition of this kind is what they find on the banks and in the forest-especially the wild sago. The men are very busy furbishing up their arms and sharpening their weapons and decorating their helmets and war jackets.

The chief is always the first to leave the village, and as the first and chief part of the journey is by the water, he pulls away in a his canoe, and at some convenient distance from the village, he bivouacs for the night to beburong- to consult the omen birds. If the omens by birds are favourable, he proceeds to the tryst and there awaits the force as it dribbles in one by one or few by few.

Preparing for war expeditions in Sarawak during the 19th century
An Illustration of Iban war boat published in The Natives of Sarawak and British North Borneo (1896). Credits: Creative Common.
3.Spenser St. John in Life in the Forest Far East (1862)

They start with, perhaps, two days’ provisions, and trust to hunting for food. If they find a spot where game is plentiful, they stay there till it is exhausted; if the jungle produce no sport, they live on the cabbages taken from the palms, on the edible fern, on snakes, or anything, in fact that they can find.

If they come across bees’ nests, they stop to secure the wax and honey. If they come across bees’ nest, they stop to secure the wax and honey. Time is no value to them, as they generally start after the harvest, and many parties are said to have taken six months.

Preparing for war expeditions in Sarawak during the 19th century
M0005506 Punan’s heads taken by Sea Dayaks Credit: Wellcome Library, London. Wellcome Images images@wellcome.ac.uk http://wellcomeimages.org Punan’s heads taken by Sea Dayaks Pagan Tribes of British North Borneo Hose & MacDougall Published: – Copyrighted work available under Creative Commons Attribution only licence CC BY 4.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
So what happened to the women when men left for war expeditions?

After helping the men to prepare for their war expeditions, the women then were left defenseless at their villages.

So what did they do? According to Henry Ling Roth in The Natives of Sarawak and British North Borneo, the women would continue their daily activities like usual. “As long the men are away their fires are lighted on the stones or small just as if they were at home.”

Additionally, the women carried out a couple of tasks symbolically to protect their men from afar. They spread mats and kept the fires up till late in the evening and lighted again before dawn. This was to ensure men during the war expeditions would not get cold.

He added, “The roofing of the house is opened before dawn, so that the men may not lie too long and fall into the enemies’ hands.”

Whether this symbolic gestures actually work for their men, we will never know. However, it is interesting to know how the women contributed without physically being there during war expeditions.

Preparing for war expeditions in Sarawak during the 19th century
Every year or two the Iban Dayaks hold a feast called Gawai Antu in honour of the departed spirits which they believe surround the heads which hang in their houses. In this manner they hope to keep in favour with the spirits and so have good fortune. Photo by Charles Hose. Credits: Creative Commons.

The inspiring story of MV Nam Hoi and its crew during WWII in Igan

If you’ve never heard of Igan, it is a small district located near the Batang Igan river in the central region of Sarawak.

The population is mostly made up of Melanau people, who are famous for their umai, a kind of ceviche, and sago paste called linut.

It may be a small and unassuming town, but it is the centre of one inspiring piece of World War II (WWII) history.

The story of MV Nam Hoi and its volunteer crew

In December 1941, the Sarawak government chartered the M.V Nam Hoi to transport paddy and food rations from Sibu to Mukah.

Unfortunately, this was during the beginning of WWII. So when the vessel passed Igan, it happened during the Japanese bombing.

According to a story published on Jan 2, 1948 in The Sarawak Gazette, the crew decided to abandon ship and go ashore, refusing to continue with the voyage.

The story stated, “As the cargo was urgently needed in Mukah and it was dangerous for the vessel to remain at Igan which was on the daily route flown over by Japanese aircraft, the then District Officer, Mukah, telegraphed to the Resident asking for permission to take a volunteer crew head quarters to obtain possession of the vessel and complete the voyage.”

The resident agreed with the proposal but instructed the district officer to remain at his station.

So the district officer promptly put together a crew. They were Abang Mostapha (Captain), Haji Zahawi (First Mate), Tuto bin Tajudin (Second Mate), Albert Galli (Chief Engineer from Sarawak Electricity Supply Company), Taha bin Haji Mohamad (Second Engineer) and Jaya bin Haji Talip (Engineer).

Meanwhile the rest of the crew were ex-constable Salleh bin Abang Kut, ex-constable Bujang, Salim bin Mohamad and Beki bin Haji Talip.

Heading to Igan from Mukah

Within half an hour after being summoned, the volunteer crew set out on bicycles from Mukah to Igan.

The report pointed out, “They travelled all night which was in itself a praiseworthy effort considering the age of some of the members.”

Here comes the frustrating part of the story; when they arrived at Igan, the original crew refused to board the vessel to show the volunteers how the engine worked, out of fear of the possibility of being targetted during the Japanese bombings.

So the volunteer crew took things into their own hands. There was no other way than pushing random buttons as long as the engine started and the vessel got moving.

“Not one of the volunteers had any experience of a marine diesel but by pulling and twisting every knob she was eventually started.

“The hook was pulled up, Captain Mostapha rang down slow ahead and the Nam Hoi went full astern. Chief Engineer Galli could not remember which knob he had twiddled to get the ship moving and for two long tanjungs (capes) the Nam Hoi careered astern with the skipper playing a fanfare on the telegraph,” the report stated.

In the middle of the journey, the vessel was stopped and the engineers stepped in to check on the engines.

The chief engineer reportedly had the help of a bottle of whiskey to refresh himself while doing his job.

After awhile looking at how the ship was seemingly going in the right direction, the crew continued with their journey to Mukah.

Meanwhile, the first mate, Haji Zahawi who was also an imam, prayed loudly and unceasingly along the journey.

The inspiring story of MV Nam Hoi and its crew during WWII in Igan
Chief Engineer Galli could not remember which knob he had twiddled to get the ship moving. Credits: Pixabay.
Nam Hoi arrives in Mukah

The vessel arrived and was anchored safely in Mukah in the evening on the same day they started their journey from Igan.

Its arrival was in the nick of time because this was just about the time the Japanese planes few over Mukah.

Whether it was the whiskey or the imam’s prayers, one thing is for sure: MV Nam Hoi’s journey from Igan to Mukah would not have been possible without the courage and the willingness of its volunteer crew to carry their jobs.

Even when the original crew refused to board the vessel again simply to show them how to run it, they refused to give up.

In 1948, the then governor His Excellency Charles Arden Clarke sent a letter to every member of the volunteer crew in 1948 to show his appreciation and to acknowledge their bravery.

5 ways Sarawakians used to measure distance in the olden days

“One of the most difficult things in this world is to find out from a Dyak the distance between one place and another.”

This was what Charles Grant wrote in A Tour amongst the Dyaks of Sarawak Borneo in 1858 (1864).

According to Grant, most Dayaks would answer “Takut kabula” which means “I’m afraid of speaking untruly.”

He described their answers sometimes either “jau (far), ja-u(very far) or jau-u-u (awfully far) from the place”.

Without any knowledge of feet, meters or kilometers, how did they tell how far is a place?

Here are five ways Sarawakians used to measure distance in the olden days:
1.How many tobacco cigarettes away?

For some communities in Sarawak, one of the most common answers when asking the distance between two places was based on how many tobacco cigarettes one would smoke along the way.

Traditional tobacco cigarettes (made dried tobacco wrapped with dried banana leaves) were commonly smoked when travelling to the farm or another longhouse.

Besides to kill time, smoking these tobacco cigarettes also worked as natural insect repellent.

The only problem with this measurement was everybody smoked cigarettes at different rates. Furthermore, their cigarettes were never in the same size.

2.How many cooking pots of rice away?

According to Grant, another traditional way to tell a distance by the amount of pots to cook rice.

He wrote, “If the road is far, you will be told it is very far; if short, very short and so on. Their wars of reckoning, too are original. You are told you have gone one, or so many divisions, and have so many more to go; or that you will have to eat rice so many times between such and such a place.

“You are occasionally told you are so many cooking (or boiling) of rice from your destination (a cooking of rice maybe reckoned thirty or forty minutes).”

3.The sun position in the sky

Anglican bishop William Chalmers in 1859 pointed out as the Dayaks had no notion of dividing time into hours, their methods of reckoning distances were rather original.

One of the ways was, “To point to certain place in the heavens and say they can reach their destination when the sun is there.”

5 ways Sarawakians used to measure distance in the olden days
What do you think how far is that island according to the olden day’s measurement?
4.Is your hair dry yet?

Henry Ling Roth recorded in The Native of Sarawak and British North Borneo (1896) that the Sea Dayaks had a unique way to tell the distance.

“Short distances are described by arriving at such a place before the hair has had time to dry,” he stated.

5.Half a day or a day?

Here was and still is a common way to measure distance. It was either you would arrive at that place in a half a day or a day’s journey.

Besides these, do you know other ways Sarawakians used to measure distance back in the days? Leave them in the comment box.

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