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Crocodile Effigies Part 1: The Iban Mali Umai Ritual

In days gone by, Ibans carried out rituals and festivals for all occasions. From celebrating the birth of a new baby to warding off bad omens, pest control was no exception.

While some traditions are still practiced today – like the meri anak mandi ritual where a new baby is given a traditional baptism in the river – the mali umai , ngemali umai or nambai umai ritual which sees crocodile effigies being made to ward off pests is rarely done today.

As of 2014, the Sarawak Museum Department has recorded about 40 sites with confirmed effigies built by the Iban community throughout Sarawak. Some of these effigies can be dated back to 100 years.

Among them, 19 can be found in Kuching, Samarahan, Sri Aman and Betong division, while seven can be found in Sibu and Mukah division, three in Sarikei division, and six in Kanowit district.

Presently, there is one at Fort Alice in Simanggang, otherwise known as Sri Aman.

Living next door to Alice

The fort was refurbished in 2015 and turned into a heritage museum
The fort was refurbished in 2015 and turned into a heritage museum.

Fort Alice was named after the second Ranee of Sarawak, Margaret Alice Lili de Windt. Until 2015, it was an abandoned building until it was refurbished and reconstructed into a heritage museum under the Sarawak Museum Department.

The 153-year-old building was built following the victory of Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak, over Rentap, an Iban chieftain. It functioned to control the activities of the Iban from the Saribas area.

While the newly renovated building itself is worth visiting, the earthen crocodile effigies (baya tanah) located outside the compound at the foot of the building also deserves equal attention for their fascinating history and purpose.

A pair of male and female crocodile effigies at Fort Alice
The pair of male and female crocodile effigies at Fort Alice.

Traditional pest control

The effigies were typically made in pairs; one female and one male, the latter often slightly bigger than the former.

Sometimes, the pair would be accompanied with a smaller crocodile effigy, supposedly the baby crocodile.

As part of a hill paddy planting ritual, it is used as an ‘agent’ to get rid of paddy pests such as grasshoppers, locusts, sparrows, rats and monkeys during the weed clearing season (mantun) before the paddy began to bear grain.

According to an entry called “Mali Umai Iban” in the Sarawak Museum Journal vol I.XX, a path would be cleared from the crocodile snouts to the edge of the intended paddy farm after the ritual so that the crocodile spirit wouldn’t get lost.

Typically 2 to 3 metres in length and 0.4 to 0.8 metres in width, most of the effigies face a water source, such as a river or stream.

Only a few face inland. Those that do are in Simanggang, where the effigies face the paddy farm or the setting sun.

Ceramic cups used as the eyes of the crocodile effigies
Ceramic cups used as the eyes of the crocodile effigies

The earthen effigies would often be made on flat ground from the clay soil located at or around the chosen site.

The crocodiles would normally be made with outstretched limbs, forward-facing heads and slightly curved tails.

The ones at Fort Alice have porcelain cups and plates used as the eyes and scales of the crocodile.

Before the availability of porcelain dishware, pebbles were used instead. Besides porcelain, white glass marble or coins were also used.

Ceramic plates as scales
Ceramic plates as scales

Protection against the natural elements

Besides pest control, it was also said that the effigies were used in rituals to stop droughts, known as gawai minta ari.

Usually used in severe weather conditions, rituals were also conducted during torrential rain and flood, asking for dry weather.

The effigies were also used for a ritual called pelasi menoa, meaning to ward off bad omens and calamities.

With most Ibans being exposed to Christianity and the availability of pesticides, however, many have abandoned the practice.

What to do at Santubong, Sarawak?

Santubong Peninsula, with its rich history and great landscape is only a 35-minute drive from Kuching.

Behind its mountain peaks lies an age-old legend of jealousy and rage between Puteri Santubong and her sister Puteri Sejinjang.

Hailing from a celestial kingdom, the princesses were not above sibling rivalry. One fateful day, the princesses fought violently with each other over who was the more beautiful.

Sejinjang hit Santubong’s head, after which the latter fell to the earth, becoming Mount Santubong.

Before she fell, however, she managed to throw the beam of her weaving loom at Sejinjang. The impact broke Sejinjang’s body, and the pieces scattered into the ocean, forming nearby islands Pulau Satang, Pulau Talang-Talang and so on.

With the family feud in the mythical past, Santubong is a famous place for both locals and foreign tourists alike, the beauty of these two sisters still living on to this day through the scenic views of both the rainforest and the South China Sea.

Here are 10 things to do while visiting the Santubong Peninsula:

1. Climb Mount Santubong

A steep climb up to Mount Santubong.
A steep climb up to Mount Santubong.

The number one thing to do (provided you have the passion and stamina) is to climb to the Santubong summit.

It is moderately difficult since it has some steep climbs assisted by rope ladders.

The climb takes about 3 to 4 hours to the summit and up to 3 hours to hike down.

Do not take the climb lightly as there have been cases of climbers becoming stranded out of exhaustion.

It is advisable to depart from the park rangers’ office no later than 8am and take at least 3 litres of water for each person.

Nonetheless, the views from the top are definitely rewarding.

Santubong (15)
The view from the top of Mount Santubong.

2. No energy to climb to the top? Just hike around it.

If you don’t have the energy to climb to the top but still want to enjoy the rainforest, hike around it.

At Santubong National Park, you can either follow the red trail up to the summit or the blue trail for an easier alternative.

The blue trail takes around two hours to complete and will lead you to one of the waterfalls.

If you take the blue trail of Santubong National Park, you'll find yourself on this hanging bridge.
If you take the blue trail of Santubong National Park, you’ll find yourself traversing this hanging bridge.

3. Take a dip in one of the jungle pools

While you are paying Mother Nature a visit, you might at as well take a refreshing dip in  one of its jungle pools.

Both blue and red trails at the national park have waterfalls to offer.

The waters are relatively shallow at all the waterfalls and may be only waist-deep at most.

Take a relaxing dip at one of the waterfalls at Mount Santubong.
Take a relaxing dip at one of the waterfalls at Mount Santubong.

4. Explore the coastline, not just Damai Beach

Apart from Damai Beach, there is another less famous but equally beautiful beach located at Santubong Peninsula.

Situated at Kampung Santubong, Pantai Puteri offers a scenic view of its coast.

It is a great place for beach combing as you can walk as far as the mouth of Santubong River.

There are plenty of weird-looking rock formations to explore as you draw closer to the estuary.

Be alert to your surroundings because if you are lucky enough, you might spot a kingfisher or two.

Here are some photos taken at Pantai Puteri:

5. Kayak along the shoreline

Another way to enjoy the shoreline is to kayak along it.

Permai Beach Resort and Damai Beach Resort offer kayaks for rent at affordable prices.

There are other recreational activities as well such as scuba diving, snorkelling and stand up paddleboards.

Each of them allows visitors to look at Santubong from different perspectives.

Kayaking is a relaxing way to explore Santubong.
Kayaking is a relaxing way to explore Santubong.

6. Have a taste of Sarawak culture

Visiting a new place would not be complete without having a taste of its culture.

Sarawak Cultural Village (SCV) is an award-winning living museum depicting the cultural heritage of major racial groups in Sarawak.

There are seven unique houses which invite visitors to have an insight of the traditional life: the Bidayuh longhouse, Iban longhouse, Orang Ulu longhouse, Chinese farmhouse, Melanau tall house, Malay house and Penan hut.

Do not miss their cultural performances held at its theater twice a day at 11.30 and 4pm.

Once a year, SCV also plays host to the world renowned Rainforest World Music Festival.

Santubong (12)
One of the performers from Kobagi Kecak (Indonesia) during Rainforest World Music Festival 2016.

7. Swim in the South China Sea

Put on your bikinis or swimming trunks and just have a swim – but don’t forget to put on some sunscreen first!

Santubong (9)
Just take a swim!

8. Visit historical sites

The history of Santubong can be traced as far back as the 7th century.

The artifacts found in the area shows that the peninsula was a trading port between Borneo and China.

One of the historical places to visit at Santubong is Sultan Tengah Mausoleum.

It is located right before the junction to Santubong village.

The first and only Sultan of Sarawak, Sultan Tengah died in 1641 and was buried together with his family members.

Other historical sites include Batu Bergambar near Sungai Jaong, Cursed Crocodile Stone in Santubong village and archaeological site of  Bongkisam.

Santubong (10)
Miss the crowd by visiting Santubong during weekdays.

9. Explore Damai Craftworld and Event Centre

It was formerly known and still preferably called Damai Central.

The place has wide variety of facilities and services to offer which include barbecue pits, camp ground, event venues, food courts and crafts bazaars.

Monkeys can easily be spotted even at Damai Central.
Monkeys can easily be spotted even at Damai Central.

10. Sit back, have a beer and enjoy the sunset

This is perhaps the best thing to do at Santubong.

Plop down on one of the seats at Escobar at Damai Craftworld and Event Centre, have a sip of a cold beer and then simply enjoy the sunset.

Santubong (11)
The sun setting at Santubong.

Marudi: Small town, big cultural heart

Marudi (5)
The map of Marudi on the bank of the Baram River.

Overlooking the Baram River, Marudi may not have much entertainment or conveniences to offer in the way a big city might, but it has its small-town charms that make for a pleasant visit.

The quiet riverine town is home to at least 90,100 people, and plays a big part as a cultural and historical centre of the northern part of Sarawak.

Located 80km from Miri, there is a road connected to the town but as at the time of writing, road conditions are not really satisfactory. Let’s just say there are plenty of potholes waiting for you on your way to Marudi, but don’t let this deter you. The chance to visit this humble town and experience an authentic slice of Sarawakian life, enjoy its past and present, is worth a little bump in the road.

Here are the top five things to do if you happen to visit Marudi, this beautiful riverine town:

1.Eat Marudi’s famous Kueh Tiaw (fried noodles)

Marudi

This is the number one thing anybody should do if they are visiting Marudi for the first time.

Kueh Tiaw Marudi is unlike any other kueh tiaw you can find in Malaysia. Part of its appeal lies in the texture of its noodles, which are thicker than its other Malaysian counterparts.

You can order this in  any Chinese kopitiam in town, but I prefer those sold by the stalls on the first floor of the Marudi District Council market.

Some stalls open as early as 6.30 in the morning so you can have your kueh tiaw fix as early as possible.

You can enjoy this dish fried or as kueh tiaw basah (literally, wet kueh tiaw) which comes soaked in broth.

Marudi (2)

2.Let them eat bread!

Another must-try food is – surprisingly – a humble home-baked bread.

This soft bread at Jeng Seng Loong Cafe goes well with kaya (coconut spread) or butter.

There are other baked goods available at the cafe as well such as butter and kaya buns but their bread loaves are definitely the highlight of this coffeeshop.

Marudi (3)

3.Visit Fort Hose

This is the main tourist attraction in Marudi, named after former resident Charles Hose.

It used to be an administration office during the Brooke reign, but has been converted into a museum.

Take a glimpse of the local cultures and heritage as the fort houses local textiles, beads, handicrafts and ceremonial items.

Click here  for more about Fort Hose.

Marudi (9)
The town’s main tourist attraction.

4.Watch the oldest regatta in Sarawak

Visit Marudi at the right time and you’ll find yourself watching Baram Regatta, the oldest regatta in Sarawak.

This bi-annual event has been held since 1899 after a peace conference arranged by Charles Hose successfully ended the ongoing  tribal war in the region.

You can visit Sarawak Tourism Board website to know when the regatta will be held next year.

Marudi (7)
A monument to commemorate the oldest regatta in Sarawak.

5.Take a walk around town

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Marudi town in the evening.

Marudi is a small town where you can spend a whole day and still fully enjoy what the town has to offer.

Skip the car and simply take a stroll around town. While you’re at it, just enjoy the peace and quiet of a small town and take your mind off of your busy daily life.

Marudi (6)
Unique tribal paintings decorate the city,  reminding visitors of the town’s cultural roots.

Heineken Malaysia’s Apple Fox Cider comes to East Malaysia

The launch of Apple Fox Cider in Kuching by Loh Ee Lin (罗依玲), Marketing Manager of Heineken Malaysia Berhad and Billy Low Kuek Yaw (罗国耀), Channel Execution Manager
The launch of Apple Fox Cider in Kuching by Marketing Manager of Heineken Malaysia Berhad Loh Ee Lin (third left) and Channel Execution Manager Billy Low Kuek Yaw (second right) on Sept 25.

Hello Sarawak! There is a new fox in town and it is called Apple Fox Cider!

Available in East Malaysia from October 2017 onwards, the New Zealand-inspired cider is a new addition to Heineken Malaysia Berhad’s line of global brands.

According to Heineken Malaysia Berhad Marketing Manager Loh Ee Lin, a growing number of consumers globally are discovering the appeal of cider.

“We strive to present the best ciders that fulfills this demand. Apple Fox complements our cider portfolio, offering the best secrets of cider making at attractive pricing for everyone to enjoy.”

The product which was already launched in West Malaysia last August, enjoyed its official debut in East Malaysia at Magazzino Bistro and Restaurant on Sept 25.

The event was attended by local celebrities, media practitioners, social media influencers and business owners who became the first group of people in East Malaysia to try the crisp and refreshing drink.

Local talents Two of Us featuring Mozaik were also there to entertain the crowd.

So what about #Whatthefox

Apple Fox Product Shot
Apple Fox Cider in its den!

Perfect for those afternoon pick-ups, Apple Fox Cider is a straight-up, instant refreshment with a contemporary and bold edge.

With 45% of its content made up of apple juice concentrate, the cider captures the perfect blend of the sweet and sour flavours of an apple.

It is very smooth to sip and even smoother to drink when served on ice.

Said to be made from the freshest selection of crisp and tart apples, Apple Fox Cider contains 4.5% ABV (alcohol by volume) and delivers an instant refreshing taste.

Apple Fox is available in 320ml cans and 325ml bottles. It will be available at hypermarkets, supermarkets and convenience stores, also in bars, pubs and restaurants.

A special introductory price from RM5.80 per can will be offered for a limited time to celebrate the launch of Apple Fox Cider in Malaysia.

Keep updated by following Apple Fox Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/applefoxmy & Instagram @AppleFox_MY or visit www.applefox.com.

Don’t forget to hashtag #WhatTheFox and #AppleFoxCider while enjoying your Apple Fox with friends.

 

Kesedapan mi udang Jakar sukar ditandingi

Mi Udang Jakar 1   Mi Udang Jakar 4

Mana-mana pengunjung yang berkesempatan untuk berkunjung ke pekan Jakar, 20km dari bandar Sarikei, wajib merasa mi udang di Peking Restaurant.

Lebih dikenali sebagai Mi Udang Jakar, hidangan tersebut dimasak cara masakan Foochow dimana mi nya digoreng berasingan dari kuahnya.

Hidangan tersebut terdiri daripada mi kuning, udang sungai dan sayur sawi yang dimasak menggunakan sos kicap.

Restoran itu telah beroperasi selama 20 tahun tetapi menurut pemiliknya Wong Lin Siong, 54, perniagaannya hanya mula berkembang sekitar 10 tahun yang lalu.

“Apabila saya mula-mula berniaga, saya tidak mempunyai ramai pelanggan. Syukurlah beberapa pelanggan saya terus kembali dan membawa pelanggan baharu juga,”katanya.

Apabila ditanya mengenai apa yang membuat mi udangnya berbeza dari yang lain, Wong menjawab: “Udang yang dimasak mempunyai tekstur yang bagus dan lembut, menjadikan mi tersebut sangat sedap.”

“Penduduk tempatan akan datang ke kedai untuk menjual saya udang yang baru ditangkap begitulah saya mendapat bekalan saya.”

Wong tidak akan mempunyai bekalan semasa musim hujan apabila penduduk tempatan tidak keluar untuk menangkap udang.

Mi Udang Jakar 3

“Satu lagi perkara yang baik untuk kami adalah pelanggan kami cukup sabar untuk menunggu kerana mengambil sedikit masa untuk memasak hidangan itu.”

Beliau memerlukan masa untuk menyediakan dan memasak udang secara berasingan sebelum menggoreng mereka dengan mi menurut resipi sendiri.

“Saya mahu memastikan kualiti memasak saya jadi saya hanya menyediakan udang selepas pelanggan telah memesan hidangan itu.”

Bagaimanapun, membuka perniagaan di perhentian rehat seperti Jakar tidak menjamin pelanggan sepanjang tahun.

“Kami sibuk dengan ramai pelanggan semasa tempoh perayaan seperti Tahun Baru Cina, Gawai dan Krismas. Hari-hari lain, tidak banyak yang berlaku di sini di Jakar, “kata Wong.

Selain daripada mi udang, pekan Jakar juga terkenal dengan serbuk kopinya. Pekan tersebut mempunyai kilang yang membakar biji-biji kopi yang membekalkan serbuk kopi kepada kedai-kedai kopi di Jakar dan Sarikei.
Antara tarikan pelancongan yang lain ialah rumah panjang tradisional seperti Rumah Nyuka di Ulu Sarikei dan tempat-tempat pelancongan seperti Air Terjun Pala Munso.

Mi Udang Jakar 2

Mi Udang Jakar 5

Upacara Mali Umai oleh kaum Iban di Sarawak

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Pada zaman dahulu, patung-patung telah dibuat oleh kaum Iban adalah sebahagian daripada ritual penanaman padi bukit yang dikenali sebagai mali umai atau ngemali umai atau nambai umai.

Sebagai pengamal animisme, orang Iban pada masa dahulu akan mengadakan upacara dan perayaan untuk pelbagai majlis.

Daripada merayakan kelahiran seorang bayi  kepada menghindari nasib buruk, kegiatan untuk mengawal serangga perosak juga tidak terkecuali.

Patung buaya biasanya dibina secara berpasangan.
Patung buaya biasanya dibina secara berpasangan.

Banchi yang dijalankan oleh Jabatan Muzium Sarawak mencatatkan ada kira-kira 35 buah  tapak patung-patung di seluruh Sarawak.

19 boleh ditemui di bahagian Kuching, Samarahan, Sri Aman dan Betong, manakala 7 boleh ditemui di bahagian Sibu dan Mukah, 3 di bahagian Sarikei, dan 6 di daerah Kanowit.

Kini, masih ada patung-patung tersebut boleh ditemui di Kubu Alice yang terletak di Simanggang atau lebih dikenali sebagai Sri Aman.

Kubu Alice di Simanggang, Sarawak
Kubu Alice di Simanggang, Sarawak

Sehingga 2015, Kubu Alice telah dibiarkan sehingga ianya dibina semula dan diubah suai untuk  menjadi sebuah muzium warisan.

Kubu ini terbuka untuk orang ramai.
Kubu ini terbuka untuk orang ramai.

Kubu berusia 153 tahun itu dinamakan selepas Ranee kedua Sarawak iaitu Margaret Alice Lili de Windt.

Kubu tersebut telah dibina berikutan selepas kemenangan Rajah kedua Sarawak; Rajah Charles Brooke yang menentang  Rentap, seorang ketua Iban.

Kubu ini terbuka untuk orang ramai.
Kubu ini terbuka untuk orang ramai.

Ia berfungsi untuk mengawal kegiatan Iban dari Saribas.

Walaupun kubu baru itu sendiri adalah satu tarikan utama untuk para pelawat, patung-patung tanah lumpur (baya tanah) yang terletak di kawasan kubu itu juga juga mempunyai tarikan tersendiri  dari segi sejarah dan tujuannya pembuatannya yang menarik.

Biasanya patung-patung buaya tanah lumpur akan  dibuat dalam bentuk  pasangan ; satu perempuan dan satu lelaki yang biasanya akan dibuat sedikit lebih besar daripada yang perempuan.

Kadang-kala, pasangan buaya itu disertai dengan sebuah patung buaya yang lebih kecil, kononnya anak buaya. Sebagai sebahagian daripada upacara penanaman padi bukit, ia bertujuan sebagai alat untuk menbasmi  perosak padi seperti belalang, belalang, burung gereja, tikus dan monyet semasa musim rumput (mantun) sebelum padi mula membuahkan hasil biji benih.

Di Kubu Alice, patung-patung buaya yang dibuat adalah pasangan dan kedua-duanya dapat dilihati menghadap ke arah yang sama.

Dengan saiz dua hingga tiga meter panjang dan lebar 0.4 hingga 0.8 meter, kebanyakan patung-patung tersebut akan menghadap ke arah sumber air seperti sungai atau sungai.

Hanya segelintir sahaja  yang akan menghadap ke arah kawasan tanah, dan antara contoh yang ada adalah yang seperti yang terletak di Simanggang di mana patung-patung tersebut menghadap kawasan ladang padi atau ke arah matahari terbenam.

Patung-patung lumpur akan sering dibina di kawasan yang rata dan diperbuat daripada tanah yang terletak di sekitar kawasan yang dipilih. Tanah tersebut akan digali dan dibentuk menjadi bentuk sebuah buaya dengan anggota badan yang terulur, kepala lurus dan ekor melengkung.

Kadangkala, selepas upacara telah dilakukan sebuah jalan kecil akan dibina ke arah kawasan ladang padi yang selalunya terletak tidak jauh daripada moncong patung-patung buaya tanah lumpur. Ini untuk memastikan semangat buaya tidak sesat.

Cawan seramic diguna untuk mata buaya.
Cawan seramic diguna untuk mata buaya.

Bagi yang terdapat  di Kubu Alice, cawan dan pinggan ceramic digunakan sebagai mata dan skala buaya. Tetapi sebelum ini, batu-batu kecil digunakan sebaliknya.

Piring ceramic sebagai sisik buaya.
Piring ceramic sebagai sisik buaya.

Selain ceramic, biji marmar kaca putih atau syiling juga digunakan. Selain mengawal serangga perosak, patung-patung ini digunakan dalam ritual yang dikenali sebagai gawai minta ari untuk menghentikan musim kemarau.

Biasanya digunakan untuk  keadaan cuaca yang teruk, upacara juga dilakukan semasa hujan lebat dan musim banjir, untuk meminta cuaca kering.

Patung-patung itu juga digunakan untuk upacara pelasi menoa yang bertujuan untuk menghindari nasib dan bencana yang buruk.

Walaupun upacara mali umai merupakan  upacara yang lama dan menarik, ramai yang mula meninggalkan amalan tersebut  atas beberapa sebab yang praktikal.

Kini, oleh kerana ramai masyarakat kaum Iban telah menganut agama Kristian, ramai yang mula meninggalkan upacara  lama tersebut.

Selain itu, ramai juga terdorong untuk mengguna racun perosak sebagai alternatif baru untuk mengawal serangga kerana ianya lebih murah dan cepat.

National Geographic enthusiast turns orangutan devotee

Orangutan in canopy_LH
Orangutan usually lives up around the canopy area and is very agile in travelling across canopy. Photo credit: © Lukmann Haqeem

Be it exploring something new or to re-learn our history, the documentaries brought by National Geographic have drawn Lukmann Haqeem to be part of the conservation world.

Working as senior field biologist in WWF-Malaysia under the Sarawak Conservation Programme, Lukmann reminisced, “The show instills the desire to explore nature in me. I have always liked the idea of becoming a pioneer and taking human civilisation to a new level.”

When he was in secondary school, he developed an interest in Biology. During his final year of high school, he won the overall best student for the subject. This propelled Lukmann to pursue his studies in Ecology and Biodiversity at the University of Malaya, Kuala Lumpur.

“I figured that I will do something that I’m good at and passionate about at the same time. Becoming a field biologist is like a dream come true as it incorporates both exploring nature and my love for biology,” said the 29-year old conservationist.

Lukmann, who is fondly known as Bob, now spends most of his time researching wild animals, especially orangutans. He began developing an interest in working with orangutans after watching several documentaries on the charismatic species.

“Although orangutans are popular animals, not much is known about them. I decided to study them because I wanted to find out the answers myself.”

He also mentioned that the orangutan has the slowest breeding rate of any primate and is one of the most slow-breeding mammals. The interval between one birth to the next can be as little as three years or as long as eight years.

“That is why it is important to conserve them. There is no certainty on when the next generation will be born. The death of an orangutan is always a big loss to their community,” he added.

He usually spends about two and a half months to complete a survey on orangutan nests. Within that period, he will conduct three sets of field surveys, about two to three weeks for each survey with short breaks in between.

Like any other field biologist, Bob also faces many challenges. In Sarawak, the orangutan lives in rugged terrains and so Bob has to hike up and down several mountains before reaching any orangutan habitat. Besides that, he also needs to carry his own supplies into the jungle which can weigh more than 20kg.

“Another challenge will be with the orangutans themselves. They are elusive and very hard to detect. Orangutans are known to hide themselves among the canopy when they sense potential danger. Sometimes it takes me weeks before actually seeing one.”

Currently, Bob is assisting in a new transboundary green economy project area in the Heart of Borneo (HoB), funded under the International Climate Initiative (IKI), Federal Ministry for the Environment Nature Conservation, Building and Nuclear Safety of Germany.

This two-million hectare site stretches from central Sarawak, Malaysia to northern West Kalimantan, Indonesia. The project site in Sarawak includes two important orangutan areas which are also biologically rich – Batang Ai National Park and Lanjak-Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary.

One of Bob’s tasks is to investigate species presence within the HoB landscape, and to advocate for the conservation of areas where they are found so that they can have the opportunity to thrive.

“Both sites are where most orangutans in Sarawak live. Although they live in protected areas, they don’t know what a boundary is. There are always possibilities that they will travel outside the protected areas and into the hands of hunters and poachers,” he explains.

Currently there are about 1,600 orangutans left in Sarawak. This figure is nothing compared to 11,000 orangutans found in neighbouring state of Sabah.

Bob hopes that his efforts, along with that of other experts and stakeholders, will help the orangutan population in Sarawak continue to thrive for posterity.

In Sarawak, some communities, like the Ibans, have a cultural connection with orangutans. The orangutan is revered by them as they believe that humans either are descended from the orangutan, or they turned into orangutans when they die. It is also a taboo to kill orangutans according to the Iban native law.

“The people in Batang Ai still practise this cultural connection and hence orangutans are able to survive there. However, this connection has diminished in other places and orangutans have been wiped out as a result of habitat destruction and illegal killing.”

“I hope our conservation efforts will help people to re-establish their culture and connection with orangutans. With the taboo in place, orangutan populations will hopefully recover naturally and they can live harmoniously with these communities,” he said.

The orangutan is Asia’s only great ape and is found only on the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. In Malaysia, the orangutan sub-species, Pongo pygmaeus pygmaeus, occurs in Sarawak and West Kalimantan; and Pongo pygmaeus morio occurs in Sabah and East Kalimantan. In Sarawak, most orangutans occur mainly in protected areas, but incidental poaching cannot be totally ruled out due to lack of management presence in many of the orangutans’ habitats and protected areas. The orangutan is classified as Totally Protected under the Sarawak Wild Life Protection Ordinance (1998).

 

Lawatan ke Kubu Hose di Marudi

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Lawatan ke Marudi, sebuah bandar yang terletak di utara Sarawak, tidak akan lengkap tanpa lawatan ke Kubu Hose.

Terletak kira-kira 100km dari Kuala Baram, Marudi dulu pernah menjadi pusat pentadbiran kawasan ini sebelum bandaraya Miri diasaskan.

Hari ini ia adalah bandar terbesar di daerah Baram.

Semuanya bermula pada tahun 1883 apabila Sultan Brunei, Sultan Abdul Momin menyerahkan wilayah Baram kepada Charles Brooke, White Rajah yang kedua.

Bahagian Baram menjadi bahagian keempat Sarawak dengan Mamerto George Gueritz dilantik sebagai Residen pertama.

Apabila pentadbiran Brooke memperoleh kawasan baru untuk mentadbir, perkara pertama yang akan dilakukan adalah membina sebuah kubu.

Pembinaan kubu bermula pada tahun 1889 dan telah siap pada tahun 1901. Kubu tersebut dinamakan sempena Charles Hose, yang dilantik sebagai Residen bahagian tersebut pada tahun 1891.

Kubu itu dibina dengan kayu belian di atas bukit yang menghadap ke sungai Baram.

Terdapat juga dua meriam besar yang diletak di hadapan kubu untuk melindungi bangunan tersebut daripada penceroboh.

Fort Hose juga digunakan sebagai pejabat pentadbiran dan rumah Residen.

Pada tahun 1899, bangunan itu menjadi tempat termenterai nya perjanjian damai yang akan mengakhiri peperangan di kalangan semua kaum di kawasan Baram.

Sejak itu, bangunan tersebut digunakan Pejabat Daerah, Jabatan Kebajikan Masyarakat, Jabatan Imigresen, Jabatan Tanah dan Jabatan Penerangan.

Apabila orang Jepun menyerang Sarawak semasa Perang Dunia II, mereka menggunakannya sebagai ibu pejabat Kempeitai atau Polis Tentera.

Ia kali terakhir digunakan sebagai pejabat Pembangunan Komuniti Pusat Pameran Kraf Tangan Orang Penan.

Pada 24 Ogos 1994, sekitar tengah malam, Fort Hose telah terbakar hampir 100 tahun selepas ia dibina.

Pada tahun 1995, komuniti di sekitar kawasan Baram menyumbang batang kayu Belian untuk membina semula kubu.

Ia kemudiannya dibina semula mengikut dimensi dan reka bentuk asalnya.

Ia secara rasmi dinamakan semula sebagai Muzium Wilayah Baram pada 25 Mei 1997.

Di muzium ini, pelawat boleh melihat koleksi gambar yang diambil oleh Hose sendiri.

Kebanyakannya adalah potret Orang Ulu yang diambil pada awal abad ke-20 serta kehidupan seharian mereka seperti pemprosesan garam.

Tekstil tempatan, barang-barang manik, ukiran kayu dan barang upacara seperti topeng kayu yang digunakan oleh masyarakat Orang Ulu juga dipamerkan.

Ia juga menempatkan sape yang sepanjang 30 kaki panjang, sape terbesar dalam Buku Rekod Guinness Malaysia untuk menjadi yang terbesar seumpamanya.

Dibina pada tahun 2008, alat muzik seperti lute dibuat oleh pembuat sape Anyie Wan, Hillary Tawan Achai dan Noel Along Anyie.

Walaupun ia agak kecil berbanding dengan muzium lain di Sarawak, ia menawarkan panduan komprehensif untuk sejarah Baram dan rakyatnya.

Ia mungkin satu-satunya muzium di Malaysia yang memberi tumpuan terutamanya kepada budaya dan sejarah masyarakat Orang Ulu termasuk Kayan, Kenyah, Penan dan Kelabit.

Pengunjung juga boleh berjalan-jalan di taman sekitar kubu kerana ia menawarkan pemandangan sungai Baram yang indah.

Muzium ini dibuka Selasa hingga Jumaat (9 pagi hingga 4 petang), Sabtu dan Ahad (10 pagi hingga 4 petang). Masuk adalah percuma.

Read this in English.

Misteri dan kejadian aneh Batu Nabau di Engkilili

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Batu Nabau yang terletak di 3km dari pusat pekan Engkilili terus menjadi tarikan pelancong baik dari dalam dan luar Bumi Kenyalang.

Batu Nabau Engkilili (7)
Batu Nabau, batu yang dipercayai seekor ular.

Terletak kira-kira 230km dari Kuching, pekan Engkilili dinamakan sempena pokok Engkilili yang mudah dijumpai di kawasan ini.

Pelbagai misteri yang dikaitkan dengan batu tersebut membuatkanya sering dikunjungi pelancong.

Batu tersebut berbentuk silinder dengan panjang kira-kira sembilan meter dan diameter dua meter.

Batu itu, yang kelihatannya mempunyai hujung runcing seperti kepala ular, nampak seolah-olah keluar dari tanah, menyebabkan orang ramai percaya bahawa batu tersebut sememangnya ular yang bertukar jadi batu.

Batu Nabau juga dikenal sebagai Batu Lintang oleh penduduk tempatan sebelum ini hanyalah batu biasa yang mereka lalui dalam perjalanan ke kebun mereka.

Sekitar 20 tahun yang lalu, beberapa lelaki Cina tempatan membawa seorang lelaki Thailand untuk melawat batu tersebut.

Lelaki Siam itu berkata beliau termimpi mengenai batu tersebut dan batu itu sebenarnya adalah ular sebenar dan dia harus memuja ular itu.

Orang-orang rumah panjang menunjukkan kepadanya apa yang mereka panggil Batu Lintang ketika itu.

Batu Nabau Engkilili (11)
Penduduk tempatan membina sebuah pondok di sebelah Batu Nabau.

Orang Thai mendakwa bahawa doa dan persembahannya yang dibuat di atas batu itu telah dijawab, menyebabkan ramai orang berkumpul di kawasan itu untuk mencari keajaiban.

Penduduk Iban yang menetap tidak jauh dari batu tersebut erkejut pada mulanya untuk melihat semua kemenyan dan lilin yang dipasang di batu tersebut.

Pada mulanya, pelawat melemparkan telur mentah, duit syiling dan menuang susu di atas batu sehingga orang tempatan meletakkan tanda yang melarang mereka berbuat demikian.

Orang-orang Cina tempatan juga melukis jalur kuning pada batu tersebut untuk menjadikannya lebih mirip seperti ular.

Lama-kelamaan, penduduk Iban mula memanggilnya Batu Nabau (sejenis ular di Iban) dan bukannya Batu Lintang.

Ada yang mendakwa mereka menang hadiah loteri selepas meminta nombor ekor dari Batu Nabau.

Ada juga komuniti Iban yang membuat upacara ‘miring’ di Batu Nabau.

Batu Nabau Engkilili (10)
Batu tersebut berbentuk silinder dengan panjang kira-kira sembilan meter dan diameter dua meter.

Sekarang, ramai Iban tempatan telah percaya bahawa ‘ular’ tersebut adalah dewa yang melindungi kawasan itu dengan kuasa mistik.

Salah satu kejadian aneh yang berlaku di kawasan tersebut apabila musim hujan.

Selebat hujan mana sekalipun, penduduk tempatan menyedari bahawa batu itu tidak pernah terendam dan entah bagaimana kelihatan terapung tepat di atas air walaupun seluruh kawasan tersebut dibanjiri.

Tambahan lagi, ada surat khabar tempatan melaporkan beberapa tahun lalu bahawa huruf abjad Jawi dikatakan telah ditemui di Batu Nabau.

Huruf alif, lam, nun, mim dan sinwere dikatakan telah ditemui terukir atas batu tersebut.

Sehingga kini, tiada siapa yang benar-benar tahu kebenaran sebenar di sebalik Batu Nabau.

Batu Nabau Engkilili (4)
Batu Nabau terletak tidak jauh dari pekan Engkilili.

Pastor Ding, ahli sejarah Kayan luar biasa

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PHDing-left-with-two-men-from-Uma-Aging-Belaga-20150704-AZAM-IIC
Pastor Ding (kiri) bersama lelaki-lelaki dari Uma Aging, Belaga.
PHDing-right-with-women-of-Uma-Pako-Tubau.-20150704-AZAM-IIC
Pastor Ding (kanan) bersama penduduk Uma Pako, Tubau.
PHLiiLong-and-his-wife-Ipui-Lahe-20150704-AZAM-IIC
Lii’ Long (kanan) bersama isterinya Ipui Lahe.

Pada tahun 1970an, terdapat seorang lelaki berbangsa Kayan di Mendalam, Kalimantan Barat, Borneo dikenali sebagai Pastor Aloysius Johannes Ding Ngo yang bertungkus-lumus mencatat tradisi dan mitos kaum Kayan.

Beliau mendapat pendidikan beliau di Belanda dan merupakan orang Dayak pertama yang menjadi paderi Katolik.

Beliau bekerjasama dengan Lii’ Long, seorang penyanyi yang juga berasal dari Mendalam untuk mencatat cerita-cerita dongeng tersebut.

Pada tahun 1974, beliau memulakan perjalanan beliau ke Baram, Tubau dan Balui (Belaga) di Sarawak dan kemudiannya ke Kapuas dan Mahakam di Kalimantan Barat, seterusnya ke Samarinda pada tahun 1977 dan Apo Kayan pada tahun 1980.

Sepanjang perjalanan beliau, Pastor Ding akan menulis pengalaman beliau dalam bentuk diari dan gambar etnografi dan kemudian menghantar buku tersebut kepada rakan-rakannya.

Beliau juga menemu-bual mana-mana orang Kayan yang beliau terjumpa terutamanya mereka yang berpengetahuan dalam tradisi kaum tersebut.

Pastor Ding mempunyai kelebihan yang unik, beliau pandai menulis dan fasih bertutur dalam enam bahasa iaitu Kayan, Belanda, Latin, Indonesia, Jerman dan Inggeris.

Antara catatan terpenting beliau ialah Takna’ Lawe’, cerita mengenai legenda orang Kayan.

Lawe’ dianggap sebagai hero oleh Kayan Mendalam dan ceritanya tersebar ke orang Kayan di Balui, Baram, Mahakam dan Apo Kayan.

Namun di Balui, Lawe’ dikenali sebagai Belawan.

Pastor Ding juga menulis buku setebal 900 muka surat yang berjudul Sejarah Orang Kayan dan kamus Kayan-Indonesia yang termasuk perkataan-perkatan lama yang jarang diguna pada zaman sekarang.

Sepanjang hidup beliau, satu-satunya buku berjaya diterbitkan ialah ‘Syair Lawe’.

Buku tersebut diterbitkan pada tahun 1984-1984 oleh Gadjah Mada University Press.

Selebihnya buku-buku beliau dikumpulkan dan disebarkan dalam bentuk salinan karbon dan foto di antara orang Kayan tempatan.

Antara manuskrip yang belum diterbitkan ialah Takna’ Idaa’ Beraan dan Takna’ Kabuk Buaang oleh Juk Linge dan Lii’ Long, Takna’ Bakunng Dawing dari Mahakam dan Lung Jalivaan Hajaan yang terdiri daripada 22 cerita dongeng orang Kayan.

Malangnya, Pastor Ding meninggal dunia ketika menulis autobiografi beliau berdasarkan perjalanan hidup beliau semenjak 1940s.

Beliau meninggal dunia pada 6 Jun, 1995 di Sintang, Indonesia, 10 bulan sebelum hari jadinya yang ke-80.