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Gerard MacBryan, the most eccentric Sarawak officer exposed

Gerard MacBryan
Gerard MacBryan after his pilgrimage to Mecca.

“There came out to Sarawak at about this time a young man who was destined to play a sinister part in the history of the Sarawak Raj.”

This is how Sylvia Brett, the last Ranee of Sarawak introduces Gerald MacBryan in her book Queen of the Headhunters.

The Brooke family governed Sarawak between 1841 and 1946. James Brooke ruled the area until his death in 1868. He was succeeded by his nephew Charles who in turn was succeeded by his son Vyner.

During the Brooke family’s reign, many British citizens were employed into Sarawak service.

One of them being Gerard MacBryan or his full name was Truman Magill MacBryan, whom some historians believed was Sarawak’s equivalent to Rasputin.

The story of Gerard MacBryan

Gerard MacBryan was the son of a doctor who owned a mental hospital near Bath, England. He was described as tall, graceful with bright eyes and ivory-white skin.

MacBryan was only 18 when he entered the Sarawak government service in 1920. Soon after MacBryan arrived in Sarawak for duty, however, rumours already began spreading about him.

According to Sylvia, “MacBryan, it was said, suffered from hallucinations that his bungalow was being attacked, and would start shooting wildly into the darkness.”

Sylvia was not the only one who recorded MacBryan’s lunacy.

Robert Payne in The White Rajahs of Sarawak stated that most of the white Sarawak officers during the Brooke reign were too busy to indulge in complicated pleasures.

“With Malays, Dyaks, Chinese, and Indians, all around them, and with a growing country to serve, they were kept occupied. Only one went mad, but he had a streak of madness in him long before he came to Sarawak.”

And of course the madman Payne referred to in his book was none other than MacBryan himself who was reported to have had a series of manic episodes.

Once in South Africa, he appeared naked at a party, and afterwards explained that he thought he was invisible. Sometimes he thought he was a dog, and would walk on all fours, barking at the top of his voice.

MacBryan also allegedly stole from shops and alms-boxes.

Gerard MacBryan and Vyner Brooke

Even so, with all the manic incidents, how MacBryan would continue to stay and serve in Sarawak was due to his relationship with the third white rajah, Vyner Brooke.

Of his first impression, Vyner told his wife, Sylvia that he thought MacBryan was “wonderful, but nuts”.

Putting aside the nuisance he presented to some of his fellow white officers, the Malay and Dayak people reportedly loved him.

MacBryan spoke fluent Malay and had even delivered a speech in Kenyah.

He also proved himself helpful by negotiating the peace-making ceremony between the Ibans and Kayans in Kapit in 1924.

Vyner nicknamed MacBryan the “Baron”, after Baron von Munchausen, the German cavalry officer who had been renowned for his fantastic and irresponsible antics.

According to historian Dr Bob Reece in The Name of Brooke, MacBryan was a man of considerable talent with an intelligence superior to that of most officers.

Reece wrote,

“More importantly, he was a skillful politician and a shrewd judge of character. He seems to have had the knack of knowing how the Rajah’s mind worked and of suggesting courses of action which would fulfil his wishes. In other words, MacBryan was capable of doing the Rajah’s thinking and decision making for him, something Vyner Brooke found very useful sometimes.”

Gerard MacBryan interfering with the succession to the throne

Vyner and Sylvia had no sons, so MacBryan began courting their young daughters. He even openly talked about becoming the next Rajah.

At one point Vyner had enough of the ‘Baron’ and fired him. MacBryan was subsequently banished from Sarawak for about four years.

During this time, he married a Malay lady, announced his conversion to Islam and even made a pilgrimage to Mecca. He had planned to make himself the Muslim ruler of the east.

MacBryan did not manage to do that but he did successfully make a return to Sarawak. By 1927, he was put in charge of Sarawak Gazette and eventually became Vyner’s secretary again.

Despite his best efforts, however, MacBryan was unable to seduce his way to the White Rajah’s throne.

But some reports claimed that he made sure the next heir apparent, Vyner’s nephew Anthony, would not make it to the throne either.

Another popular opinion was that the last Ranee was trying to push her eldest daughter, Leonora or her grandson Simon MacKay, to succeed the throne.

At the time, it was believed that Sylvia was plotting with MacBryan.

But on July 8, 1940, Sylvia wrote a letter to her brother in-law Captain Bertram Willes Dayrell Brooke (Anthony’s father) claiming her innocence.

“I happen to know more about the MacBryan plot than anyone. It began with MacBryan making violent love to Didi (Elizabeth, Vyner’s second daughter). I don’t think that Didi was more than fourteen at the time. But as you know MacBryan was determined to get into the family somehow. The whole thing has really grown from the evil seeds in MacBryan’s brain.”

Gerard MacBryan’s role in Sarawak’s cession to the British

But MacBryan’s biggest role yet in influencing Sarawak’s history was when Vyner appointed him to negotiate the terms of cession between Sarawak and the British government.

Local historian Ho Ah Chon stated in Sarawak Historical Events 1941-1945 that:

“After the war, Vyner sent out his private secretary to induce the leading Kuching Datus to sign letters in which they agreed to support any moves Vyner might think fit to make ‘in the interest of Sarawak’.”

According to reports, the letter never mentioned cession .

The community leaders signed the letters, not knowing the truth till few days later.

“One of the Datus, Datu Patinggi Abdillah, was furious when he discovered that they had been tricked, and he returned the $12,000 (all those who signed were given a large sum)- saying it was a bribe.”

And that private secretary was MacBryan.

Sylvia also wrote,“I think it can safely be said that if there had been no Gerard MacBryan there would have been no cession of Sarawak at that time — July 1946.”

When Vyner and Sylvia returned to Sarawak in 1946 to say their final farewell, the Baron was not there with them.
Sylvia stated,

“He had sworn he would see Vyner through the difficult period of Cession. After all, it was he who set the machinery in motion; who had coerced and corrupted the Malay Datus into signing papers they did not understand. And then he had simply vanished, leaving Vyner to face the music alone, to withstand the disapproval of his brother, and the shocked fury of his nephew.”

However according to Reece, this claim might not be true.

Reece stated,

“There is no way of verifying later accusations that MacBryan used trickery and even force to obtain the necessary signatures. But it is clear that he deliberately misrepresented Bertram and Anthony as having agreed to the cession.”

Nonetheless, the information retained and reproduced in a Malaysian secondary school History textbook for Form 3 was that of Gerard T. MacBryan using trickery to gain signatures from Council Negri members.

The Brooke family ceded Sarawak to the British government as a crown colony on July, 1 1946.

Life after Sarawak for Gerard MacBryan

By late 1949, there were reports of him losing his sanity. He was arrested for stealing peaches from a fruit barrow in London eventhough he had more than £40 in his pocket.

At one point, he also carried with him everywhere a mysterious black box which he said could blow up the world.

He occasionally checked himself into a mental institution in London.

Towards the end of his life, he was living in a cheap hotel in Hong Kong until he died in 1953.

Vyner believed MacBryan hanged himself although Sylvia believed MacBryan starved himself to death.

In her final mention of Gerard MacBryan in her book, the former Ranee stated, “…although he had thousands of dollars in the bank, the ‘Baron’, with his charmed and twisted dreams of powers, looked down-and-out, filthy and in rags. I never dared ask Vyner what he thought about the downfall of his friend.”

Carlsberg unveils mesmeRICEsing packaging with 4 new iconic designs

Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah & Sarawak with mesmeRICEsing Art by our Local Artists

SHAH ALAM, 16 April 2025 – In Sabah and Sarawak, rice is more than just sustenance, it is the heart of the harvest festival, a symbol of life, gratitude and unity. It carries the legacy of generations, from the dedication of farmers to traditions passed down over time, forming an unbreakable bond between the land and its people.

Carlsberg’s latest Sabah and Sarawak artist-edition packaging brings this rich heritage to life, showcasing stunning rice art that celebrates cultural pride.

Carlsberg Smooth Draught will feature these intricate rice art designs on its cans and bottles throughout the year, while, back by popular demand, Carlsberg Danish Pilsner joins the collection for a limited time in April and May.

Back for the 5th consecutive year, the artist-edition packaging reinforces Carlsberg’s commitment to honouring local traditions through design and craftsmanship.

Carlsberg Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah Sarawak
Check out these four mesmeRICEsing designs.

Featuring four mesmeRICEsing designs “By locals, For locals”, Sabahan artist Nelson Lip and Sarawakian artist T. Bagak have meticulously designed these stunning creations, showcasing Borneo’s most symbolic icons.

Each variant features two distinct designs, one inspired by Sabah and the other Sarawak, inspiring local pride in every sip.

Carlsberg Smooth Draught’s packaging brings Borneo’s essence to life, with Sabah’s design depicting the awe-inspiring Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s tallest peak, while Sarawak’s design features the regal Hornbill perched above a longhouse, a revered symbol of cultural heritage and good luck.

Carlsberg Danish Pilsner, on the other hand, embraces the region’s rich heritage with Sabah’s design highlighting the gentle Orangutan and the mystical Rafflesia, some of the world’s rarest sights.

The other design celebrates Sarawak’s cultural traditions with hypnotic rhythms of the Sape and the welcoming warmth of the traditional longhouse.

“The essence of Gawai and Kaamatan is deeply tied to the harvest and rice. Carlsberg honours that heritage, embracing the unity, gratitude, and celebration at the heart of these festivals. We’re thrilled to once again ‘Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah & Sarawak’ with a stronger focus on local pride as we collaborate with two talented local artists, whose designs beautifully capture the spirit of Sabah and Sarawak, making every celebration #BestWithCarlsberg,” said Olga Pulyaeva, Marketing Director of Carlsberg Malaysia.

From 15 to 18 May 2025, at Farley Kuching, consumers can experience the vibrant fusion of traditional and modern celebration at the annual Carls Harvest Pesta.

This four-day celebration will feature the finest brews together with captivating live performances, traditional music and dance performances by local artists.

Attendees can indulge in Bornean delights and fusion cuisines while immersing themselves in interactive experiences from crafting rice art bracelets and rice resin art to mixology workshops at the CarlsBar, with free Tuak Bombs served every two hours to keep the celebrations going.

Adding to the excitement, early birds will receive a free can of Carlsberg to welcome them to the festival.

And that’s not all, consumers can also get their hands on the collectable MesmeRICEsing plates, one celebrating the iconic symbols of Sabah and the other highlighting the essence of Sarawak via in-store promotions, while stocks last, and stand a chance to win Apple 16 Pros, 11 inch iPad Air or Apple Watch Series 10.

Visit https://bestwithcarlsberg.my/harvest to learn more and follow @CarlsbergMY on Facebook and Instagram for more information and stay tuned for the upcoming Carlsberg’s special Harvest Song Music Video.

This is one celebration you don’t want to miss, so grab a can or bottle, raise a toast, and #RaikanKebanggaanSabahSarawak with Carlsberg! Remember to always #CelebrateResponsibly, if you drink, please don’t drive!

Claudetown: This historically rich town is now known as what?

Marudi is a quiet town in Sarawak famous for its kueytiaw noodles.

But did you know this town was once called Claudetown (sometimes spelled as Claude Town) not Marudi?

It was named Claudetown after Claude Champion de Crespigny who was the Resident of Baram district.

Claudetown
Marudi is also famous for its Baram regatta.

Who was Claude Champion de Crespigny?

An initial Google search of Claude Champion de Crespigny will lead you to Wikipedia page describing a British soldier and polo player. (This de Crespigny, however, committed suicide in 1910 at the age of 37.)

Marudi’s de Crespigny was born in 1829 to Reverend Heaton Champion de Crespigny and his wife Caroline.

He joined the Royal Navy in 1844 and became a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain.

de Crespigny was part of the French nobility during the tumultuous period of the French Revolution, which forced many aristocrats to flee France due to the political unrest.

Like many French émigrés who fled revolutionary France, he eventually made his way to Southeast Asia.  On how did this Frenchman found his way to Sarawak, that remains unclear.

Regardless, the second White Rajah Charles Brooke appointed him as the Resident of the Fourth Division (Baram and Trusan) in 1883.

Before that, he was the Resident of the Third Division (Rejang, Oya, Mukah, Matu and Bintulu).

His administration was made up of two junior officers, 30 rangers and a few native police officers.

In 1882, de Crespigny recorded in his diary that there were 18 hand-dug oil wells at the mouth of Miri river.

He found out about this when he noticed that the locals mixed the oil with resin to caulk their boats.

Unfortunately, the Brooke government didn’t put more thought to this observation until de Crespigny’s successor Charles Hose came along.

Due to this, Hose is more widely known as the important figure in discovery of oil in Sarawak.

de Crespigny died on Dec 28, 1884.

Marudi
The town is also home to the famous kueytiaw Marudi.

Claudetown in the 1880s

Looking back into the town history, the first foundation of Claudetown was laid on July 19, 1882.

In 1885, Charles Brooke visited Claudetown and it already had 45 attap shophouses.

The population throughout the whole of Baram area back then was mainly made up of the Kayan, Kenyah, Kelabit, Penan, Berawan, Kiput, Sebop, and Seping.

The first group of Chinese immigrants who arrived in town were the Hokkien.

They came down from Kuching in 1882 to trade.

By 1888, there were 300 Hokkiens and Teochews living in Claudetown.

Then in 1905, a Malay named Dato Sharif Hamid from Simanggang (known today as Sri Aman) introduced rubber planting in the area. Now, there is a primary school SK Dato Sharif Hamid named after him.

From Claudetown to Marudi

So why did Claudetown change its name to Marudi?

According to Miri’s official government website, it was later renamed to Marudi after a small river flowing through the town.

But local historian Chang Pat Foh had a more amusing story behind the name Marudi.

After the discovery of oil in Miri, the administrative centre of the Fourth Division was relocated from Claudetown to Miri.

Miri people back then used to tease those from Claudetown in the Iban language, “Malu dek, Kubu Claudetown udah pindah ngagai Miri.” (How embarassing for you, your fort has been moved to Miri).

Then, slowly people started to call the town “Malu dek” which eventually became Marudi.

Whether is there any truth in this playful story, that will remain a mystery for all of us.

6 nature attractions near Kuching city for you to discover

So you are now in Kuching city and you are looking for an accessible, green place to go to.

Fret not, here are the six nature attractions near Kuching city you visit and enjoy a day out with Mother Nature.

1. Santubong National Park

Kuching city
Mount Santubong.

Santubong National Park is about 40 minutes drive from Kuching city.

Here visitors can climb to the top of Mount Santubong, take a dip in the waterfall or simply enjoy the rainforest.

There is no accommodation at the national park but there are handful of resorts and homestays nearby.

2. Kubah National Park and Matang Wildlife Centre

Come and explore Kubah Waterfall.
Come and explore Kubah Waterfall.

Kubah National Park is situated about 22km from Kuching city.

It is rich in floras and is a scientifically important site for palm trees.

One 1992 study by Katherine Pearce found that there are 86 species of palm trees in the area, 16 of them only found in Borneo.

You can choose to climb to the top of Mount Serapi or go for trekking in search of waterfall at Kubah.

Next to Kubah is Matang Wildlife Centre where endangered species such as orang utans are rehabilitated and released into the forest.

Beside saying ‘hi’ to the orang utans, visitors can also go for jungle trekking at one of the four trails here.

3. Sama Jaya Nature Reserve

Imagine New York’s Central Park but a thousand times smaller. (Okay, it’s only approximately eight times smaller. New York’s Central Park covers 341 hectares, while Sama Jaya Nature reserve spans 38.)

Much like Central Park, however, Sama Jaya is a small patch of forest in the middle of an urban area located at Stutong.

Just a 10-minute drive from Kuching City centre, the nature reserve is famous among joggers as it offers two jogging tracks at 870 metres and 1600 metres respectively.

As the jogging tracks wind through this urban jungle, do not be surprised if you spot some local wildlife.

According to Sarawak Forestry website, here you can find squirrels, shrew, fruit bars, frogs, lizards and monkeys.

Other perks this reserve offers is the Hiroshima-Sarawak Friendship Garden, forest biology museum and an ethno-botanical garden.

4. Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nature Reserves

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Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nature Reserves are located at Bau bazaar, just half an hour’s drive from Kuching city.

The two caves are located 8km from each other.

There are plankwalks available for visitors to explore the caves.

Keep your eyes open to spot various species of bats, squirrels and birds at these nature reserves.

5. Semenggoh Nature Reserve

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Here is another great place to visit the orang utan. It has a wildlife centre for the rehabilitation of rescued orang utan.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve is 20km away from Kuching.

The best time to visit Semenggoh is during feeding times. It usually takes place between 9 to 10am and between 3 to 3.30pm.

6. Bako National Park

Bako
Bako National Park, one of tourists favourite spot to visit while in Kuching city.

Sarawak’s oldest national park, Bako National Park requires a boat-ride to visit but is still accessible from Kuching city.

It is a nature lovers’ paradise where visitors can opt for bird watching, beach-strolling or jungle trekking.

It takes about 45 minutes from Kuching to Bako market. From there, it takes another 20-minute boat ride to reach the park.

Here you can spot proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaque monkeys and bearded pigs roaming around the park.

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Charles Hose and his love affair with Sarawak

Fort Hose Marudi 1
A plaque at Fort Hose marking the date it was opened in Marudi.

Fort Hose in Marudi was named after Charles Hose, the then Resident of Baram.

Born in 1863 in Hertfordshire, he was the son of clergyman Thomas Charles Hose.

As a young man, he continued his study at Cambridge University but never completed his degree.

With the help of his uncle, George Frederick Hose, the bishop of Singapore, Sarawak and Labuan, Hose landed a job in the Sarawak civil service.

The fort – now officially renamed and repurposed as the Baram Regional Museum –  is a significant remnant of the Brooke era in Sarawak which ended about 80 years ago.

Apart from his work as a British administrator, Hose contributed a great deal to Sarawak as a zoologist and ethnologist.

Charles Hose and his love for nature

Hose lived in Sarawak for 24 years and spent his free time researching natural history and ethnography.

He enjoyed exploring the rainforest and became an avid collector of plants and animals.

His collection can be found in the British Museum and the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge.

An amateur photographer, Hose also captured photos showcasing people and scenery of Sarawak.

To commemorate his work as a zoologist, several species were named after him including Hose’s frog (Odorrana hosii), Hose’s tree frog (Philautus hosii), Hose’s palm civet (Diplogale hosei) and many more.

Fort Hose Marudi 2
Some of the photographs taken by Charles Hose himself displayed at Baram Regional Museum.

Charles Hose and the birth of Baram Regatta

During the Brooke administration, fights among tribes were rampant in the Baram region.

Hose decided to hold a peace conferenceat his fort in April 1899 which led to the birth of the first Baram Regatta.

The regatta, a longboat competition among the tribes, is still continued to this day. Only now it includes other activities such as cultural performances, beauty pageants and so much more.

After his 18-year service in Marudi, he was promoted to serve the supreme council of Sibu.

There, he also helped in peace negotiations between Iban rebels in 1904 and warring Ibans from the Rajang and Batang Lupar in 1907.

Charles Hose and the Kelabit people

According to former headmaster and author Sagau Batubala, the name Kelabit was a misnomer Hose had given to the people living in the highlands south of Mount Murud.

As Resident, part of his responsibilities included listing down all the races living in Baram.

When a group of villagers paid a courtesy call to the newly appointed Resident in his office at Fort Hose in 1901, Hose asked them where they were from, which leader of the group answered “Pa’ Labid”, the name of their village.

Dutifully, he then asked them what their races were, to which the leader answered “Orang Pa’ Labid.”

Hose was believed to have misheard the word ‘Pa’ Labid’, writing it down in his record book as ‘Kalabit’.

From that moment on, Kalabit became the race name for the ethnic community we now know as Kelabit.

A side view of Fort Hose.
After being razed to the ground, Fort Hose was rebuilt according its original dimensions. The fortress as it stands today.

Charles Hose and the discovery of oil in Miri

Hose is cited by Rasoul Sorkhabi in GEOExpro, a petroleum geoscience magazine, to have played a significant role in the discovery of oil in Miri.

After his appointment as the Resident of Baram, Hose started mapping oil seeps in and around Miri.

He reportedly gave his findings to the Brooke government, but an English consultant geologist said an oil exploration in Sarawak was a no-go because of its poor logistical conditions.

Hose then retired and returned to England where he whosed his map of oil seeps to Charles Brooke.

The late Rajah gave his permission to continue the exploration, so Hose went to discuss the idea with Anglo-Saxon Petroleum, a part of the Royal Dutch/Shell Group.

The meeting was a success and Charles later signed the first Sarawak Oil Mining Lease in 1909.

Eventually due to the rapid oil discovery activity, the Resident’s Office was moved from Marudi to Miri in 1912.

A portrait sketch of Charles Hose. Credit: Public Domain.
A sketch portrait of Charles Hose. Credit: Public Domain.

Charles Hose and his many publications

Hose spent his retirement in Norfolk writing about Sarawak and its people.

Some of his significant publications are ‘The Pagan Tribes of Borneo’ (1912), ‘Natural Man’ (1926), and his memoir ‘Fifty Years of Romance and Research, or, a Jungle-Wallah at Large’ (1927).

He died at the Hutton Nursing Home in 1929.

Fort Sylvia: 3 things to know about the charming historical building of Kapit

If you happen to be cruising down Sarawak’s longest river, the Batang Rajang and find yourself in Kapit town, your stay would not be complete without a visit to Fort Sylvia.

Built in 1880, Fort Sylvia is one of the most historical sites in Sarawak. It may be hard to visit if you are a casual tourist as the town of Kapit itself is only accessible by two-hour expressboat ride from Sibu, but you can see the impressive belian fort as soon as you exit the Kapit Passengers Terminal.

It used to be called Kapit Fort or Kubu Kapit until 1925 when it was named after Ranee Sylvia Brooke, wife to the third White Rajah, Charles Vyner Brooke.

Under the Brooke administration, the fort was used as an administrative centre for the Upper Rejang area. Back then, the Sarawak Rangers, a para-military force were also stationed at the fort.

Over the years, the fort also housed the District Office, District Courthouse and later the Resident’s Office in 1973.

In May 1997, the Tun Jugah Foundation was given the responsibility to manage the fort, turning it into a museum.

Fort Sylvia Kapit (11)
Fort Sylvia, Kapit.

Here are 3 things to know about Fort Sylvia:

1. It was where 1924 Peace-making Ceremony took place

History has it that there were conflicts between the Iban and the Orang Ulu during Charles Brooke’s reign due to the Iban migration upriver in the Rajang River basin.

Headhunting was rampant. There were Ibans who openly revolted against the Rajah’s rule prohibiting them to migrate into selected rivers in the area.

Peace was slowly restored after 1919 when Charles Brooke launched an expedition in the area to eliminate these rebels.

Finally in 1924, they held a peace-making ceremony to commemorate the end of the tribal conflicts. A preliminary peace-making ceremony had been held the evening before on Nov 15 at Long Nawang, North Kalimantan, where a group of Kenyahs performed a war dance for the attendees.

The ceremony at Fort Sylvia took place on Nov 16 between the Kayans, Kenyahs and Kajangs of the Apo Kayan and Balui river with the Ibans of Batang Rajang and Batang Ai.

The ceremony started with the killing of one pig and the sprinkling of the pig’s blood. Some of the tribe leaders performed prayers during the ceremony which ended with the presentation of ancient jars and gongs to each of the tribe leaders from Charles Brooke.

Rajah Vyner Brooke gave this jar to Temenggong Koh Jubang as a token of peace during the peace-making ceremony.
Rajah Vyner Brooke gave this jar to Temenggong Koh Jubang as a token of peace during the peace-making ceremony.

Today, there is a small memorial located in front of the fort to mark the event.

It reads: “This Stone is to commemorate the Peace-making Ceremony between the Kayan, Kenyah and Kajang of the Apoh Kayan and the Balui River; and the Iban of Batang Rejang and Batang Ai head-waters, on  16 November 1924.”

A memorial stone to commemorate the 1924 peace-making ceremony.
A memorial to commemorate the 1924 peace-making ceremony.

2. To learn about one of the world’s largest amber deposits

A visit to Fort Sylvia will teach visitors the history about one of Sarawak’s valuable yet underrated natural resources – amber.

One of the world’s largest amber deposits was discovered in the Merit-Pila Coal Field along the Batang Rajang.

Geologists also found the largest piece of amber in the world in this area. Even more surprising is the age of the amber as it is estimated to be approximately 20 million years old.

The colours of amber vary from black to white and sometimes with shades of orange, red, yellow and brown.

Visitors can admire a small collection of amber carvings by local artist Kojan Kabeng from Punan Bah in one of the exhibits at Fort Sylvia.

Amber
Amber carvings by Kojan Kabeng.

3. And of course to learn about Kapit and its rich history

Some of the weaving materials to make pua kumbu displayed.
Some of the weaving materials to make pua kumbu on display.

The museum also depicts the history of Kapit through old photos of its community leaders as well as a selection of Iban costumes and textiles.

One of Tun Jugah Foundation’s objectives is to promote Iban traditional weaving. As such, the fort also displays weaving tools and raw materials for making pua kumbu.

A view of Batang Rajang from the first floor of Fort Sylvia.
A view of Batang Rajang from the first floor of Fort Sylvia.

Visit Tun Jugah Foundation for more information about Fort Sylvia.

Read other articles about forts in Sarawak here:

A visit to Fort Hose, Marudi, Sarawak

Lawatan ke Kubu Hose di Marudi

5 Sarawakian ghost stories you’ve probably never heard of

Everybody loves ghost stories, especially when they’re familiar with the places where they allegedly happened.

While Peninsular Malaysia is host to infamous haunted sites like Highland Towers, Karak Highway and Villa Nabila, we have our own share of spooky tales here in the Land of the Hornbills.

Here are some Sarawakian ghost stories that you’ve probably never heard of:

1. A store in Miri where shoes fly

If you are working as a retailer at one of the shopping malls in Miri, you might have heard this story.

It seemed like any other day for the staff of a shoe store as they were opening up shop, until they saw that shoes were scattered all over the place as if they had been thrown about.

The owner understandably turned to the CCTV recording to check what had happened, and to everybody’s surprise, they didn’t find the culprit, instead they saw the shoes fly off the rack all by themselves.

However, the existence and legitimacy of the CCTV recording is continuously the subject of debate in online forums.

2. A haunted hotel in Bintulu

Google-search ‘haunted hotel in Bintulu’ and you’ll find two accounts of the same haunting… which goes to show what happens when you put bloggers in a ghostly situation.

Their experiences have the perfect ingredients for a ghost story – unexplained banging on the window, sobbing sounds, being assigned a haunted room and to show it wasn’t all a dream – scratch marks on their backs.

One of the bloggers also happens to be a comic blogger.

Check out their stories here and here.

3.The tale of Janet and Satok Bridge

This is one of Sarawakian ghost stories perhaps only known among Kuchingites.

The story goes that in the 1960s while Satok bridge was still in its early stages of construction, women were going missing.

According to some myths, human sacrifices – specifically, their heads – are needed to reinforce the pillars of a bridge, and like most human sacrifices around the world, the demand is for young virgins.

Janet, believed to be a young Chinese nurse, fit the bill and when her headless body was found in a culvert, people believed that she had become one of those sacrifices.

Her parents buried her in a red dress and red shoes so that she could return as a spirit and exact her vengeance upon her killers. Just like Megan Fox’s character in Jennifer’s Body (2009), Janet is said to be roaming around Kuching in a red dress, hitching rides from unsuspecting motorcyclists or taking ferry rides across the Sarawak river.

4. The now-demolished wooden house in Krokop

There’s no bloodshed in this story, only an account of people sleeping at an empty haunted house in Krokop on a dare. The next morning they found themselves – and their belongings –  outside the house. So were they sleepwalking or were they moved outside by unseen forces?

Other accounts say that the windows of this house have never been left half-opened or half-closed, but that they’ve only ever been wide open or tightly closed.

The house has since been demolished, leaving this a mystery for the ages.

5. A haunted beach resort in Santubong

If you are Sarawakian, or have been here long enough, you’ll know that there are various accounts of haunted resorts in Santubong.

According to one account, you might be able to see a shadowy figure outside your window even though you are on the 12th floor. This story, however, does raise a few questions as most of the resorts in Santubong are four-storeys high at most.

Additionally, one story goes that you might be able to see a mythical creature scaring the wits out of you from on top of a coconut tree.

5 Sarawakian ghost stories you've probably never heard of
5 Sarawakian ghost stories you’ve probably never heard of

Do you have any Sarawakian ghost stories to share? Tell us your stories in the comment box.

Fort Alice: 10 things you might not know about this important historical landmark

Located in Sri Aman, Fort Alice is a building constructed entirely of belian timber overlooking the famous Batang Lupar River.

It was built after the victory of second White Rajah of Sarawak Charles Brooke over Iban warrior and chieftain, Rentap.

The historical building was abandoned for a few years until it was restored and reopened as the Sri Aman Heritage Museum on Apr 18, 2015.

Named after Margaret Alice Lili de Windt, Charles’s wife, the rectangular building is equipped with cannons, open courtyard, drawbridge and lookout tower.

Here are 10 things you might not know about For Alice and its colourful history:

1. The original structure was made from materials of another fort.

It is widely understood that the fort was originally built in 1864. However, most of its structure came from Fort James that was built in 1849 further upriver at Skrang.

In 1864, Fort James was dismantled and a good deal of the materials was transferred to Sri Aman where it was re-erected.

At first, people just referred it as Simanggang Fort, until Ranee Margaret came to Sarawak in 1870 and then it was named Fort Alice after her middle name.

2. The reasons why Fort James was dismantled and Fort Alice was built.

After Fort James was built at Skrang, the Brooke government thought that a town would in time develop around it.

However, they found that the site was unsuitable since it was at lowland and liable to flood.

Hence, they decided to move the fort to Simanggang where it was re-erected on a small hill.

Plus the new location was located next to a river, an important factor for a fort site in the olden days.

Scenic view from the fort overlooking theLupar River
Scenic view from the fort overlooking the Lupar River
3.Ranee Margaret’s unforgettable first visit to Fort Alice.

The late ranee had an unforgettable experience when she first visited Fort Alice. To welcome her, the local Ibans performed the ngajat dance in her honour.

But they used real heads as part of their performance. Margaret reportedly rushed to her room where she fainted and had to be excused for the rest of the evening.

4. James Brooke’s godson was Simanggang’s first resident, stationed at Fort Alice.

Known as Tuan Bongsu (because he was the youngest of Charles’ siblings), Henry Stuart Johnson was the first one to be in charge of Fort Alice from 1864 to 1869.

Then the first White Rajah’s godson James Brooke Cruikshank was appointed as the first Resident of Simanggang in 1869.

According to W.J. Chater in The Sarawak Gazette (January 31, 1965), Cruikshank created a great impression among the Ibans in the area when he was the resident.

After he was transferred to Sibu, many of the locals even tried to take their court cases to him there.

5. Vyner Brooke was first stationed at Fort Alice when he first started working in Sarawak.

Besides that, the fort was also where the third White Rajah Vyner Brooke first served as a cadet government officer.

He was just 17 when he first started working there under Demetrius James Sandford Bailey in 1891.

6. The disastrous Cholera Expedition started at Fort Alice.

Fort Alice was the starting point where the infamous Cholera Expedition happened in June, 1902.

The punitive expedition down the Batang Lupar had one-fifth of the 10,000 recruited men to fight against Iban rebels died of Cholera.

The fort was refurbished in 2015 and turned into a heritage museum
The fort was refurbished in 2015 and turned into a heritage museum
7. The second White Rajah Charles Brooke actually wanted to be buried there.

It is said that Charles had a soft spot for Simanggang and used to send all his best officers there.

Chater wrote, “He directed it personally from 1854 to 1904 when he handed over its affairs to his son who later became the third Rajah. For this reason, there were no First Class Residents in the Second Division during the time of the second Rajah. On his rare visits to Simanggang in later years he loved nothing better than to sit on a bench on the hill near the fort and admire the scenery. ‘This’, he would say, ‘is the real Sarawak.’ He had, also always expressed a wish to be buried there as he died in England during first World War (1917) this which could not be fulfilled.”

8. Famous writer W. Somerset Maugham spent some times in Fort Alice way back in 1921.

Maugham stayed for a few days at Fort Alice in 1921 and it became his muse for some of the scenes in his short stories.

Rumours had it at the fort that those who were mentioned in Maugham’s stories pretended to be angry while those who were not mentioned were jealous.

When Maugham wanted to visit Sarawak for the second time in 1930, however, the Rajah politely declined his request telling him that it would not be convenient.

9. The fort had many functions in the olden days.

In the fort’s early days, the building was used as the officer’s quarters, government offices, courthouse and police station all at the same time.

When new building started to be constructed, these departments started to move out from the fort leaving it empty.

The fort is open to public
Fort Alice
10. There was an old tradition at the fort which is now no longer exists and was forgotten for a time.

When it was still used as a police station and Resident’s quarters, there was an interesting old tradition being practised there.

Every day at 8 pm when the Resident would have his dinner, there would be an evening call. Then, the drawbridge or steps were drawn up for the night.

After the policeman on duty struck up the eight o’clock gong, he would call out in Iban:

“Oh Hai! Oh Hai! Oh Hai!
Jam diatu pukul lapan,
Tangga udah ditarit,
Pintu udah ditambit,
Orang ari ulu,
Orang ari ili, nadai tau niki kubu lagi.”

The English translation is,

“Oh Hai! Oh Hai! Oh Hai!
The time is now 8 o’clock,
The steps have been drawn up,
The door is closed,
People from upriver,
People from downriver,
Are not allowed to come up to the fort anymore.”

It would be interesting that this tradition is continued to today with a loudspeaker announcing this call every 8 pm from the museum.

Mount Serapi: 5 reasons why you seriously need to climb this scenic mountain

Mount Serapi located at Kubah National Park is one of the two mountains that can be easily spotted from Kuching city.

Together with Mount Selang and Mount Sendok, they make the three summits of the Matang Range.

Famous among locals and foreigners alike, Kubah National Park offers jungle trails for trekkers and waterfalls to dip in.

It offers six trails for visitors to explore including a path leading up to the summit of Mount Serapi.

If you are looking to strike “climb a mountain” off your bucket list, Mount Serapi is a good place to start.

Mount Serapi
The view as far as the eyes can see from the top of Mount Serapi.

Even if you have no interest in hiking or are ‘allergic’ to nature, here are some reasons why you should consider climbing Mount Serapi at least once in your life:

1. It is accessible from Kuching!

Mount Serapi.
You can easily spot this communication tower resting on top of Mount Serapi from Kuching.

Kubah National Park is located 20 km from Kuching city, very accessible indeed.

Thanks to its distance, it is famous among day trippers. However, the park offers lodging too if you are planning to stay overnight.

Even if it is near Kuching, plan your ascent as early as you can. Then you can avoid the afternoon heat and take your time on your climb.

2. Your shoes won’t get muddy.

Mount Serapi
A tarred road leads all the way up to the summit.

The best part about climbing to the top of Mount Serapi is *drum roll please* there is a tarred road leading all the way up to the top!

So you can ditch wearing your expensive hiking footwear and even the affordable adidas kampung and take your usual running shoes.

Even so, it is crucial to invest in a pair of good shoes that fit perfectly.

A pair of loosely fitted shoes will hurt when you are descending from the summit; your feet will be sliding forwards and your toes repeatedly hitting the inner part of your shoes. And yes, I’m speaking from personal experience.

3. It only takes less than 4 hours to reach the top

It takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.
It’s a quick trek up, but has lots of rest stops along the way.

Depending on your stamina, it takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.

Some seasonal runners and trekkers can finish the round up trip even in five hours.

There are plenty of rest stops along the way, so take your time.

4. You can listen to the sound of nature

Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.
Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.

You can always enjoy the sounds of cicadas, frogs, birds and insects along your way to the top.

Or swing by at the frog pond and listen to the world’s most beautiful sound.

In 2014, nature recordist Marc Anderson won a competition sponsored by The Sound Agency with a recording he took at Kubah National Park’s frog pond.

The recording won the Most Beautiful Sound in the World.

If you are familiar with birds’ call, Kubah is also one of the best places in Kuching where you can hear them.

Among the birds highlighted by Sarawak Tourism Board found here in Kubah are Blue-banded Pitta, Red-naped Trogan, Rufous-backed Kingfisher and many more.

For visiting birders out there, remember to bring your binoculars.

5. Do it for the view!

Last but definitely not least, climb up to the summit of Mount Serapi for the view.

There is a viewing platform for climbers to enjoy the scenic view of Kuching, Mount Santubong and the coastline of Southwest Sarawak.

If you are good at geography, perhaps you can spot which mountain peaks mark the border with Indonesia.

Mount Santubong too offers great view from on top but the climb to the top is not for all.

Mount Gading in Lundu is another option for climbers. Sadly, there is no views from the top, only a sign saying you have reached the summit.

The best option for an achievable climb and comes with a great view near Kuching, choose Mount Serapi instead.

Read more:

3 easy trails in Bako National Park you must visit

Essential Packing Guide for Traveling to Sarawak

Sarawak is a lovely place to visit and we are not saying this because we are Sarawakians.

We have a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Gunung Mulu National Park.

Our capital city of Kuching is a member of UNESCO’s Creative CIties Network under the field of gastronomy.

Plus, the Niah Cave in Miri is the oldest recorded human settlement in East Malaysia dating back to more than 40,000 years ago.

If you are planning to visit, here is a comprehensive packing guide on what to bring when traveling to Sarawak:

1.Lightweight Clothing

Generally, bring clothing that is made of breathable fabrics.

Opt for cotton, linen, or moisture-wicking materials to stay cool and comfortable in the tropical weather.

If you are planning to swim, pack at least two swimsuits so you always have a dry one available.

You might want to bring a light jacket or something to stay warm in an air-conditioned place. Sarawak is generally hot and humid; why do you need to bring one?

Personally, we have seen a tourist pleading to a bus driver to increase the temperature when travelling from Bintulu to Kuching. She was freezing due to the air-conditioner. Beware, public transports such as ferry and bus can be unapologetically cold sometimes.

2.Sun Protection

Sunscreen is definitely a must in your packing list to Sarawak.

Bring a high SPF sunscreen, at least SPF 30.

Do not forget to reapply frequently especially if you’ll be in and out of water.

If you are not sure on what type of sunscreen to choose, watch this Youtube video from Doctorly.

It has all kinds of recommended sunscreens such as best mineral sunscreen, best chemical sunscreens and best Korean sunscreens.

For more protection against the sun, wear sunglasses and hat when you are out exploring.

3.Umbrella or raincoat

After preparing yourself against the sun, now you need to prepare against the rain.

A small, folded umbrella is good if you are sightseeing around town area.

However, a raincoat is a must if you are planning to do some jungle trekking.

Speaking of rain, you might want to bring a waterproof bag. There is no need to buy 5L bag, maybe just a small one to protect your important belongings such as phone and wallet.

4.Insect Repellent

Your visit to Sarawak incomplete without experiencing the beautiful nature of Borneo.

With that being said, pack up some mosquito repellent with DEET or another effective ingredient.

Take note that mosquito repellents from the local brands are mostly contained lemongrass.

While lemongrass was found not to be as effective compared to DEET, many people are too sensitive to this chemical to use it as a repellent.

Lemongrass on the other hand is a generally safe and natural ingredient. You just need to get used with the smell.

5.Practical Footwear

If you are keeping your packing list to the bare minimum, you only need two types of footwear.

First of all, a pair of sandals or flip-flops that are perfect for the beach and casual outings.

Secondly, a pair of comfortable walking Shoes for you to wear during sightseeing and even hiking.

Let say that for some reason that you do not have the right shoes to trek.

Just walk in the shoes of some locals (literally) and buy yourself a pair of adidas kampung.

They might not be that comfortable but they are cheap and practical.

6.Reusable Water Bottle

Stay hydrated in this hot and humid climate of Sarawak by bringing along a reusable water bottle.

Yes, drinking and mineral bottles are very affordable here.

But do your part in reducing plastic waste by bringing your own bottle.

If you are wondering on where you can refill your water for free especially at shopping malls, KajoMag has a trick for you.

Look for a nursing or baby room as it usually comes with a water dispenser.

7.Medications

If you are on prescribed medication, bring enough for the duration of your trip in Sarawak.

However, it doesn’t hurt to bring a little extra.

Some basic first aid kit including band-aids and antiseptic cream do not take that much space in your luggage, you might consider to bring some.

Just in case of diarrhea or dehydration from the tropical heat, throw in some hydration salts.

Do take note that OTC medicines are affordable in Malaysia. However in order to save your time from walking around looking for pharmacy or convenient store, might as well bring your own nonprescription medicine from home.

8.Travel Adapter and other electronics

To ensure that you can charge your devices while in Sarawak, do not forget to bring a travel adaptor.

For Malaysia, the associated plug type is G. It is the plug that has three rectangular pins in a triangular pattern.

Once your devices such as camera and phone are fully charged, now you are ready to capture the beautiful landscape of Sarawak.

9.Cash and card

Convert your cash into ringgits for small purchases.

As for credit card, Visa and Master are widely accepted by retailers and restaurants but not Amex.

Most cash registries will clearly state whether they can accept card or cash only.

When comes to paying using only phone, the most common app payment in Sarawak is S Pay Global.

If you are interested of using it, check out the terms and conditions here.

10.Toiletries and personal hygiene products

It is best to bring your own travel-sized toiletries with brands of your preference. This is because you might not find your usual brands of personal hygiene products.

Ladies, Malaysian women generally use menstrual pads instead of tampons. Hence, finding tampon here might not as easy as looking menstrual pads.

pexels timur weber 9186183 1
Photo by Timur Weber

Overall, Sarawak is a pretty chill and relax place for foreigners to visit.

Even if you are a light packer, you can easily buy things that you need in the local stores.

By packing thoughtfully and preparing well for your trip, you’ll be well-equipped to enjoy every moment of your adventure in Sarawak.

In the end of the day, you just need to let the laid-back vibes of Sarawak captivate you.

Enjoy your trip!

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