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conservation

6 nature attractions near Kuching city for you to discover

So you are now in Kuching city and you are looking for an accessible, green place to go to.

Fret not, here are the six nature attractions near Kuching city you visit and enjoy a day out with Mother Nature.

1. Santubong National Park

Kuching city
Mount Santubong.

Santubong National Park is about 40 minutes drive from Kuching city.

Here visitors can climb to the top of Mount Santubong, take a dip in the waterfall or simply enjoy the rainforest.

There is no accommodation at the national park but there are handful of resorts and homestays nearby.

2. Kubah National Park and Matang Wildlife Centre

Come and explore Kubah Waterfall.
Come and explore Kubah Waterfall.

Kubah National Park is situated about 22km from Kuching city.

It is rich in floras and is a scientifically important site for palm trees.

One 1992 study by Katherine Pearce found that there are 86 species of palm trees in the area, 16 of them only found in Borneo.

You can choose to climb to the top of Mount Serapi or go for trekking in search of waterfall at Kubah.

Next to Kubah is Matang Wildlife Centre where endangered species such as orang utans are rehabilitated and released into the forest.

Beside saying ‘hi’ to the orang utans, visitors can also go for jungle trekking at one of the four trails here.

3. Sama Jaya Nature Reserve

Imagine New York’s Central Park but a thousand times smaller. (Okay, it’s only approximately eight times smaller. New York’s Central Park covers 341 hectares, while Sama Jaya Nature reserve spans 38.)

Much like Central Park, however, Sama Jaya is a small patch of forest in the middle of an urban area located at Stutong.

Just a 10-minute drive from Kuching City centre, the nature reserve is famous among joggers as it offers two jogging tracks at 870 metres and 1600 metres respectively.

As the jogging tracks wind through this urban jungle, do not be surprised if you spot some local wildlife.

According to Sarawak Forestry website, here you can find squirrels, shrew, fruit bars, frogs, lizards and monkeys.

Other perks this reserve offers is the Hiroshima-Sarawak Friendship Garden, forest biology museum and an ethno-botanical garden.

4. Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nature Reserves

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Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nature Reserves are located at Bau bazaar, just half an hour’s drive from Kuching city.

The two caves are located 8km from each other.

There are plankwalks available for visitors to explore the caves.

Keep your eyes open to spot various species of bats, squirrels and birds at these nature reserves.

5. Semenggoh Nature Reserve

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Here is another great place to visit the orang utan. It has a wildlife centre for the rehabilitation of rescued orang utan.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve is 20km away from Kuching.

The best time to visit Semenggoh is during feeding times. It usually takes place between 9 to 10am and between 3 to 3.30pm.

6. Bako National Park

Bako
Bako National Park, one of tourists favourite spot to visit while in Kuching city.

Sarawak’s oldest national park, Bako National Park requires a boat-ride to visit but is still accessible from Kuching city.

It is a nature lovers’ paradise where visitors can opt for bird watching, beach-strolling or jungle trekking.

It takes about 45 minutes from Kuching to Bako market. From there, it takes another 20-minute boat ride to reach the park.

Here you can spot proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaque monkeys and bearded pigs roaming around the park.

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Mount Serapi: 5 reasons why you seriously need to climb this scenic mountain

Mount Serapi located at Kubah National Park is one of the two mountains that can be easily spotted from Kuching city.

Together with Mount Selang and Mount Sendok, they make the three summits of the Matang Range.

Famous among locals and foreigners alike, Kubah National Park offers jungle trails for trekkers and waterfalls to dip in.

It offers six trails for visitors to explore including a path leading up to the summit of Mount Serapi.

If you are looking to strike “climb a mountain” off your bucket list, Mount Serapi is a good place to start.

Mount Serapi
The view as far as the eyes can see from the top of Mount Serapi.

Even if you have no interest in hiking or are ‘allergic’ to nature, here are some reasons why you should consider climbing Mount Serapi at least once in your life:

1. It is accessible from Kuching!

Mount Serapi.
You can easily spot this communication tower resting on top of Mount Serapi from Kuching.

Kubah National Park is located 20 km from Kuching city, very accessible indeed.

Thanks to its distance, it is famous among day trippers. However, the park offers lodging too if you are planning to stay overnight.

Even if it is near Kuching, plan your ascent as early as you can. Then you can avoid the afternoon heat and take your time on your climb.

2. Your shoes won’t get muddy.

Mount Serapi
A tarred road leads all the way up to the summit.

The best part about climbing to the top of Mount Serapi is *drum roll please* there is a tarred road leading all the way up to the top!

So you can ditch wearing your expensive hiking footwear and even the affordable adidas kampung and take your usual running shoes.

Even so, it is crucial to invest in a pair of good shoes that fit perfectly.

A pair of loosely fitted shoes will hurt when you are descending from the summit; your feet will be sliding forwards and your toes repeatedly hitting the inner part of your shoes. And yes, I’m speaking from personal experience.

3. It only takes less than 4 hours to reach the top

It takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.
It’s a quick trek up, but has lots of rest stops along the way.

Depending on your stamina, it takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.

Some seasonal runners and trekkers can finish the round up trip even in five hours.

There are plenty of rest stops along the way, so take your time.

4. You can listen to the sound of nature

Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.
Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.

You can always enjoy the sounds of cicadas, frogs, birds and insects along your way to the top.

Or swing by at the frog pond and listen to the world’s most beautiful sound.

In 2014, nature recordist Marc Anderson won a competition sponsored by The Sound Agency with a recording he took at Kubah National Park’s frog pond.

The recording won the Most Beautiful Sound in the World.

If you are familiar with birds’ call, Kubah is also one of the best places in Kuching where you can hear them.

Among the birds highlighted by Sarawak Tourism Board found here in Kubah are Blue-banded Pitta, Red-naped Trogan, Rufous-backed Kingfisher and many more.

For visiting birders out there, remember to bring your binoculars.

5. Do it for the view!

Last but definitely not least, climb up to the summit of Mount Serapi for the view.

There is a viewing platform for climbers to enjoy the scenic view of Kuching, Mount Santubong and the coastline of Southwest Sarawak.

If you are good at geography, perhaps you can spot which mountain peaks mark the border with Indonesia.

Mount Santubong too offers great view from on top but the climb to the top is not for all.

Mount Gading in Lundu is another option for climbers. Sadly, there is no views from the top, only a sign saying you have reached the summit.

The best option for an achievable climb and comes with a great view near Kuching, choose Mount Serapi instead.

Read more:

3 easy trails in Bako National Park you must visit

Rafflesia plant: 10 things you should know about this distinctive flower

Rafflesia, a flowering plant with no leaves and almost no stem, can easily be identified by its five leathery, speckled petals.

There are about 28 species of Rafflesia in the world, the most renowned being Rafflesia arnoldii.

Many visitors are willing to fly in just to see this plant in its natural habitat.

Here are ten things you need to know about this unique plant.

Rafflesia tuan-mudae found in Gunung Gading National Park.
Rafflesia tuan-mudae found in Gunung Gading National Park.
  1. The ‘largest flower in the world?’

One particular species, Rafflesia arnoldii, holds the record as the largest single flower of any flowering plant in terms of weight.

The largest measurement is 105 centimeters found at Palupah Nature Reserve, Sumatera. R. arnoldii and can weigh up to 11 kg.

  1. A parasitic plant

It lives as a parasite on several vines of the genus Tetrastigma which grow only in primary rainforests.

Almost like a fungi, an individual Rafflesia grows as thread-like strands of tissue completely embedded within its host cells in which nutrients and water are obtained.

  1. Is it a real plant?

It basically challenges traditional definitions of what a plant is.

This is because it lacks chlorophyll and is then unable to photosynthesise.

A study revealed that one species found in the Philippines, Rafflesia lagascae has no chloroplast genome, presumably because of its parasitic lifestyle.

This earned it the title of first land plant without a chloroplast genome, which was thought to be impossible before.

It also lacks any noticeable leaves, stems, or even roots; nonetheless it is still considered a vascular plant.

  1. Another corpse flower?

The unique plant has a piercing, repulsive smell, almost like rotting meat prompting many locals to call it the ‘corpse flower’.

The foul smell is to attract insects such as flies, which transport pollen from male to female flowers.

But another plant, titan arum (Amorphophallus titanium) has also taken the title as corpse flower or ‘bunga bangkai’ in Malay.

Like the Rafflesia, titan arums are also found in Indonesia and Malaysian Borneo.

Furthermore, its odour is described more like the smell of a rotting animal.

A view of the inside of a Rafflesia.
A view of the inside of the flower. 
  1. It takes a long time for it to bloom

Generally, the flowers can take up to ten months to develop from the first visible bud to its full bloom.

Once in full flower, the bloom may last no more than a few days.

  1. Only found in certain regions of the world

All of the species can only be found in South East Asia.

These areas included peninsular Malaysia, Sumatra, Java, southern Thailand, Borneo and southern Philippines.

  1. Some species can only be found in Borneo

Home to one of the oldest rainforests in the world, Borneo also has its own several endemic Rafflesia species.

These species include Rafflesia keithii, Rafflesia pricei, Rafflesia tuan-mudae and Rafflesia tengku-adlinii.

Found along the slopes of Mount Kinabalu, Rafflesia keithii is endemic to Sabah.

It was named after Henry George Keith, former Conservator of Forests in Sabah.

Another Sabah native is Rafflesia pricei which was named after an amateur botanist William Price. Price discovered this species on Mount Kinabalu in 1960.

Mount Kinabalu was not the only mountain which Rafflesia called home in Sabah.

Rafflesia tengku-adlinii was discovered on Mount Trus Madi in 1987. This species was named after Sabahan conservationist Datuk Dr Tengku D.Z. Adlin.

  1. It was believed first discovered by Louis Deschamps but named after somebody else

A French doctor and explorer, Louis Auguste Deschamps was believed to be the first foreigner to see the Rafflesia.

He collected specimens and found Rafflesia in 1797 on the island of Nusakambangan. While Deschamps was making his way home in 1798 with his collection, the ship was taken by the British when approaching the English Channel.

The British, with whom France was at war, confiscated all his notes and specimens. It was only until 1954 when his possessions were rediscovered in the Natural History Museum, London.

About 20 years after Deschamps made his discovery, British botanist Dr Joseph Arnold’s local guide found the flower in the Indonesian rainforest in Bengkulu in 1818.

Eventually, the flower was named after Sir Thomas Raffles, the leader of the expedition.

  1. An official flower

Being one of a kind, it is not a surprise that this unique plant has been picked as an official flower.

In Indonesia, locally called the ‘padma raksasa’, the Rafflesia arnoldii is one of the three national flowers with the other two being the white jasmine and moon orchid.

It is also the official flower for Sabah, Malaysia and Surat Thani Province, Thailand.

  1. Threats 

 All known species of this so-called corpse plant are threatened or endangered. Their habitats are highly localised making them even more vulnerable to extinction.

These threats included land clearing, logging and ethnobotanical collecting.

The flowers can take up to 10 months to develop from the first visible bud to its full bloom.
The flowers can take up to 10 months to develop from the first visible bud to its full bloom.

Guam Rail and other recent species recoveries you should know about

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According to an updated report of The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, conservation efforts have led to improvements in the status of ten species.

This includes the recovery of the Guam Rail, a bird previously listed as Extinct in the Wild.

Despite these improvements, the IUCN Red List now includes 30,178 species threatened with extinction.

The report also finds there is increasing evidence of the negative effects of climate change. There are now 112,432 species on the IUCN Red List.

“This IUCN Red List update offers a spark of hope in the midst of the biodiversity crisis,” said IUCN Acting Director General, Dr Grethel Aguilar.

“Though we have witnessed 73 genuine species declines, the stories behind the 10 genuine improvements prove that nature will recover if given half a chance. Climate change is adding to the multiple threats species face, and we need to act urgently and decisively to curb the crisis.”

So what are the conservation success stories

The latest IUCN Red List update reveals genuine improvements in the status of eight bird species and two freshwater fishes.

Captive breeding, combined with careful management of wild populations, has been key to these conservation successes.

Among these improvements is the flightless, fast-running Guam Rail (Hypotaenidia owstoni).

It is the second bird in history to recover after being declared Extinct in the Wild, after the California Condor (Gymnogyps californianus).

Once widespread on the Pacific island of Guam, its numbers declined after the Brown Tree Snake (Boiga irregularis) was accidentally introduced at the end of World War Two.

In 1987, the last wild Guam Rail was killed by this invasive predator.

Thanks to a 35-year captive breeding programme, the Guam Rail is now established on the neighbouring Cocos Island.

However, the bird is still classified as Critically Endangered – one step away from extinction.

Guam Rail © Greg Hume CC BY SA 3.0 1
Guam Rail at the Cincinnati Zoo.
© Greg Hume

Other species

In Mauritius, the Echo Parakeet (Psittacula eques) continues its recovery thanks to conservation efforts. This effort included a highly successful captive breeding programme.

There are now more than 750 Echo Parakeets in the wild. With this update the species has been reclassified as Vulnerable, following its improvement from Critically Endangered to Endangered in 2007.

Two freshwater fish species – the Australian Trout Cod (Maccullochella macquariensis) and Pedder Galaxias (Galaxias pedderensis) – have likewise improved, from Endangered to Vulnerable and Critically Endangered to Endangered respectively.

Decades of conservation action have focused on establishing additional subpopulations through reintroductions and wild-to-wild translocations.

Both species face threats from invasive species and habitat destruction and degradation.

Increasing evidence of the effects of climate change

Despite these successful conservation stories, climate change has contributed to the declines of species. Some of them are several freshwater fishes and the reef-dependent Shorttail Nurse Shark.

Assessments in this update show climate change affects species by, for example, altering habitats and increasing the strength and frequency of extreme weather events.

This Red List update reveals that 37 per cent of Australia’s freshwater fish species are threatened with extinction.

Of this number, at least 58% are directly impacted by climate change.
Fish are highly susceptible to extreme droughts caused by declining rainfall and increasing temperatures.

Climate change also compounds the threat from invasive alien species, which can move into new areas as water temperature and flow change.

Native to the Western Indian Ocean, the Shorttail Nurse Shark (Pseudoginglymostoma brevicaudatum) has declined by approximately 80% over 30 years.

Simultaneously affected by unmanaged fishing and climate change, it has moved from Vulnerable to Critically Endangered.

Living only in shallow waters where it has no refuge from fishing, the shark is losing its habitat due to coral reef degradation caused in part by ocean warming.

Climate change is also threatening Dominica’s national bird, the Imperial Parrot (Amazona imperialis).

While hurricanes naturally occur in the Caribbean, their increased frequency and intensity result in high bird mortality and habitat destruction, alongside devastating impacts on people.

The species declined from Endangered to Critically Endangered after Hurricane Maria in 2017, the strongest hurricane on record to have struck the island. There are now estimated to be fewer than 50 mature individuals left in the wild.

Eucalypts assessed worldwide

Rainbow Eucalyptus © Thomas Caldwell CC BY SA 2.0
Rainbow Eucalytpus (Maui Garden of Eden, Hawaii)
© Thomas Caldwell

All known eucalypt species worldwide have been assessed in this Red List update, revealing that almost 25 per cent are threatened with extinction.

Of the 826 eucalypts – comprising the Eucalyptus, Corymbia and Angophora species groups – 812 occur only in Australia.

As keystone species, they define the landscape of the entire Australian continent, and are culturally significant to its First Nations People.

Eucalypts including the Vulnerable Eucalyptus moluccana are the sole food source for the Koala (Phascolarctos cinereus), which has declined significantly due to loss of eucalypt habitat.

Elsewhere in the world eucalypts can be highly invasive, but in their native range in Australia they face threats from human use of land, especially agriculture and urbanisation.

This has resulted in population declines of at least 30% for 134 eucalypts, such as the Endangered Rose Mallee (Eucalyptus rhodantha), which has declined by more than 50%. Mining also threatens some restricted range species, such as the Critically Endangered Eucalyptus purpurata.

Critical habitat for conservation now remains in the areas between rivers and land, on roadside patches and in paddocks where lone trees often remain.

5 things you need to know about the black orchid

The black orchid (Coelogyne pandurata) is such a unique plant that it is the official mascot for East Kalimantan province.

Also known as anggrek hitam in the Indonesian language, this orchid can be found in all three countries on Borneo; Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei.

Unlike popular belief, it is not endemic to Borneo. It is also found in Sumatra, Peninsular Malaysia and the Philippines.

The orchid is an epiphyte found on large trees located usually near rivers.

Here are five things you need to know about the black orchid:
Black Orchid 2
Coelogyne pandurata
1.It is called black orchid but it is not entirely black

According to the book Orchids of Sarawak, stories of a mysterious black orchid from deepest Borneo has been told for years and people ask if such a plant really exists.

So you can only see the black coloured part of the flower for a short period of time because it blooms only five to six days.

“Although the flowers are predominantly a most striking lime-green, large areas of the lip are stained with a truly black pigment as though black ink had been splashed upon it.”

If you smell it closely, the bloom emits a honey-like fragrance.

2.It is first described by John Lindley way back in 1853

The flower might be rare to see, especially in bloom, but it is not new. English botanist John Lindley (1799-1865) was the first one to have described the black orchid, publishing about it in the Gardener’s Chronicle in 1853.

He wrote, “We are indebted for this striking species to Mr Loddiges, who informs us that it was imported from Borneo by Mr Low. The lip, although really oblong, yet in consequence of the manner in which the sides are bent down, has much the form of a violin.”

However, Lindley never commented about the black markings on the orchid.

3. Its alleged medicinal purposes

In some parts of rural Kalimantan, the black orchid is boiled and used as herbal medicines.

The flower is believed to have many medicinal purposes including for heartburn, diarrhea, stomach ulcers and even tuberculosis.

However, none of these have been scientifically proven.

Black Orchid
The mascot of East Kalimantan province.
4.The myth behind the black orchid

While some believed that it can be a cure for various diseases, it is also believed that the flower can be a curse.

Legend in Indonesia has it that anyone who is in possession of the black orchid or even attempts to culture it will obtain bad luck.

Perhaps the myth spread to prevent people from harvesting the flower and subsequently reducing its population in the wild.

5.Some of the environmental threats against the black orchid

Speaking of its population, according to World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Indonesia, some of the threats this orchid faces are forest burning and land clearing due to agriculture activities.

Since this plant is an epiphyte relying on large trees to grow, loss of jungle could immediately affect the population of black orchid.

Here in Sarawak, all orchids are listed as ‘protected plants’ under the Wildlife Protection Ordinance 1998.

According to the law: “Any person who collects, cultivates, cuts, trims, removes, burns, poisons, in any way injures, sells, offers for sale, imports, exports or is in possession of any protected plant or any recognizable part or derivative thereof, except under and in accordance with the terms and conditions of a licence issued under this Ordinance, shall be guilty of an offence: Penalty, imprisonment for one year and a fine of RM10,000.”

10 interesting facts about Indonesia’s Kapuas River

Borneo has often been referred to as the Amazon of Asia thanks to its high density biodiversity. So if Borneo is the Asian Amazon, the ‘Amazon river’ of this island is none other than the Kapuas river.

Here are 10 interesting facts you need to know about Kapuas River, Indonesia

1.It is the longest river in Indonesia

At 1,143 kilometers in length, it is the longest river of Indonesia and the island of Borneo.

It is also the world’s longest river. The delta of Kapuas river is at Pontianak, the capital of West Kalimantan Province.

Kapuas river
An early morning view of Kapuas river from Semitau.

2.Wait, there are two Kapuas riverS?

There are actually two Kapuas rivers flowing from the same mountain range. One Kapuas river flows west into the South China Sea. Meanwhile, the other Kapuas river flows to the south, merging with the Barito Sea and ends at Java Sea.

3. Kapuas river originates from the Muller mountain range

Both Kapuas rivers originate from the Muller Mountain Range, located south of the Indonesian-Malaysian border.

The mountain range was named after Major Georg Muller. He was a soldier and even fought for Napolean Bonaparte when France attacked Russia.

So how did a European army end up in the middle of Borneo in the 19th century?

Born in Mainz, Germany in 1790, Muller joined the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army in 1817.

He took part in the Dutch attack against the Sambas kingdom in 1818.

In 1825, he led an expedition to cross Borneo inland via Mahakam and Kapuas rivers. However, the expedition ended in tragedy when he and his party were killed by the local Dayak tribe.

4.There are two national parks on its river banks

Betung Kerihun and Danau Sentarum are the two national parks located at Kapuas river banks.

Together with Lanjak Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary in Malaysia, Betung Kerihun has been proposed as a World Heritage site.

Meanwhile, Danau Sentarum National Park lies in the upper Kapuas river tectonic basin some 700 kilometers from its delta.

5. It is an important source of water and mode of transport

If you spend an early morning in any town located next to the river, you can catch some of the local people doing their daily chores.

You can see young children in large groups before going to school while the women do their washing on the wooden jetties.

Although roads are available to connect most parts of West Kalimantan, the Kapuas river is still the major waterway connecting the centre of Borneo with its western coast.

6.The Kapuas river and its flora and fauna are any researchers’ dream subject

Many researchers believe there are still many new species to discover in Borneo, especially small creatures

The most recent fascinating species found in the river is the Kapuas mud snake back in 2005. German and American researchers discovered it accidentally when it was put in a dark bucket and changed colour 20 minutes later.

The snake has chameleon-like behaviour which allows it to change its epidermal colour spontaneously.

In addition to that, tropical rivers are unlike rivers in temperate zones. To this day, researchers are still gathering more information on hydrology and geomorphology of tropical river system.

7. It has a high density of fish species

There are about 300 fish species recorded in the river basin. The most iconic one is none other the super red arowana fish. It is only found in Kapuas river and is a famous species in the aquarium trade.

Sadly, the species is continuously decreasing because of wild poachers and low productive rates.

8. There are other remarkable species too

Apart from the super red arowana fish, there is one striking fish species found in Kapuas river.

Only officially described in 2008, the eight-banded barb (Eirmotus insignis) is a small zebra-striped fish which measures about 3.6cm in length.

It was found between the towns of Sanggau and Putussibau, among overhanging tree roots and aquatic vegetation.

Where can you find the world’s first lungless frog? In Kapuas river, of course! The Bornean flat-headed frog breathes entirely through its skin.

Scientists first discovered the frog in the middle of Kapuas river basin back in 1978.

9.The longest bridge in Borneo crosses this river

The Tayan Bridge is the longest bridge in Borneo spreading over 1,975 meters. It crosses the Kapuas River in Sanggau, West Kalimantan to connect West Borneo with Central Borneo in Indonesia.

10.You can take a tour upriver from Pontianak

It takes up to two days on the deck to travel up Kapuas river from Pontianak depending on your mode of transportation. In Pontianak, there are travel agencies which can help you to plan a trip upriver if you are feeling adventurous. Plus, there are plenty to see along the river from local villages with different architecture to wildlife that might pass your way.

Go to the furthest upstream and you would find yourself in Tanjung Lokang. Located about 13 hours from Putussibau town by speedboat through Kapuas river, the village belongs to the Dayak Punan.

It is the last village in the Borneo jungle when you are heading east across the island.

5 things to do at Buntal Esplanade, Kuching

Located about 30km from Kuching city, Buntal Esplanade is a hidden gem waiting to be explored more by the locals and tourists alike.

Buntal Esplanade
The road into Kampung Buntal, a local fishing village located between Kuching city and Santubong.

The esplanade is inside Kampung Buntal, a traditional Malay fishing village situated at the mouth of Sarawak river leading to South China Sea.

The village is named after ikan buntal or the puffer fish which commonly found near the area.

If you are looking for fresh air on a Saturday afternoon, here are five things to do at Buntal Esplanade:

Buntal Esplanade 3
Welcome to Buntal Esplanade!

1.Enjoy the beach view

First of all, just enjoy the view of South China Sea at Buntal Esplanade. Do you know that Buntal beach offers a mesmerising scenic view of the sunrise? (Just make sure you’re there before 6 am).

Plus, the best part is that the walkway of Buntal Esplanade is wheelchair-friendly.

Buntal Esplanade 5
The esplanade was designed to be wheelchair-friendly.

2.Buy some seafood

Being a fishing village right next to the ocean, it is no surprise that Buntal provides a variety of fresh marine resources at its market.

Some of their seafood on offer are seasonal catch, so you only get to buy them during certain periods of the year.

These include jelly fish (March-April), swimmer crab (July-August), eng-ngoyang (October-February), sea anemone (December-January) and ambal (December-January).

Additionally, the non-seasonal catches are hard clams, mangrove clams, cockles, mud crabs and obtuse horn shell.

Buntal Esplanade 10
Support the local communities by buying their products.

3. Do some bird-watching activities

Buntal Esplanade 6
The observation point of Buntal Esplanade.

Did you know that Bako Buntal Bay is the wandering site for 27 migratory bird species in their annual migration between Southeast Asia and Australasia?

Completed on March 2015, Buntal Esplanade was designed as a walkaway with an observation point for bird-watching activities.

According to the East Asian-Australasian Flyway Partnership, the Bako Buntal Bay area welcomes more 25,000 migratory birds between October and April every year.

Most of them are threatened species such as Nordmann’s Greenshank, Asian Dowitcher and Far Eastern Curlew.

Meanwhile in 2009, two rare birds – the Pied Avocet and Eurasian Oystercatcher were caught  on sight near the bay.

The habitat in the coastal area is mud and mangrove forest, making it attractive for migratory birds in search of food.

If you notice unique wooden structure near the beach while bird-watching, it could be an engian. It is a traditional trapping method used by the local fishermen to catch anchovies and small shrimps.

Buntal Esplanade 7
Take an evening walk at the esplanade to escape the hustle and bustle of Kuching city.

4.Taste the local food

Buntal Esplanade 8
Try some of these local delicacies such as pais.

Visitors should not miss the chance to buy local delicacies. These include kuih keria (fried dough similar to doughnuts but covered in palm sugar or gula apong), pais ikan (grilled smashed fish) and bahulu.

Other local favourite are belacan (shrimp paste), madu kelulut (stingless bee honey), jeruk buah (pickled fruits) and cencaluk (preserved shrimp).

Buntal Esplanade 9
Kuih Keria.

5.Eat some seafood

Kampung Buntal is one of the favourite local places for Kuchingites to go to enjoy some seafood.

While visiting Buntal Esplanade, why not drop by one of the seafood restaurants like Teo Seafood?

Besides Kampung Buntal, other famous local seafood cuisine spots are at Telaga Air and Muara Tebas.

Buntal Esplanade 2
Kampung Buntal is one of the popular places for local people to enjoy seafood cuisine.

Buntal Esplanade 11
The view of Mount Santubong from Kampung Buntal.

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum

Tikung 9
A bottle of APDS (Association of Periaus of Danau Sentarum) honey.

Where the locals farm their own honey

tikung 4
Honey coming in from different periau ready to be dehumidified and packaged at APDS.

At Danau Sentarum National Park, the local communities manage their honey production in groups called periau made up of traditional forest honey farmers.

Each periau belongs to a village, which will see their respective honey farmers collecting and harvesting their own honey from the tikung, an artificial branch the villagers of the national park use in their traditional honey farming.

Thanks to this traditional way of producing honey, the Board of Indonesian Organic Certification (BioCert) certified it organic in 2007.

There are at least 15 periau located in the area with the oldest group being periau Semangit.

After harvest, the honey will be sent to APDS (Association of Periaus of Danau Sentarum) located at Dusun Semangit (Semangit village).

From APDS, the honey is packaged and sent to Jakarta. According to APDS product manager Abang Muhammad Erwanto, APDS managed to export 7 tonnes of honey to Jakarta this year alone.

Even so, the association is still able to keep up to 3 tonnes for their own stock.

“This stock is for us to sell to any visitors who come to visit Danau Sentarum,” Erwanto said.

The income from the honey provides an alternative income for the these communities who rely heavily on their fishing industry.

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APDS office at Semangit village, West Kalimantan in Indonesia.

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The honey that comes in from the local villages is dehumidified for up to 48 hours before being packaged.

The legend behind the tikung method

How the tikung, or the rafter, method came about is an interesting story on its own. According to Erwanto, the tikung has been used by the local communities for generations.

“Once upon a time, flood hit our villages. Boats drifted away and one of the boats got stuck to a tree. As time passed, a colony of bees came and built their hives in that small boat.”

Inspired by this, the local Malay community of Danau Sentarum started to put up their own artificial branches which they called the tikung.

Tikung is usually made from tembesu (Fagraea fragrans) wood. It is cut into a board about 1.5m in length and hung at an angle from a tree. The bees will come and make their nests on the tikung when the trees begin to bloom. The size of the tikung allows the bees to make bigger hives.

Erwanto pointed out there are no specific kinds of tree to hang the tikung. As for the location of the trees, there is no preference either.

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Erwanto says the honey farming provides an extra income for the people of Danau Sentarum.

A song to call the bees

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Muhammad Wasir is one of the few who can sing the timang before a tikung is put up on the tree.

Interestingly, one of the most important parts of setting up a tikung requires some singing skill. Before a honey farmer climbs up a tree to hang a tikung, one of the villagers would sing a special song called timang.

Muhammad Wasir, 63, is one of the few who can chant the timang song. He remembers how as a young child he used to follow his grandparents to harvest honey. It was then that he first heard the song.

Wasir explained that they believed every tree had a ‘penunggu’ (spirit) who guarded the tree. By singing the timang, the farmers were asking permission from the penunggu to set up the tikung against the tree trunk.

They were also calling upon the bees, imploring them to set up their hives on the tikung and to call more of their friends to the tree.

He has taught his children the song, so he believes that the timang tradition will continue on.

Watch Wasir singing the timang song down below. Take note that every time he claps, those present during the setting up of the tikung also have to clap their hands too.

https://youtu.be/ZoEnEi0j1Qw

The importance of honey production to Danau Sentarum

The forest honey bee (Apis dorsata) is indirectly a bio-indicator of Danau Sentarum.

According to Erwanto, this is because the bees are sensitive to any changes of environmental factors such as temperature.

“If there is any forest fire, the bees will not return to make any hives the subsequent year. This happened once in 2005 when open burning took place near here.”

Erwanto explained that knowing the importance of the forest to these bees made the local communities more protective of the environment.

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A tikung hanging on a tree without its bee’s hive.

A partnership to make Heart of Borneo initiative successful

Located in West Kalimantan, Indonesia, Danau Sentarum National Park falls under the area of Heart of Borneo (HoB).
HoB is a conservation agreement initiated by WWF to protect a 220,000km2 forested region right in the middle of Borneo island.

As part as the HoB initiative, WWF-Indonesia has been supporting APDS through product marketing activities. WWF-Indonesia also been assisting APDS members in Internal Control System (ICS). This is to ensure the farmers maintain the hygiene of their products.

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APDS honey in stock at Semangit.

5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu

As a Kayan from the Malaysian state of Sarawak, Kapuas Hulu is a place that feels familiar and foreign at the same time.

First of all, the Kapuas Hulu region in West Kalimantan is home to a wide diversity of indigenous communities such as the Iban, Silat, Sejiram, Seberaung and Kayan.

Hence, some of the dialects, architecture and of course, food are so familiar making a Sarawakian like me almost forget  that I was in another country.

It seems only natural since the north of Kapuas Hulu borders Sarawak. The differences in Malay dialect and vocabulary as well as infrastructure, however, did remind me that I was no longer in Malaysia.

Thanks to World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Indonesia, I got to visit several districts (kecamatan) under Kapuas Hulu  such as Putussibau, Semitau, Suhaid, Badau and Batang Lupar from Sept 25 till 28, giving me the opportunity to explore what made us similar yet different.

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Indonesian nasi goreng.

Here are five things I learned from a Sarawakian perspective through my culinary experience at Kapuas Hulu, Indonesia:

1. You can take the girl out of the village, but you sure can’t take the village out of the girl

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You can pick which side dish to go with your rice. 

Terserah kedayakanmu, asyik-asyik makan daun ubi, (You are obviously a Dayak since you keep on eating cassava leaves).”

This was what one of my travelling companions, a local reporter from Pontianak said to me.

Malaysian-style ‘nasi campur’ is also common in neighbouring Indonesia. It is our local buffet style where you pick two or three mains – vegetable or protein – to go with your white rice. The price of your meal will be based on your dish types and portions.

While other types of vegetables such as long beans, bean sprout, cabbage and cangkuk manis (Sauropus androgynus) are available, I guess the Kayan blood flowing through my veins led me to pick out the cassava leaves over the rest.

Locally known as daun ubi or sometimes daun bandung in Sambas regency, the leaves are pounded and stir-fried to perfection, just how Sarawakians would enjoy it.

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Instead of the stainless steel canteen style setup we have in Malaysia, the nasi campur stalls across the border lay out their food in this attractive and ingenious way.

2. Chicken rice is called ‘ayam goreng’, not nasi ayam.

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How an ‘ayam goreng’ would look like in Indonesia.

Ayam goreng means fried chicken in Malay. To order ayam goreng in Malaysia will bring you a piece of fried chicken. Meanwhile in Indonesia, ayam goreng comes with a bowl of rice and other side vegetables.

3. Tea is life, not coffee

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Try es jeruk tambah susu which is lime juice with condensed milk.

Most of us in Malaysia love Indonesia’s famous and iconic beverage Teh Botol. Unsurprisingly, tea is a more preferred beverage in the country, compared to coffee.

Indonesia is just like Malaysia where ordering drinks can be tricky and different depending on which state you are in.

But here are key points to remember; it is called ‘es’ not ‘ais’ if you want to order an iced drink. Jeruk in Malaysia means pickled while in Indonesia, you can order ‘air jeruk’ which basically is a lime drink.

Interestingly, you can also order a cup of cappuccino in any common eatery. However do not expect it to come as a double espresso with steamed milk foam. It is equivalent to premixed Malaysian white coffee.

4. The fish is delicious in Kapuas Hulu!

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Fish cooked with asam pedas (spicy tamarind).

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Salted fish roe.

My visit to Kapuas Hulu revolved around Danau Sentarum. It is a magnificent-looking floodplain with plenty of  biodiversity treasures and resources especially fish. Hence, the star of my gastronomic experience is none other than the fish. At one point, it was hard to keep up with the types of fish I tried or which is which but I remember I have tried toman and biawan.

The only type of fish I tasted before during my trip was baung fish. It is a type of catfish which can also be found in Sarawak such as in Bakun or Belaga. In Kapuas Hulu, it is more common to cook these kinds of fish with asam pedas (spicy tamarind).

Fish may not be everybody’s favourite kind of protein, but in Kapuas Hulu,  you might find yourself enjoying it as the freshness adds to its tastiness.

5. Kerupuk basah is a must-try snack

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You must dip the kerupuk basah in the accompanying peanut sauce to enjoy it completely.

Kapuas Hulu’s kerupuk basah is reportedly Indonesian President Jokowi’s favourite food in West Kalimantan and I have to agree with the president because it was delicious. To this day I regret not buying some to bring home.

What might come to mind when you see kerupuk basah is how much it looks like the Malaysian keropok lekor, a traditional fish snack originally from Malaysian state of Terengganu.

The main similarity between kerupuk basah and keropok lekor is that both of them are made of fish but that’s where it ends.

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Freshly cooked kerupuk basah in a steamer.

Kerupuk basah has a spongy and smooth texture, almost like a crossover of textures between siu mai and fish cake.

Apparently the most delicious type of kerupuk basah is made from belidak fish. The one I tried was made from toman fish, but it is still tasty.

Most of the time, the kerupuk is served straight from a steamer, although some people prefer it fried.

What makes kerupuk basah extra tasty though, is the peanut sauce that comes with it. Made from fried peanuts, salt, chilli and sugar, the peanut sauce that goes with kerupuk basah is sweeter than our typical peanut sauce here in Malaysia.

So if you ever make your way to Kapuas Hulu, especially its administrative centre Putussibau, do not leave the regency without trying this iconic snack.

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Kerupuk basah.

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A view of Kapuas river from Semitau.

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A view of Kapuas river from Suhaid.

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Danau Sentarum of Kapuas Hulu.

5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia

Danau Sentarum National Park is a unique seasonal wetland where the water levels can rise up to 12m during raining season.

Together with Betung Kerihun National Park and Kapuas Hulu District, the whole area was awarded the biosphere reserve certificate from Man and Biosphere UNESCO last July 2018.

Located in Kapuas Hulu Regency, West Kalimantan Province, Indonesia, the park lies at the upper Kapuas River vasin.

It is a vast floodplain with 20 seasonal lakes, complete with picturesque freshwater swamp forest and peat swamp forest.

Here are five reasons why you should make your way to Danau Sentarum National Park:

1. Explore a maze-like peat land like no other

Travelling over the blackish water of Danau Sentarum is something that needs to be experienced at least once in your lifetime.

When dry season comes (June till September) and the water recedes, some of the lakes turn into narrowing channels while the channels turn into grasslands.

With all the trees that look almost alike and its winding channels, cruising through Danau Sentarum feels like going through a maze.

Plus, the vast floodplain leaves visitors wondering if there is something beyond the horizon of the lake.

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The national park covers 127,393.4 hectares whereby half of the area are lakes while the other half is swamp forest.

2. Do some birding activities

Pack your binocular and telephoto lenses to engage in birding activities at Danau Sentarum National Park.

About 240 bird species have been sighted at Danau Sentarum which include  the black hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus), great argus (Argusianus argus), Storm’s stork (Ciconia stormi) and crested gowshawk (Accipter trivirgatus).

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Catch some birds on binoculars at Danau Sentarum.

3.Observe the trees and wildlife (on camera) along the way

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Like any other national park, do not litter at Danau Sentarum.

Danau Sentarum National Park is located at the Heart of Borneo (HoB) initiative area. It is a government-led and NGO-supported programme that was initiated by a joint declaration by the governments of Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia in 2007.

Today, it is one of the largest transboundary rainforests remaining in the world.

The whole island of Borneo is home to 6% of the global biodiversity though it only covers 1% of the world’s land area.

One of the areas which contribute to the high biodiversity of Borneo is Danau Sentarum.

It is home to 675 species of plants of which 13 are endemic to Borneo. Additionally, the park provides a natural habitat for orangutans, proboscis monkey, sun bears and arowana fish.

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If you are lucky, you will catch a stork landing on one these village jetties.

4.Watch sunrise and sunset over a floodplain

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A cloudy sunset view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang.

Thanks to its flat geographical feature, Danau Sentarum National Park gives picturesque views during sunrise and sunset.

And the best place to catch this view is at Bukit Tekenang.

Lonely Planet called Danau Sentarum a “photographers haven”,advising visitors to bring that extra memory card during your visit.

5. Learn about the Malay and Dayak cultures of Danau Sentarum

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Dusun Kedungkang, an Iban longhouse located near Danau Sentarum.

What makes Danau Sentarum National Park a unique place to visit is the people living in its area.

There are about 3,000 people living in the 20 villages enclaves within the park. About 90% of them are Malay while the rest are Dayak Iban people.

The Malays live in high-stilt houses connected by bridges while the Ibans live in traditional longhouses.

The residents are very welcoming and visitors should fully utilise their visit to Danau Sentarum by visiting at least one of these traditional villages.

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A Malay village at Danau Sentarum.

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