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Top 3 exciting things to do at Gunung Gading National Park, Lundu?

Gunung Gading National Park 3
Welcome to Gunung Gading National Park!

Gunung Gading National Park is one of the most accessible places in Sarawak to view Rafflesia blooms.

Gazetted in 1983, the national park is a conservation area for this majestic plant.

The park is located about 80km from Sarawak’s state capital Kuching, near the small town of Lundu.

It is known for its stunning biodiversity and is a popular destination for nature lovers, hikers, and those interested in exploring tropical rainforests.

The park is around 4,300 hectares in size and offers a variety of ecosystems, from tropical lowland forests to montane regions.

The name Gunung Gading was believed to come from a tree called engkabang gading (Shorea hemsleyana).

However, according to the book National Parks of Sarawak by Hans Hazebroek and Abang Kashim Abang Morshidi, it’s name comes from a legend behind this mountain.

There were three celestial princesses from Gunung Roban in Java, Indonesia.

The princesses were guardians of Gunung Gading Puteri Gading, Gunung Perigi Puteri Sri Giar and Gunung Sebuluh Puteri Sri Geneng.

They loved to bathe and play in the seventh waterfall. They also planted flowers called Sri Gading on the mountain.

It is said that if you manage to find these flowers, you will be showered with good luck.

Gunung Gading National Park 4
What should you do on Gunung Gading?

Here are the three things you can do at Gunung Gading National Park (on top of looking for a good luck charm):

1.See Rafflesia

Gunung Gading National Park 2
Come and visit Rafflesia in Gunung Gading.

Regardless if you are a celestial princess or not, the only flower that matters in this national park is the Rafflesia.

Gunung Gading National Park is home to the endemic Rafflesia tuan-mudae, named after Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak.

This rare and huge flower is a highlight of the park. Known for its strong odor (often described as rotting flesh), it blooms for only a few days a year, making it a unique and sought-after sight. The park is one of the few places where you can find this remarkable flower.

Since the Rafflesia is a rare flower with a short flowering period, plan your visit carefully.

You can check in with the park headquarters at 082-7355714 on whether the flower is in bloom.

2.Climb to the top of Gunung Gading National Park

Gunung Gading National Park 8
The sound of a splashing waterfall can be heard along the trail to the summit.

Visitors can opt to climb to the top of Gunung Gading although there is no picturesque view awaiting you.

It has a a sign telling you something to the effect of “this is it, you’ve reached the top”.

The climb will take up to eight hours for a round trip so plan to start hiking early in the morning.

Do not forget to pack a lot of water, some food for an energy boost and a bag to carry your trash back with.

3.Visit the waterfalls

Gunung Gading National Park 6
The two-tiered Waterfall no 7 awaits you.

Follow the path of the celestial princesses and take a dip in any of the waterfalls.

The waterfall trails pass seven waterfalls but not all of the waterfalls are accessible.

The easiest trail is to Waterfall 1 while the two-tiered Waterfall 7 is the furthest to reach (about 1 hour depending on your stamina).

Every waterfall is a perfect bathing pool offered by Mother Nature for us to relax in so don’t leave any trash behind.

Last but not least, do wear long pants or leech socks as, based on my personal experience, those creepy-crawlies can pop up unexpectedly. So better be safe than sorry!

Gunung Gading National Park
Doesn’t this look so relaxing?

Gerard MacBryan, the most eccentric Sarawak officer exposed

Gerard MacBryan
Gerard MacBryan after his pilgrimage to Mecca.

“There came out to Sarawak at about this time a young man who was destined to play a sinister part in the history of the Sarawak Raj.”

This is how Sylvia Brett, the last Ranee of Sarawak introduces Gerald MacBryan in her book Queen of the Headhunters.

The Brooke family governed Sarawak between 1841 and 1946. James Brooke ruled the area until his death in 1868. He was succeeded by his nephew Charles who in turn was succeeded by his son Vyner.

During the Brooke family’s reign, many British citizens were employed into Sarawak service.

One of them being Gerard MacBryan or his full name was Truman Magill MacBryan, whom some historians believed was Sarawak’s equivalent to Rasputin.

The story of Gerard MacBryan

Gerard MacBryan was the son of a doctor who owned a mental hospital near Bath, England. He was described as tall, graceful with bright eyes and ivory-white skin.

MacBryan was only 18 when he entered the Sarawak government service in 1920. Soon after MacBryan arrived in Sarawak for duty, however, rumours already began spreading about him.

According to Sylvia, “MacBryan, it was said, suffered from hallucinations that his bungalow was being attacked, and would start shooting wildly into the darkness.”

Sylvia was not the only one who recorded MacBryan’s lunacy.

Robert Payne in The White Rajahs of Sarawak stated that most of the white Sarawak officers during the Brooke reign were too busy to indulge in complicated pleasures.

“With Malays, Dyaks, Chinese, and Indians, all around them, and with a growing country to serve, they were kept occupied. Only one went mad, but he had a streak of madness in him long before he came to Sarawak.”

And of course the madman Payne referred to in his book was none other than MacBryan himself who was reported to have had a series of manic episodes.

Once in South Africa, he appeared naked at a party, and afterwards explained that he thought he was invisible. Sometimes he thought he was a dog, and would walk on all fours, barking at the top of his voice.

MacBryan also allegedly stole from shops and alms-boxes.

Gerard MacBryan and Vyner Brooke

Even so, with all the manic incidents, how MacBryan would continue to stay and serve in Sarawak was due to his relationship with the third white rajah, Vyner Brooke.

Of his first impression, Vyner told his wife, Sylvia that he thought MacBryan was “wonderful, but nuts”.

Putting aside the nuisance he presented to some of his fellow white officers, the Malay and Dayak people reportedly loved him.

MacBryan spoke fluent Malay and had even delivered a speech in Kenyah.

He also proved himself helpful by negotiating the peace-making ceremony between the Ibans and Kayans in Kapit in 1924.

Vyner nicknamed MacBryan the “Baron”, after Baron von Munchausen, the German cavalry officer who had been renowned for his fantastic and irresponsible antics.

According to historian Dr Bob Reece in The Name of Brooke, MacBryan was a man of considerable talent with an intelligence superior to that of most officers.

Reece wrote,

“More importantly, he was a skillful politician and a shrewd judge of character. He seems to have had the knack of knowing how the Rajah’s mind worked and of suggesting courses of action which would fulfil his wishes. In other words, MacBryan was capable of doing the Rajah’s thinking and decision making for him, something Vyner Brooke found very useful sometimes.”

Gerard MacBryan interfering with the succession to the throne

Vyner and Sylvia had no sons, so MacBryan began courting their young daughters. He even openly talked about becoming the next Rajah.

At one point Vyner had enough of the ‘Baron’ and fired him. MacBryan was subsequently banished from Sarawak for about four years.

During this time, he married a Malay lady, announced his conversion to Islam and even made a pilgrimage to Mecca. He had planned to make himself the Muslim ruler of the east.

MacBryan did not manage to do that but he did successfully make a return to Sarawak. By 1927, he was put in charge of Sarawak Gazette and eventually became Vyner’s secretary again.

Despite his best efforts, however, MacBryan was unable to seduce his way to the White Rajah’s throne.

But some reports claimed that he made sure the next heir apparent, Vyner’s nephew Anthony, would not make it to the throne either.

Another popular opinion was that the last Ranee was trying to push her eldest daughter, Leonora or her grandson Simon MacKay, to succeed the throne.

At the time, it was believed that Sylvia was plotting with MacBryan.

But on July 8, 1940, Sylvia wrote a letter to her brother in-law Captain Bertram Willes Dayrell Brooke (Anthony’s father) claiming her innocence.

“I happen to know more about the MacBryan plot than anyone. It began with MacBryan making violent love to Didi (Elizabeth, Vyner’s second daughter). I don’t think that Didi was more than fourteen at the time. But as you know MacBryan was determined to get into the family somehow. The whole thing has really grown from the evil seeds in MacBryan’s brain.”

Gerard MacBryan’s role in Sarawak’s cession to the British

But MacBryan’s biggest role yet in influencing Sarawak’s history was when Vyner appointed him to negotiate the terms of cession between Sarawak and the British government.

Local historian Ho Ah Chon stated in Sarawak Historical Events 1941-1945 that:

“After the war, Vyner sent out his private secretary to induce the leading Kuching Datus to sign letters in which they agreed to support any moves Vyner might think fit to make ‘in the interest of Sarawak’.”

According to reports, the letter never mentioned cession .

The community leaders signed the letters, not knowing the truth till few days later.

“One of the Datus, Datu Patinggi Abdillah, was furious when he discovered that they had been tricked, and he returned the $12,000 (all those who signed were given a large sum)- saying it was a bribe.”

And that private secretary was MacBryan.

Sylvia also wrote,“I think it can safely be said that if there had been no Gerard MacBryan there would have been no cession of Sarawak at that time — July 1946.”

When Vyner and Sylvia returned to Sarawak in 1946 to say their final farewell, the Baron was not there with them.
Sylvia stated,

“He had sworn he would see Vyner through the difficult period of Cession. After all, it was he who set the machinery in motion; who had coerced and corrupted the Malay Datus into signing papers they did not understand. And then he had simply vanished, leaving Vyner to face the music alone, to withstand the disapproval of his brother, and the shocked fury of his nephew.”

However according to Reece, this claim might not be true.

Reece stated,

“There is no way of verifying later accusations that MacBryan used trickery and even force to obtain the necessary signatures. But it is clear that he deliberately misrepresented Bertram and Anthony as having agreed to the cession.”

Nonetheless, the information retained and reproduced in a Malaysian secondary school History textbook for Form 3 was that of Gerard T. MacBryan using trickery to gain signatures from Council Negri members.

The Brooke family ceded Sarawak to the British government as a crown colony on July, 1 1946.

Life after Sarawak for Gerard MacBryan

By late 1949, there were reports of him losing his sanity. He was arrested for stealing peaches from a fruit barrow in London eventhough he had more than £40 in his pocket.

At one point, he also carried with him everywhere a mysterious black box which he said could blow up the world.

He occasionally checked himself into a mental institution in London.

Towards the end of his life, he was living in a cheap hotel in Hong Kong until he died in 1953.

Vyner believed MacBryan hanged himself although Sylvia believed MacBryan starved himself to death.

In her final mention of Gerard MacBryan in her book, the former Ranee stated, “…although he had thousands of dollars in the bank, the ‘Baron’, with his charmed and twisted dreams of powers, looked down-and-out, filthy and in rags. I never dared ask Vyner what he thought about the downfall of his friend.”

Carlsberg unveils mesmeRICEsing packaging with 4 new iconic designs

Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah & Sarawak with mesmeRICEsing Art by our Local Artists

SHAH ALAM, 16 April 2025 – In Sabah and Sarawak, rice is more than just sustenance, it is the heart of the harvest festival, a symbol of life, gratitude and unity. It carries the legacy of generations, from the dedication of farmers to traditions passed down over time, forming an unbreakable bond between the land and its people.

Carlsberg’s latest Sabah and Sarawak artist-edition packaging brings this rich heritage to life, showcasing stunning rice art that celebrates cultural pride.

Carlsberg Smooth Draught will feature these intricate rice art designs on its cans and bottles throughout the year, while, back by popular demand, Carlsberg Danish Pilsner joins the collection for a limited time in April and May.

Back for the 5th consecutive year, the artist-edition packaging reinforces Carlsberg’s commitment to honouring local traditions through design and craftsmanship.

Carlsberg Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah Sarawak
Check out these four mesmeRICEsing designs.

Featuring four mesmeRICEsing designs “By locals, For locals”, Sabahan artist Nelson Lip and Sarawakian artist T. Bagak have meticulously designed these stunning creations, showcasing Borneo’s most symbolic icons.

Each variant features two distinct designs, one inspired by Sabah and the other Sarawak, inspiring local pride in every sip.

Carlsberg Smooth Draught’s packaging brings Borneo’s essence to life, with Sabah’s design depicting the awe-inspiring Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s tallest peak, while Sarawak’s design features the regal Hornbill perched above a longhouse, a revered symbol of cultural heritage and good luck.

Carlsberg Danish Pilsner, on the other hand, embraces the region’s rich heritage with Sabah’s design highlighting the gentle Orangutan and the mystical Rafflesia, some of the world’s rarest sights.

The other design celebrates Sarawak’s cultural traditions with hypnotic rhythms of the Sape and the welcoming warmth of the traditional longhouse.

“The essence of Gawai and Kaamatan is deeply tied to the harvest and rice. Carlsberg honours that heritage, embracing the unity, gratitude, and celebration at the heart of these festivals. We’re thrilled to once again ‘Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah & Sarawak’ with a stronger focus on local pride as we collaborate with two talented local artists, whose designs beautifully capture the spirit of Sabah and Sarawak, making every celebration #BestWithCarlsberg,” said Olga Pulyaeva, Marketing Director of Carlsberg Malaysia.

From 15 to 18 May 2025, at Farley Kuching, consumers can experience the vibrant fusion of traditional and modern celebration at the annual Carls Harvest Pesta.

This four-day celebration will feature the finest brews together with captivating live performances, traditional music and dance performances by local artists.

Attendees can indulge in Bornean delights and fusion cuisines while immersing themselves in interactive experiences from crafting rice art bracelets and rice resin art to mixology workshops at the CarlsBar, with free Tuak Bombs served every two hours to keep the celebrations going.

Adding to the excitement, early birds will receive a free can of Carlsberg to welcome them to the festival.

And that’s not all, consumers can also get their hands on the collectable MesmeRICEsing plates, one celebrating the iconic symbols of Sabah and the other highlighting the essence of Sarawak via in-store promotions, while stocks last, and stand a chance to win Apple 16 Pros, 11 inch iPad Air or Apple Watch Series 10.

Visit https://bestwithcarlsberg.my/harvest to learn more and follow @CarlsbergMY on Facebook and Instagram for more information and stay tuned for the upcoming Carlsberg’s special Harvest Song Music Video.

This is one celebration you don’t want to miss, so grab a can or bottle, raise a toast, and #RaikanKebanggaanSabahSarawak with Carlsberg! Remember to always #CelebrateResponsibly, if you drink, please don’t drive!

Mount Serapi: 5 reasons why you seriously need to climb this scenic mountain

Mount Serapi located at Kubah National Park is one of the two mountains that can be easily spotted from Kuching city.

Together with Mount Selang and Mount Sendok, they make the three summits of the Matang Range.

Famous among locals and foreigners alike, Kubah National Park offers jungle trails for trekkers and waterfalls to dip in.

It offers six trails for visitors to explore including a path leading up to the summit of Mount Serapi.

If you are looking to strike “climb a mountain” off your bucket list, Mount Serapi is a good place to start.

Mount Serapi
The view as far as the eyes can see from the top of Mount Serapi.

Even if you have no interest in hiking or are ‘allergic’ to nature, here are some reasons why you should consider climbing Mount Serapi at least once in your life:

1. It is accessible from Kuching!

Mount Serapi.
You can easily spot this communication tower resting on top of Mount Serapi from Kuching.

Kubah National Park is located 20 km from Kuching city, very accessible indeed.

Thanks to its distance, it is famous among day trippers. However, the park offers lodging too if you are planning to stay overnight.

Even if it is near Kuching, plan your ascent as early as you can. Then you can avoid the afternoon heat and take your time on your climb.

2. Your shoes won’t get muddy.

Mount Serapi
A tarred road leads all the way up to the summit.

The best part about climbing to the top of Mount Serapi is *drum roll please* there is a tarred road leading all the way up to the top!

So you can ditch wearing your expensive hiking footwear and even the affordable adidas kampung and take your usual running shoes.

Even so, it is crucial to invest in a pair of good shoes that fit perfectly.

A pair of loosely fitted shoes will hurt when you are descending from the summit; your feet will be sliding forwards and your toes repeatedly hitting the inner part of your shoes. And yes, I’m speaking from personal experience.

3. It only takes less than 4 hours to reach the top

It takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.
It’s a quick trek up, but has lots of rest stops along the way.

Depending on your stamina, it takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.

Some seasonal runners and trekkers can finish the round up trip even in five hours.

There are plenty of rest stops along the way, so take your time.

4. You can listen to the sound of nature

Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.
Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.

You can always enjoy the sounds of cicadas, frogs, birds and insects along your way to the top.

Or swing by at the frog pond and listen to the world’s most beautiful sound.

In 2014, nature recordist Marc Anderson won a competition sponsored by The Sound Agency with a recording he took at Kubah National Park’s frog pond.

The recording won the Most Beautiful Sound in the World.

If you are familiar with birds’ call, Kubah is also one of the best places in Kuching where you can hear them.

Among the birds highlighted by Sarawak Tourism Board found here in Kubah are Blue-banded Pitta, Red-naped Trogan, Rufous-backed Kingfisher and many more.

For visiting birders out there, remember to bring your binoculars.

5. Do it for the view!

Last but definitely not least, climb up to the summit of Mount Serapi for the view.

There is a viewing platform for climbers to enjoy the scenic view of Kuching, Mount Santubong and the coastline of Southwest Sarawak.

If you are good at geography, perhaps you can spot which mountain peaks mark the border with Indonesia.

Mount Santubong too offers great view from on top but the climb to the top is not for all.

Mount Gading in Lundu is another option for climbers. Sadly, there is no views from the top, only a sign saying you have reached the summit.

The best option for an achievable climb and comes with a great view near Kuching, choose Mount Serapi instead.

Read more:

3 easy trails in Bako National Park you must visit

Essential Packing Guide for Traveling to Sarawak

Sarawak is a lovely place to visit and we are not saying this because we are Sarawakians.

We have a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Gunung Mulu National Park.

Our capital city of Kuching is a member of UNESCO’s Creative CIties Network under the field of gastronomy.

Plus, the Niah Cave in Miri is the oldest recorded human settlement in East Malaysia dating back to more than 40,000 years ago.

If you are planning to visit, here is a comprehensive packing guide on what to bring when traveling to Sarawak:

1.Lightweight Clothing

Generally, bring clothing that is made of breathable fabrics.

Opt for cotton, linen, or moisture-wicking materials to stay cool and comfortable in the tropical weather.

If you are planning to swim, pack at least two swimsuits so you always have a dry one available.

You might want to bring a light jacket or something to stay warm in an air-conditioned place. Sarawak is generally hot and humid; why do you need to bring one?

Personally, we have seen a tourist pleading to a bus driver to increase the temperature when travelling from Bintulu to Kuching. She was freezing due to the air-conditioner. Beware, public transports such as ferry and bus can be unapologetically cold sometimes.

2.Sun Protection

Sunscreen is definitely a must in your packing list to Sarawak.

Bring a high SPF sunscreen, at least SPF 30.

Do not forget to reapply frequently especially if you’ll be in and out of water.

If you are not sure on what type of sunscreen to choose, watch this Youtube video from Doctorly.

It has all kinds of recommended sunscreens such as best mineral sunscreen, best chemical sunscreens and best Korean sunscreens.

For more protection against the sun, wear sunglasses and hat when you are out exploring.

3.Umbrella or raincoat

After preparing yourself against the sun, now you need to prepare against the rain.

A small, folded umbrella is good if you are sightseeing around town area.

However, a raincoat is a must if you are planning to do some jungle trekking.

Speaking of rain, you might want to bring a waterproof bag. There is no need to buy 5L bag, maybe just a small one to protect your important belongings such as phone and wallet.

4.Insect Repellent

Your visit to Sarawak incomplete without experiencing the beautiful nature of Borneo.

With that being said, pack up some mosquito repellent with DEET or another effective ingredient.

Take note that mosquito repellents from the local brands are mostly contained lemongrass.

While lemongrass was found not to be as effective compared to DEET, many people are too sensitive to this chemical to use it as a repellent.

Lemongrass on the other hand is a generally safe and natural ingredient. You just need to get used with the smell.

5.Practical Footwear

If you are keeping your packing list to the bare minimum, you only need two types of footwear.

First of all, a pair of sandals or flip-flops that are perfect for the beach and casual outings.

Secondly, a pair of comfortable walking Shoes for you to wear during sightseeing and even hiking.

Let say that for some reason that you do not have the right shoes to trek.

Just walk in the shoes of some locals (literally) and buy yourself a pair of adidas kampung.

They might not be that comfortable but they are cheap and practical.

6.Reusable Water Bottle

Stay hydrated in this hot and humid climate of Sarawak by bringing along a reusable water bottle.

Yes, drinking and mineral bottles are very affordable here.

But do your part in reducing plastic waste by bringing your own bottle.

If you are wondering on where you can refill your water for free especially at shopping malls, KajoMag has a trick for you.

Look for a nursing or baby room as it usually comes with a water dispenser.

7.Medications

If you are on prescribed medication, bring enough for the duration of your trip in Sarawak.

However, it doesn’t hurt to bring a little extra.

Some basic first aid kit including band-aids and antiseptic cream do not take that much space in your luggage, you might consider to bring some.

Just in case of diarrhea or dehydration from the tropical heat, throw in some hydration salts.

Do take note that OTC medicines are affordable in Malaysia. However in order to save your time from walking around looking for pharmacy or convenient store, might as well bring your own nonprescription medicine from home.

8.Travel Adapter and other electronics

To ensure that you can charge your devices while in Sarawak, do not forget to bring a travel adaptor.

For Malaysia, the associated plug type is G. It is the plug that has three rectangular pins in a triangular pattern.

Once your devices such as camera and phone are fully charged, now you are ready to capture the beautiful landscape of Sarawak.

9.Cash and card

Convert your cash into ringgits for small purchases.

As for credit card, Visa and Master are widely accepted by retailers and restaurants but not Amex.

Most cash registries will clearly state whether they can accept card or cash only.

When comes to paying using only phone, the most common app payment in Sarawak is S Pay Global.

If you are interested of using it, check out the terms and conditions here.

10.Toiletries and personal hygiene products

It is best to bring your own travel-sized toiletries with brands of your preference. This is because you might not find your usual brands of personal hygiene products.

Ladies, Malaysian women generally use menstrual pads instead of tampons. Hence, finding tampon here might not as easy as looking menstrual pads.

pexels timur weber 9186183 1
Photo by Timur Weber

Overall, Sarawak is a pretty chill and relax place for foreigners to visit.

Even if you are a light packer, you can easily buy things that you need in the local stores.

By packing thoughtfully and preparing well for your trip, you’ll be well-equipped to enjoy every moment of your adventure in Sarawak.

In the end of the day, you just need to let the laid-back vibes of Sarawak captivate you.

Enjoy your trip!

John Beville Archer, the last Chief Secretary of Sarawak of Brooke-era

“As I stood there in the blinding sunlight memories of the Rajahs of Sarawak, of days of festivity, of new awakening, of stirring scenes, flitted through my mind. The timid young gawk of a cadet, who had landed so hopefully thirty-five years ago, who had wandered all over the country and done so many things in so many places and with such a willing heart, had now finished. As the drums rolled and the troops presented arms, I stood there in my disgraceful suit, hiding my battered old sun helmet down my side wondering if I would ever make it. Just as I was leaving my house I had sent a telegram to the Rajah. I said:

‘In a few minutes I shall hand over your State to His Majesty’s representative with full honours and ceremony. I have impressed upon all that the best way of showing their loyalty to you is to support the new government fully and work for the rehabilitation of the State. As your last Officer Administering the Government I wish your Highness and Her Highness the Ranee all happiness in your position.’

This was what John Beville Archer wrote in his autobiography ‘Glimpses of Sarawak between 1912 and 1946’ (1997) which was published posthumously.

In this particular part, he narrated what happened on July 1, 1946 when Sarawak was officially declared as a British crown colony.

The book was compiled and edited by Vernon L. Porritt who is known for his other works such as The Rise and Fall of Communism in Sarawak 1940-1990 and British Colonial Rule in Sarawak, 1946 and 1963.

Archer was born in 1893 and was recruited from the Channel Islands in the Sarawak Administrative Service by the second White Rajah Charles Brooke in 1912.

According to his obituary which was published in the Sarawak Gazette, Archer spent the first eight years of his service, apart from a brief interlude at Sadong (Serian), in the Third Division, mainly in the Coastal District.

“It was during these years that he learnt the Melanau language and formed the strong affection for this people which was noticeable in his later writings. His interest in the Sarawak Gazette, which he retained until the end of his life, dates from 1922 when he was Editor of the Gazette and Manager of the Printing Office in addition to his other duties,” the Sarawak Gazette reported in 1948.

Archer was first promoted to a Resident in 1930 and then the Chief Secretary and Chairman of the Committee of Administration in 1939.

He also contributed many interesting articles for the Sarawak Gazette under the pen name of Optimistic Fiddler or O.F.

John Beville Archer
John Beville Archer in 1927.

John Beville Archer and the 1941 constitution

The 1941 constitution of Sarawak is the first known written constitution during the White Rajahs reign.

The main objective was to approve and fulfill the promise by the third Rajah, Vyner Brooke which was to give self-governance of Sarawak to the locals.

Kenelm Hubert Digby who served as the legal advisor to the government played a major role in the writing of the constitution.

As one read through Digby’s memoir, he pulled no punches in criticising Archer. He accused the senior Brooke officer of having ‘a somewhat feudal outlook’.

Digby stated, “He had joined the service in 1912, at the age of 19, and he had loyally served two Rajahs. He would have preferred to continue under such conditions. He distrusted these new-fangled, democratic ideas, and he had somehow got it into his head that the Committee of Administration was forcing the constitution on the Rajah against the will of the latter. He rather prided himself on his diplomatic skill, and in April and May 1941, he was appearing to co-operate in the deliberations of the Committee of Administration on the one hand, while communicating his private opinions secretly to the Rajah on the other.”

The Committee of Administration was a body that governed the country in the Rajah’s absence.

As for Archer, he did not elaborate much on his opinion about the constitution in his memoir.

He pointed out that the constitution was one of the big events that marked an entire change in the administration of Sarawak.

As a true Brooke loyalist, Archer only expressed that it was the Rajah desired to mark the centenary of Brooke rule by granting a constitution.

In the end, Archer was forced to retire in May 1941 ‘over trying to serve both the Rajah’s and the Committee of Administration’s interests’.

After his retirement, he remained in Sarawak as an Information Officer of Sarawak, the editor of the Sarawak Gazette as well as a Special Policeman.

John Beville Archer as an internee at Batu Lintang Camp

When the Japanese invaded Sarawak, Archer was among those interned by the Japanese.

In his book, Archer did not fail to share his experience as an internee at Batu Lintang Camp.

A talented storyteller; one of the stories he shared is about the pet goat the internees kept at the camp.

“In stories of prisons there are invariably the pets which the prisoners keep out of their scanty fare but the only pet we ever had was a goat. We called it Eustace. Why, I do not know considering it was obviously feminine and later produced a kid. However, although like most goats it could live on the ‘smell of a dirty rag’, there just was not any food to give it so the time came when it was decided that she should go into the cooking pot. This caused quite a stir. Poster artists (we had several) opened a picture campaign. One that touched our hearts was a portrait of Eustace looking sadly at us over the inscription ‘BE KIND AND LET ME LIVE. I HAVE DONE NOTHING WRONG.’ A petition signed by many influential internees was presented to the committee. A reprieve was allowed but the cooks were not beaten. In a fortnight after several days of extremely lean rations, they opened up a fresh attack. This time all our sob stuff was of no avail – Eustace went into the pot.”

At one point, Archer was taken in for questioning by the Kempeitai for four days.

He was imprisoned and spent most of his mornings being interviewed by the secret police.

Describing his prison, Archer wrote, “It was a row of small semi-dark cells opening on to a backyard. The whole of the front of each cell was barred like a beast’s cage in a menagerie, except that the door was like that of a dog kennel. You had to bend double to get inside, which gave the gaolers a heaven-sent opportunity of kicking you hard on the behind every time you did so.”

Thankfully, he survived his ordeal with the Kempeitai.

John Beville Archer and the hoisting of the flag

Perhaps the most popular photograph of Archer is the image of him hoisting up the Sarawak flag in the civilian compound of the Batu Lintang Camp taken on Sept 12, 1945 after Sarawak was liberated by the Allied Forces.

According to his autobiography, the photo was a photo op.

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John Beville Archer hoisting up the Sarawak flag at Batu Lintang Camp. Copyright expired – public domain

“On the 9th we were told by dropped leaflets that unless negotiations broke down the Allied forces would arrive on the 11th. On that morning rumours came in that the Allied sips were at the mouth of the river and that the Japanese Commander had gone down to sign capitulation. The hours dragged on. At three o’clock I went along to the wire at the back of the soldiers’ camp to receive a Sarawak flag which some Chinese friend had promised to bring.

“That evening we procured a long bamboo pole and hoisted the Sarawak flag in our Camp. The next morning the official photographers arrived and I had the honour of hoisting the flag officially.”

After the war ended, Archer was first given a job at the Sarawak Museum office.

He shared in his memoir, “One of my duties was trying to collect what I could of the Rajah’s property. Strangely enough, the Japanese had done no damage to the Astana, and its contents were almost intact but scattered.”

Apart from that, he found the museum ‘lost very little’, the chief secretary’s office ‘became a gaol with a pig-sty outside’, the Anglican Cathedral ‘was a store’, a Catholic School was a Courthouse and the Sarawak Club bowling alley was turned into a shrine.

John Beville Archer and Sarawak cession to the British

On Nov 1, 1945, Archer was appointed the Political Adviser to the British Military Administration in Sarawak.

Few months later in early 1946, Vyner announced his intention to cede Sarawak to Britain.

Looking back at history on how Sarawak was ceded to Britain, the whole process was a practically a mess.

Historian Steven Runciman in his book The White Rajah: A History of Sarawak from 1841 to 1946 opined that the cession ‘had been hurriedly and clumsily handled’.

He added, “It is a story from which few of the principal characters emerge with enhanced credit. Sarawak was to suffer for it.”

The motion was unpopular among the locals who saw the cession as a violation of a provision in the 1941 constitution which stipulated that the Rajah would grant the right of self-rule to Sarawak.

The British government sent two Members of Parliament to Sarawak to enquire whether the people agreed to the cession.

They reportedly found that there was enough support for the cession to be debated in the Council Negri.

John Beville Archer and Cession Debate

Presided by Archer, the meeting took place on May 16 and 17, 1946 with 34 members attended the debate on the second reading and 35 on the third reading.

According to later accounts, there were no speeches translated for the benefit of the 26 non-European members who attended the meeting.

Christopher Dawson who was sent out to Sarawak by the Colonial Officer to supervise the legitimization of the cession said Archer appeared to be drunk during the debate.

Later, many accused him of making no attempt to maintain impartiality as a presiding officer of a legislative body.

Looking back at his official winding up speech, it is understandable where these accusations came from.

“Having heard all the references made to the cession, I hope you all here realise that is not a rich country. There has been talk about war debts and if this question is broached then we have to pay our share of the war. I think we all agree on that point. We cannot get everything free. I am sorry to say that we cannot carry on with our independence in Sarawak. You can look at it from any point you like. We have our revenue here which shows that it is considerably less than it was before the war, and we probably will have even less later, and it is up to us at this moment to come together with the rest of the countries into some sort amalgamation otherwise we are sunk. I want you to remember that we are servants of the Rajah and I am a servant myself. I have been a servant of His Highness the Rakah and also His Highness the Tuan Muda, but there comes a time when we cannot be alone. The Rajah has not done this thing on his own. He has had the best advice and has consulted the highest authority in London, the Secretary of State for the Colonies. There are no snags behind it. We cannot afford to be on own. Ask The Treasurer about it. We have set aside a certain amount of money for agriculture in order to increase our food supply, otherwise we will starve. There seems to be a sort of feeling here, I am sorry, that it is a ramp. The British Government is not bad. I can assure you that we will get a fair and absolutely good deal. I do not know how long I will be here but you will be here anyway. You have got to vote on it. I can see the feeling of the house is rather tense now. Please understand that there is no ramp. There is no idea of suborning about the British Government. I can assure you that. I am not lying about it.”

The final vote of the council was 19 to 16 in favour of cession. A difference of only three votes that changed Sarawak history forever.

When the Rajah left Sarawak for the last time on May 21, 1946, Archer was appointed as the Officer Administering the Government.

With this post, he was entrusted with the job of handing the country over to the British.

On Cession Day July 1, 1946, Archer relinquished all his official posts.

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Vyner (sitting left) signing the Instrument of cession at the Astana with Archer standing at his left hand side.

John Beville Archer, “It has been a labour of love”

Regardless of his view which was clearly unpopular among the anti-cession movement members, no one could deny Archer’s loyalty to Sarawak and especially to the people of this land.

According to his autobiography, one of Archer distinctive characteristic was his ‘debilitating stutter’ when he was speaking in English.

Curiously, he did not stutter at all when speaking in local languages such as Malay and Iban.

In his reply to an Address of Appreciation from the Supreme Council on the occasion of his retirement, Archer said,

“You all know, I think, how sad I feel at leaving a Service of which I was proud to be a member for so long. I was the last European active member of His Highness the late Rajah’s staff, and I served His present Highness throughout the whole of his reign. It may be considered trite, but I can truthfully say that it has been a labour of love…”

On July 17, 1948, Archer’s nephew Owen Wright found him in his bedroom with a gunshot wound on the forehead.

He was pronounced dead a few hours later at Sarawak General Hospital. According to the official inquest, he was suffering from depression as well as alcoholism.

Reflecting on Anthony Abell’s 1959 Chinese New Year Message: A Historical Perspective

Sir Anthony Abell was a British colonial officer who served as the Governor of Sarawak. He joined the Colonial Administrative Service back in 1929 and was posted to Nigeria. Then in 1950, Abell was offered the governorship of Sarawak where he was concurrently High Commissioner to Brunei.

He was originally appointed for a three-year term only but his term was extended.

In the end, Abell worked in Sarawak from Apr 4, 1950 till Nov 15, 1959.

When the formation of the Malaysian federation was still in discussion, Abell returned to be a member of the Cobbold Commission.

Here is a little random, unknown fact about the former governor; he was not exactly a foodie.

Peter Mooney, the former Crown Counsel of Sarawak once wrote in his autobiography, “The Governor, Sir Anthony Abell, was a bachelor who had spent his previous service in Africa. He had no great interest in food and the lunches and dinners he gave were adequate but undistinguished. Simple Malay food, clearly chosen as well as prepared by the staff, was served at his private lunches and dinners.”

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In 1959, Abell delivered a Chinese New Year Message which was published in The Sarawak Gazette. Here are some key points of his message:

“May I start this New Year message by wishing all of you peace and prosperity and happiness in the year ahead. This year I am spending Chinese New Year in Sibu where I will be visiting many friends of long standing. I would however like to send a special message to all my kind friends in Kuching who in the normal course of events I would today visit in their homes to meet their families on this great Chinese family occasion.”

The tranquility of Sarawak

“This will be the last Chinese New Year I shall spend among you as Governor. The pleasure I always derive from your unvarying hospitality and kindness is therefore on the occasion touched with sadness. You and I have spent nine peaceful and very happy years together during which time Sarawak was made great material progress. These years have been unmarred by any form of strife and our ancient tradition of tranquility and concord have been maintained and I hope strengthened. I am very thankful for this and I know you and all the other people in Sarawak are proud of our record too.

“It is customary to count our blessing at a season of happiness and goodwill like this because they provide the basis of our confidence in the future but it is also wise at the New Year to do little stocktaking as well and see how we can face better the problems of the coming year.”

The Chinese Contribution

“It is true that 1958 was not a year of great commercial prosperity. By comparison with my early years in Sarawak it was rather lean. This is due to circumstances over which we have little control and we can but hope that the prices of our major exports will hereafter improve. You have in the past often experienced similar fluctuations in our fortunes. For you Chinese have been in Sarawak for many generations and have made a very notable contribution to the prosperity we at present enjoy. One of the most outstanding of your characteristics is your resilience and adaptability. You came here as strangers long ago to a land which was very different to your own. You had little more than the clothes you wore.

You could not speak the language of this country, you knew nothing of its customs but your vigour and adaptability quickly made an essential part of the community and showed how best you could contribute to Sarawak’s progress.

It is interesting to recall that as long ago as 1850 the first sago refinery was opened in Kuching by Chinese. In 1878 the Rajah allocated land to certain Chinese merchants so that they could experiment with the cultivation of pepper. You found gold and exploited it in Bau. You brought rubber from Malaya and in very many ways demonstrated the commercial promise of this country.”

Chinese Qualities

“Your genius for taking the long view in trade and politics is equally required today. We cannot rely for always on the old methods of earning our living. But by exercising those great virtues of industry, initiative and perseverance which everybody so particularly admires in the Chinese. I know Sarawak will develop its economy with that vigourous pioneering spirit which has served us all so well in the past. I imagine such ideas and plans are among your New Year’s resolutions and I am sure your initiative and enterprise will be increasingly followed by your countrymen of other races.”

The Present and the Future

“You know well that when you are on to a good thing, you should stick to it and back it for all you are worth. Sarawak offers you security in a peaceful environment. In this country enterprise and opportunity can flourish, assisted and protected by an honest and an efficient administration. aWe live by the rule of law. There is freedom and justice assured for all without regard to class or race or creed. There are some who lag behind others in education of health, in wisdom or in riches and it is in all our interests to give a helping hand to the weak and the backward until a common high standard of living and education has been achieved. In this the Chinese can make the greatest contribution of all and therefore perhaps the greatest sacrifices. There can be no real happiness or harmony in our Sarawak family if there is a wide disparity of wealth or learning. Ignorance and poverty breed dangerous frustrations which can explode in savage retaliation.”

It has been more than 60 years since Abell delivered this Chinese New Year Message. His message to help those who are weak and stay united still resonates with Sarawakians today, don’t you agree?

Discover Sarawak’s Must-See Animals: A Guide for Wildlife Enthusiasts

For first time visitors discovering Sarawak, we are sure you have planned alot of things to do in your itinerary.

If you are a nature lover, your visit to the Land of Hornbills would not be complete without getting close to some animals.

Here are five must-see animals in Sarawak when you are in town:

1.Bornean orangutan

Semenggoh 7

Did you know that orangutans share approximately 97 per cent of their DNA with humans? They are practically our cousins.

There are two species of orangutan. The Bornean orangutan and Sumatran orangutan are two different species that diverged about 400,000 years ago.

The species that is endemic to the island of Borneo is Pongo pygmaeus or the Bornean orangutan.

One of the many differences between the Bornean orangutan and its Sumatran brother is that the former travels on the ground more than its Sumatran counterpart.

Many believe this is due to no large terrestrial predators that could attack an orangutan in Borneo.

However in Sumatra, this great ape sometimes come in contact with the Sumatran tiger.

Thanks to this trait, you can find these must see animals in Sarawak walking around the Semenggoh Nature Reserve if you are lucky.

Located 20km from Kuching city, Semenggoh Nature Reserve is home to semi-wild orangutans.

They spend most of their time in the forest (especially during the fruiting season) but some get back to the centre during feeding time.

So if you are making a visit, make sure you are there during their feeding times at 9am to 10am or 3pm to 4pm.

2.Proboscis monkey

Bako National Park 3

Another mammal that is endemic to Borneo is the proboscis monkey or long-nosed monkey (Nasalis larvatus).

It is known for its distinguished large nose. Proboscis monkeys live commonly in the mangrove forests and on the coastal areas.

Being accustomed to its natural habitats, these primates are known to swim across rivers and are even able to dive underwater.

While the largest remaining populations can be found in Kalimantan, there are a few found in Sarawak.

In Sarawak, one of the best places to see proboscis monkeys in the wild is Bako National Park.

There, you might catch these must -ee animals in Sarawak jumping from one tree to another or munching on fruits or leaves.

3.Saltwater crocodiles

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There are two species of crocodiles found in Sarawak: the saltwater crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) and the Malayan gharial (Tomistoma shlegii).

However, the one you really catch a glimpse of while in Sarawak is none other than what the Australians call the ‘saltie’.

It is the largest living reptile in the world.

If you are in Kuching, make a trip to Jong’s Crocodile Farm and Zoo in Siburan. It is one of seven crocodile farms in Malaysia that is registered under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).

Another place to see a saltwater crocodile is at Matang Wildlife Centre.

It is not a zoo but a centre dedicated to the rehabilitation of endangered animals before being released back into the wild.

The crocodiles sent to the centre are usually the ones caught intruding human settlements.

4.Hornbills

Julie Larsen Maher 1966 Wreathed Hornbill PPZ 02 02 17
Press Photos: (All Credit: Julie Larsen Maher © WCS)

Unless you are an avid bird watcher, you are considered one of the lucky ones if you are able to see hornbills fly freely in the sky.

Despite the name ‘Land of the Hornbills’, don’t expect these birds to be easily spotted unless you head over the the Piasau Nature Reserve in Miri.

There are eight species of hornbill found in Sarawak including White Crested Hornbill, Wrinkled Hornbill, Wreathed Hornbill, Black Hornbill, Bushy Crested Hornbill, Pied Hornbill, Helmeted Hornbill and Rhinoceros Hornbill.

The Rhinoceros Hornbill is not only the state bird of Sarawak but Malaysia’s national bird.

To see this iconic bird, Santubong National Park reportedly is the closest site to Kuching which offers a chance to see the Rhinoceros Hornbill.

5.Bornean bearded pig

Bornean Bearded Pigs

You might think, “Why would I want to see a pig when I come to Sarawak?” This is not any pig, this is the Borneo bearded pig.

Putting aside its name, the Bornean bearded pig (Sus barbatus) can also be found in Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula as well as some small islands in Sulu archipelago.

This pig can be recognised by its prominent beard which is more pronounced in males.

Make a trip to Bako National Park and you can find them around the park HQ or along the beach.

If you are staying over at the park, don’t be surprised if you hear snorting sounds in the middle of the nights. Sometimes, these pigs would hover around the accommodation area scavenging for food.

NKF Malaysia launches VoKAL at the 16th Annual Patient Forum

VoKAL serves as an official platform to elevate voices and transform policies for better kidney care in Malaysia

Kuching Sarawak, 1 October 2023 –  The National Kidney Foundation (“NKF”) of Malaysia held its 16th Annual Patient Forum 2023 in Kuching on October 1. Since 2003, the forum has been dedicated to serving kidney patients, their caregivers, and personnel from government, private, and NGO dialysis centres.

“I would like to express my gratitude to the National Kidney Foundation of Malaysia for their efforts in choosing Kuching as the location for their 16th forum. Their decision to subsidise registration costs is commendable, as it paves the way for greater public participation, allowing a wider audience to partake in this valuable event,” said Dato’ Sri Professor Dr. Sim Kui Hian, Deputy Premier, of Sarawak and Minister For Public Health, Housing And Local Government.

“NKF has been championing the fight against kidney-associated diseases through improving kidney care and preventive education. Recognising the need for support among kidney patients, this forum provides a convenient platform for patients to access essential information and advice,” said Dato’ Dr Zaki Morad Mohd Zaher, Chairman of NKF Malaysia.

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In conjunction with Patient Forum 2023, NKF also launched VoKAL (Voice-out Kidney Alliance), a nationwide kidney support group. VoKAL serves as an official platform for patients, caregivers, donors, service providers, and healthcare professionals to express their thoughts and concerns regarding kidney-related matters.

The primary purpose of VoKAL is to operate as an advocacy and advisory body, amplifying voices through support, advocacy campaigns, and activities that result in substantial contributions to kidney care in Malaysia. Its goal is to serve the community by providing a venue for formal recommendations to government and policymakers. These proposals address critical issues such as improving affordability and expanding access to quality treatments for kidney disease; protecting living donor rights, and removing barriers to organ donation; championing patient’s rights and empowerment; as well as supporting policy changes that can reduce the risks of kidney diseases.

NKF Malaysia invites all patients and interested parties to join VoKAL today and be the change of our kidney community needs. Your voice matters in shaping policies for better kidney care in Malaysia. Raise your voice at https://vokal.nkf.org.my/

Discover Kuching’s Culinary Delights: A Comprehensive A-Z Guide!

If you web-searched ‘ Food to eat in Kuching’ or ‘Kuching Food Guide’ or ‘Food to Try in Kuching’ or ‘What food is famous in Kuching’, honestly the results are pretty much the same.

Here at KajoMag, we want you to take your gastronomic adventure in Kuching (Unesco Creative City of Gastronomy since 2021!) to another level and not just go through the food list halfheartedly.

So how about enjoying the best food that Kuching has to offer alphabetically?

This is our pick of what to eat in Kuching from A to Z (a non-halal version):

A is for ABC

ABC, also known as ais kacang, is one of the many ways Kuchingites use to escape from the tropical heat.

It traditionally consists of shaved ice, red beans, cendol, grass jelly with evaporated milk or coconut milk drizzled on top.

If you have no idea where to have one, here are some of KajoMag’s suggestions.

B is for Beef Noodle

Kuching is known for its own version of beef noodle or mee sapi.

This noodle dish is served with been sprouts and beef slices on top as well as a bowl of hearty beef-based soup.

Some of the best places to have that satisfying bowl of beef noodle are Ah Mui Beef Noodle and Green Hill Corner Hawker Centre.

C is for (Salad) Chicken Rice

Do not be fooled by the name of this dish and expect a bowl full of greens.

Sarawak’s version of salad chicken rice is rice served with fried chicken.

The ‘salad’ part is the pink-coloured dressing made from mayonnaise mixed with tomato sauce.

The original version of this dish also came with baked beans.

Nowadays, the common version of salad chicken rice is with mayonnaise drizzled on top of the fried chicken and tomato sauce on the side.

The most popular place to have a plate of this is none other than KEN Salad Chicken Rice on Jalan Pending.

D is for Dabai

Dabai (Canarium odontophyllum) is an indigenous seasonal fruit that can only be found in Sarawak.

Many call it the Sarawak olive because they look similar.

If you are not in town during dabai season, no worries. You can still enjoy this fruit but in another form.

Nasi goreng dabai or dabai fried rice is one of the ways to enjoy the fruit all year round since it is made from salted dabai.

E is for Ensabi

Ensabi is a local mustard green which is known for its distinct bitter taste.

It is commonly prepared by stir-frying it with garlic and anchovies with salt to taste.

Sarawakians love the preserved version of it called kasam ensabi.

From a simple dish that the folks at the longhouse enjoy, now it has found its way to Kuching hawker stalls selling indigenous food.

One of these stall is as at Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak.

F is for Fried Midin

Midin

Another must-try vegetable is Sarawak is midin (Stenochlaena palustris).

It is a type of fern usually prepared by frying with garlic or shrimp paste (belacan).

Have it with rice and some protein such as chicken or pork, and voila! You will have the perfect plate for lunch.

G is for Gula Apong Ice-cream

Do not think about leaving Kuching without giving this a try.

Gula Apong Ice-cream is one of many must-try desserts when you are in town.

It is basically vanilla ice-cream topped with gula apong, a Sarawak palm sugar.

H is for Hot bowl of Terung Dayak Soup

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One of many ways to cook this local eggplant, Terong Dayak Asam Pedas

Terung Dayak or terung asam is a type of eggplant which is commonly found in Sarawakian cuisine.

They are usually cut into quarters and cooked with or without their seeds.

Most people do not remove the skin because it comes off easily when cooked.

One of the best ways to have it is to cook the eggplant in soup with pork or smoked fish.

I is for Ikan Terubuk Masin

Ikan terubuk masin is salted toli shad or Chinese herring.

It is one of highly prized fish among Sarawakians.

Nowadays it has become one of the must-buy food souvenirs among tourists who came to Sarawak.

Whether you have it here right on site in Sarawak or bring it back home to savour, this fish is one of many Sarawakian foods you must eat in Kuching.

J is for Jani

You cannot come to Sarawak and not pick some of the local languages. This largest state of Malaysia has more than 40 sub-ethnic group, each with its own distinct language.

Here at KajoMag, we want to teach you the Iban word ‘jani’ which means pig.

While the African Americans are known to have their cookouts featuring a menu of soul food, the Iban people have always love to gather among family and friends to barbeque and drinking some beers.

And a typical Iban or even Dayak barbecue is incomplete without jani or pork.

You can have the barbecued pork with rice or on its own, it doesn’t matter as long as you have a can of cold beer to wash it down.

No invites to a BBQ? No worries, you still can have it in Kuching.

The best places to have Dayak-style barbecued pork are at Rumah Asap Tabuan Dayak and Langkau Arau Rumah Asap Dayak.

While you are there, don’t forget to order some barbecued pork intestines.

K is for Kueh chap

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Kueh Chap

Speaking of pork intestines, here is a dish you must have in Kuching if you love having some pig’s innards.

Originating from Teochew cuisine, this dish consists of flat, broad rice sheets served in a soup made with dark soy sauce along with an assortment of pork cuts.

You can have early in the morning for breakfast or late at night for supper, it doesn’t matter.

Some of the places that served best kueh chap in town are Lao Ya Keng Food Court at Carpenter Street and 3rd Mile Wet Market Food Court.

L is for Laksa Sarawak

A Twitter user in 2012 once asked the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain to settle the score on who has the best laksa? Penang, Sarawak, Johore or Singapore?

Bourdain tweeted back only one word ‘Sarawak’ so sorry not sorry Penangites, Johoreans and Singaporeans.

A classic bowl of Laksa Sarawak is made of rice vermicelli served in spiced coconut broth with shredded chicken, shredded omelette, bean sprouts, prawns and coriander.

Some of the famous places in Kuching to have a taste of this dish are Choon Hui Cafe and Golden Arch Cafe.

M is for Mee Kolo

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Kolo mee at Woon Lam Cafe 1999.

Never ever ask a group of Kuchingites on where is the best Mee Kolo or Kolo Mee especially on social media platforms, you might accidentally trigger a debate as heated as the Taiwan parliament.

A kolo mee is springy egg noodles tossed in a sweet and savoury shallot, lard and vinegar dressing. Kuching’s most popular variant is the kolo mee merah (red). It uses oil from cooking char siu for that extra flavour as well as the red colouring.

Kuchingites are proud of their kolo mee and sometimes can be very defensive on which stall offers the best.

Most of the time, nostalgia is a powerful ingredient and Kuchingites tend to pick the best based on where they had it as a child.

For instance, someone who grew up in the 3rd Mile area would probably choose the stall on the first floor of 3rd Mile Wet Market to have the best kolo mee.

Regardless, there is one thing for sure. A first-time visitor to Kuching cannot leave the city without having this bowl of springy noodles.

N is for Nasi Aruk

For a dose of traditional Sarawakian Malay food in your gastronomic adventure in Kuching, do give nasi aruk a try.

Basic nasi aruk is made from rice, garlic, onion and anchovies.

What makes it different from the typical fried rice, nasi aruk does not use any oil to fry the rice and it requires a longer frying time resulting in a more smoky flavour in the rice.

O is for Oyster Pancake

Sometimes also known as oyster omellete, this dish is best to have while it is still hot and crispy.

It is one of the must-ordered dishes at any seafood or Chinese restaurants in Kuching.

But you can still have it as a snack on a late night out with friends.

The dish is round and crispy pancake with oysters cooked with it.

P is for Pansuh

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Manok pansuh (chicken cooked in bamboo)

Originally an Iban dish, pansuh is food that is cooked in bamboo.

Manok pansuh is chicken cooked in bamboo with ginger, lemongrass and tapioca leaves. The bamboo is then roasted over a fire.

A dish that was common in the longhouses where bamboo is easily found, has now made its way to food courts and restaurants.

Q is for Qing Mian or Green Noodle

Qing Mian is green noodle in Mandarin. This noodle dish is more widely known as spinach noodle in which the noodle gained its colour from.

The unique thing about this noodle dish is that every stall that sells it has its own recipe.

Some serve the noodle with pork and others with beef.

Chong Chon Green Noodle for instance is served with beef while the one at ABC Food Centre comes with minced pork.

R is for Roti Kompia

Roti means bread in Malay and this is the only bread on the list.

It is made with lard, salt and flour.

One can enjoy it just like that or with savoury minced pork as its filling; either way is equally delicious.

S is for Sarawak Three Layer Tea

Teh C Peng Special

Widely known as Teh C Peng Special, this is perhaps the most popular tea beverage in Sarawak.

The three layers part of the drink come from tea, evaporated milk and gula apong (palm sugar).

This is one of many prides of Kuching since it is originally invented right here in this city.

T is for Tomato Crispy Mee

Here is another unique Sarawak dish for you to try in Kuching.

It is deep-fried noodle served with sweet and sour tomato gravy with vegetables and sliced chicken or pork on top.

U is for Umai

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Umai made from raw fish, citrus fruit and bunga kecala

This popular traditional dish is a traditional food of the Melanau people.

It is consists of sliced raw fish mixed with onions, chillies, vinegar, salt and lime juice.

The dish is similar to Latin American ceviche and the Filipino kinilaw.

V is for Vermicelli Noodle With Shrimp Paste aka Belacan Beehoon

The list of ingredients that make up of this dish doesn’t make sense if you just go through it one by one.

But if you actually sit down and enjoy it, this dish does make sense.

Imagine rice vermicelli served in a dressing made from belacan (shrimp paste), chilli, tamarind and dried shrimp.

On top of it, there are cuttlefish, cucumber, bean sprouts and century egg.

W is for White Lady

Here is another source of pride of Kuchingites, the White Lady.

It is a dessert-like beverage made from evaporated milk, mango juice, longan and pineapple.

Some of the places where you can have a glass of the White Lady are Old Rex Cucur Udang Cafe and Swee Kang Ais Kacang.

X is for Xiu Mai Kuching style, Sio bee

Sio bee is Kuching’s interpretation of xiu mai or siu mai.

Unlike siu mai that contains both pork and shrimp, sio bee contains only pork inside.

Y is for Yong Tao Foo

Yong tao foo is a Hakka dish consisting of tofu filled with ground meat mixture.

The term ‘yong tao foo’ is also used to describe a clear soup dish with various forms of tofu stuffed ingredients such as bittergourd and ladies fingers.

The soup can include other ingredients such as fish balls, crab sticks and vegetables like bak choy and white Chinese cabbage.

Here in Kuching, a yong tao foo stall sometimes comes in a buffet-style where you can pick your ingredients to make up your soup.

Z is for Zao Cai Fen Gan and other Foochow foods

While Foochow food is more associated with Sibu town, you can find them here in Kuching city.

One of them is definitely Zao Cai Fen Gan or Zao Cai Hong Ngan. It is rice noodle cooked with preserved mustard greens.

The best part is you can have either dry or soup version of this dish. Both versions are equally delicious.

KajoMag’s recommended place to have this is at Mee Kwong Cafe.

Other Foochow dishes that can be found in Kuching are kampua, ding bian hu and mee sua.

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