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Baroness Angela Burdett-Coutts and James Brooke: Was there something more it seems?

Baroness Angela Burdett-Coutts might be an unfamiliar name today, but about a hundred years ago she was the “richest heiress in England”.

King Edward VII even reportedly described her as “the most remarkable woman in the kingdom”, only second to his mother, Queen Victoria.

Born on April 21, 1814, Burdett-Coutts became one of the wealthiest women in England in 1837 when she inherited her grandfather’s fortune of around £1.8 million (approximately £196 mln in 2018).

Burdett-Coutts was in love with James Brooke

Burdett-Coutts (left) allegedly was in love with James Brooke (right). Credits: CCO.
Burdett-Coutts (left) allegedly was in love with James Brooke (right). Credits: CCO.

Many historians believe Burdett-Coutts was in love with the first White Rajah of Sarawak.

When James Brooke first established the Kingdom of Sarawak, he needed money to develop it. He considered many options, including selling the country to Belgium.

At the same time, Brooke also wanted his kingdom to be protected. Even when he was in England, the White Rajah constantly worked on making connections with powerful people in the country.

His networking efforts landed him in a levee at the palace as a guest of Queen Victoria.

According to writer Robert Payne in The White Rajahs of Sarawak, this was when Brooke caught the attention of Burdett-Coutts. He wrote:

“Born to great wealth, she was determined to use her money as a weapon to advance her humanitarian ideas, and when the Rajah spoke to her about the Dyaks and Malays plagued by their feudal Sultans and by Ilanun pirates, still living in the Middle Ages, her heart went out to them.”

According to Payne, Brooke skipped out the fact that the Dayaks were headhunters back then.

It seemed to work. In 1859, Burdett-Coutts and Brooke exchanged many letters. These letters were later published in a book in 1935.

In Brooke’s letter to Burdett-Coutts, he asked about her health and how she took care of herself. As he knew the baroness loved riddles, he made riddles for her in his letters.

Their correspondence lasted almost nine years till Brooke died.

Burdett-Coutts and Sarawak

Thanks to Burdett-Coutts, Sarawak had money to spend. One of the kingdom’s expenditures included a ship which Brooke named ‘Rainbow’ after the baroness.

This was, according to Payne, to “honour the beauty of Miss Burdett-Coutts, the goddess of the Dayaks, and the calm following a storm”.

Brooke trusted her so much that he willed Sarawak to Burdett-Coutts at one point. He wrote in his will:

“I do hereby nominate and appoint her to be my true and lawful successor in the dignity and office of the Rajah of Sarawak now vested in me, to be held by her, the said Angela Burdett-Coutts, as a public trust for the good of the people.”

But Brooke long lived long enough to change his will.

Nevertheless, there is a fort in Mukah called Fort Burdett, which was named after her.

What happened to Burdett-Coutts and James Brooke

With all those letters and evenings spent together, why didn’t they get married?

According to British historian Owen Rutter this was because Brooke was sexually incapacitated.

British journalist Henry Nevinson pointed it out in an article published in The Spectator on April 5, 1935.

“He (Rutter) tells us that in storming Burmese stockade in 1825 James Brooke received a wound that rendered him incapable of marriage in the physical sense, and so he carefully avoided any approach to the subject.”

Of course, many claimed that this was not true.

Nonetheless she did everything she possibly could to help Brooke and his Sarawak, a country she herself never set foot on.

As Nevinson wrote:

“She forwarded all his schemes; she advanced vast loans for his people, she presented him with ships to cruise among the islands and stamp out rebellion among the Dayak headhunters and other savages.

“Whatever the mese, she did not marry till late in life, many years after her Rajah had died. She is to be regarded, I think, as a final sacrifice to the idol of Victorian prudery, and it was the Rajah who sacrificed her.”

Melanau tall house: 3 things you need to know about this important architectural history

Unlike other traditional houses in Sarawak, the Melanau tall house was built distinctively higher.

However similar to longhouses of other ethnic groups such as Iban and Kayan, this Melanau traditional house can accommodate up to 50 families.

The Melanau tall house at Sarawak Cultural Village is one of the few traditional houses left as the rest have been abandoned or demolished.
The Melanau tall house at Sarawak Cultural Village is one of the few traditional houses left as the rest have been abandoned or demolished.

Besides the one in Sarawak Cultural Village, it is difficult to find a traditional Melanau tall house in the state. Most of the houses in Melanau villages now are built individually on stilts, and the designs are believed to be inspired by houses in the Malay community.

Here are 3 things to know about the architectural heritage of a Melanau tall house:

1.They are built very tall for a lot of reasons.

Traditionally, a Melanau tall house is built about 10 to 40 feet above the ground. For this, the Melanau have to thank the Filipinos for inspiring the need for this design.

As the Melanau people lived mostly along the coastal region, particularly near the mouth of the Rajang river, they were often attacked by pirates from the Southern Philippines in the olden days. To protect themselves, the Melanau built tall houses and even fortified them with cannons.

Besides the pirates, the tall houses also protect the Melanau people during tribal wars against the Ibans.
The Brooke authority also had some scuffles with the Melanau on one point when the former accused the latter for harbouring pirates.

Furthermore according to author Peter Metcalf in The Life of the Longhouse: An Archaeology of Ethnicity, a house raised on stilts serves many advantages.

“It escapes the mud below; it allows disposal of kitchen waste, soon cleaned up by free-roaming chickens and pigs; and it greatly improves ventilation.”

Particularly in Borneo, an elevated building like a Melanau tall house and a Bidayuh baruk would reduce the number of insects in your home.

2. The floor of a Melanau tall house was designed for defensive and offensive purposes.

Besides the height advantage, the floor of a Melanau tall house also serves to defend the community.
The flooring of the main level of the tall house are arranged in a crisscross pattern with small gaps in between.

When there was an attack, the flooring made it hard for the enemies to pierce their sharp weapons through the floor. As for the Melanau, they would pour hot, boiling water on their enemies.

The columns, which are the main structure of the building, are typically made from belian while the wall and flooring structures are made from nibong.

Meanwhile for the roof, they used sago leaves, which also happen to be the main economical source for the Melanau people.

The rungs on every staircase in a Melanau tall house were built in odd numbers. This is because they believed that by doing so it could bring wealth and good health to the household members.

Melanau tall house: 3 things you need to know about this important architectural history
The rung of a ladder in a Melanau tall house has odd numbers because they believed it would bring them luck.
3.The living arrangement in a Melanau tall house.
Melanau tall house: 3 things you need to know about this important architectural history
A traditional Melanau house comprises of few levels.

According to research done by Universiti Sains Malaysia, gender and marital status affected the organisation of the space in a Melanau tall house.

Every tall house was built with a few levels and each level had multiple bedrooms.

Only unmarried men occupied bedrooms located aon the first floor while married couples and unmarried women had their bedrooms on the upper level.

The upper level also houses the family’s ceremonial items and assets.

Curious visitors still can see some of Melanau artifacts at Sarawak Cultural Village’s tall house.

Melanau tall house: 3 things you need to know about this important architectural history
Some of the ceremonial items displayed at Sarawak Cultural Village’s tall house.

The Japanese Building of Kuching: What you need to know about this historical landmark

Do you know there is a Japanese building in Kuching?

When the Japanese forces first landed in Miri on Dec 16, 1941, they had successfully captured Kuching by Christmas day.

For over three years, the Japanese occupied Sarawak where the Imperial Forces introduced Japanisation, requiring the locals to learn Japanese language and customs.

Despite these efforts, only a few remnants of the Japanese occupation can still be seen to this day in Kuching.

One of them is Batu Lintang camp which was originally the British Indian Army barracks, while the other stands between India Street and Carpenter Street and was aptly named The Japanese Building.

The Japanese Building of Kuching: What you need to know about this historical landmark
Do you recognise it? The Japanese building is the only building built by the Imperial Army which exists to this day.

The Japanese Building, an administrative centre for Japanese forces

During World War II, Lieutenant General Marques Toshinari Maeda was elected the first commander of the Japanese forces for northern Borneo.

Initially, his headquarters were in Miri before he decided to move them to Kuching.

In Kuching, the Japanese used the Old Courthouse as their administrative centre. Then in 1941, they decided to build a building – The Japanese Building – to link the Old Courthouse and the Treasury Building.

The Treasury Building was built in 1929 purposefully for the offices of Treasury and Audit departments.

The Japanese Building of Kuching: What you need to know about this historical landmarkBefore this building existed, there was a road connecting Carpenter Street and Indian Street passing between the Old Courthouse and the Treasury Building.

The blood and sweat of Prisoners of War (POWs)

The Japanese Building was built with the blood and sweat of POWS who were interned at Batu Lintang Camp.

They had to walk 3 miles in the morning from the camp to the site and walk back again in the evening.

Besides building this administrative centre, POWs together with male civilian internees were also forced to work at Kuching harbour, 7th Mile landing ground and other sub-camps.

Most POWs were Brookes’ officers, officers from North Borneo, Royal Netherlands East Indies Army officers, British Indian Army personnel and Netherlands East Indies soldiers.

Meanwhile, the civilian internees were Roman Catholic priests and missionaries as well as British civilians.

The Japanese paid those who were part of the work party with “camp dollars”. There were also called “banana money” because the picture of banana trees printed on the notes.

Life after World War II

The Japanese Building of Kuching: What you need to know about this historical landmark
Photo taken in Kuching on 24 Sept, 1945-09-24. A party of Japanese arrived by barge at Kuching from Natoena Islands to surrender. They were disarmed and searched on the Borneo Wharf and later allowed to proceed upriver to Bau, the concentration area for all Japanese Prisoners of Wars (POWs). Australian troops and natives gatehred at wharf gate to watch the disarming and searching of Japanese POWs. Photographer Sergeant F. A. C. Burke. Courtesy of Australian War Memorial.

After the Japanese surrendered unconditionally on Aug 15, 1945, the building was first used as the court’s library.

Over the years, it has served different purposes by various parties. Although the inside of the building is inaccessible to the public on a daily basis, it still opens its doors occasionally.

Located awkwardly between two of Brooke’s buildings, the Japanese Building is the only construction built by the Japanese Army that still exists in Kuching.

The Japanese Building of Kuching: What you need to know about this historical landmark
The front alley of the Japanese Building.

Read more about Toshinari Maeda’s unfortunate fate here.

Albert Kwok, the courageous Kuchingite who led the Kinabalu Guerrillas during WWII

Although Albert Kwok was born in Kuching, Sarawak, the traces of his legacy lie 800km away in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah.

Described as “neat, clean shaven, a man of superabundant energy and made many friends” by Stephen R. Evans in his book Sabah (North Borneo) Under the Rising Sun Government, Kwok was the leader of Kinabalu Guerrillas, a group of resistance fighters during the Japanese occupation of Borneo.

Albert Kwok’s early life

Albert Kwok, the courageous Kuchingite who led the Kinabalu Guerrillas during WWII
Albert Kwok’s portrait (top left) displayed together with the other freedom fighters at Sabah State Museum.

Born in Kuching in 1921 to a dentist father, Kwok was sent to China to study traditional Chinese medicine in the late 1930s.

He moved to Kota Kinabalu which was then known as Jesselton on May 15, 1941 where he lived with his sister and brother-in-law.

It is believed that Kwok’s mother, brother and his other sister were still living in Kuching during that time.

The birth of Kinabalu Guerrillas

When the Japanese force started its offence against Jesselton, the town was defended by only 650 men of the North Borneo Armed Constabulary.

By 9 Jan 1942, the whole town was occupied by the Japanese.

A month later, Kwok wanted to establish connections with the Allied movements particularly the United States Forces in the Philippines (USFIP).

USFIP was the only sole armed resistance movement in the region which had firearms.

He managed to make his way to Tawi-Tawi in the Philippines where he trained under the command of Filipino Lieutenant Colonel Alejandro Suarez.

A year later in May 1943, Kwok returned to Jesselton and tried to contact Overseas Chinese Defence Association (OCDA).

Then in June 1943, he was back in Philippines again where he was appointed Lieutenant on July 1 by the US Army.

Kwok returned to North Borneo again only with three pistols and a box of hand grenades.

With a limited supply of firearms, he started a resistance group on 21 Sept 1943.

The group initially called themselves the Chinese National Salvation Association (CNSA), a branch of the ODCA.

However with more members of indigenous peoples, Eurasians and Sikh Indians of Jesselton joining in, the group renamed themselves theKinabalu Guerrillas Defence Force.

"Kinabalu Guerrillas"
Albert Kwok, the leader of a resistance fighter known as the “Kinabalu Guerrillas”

The Double Tenth Revolt

Only armed with parangs, spears and kris, the Kinabalu Guerrillas launched their attacks from Oct 9, 1943.

With about 300 guerrilla fighters, the revolt was aided by the Bajau-Suluk leaders such as Panglima Ali (Sulug island), Jemalul (Mantanani islands), Arshad (Udar island) and Saruddin (Dinawan island) attacking from the sea.

The Kinabalu Guerrillas had the element of surprise: They temporarily succeeded reclaiming Jesselton, Tuaran and Kota Belud with 50 to 90 Japanese casualties.

Evans wrote, “The following morning, all the main buildings in Kota Kinabalu (Jesselton) right up to Tuaran, were fully decorated with flags to celebrate the Double Tenth (Oct 10). They were the Sabah Jack (North Borneo Union Jack), the Union Jack, the United States Of America and the Chinese flag.

“The people celebrated the feast in freedom.”

The aftermath

The celebration did not last long. The Japanese started to reinforce themselves with troops coming in from Kuching.

Kwok and his Kinabalu Guerrillas was forced to retreat but the fight continued for the next three months.

The Japanese launched a series of bombings from Kota Belud to Membakut, burning down villages and killing around 2000-4000 civilians.

After being threatened with the possibility that more civilians would be killed, the top members – including Kwok – surrendered themselves to the Japanese on 19 Dec 1943.

The execution of the Kinabalu Guerrillas

While in prison, Kwok was tortured and questioned. Survivors who were imprisoned with him said that he suffered quietly, taking the responsibility of the Double Tenth Revolt.

He reportedly tried to commit suicide but failed.

On 21 Jan 1944, 176 people were executed. Not all of them were members of the Kinabalu Guerrillas; some were just civilians deemed guilty by the Japanese.

Kwok, Charles Peter, Chen Chau Kong, Kong Tse Phui, and Li Tet Phui were among those who were beheaded that day.

Other members including Jules Stephens, Panglima Ali and Rajah George Sinnadurai were shot to death.

The site of their executions is where the Petagas War Memorial now stands.

Albert Kwok, the courageous Kuchingite who led the Kinabalu Guerrillas during WWII
A kempeitai (Japanese police) would wear this headgear and leggings during World War II.

Read more:

Toshinari Maeda, the Japanese nobleman who died off the coast of Bintulu during WWII

Japanese Surrender 1945 and the contents of leaflet announcing it

After the Japanese surrender in August 1945, Royal Australian Air Force planes dropped leaflets all over Sarawak’s First Division.

According to The Sarawak Gazette, the leaflet was foolscap size (a bit longer than A4) with a broad orange border and it was only available in English.

The content of the leaflet was about what to expect or do when the Japanese surrendered their power after the end of the war.

These leaflets were dropped all over Kuching, Batu Kawah, Bau, Lundu, Serian and Simunjan.

Japanese Surrender 1945 and the contents of leaflet announcing it
The day when the Japanese Surrender. Aboard HMAS Kapunda as the Japanese envoy’s interpreter reads the surrender terms to Major-General Yamamura, the Kuching Garrison Commander (right). Copyright expired-public domain.

Here is the text of of the leaflet announcing that the Japanese surrender:

To the people of the First and Second Division of Sarawak.

1.News of the Japanese surrender will already have reached you. In addition to the Australian troops who will be coming to remove the Japanese, three officers of the Sarawak government are coming to help you, they are Lieutenant Colonel W.P.N.L Ditmas, Lieutennat Colonel C.E. Gascoigne and Major G.T Myles. They belong to a military unit known as the British Borneo Civil Affairs Unit (BBCAU).

2.The following general instructions are issued for your help and guidance:

A)You are asked to conserve your stocks of food as carefully as possible and to continue planting food stuffs to your utmost ability, as shortage of shipping and food makes the supply problem difficult.


B)Persons living outside the Kuching Municipal Area are asked to stay where they are until called, this applies particularly to the Bau and Serian districts.


C)Looting or stealing of any property whatsoever is a very serious offence and is liable to severe punishment. This includes all Japanese owned property, also property taken from others by the Japanese but in the case of the latter, after investigation and in due course this property will be returned to the rightful owners.


D)In the event of the Japanese authorities relinquishing administrative control before the arrival of the Allied troops and until further orders are received from BBCAU, Native officers and other government servants at present in office should administer the areas under their control in accordance with the laws of Sarawak and of conditions existing in Sarawak immediately prior to the Japanese occupation in 1941. Their main duty is to ensure the protection of life and property. Ketua-ketua kampung and Kapitan-kapitan Cina and other chiefs will continue to exercise the powers they held prior to the Japanese occupation. Improper behavior during the period of enemy occupation will be investigated.

E)The native officer in-charge of Kuching district and the senior inspector in charge of Police in Kuching will report to BBCAU immediately on its arrival at Pending or Kuching.


F)It is possible that some stocks of food still exist in the First and Second divisions. All of these must be safeguarded and police guards put over the places in which they are stored. In cases of genuine need, issues of food may be made from any of such stores, but full details of total stocks, amounts of issues with names and dates must be recorded.


G)All government office buildings, including the Museum, the Power Station, Churches, the Mosque and Cinemas, and all stores of valuable commodities must be placed under Police guard to ensure their safety.


H)It should be be the immediate responsibility of all Native Officers assisted by their staffs to make reports on the availability of all food supplies and the location and quantity of all food in stores, and the condition and location of any former Government or Japanese vegetables gardens or rice plantations. These reports for the whole of the First and Second Divisions are to be handed to or sent to BBCAU as soon as possible after their arrival in Kuching. The Kuching Chinese Chamber of Commerce is requested to assist with this work.

Japanese surrender
Aboard the corvette HMAS Kapunda, General Yamamura, commanding officer of Japanese forces in the Kuching area, hands his sword to Eastick, commanding officer of Kuching Force. This marks the Japanese surrender in Sarawak.

In the right background is Lieutenant A. J, Ford Ranr, commanding officer of the Kapunda. Copyrighted expired-public domain.

In the end, the surrender document was received by Australian Brigadier General Sir Thomas Eastick in the afternoon of September 11, 1945. 

Today, one can only imagine how Sarawakians felt when reading the leaflet, especially those who lived in fear during the Japanese occupation.

Sultan Tengah: 3 significant things to know about Sarawak’s first and only sultan

Sultan Tengah
Sultan Tengah mausoleum of Sarawak’s first and only sultan

The story started of how Sarawak got a sultan begins with Sultan Muhammad Hassan, the 9th sultan who ruled the Bruneian Empire from 1582 to 1598.

He succeeded the throne from Shah Berunai, his older brother who died without an heir.

When Sultan Muhammad Hassan himself died in 1598, his eldest son Abdul Jalilul Akbar ascended the throne.

Abdul Jalilul Akbar’s younger brother Pengiran Muda Tengah, however, also wanted to become the Sultan.

He claimed that his elder brother’s ascension to the throne was invalid as he was born when their father was still crown prince.

Therefore Pengiran Muda, who was born when their father was already king, claimed he had the right to succeed the throne.

In response, the newly crowned Sultan appointed his brother Pengiran Muda Tengah to be the Sultan of Sarawak which comprises present day Kuching division.

Here are 3 things to know about Sarawak’s first and only Sultan, Sultan Tengah:

1. Sultan Tengah’s reign in Sarawak

Sultan Tengah: 3 significant things to know about Sarawak's first and only sultan
Sultan Tengah’s tomb was rediscovered in 1993, more than 300 years after his death.

According to historian Chang Pat Foh in The Land of Freedom Fighters, Sultan Tengah came to Sarawak in 1599.

He brought along an entourage of a few nobles and over 1,000 warriors to help him to govern the new country.

As the Sultan of Sarawak, he carried the name Ibrahim Ali Omar Shah of Sarawak.

Before he set sail to Johor and Pahang, he established four ministers to administer his new kingdom.

They were Datu Patinggi Seri Setia, Datu Shahbandar Indera Wangsa, Datu Amar Seri Diraja and Datu Temenggong Laila Wangsa.

On his way back from Johor, Sultan Tengah was shipwrecked near the coast of Sukadana which is now the capital city of North Kayong Regency of West Kalimantan, Indonesia.

There he married Puteri Suria Kesuma, the younger sister of Sultan of Sukadana, Sultan Muhammad Saifuddin.

By 1600, he left Sukadana to Sambas where they built settlement in Kuala Bangun, near the Sambas river.

2. His issue

Sultan Tengah: 3 significant things to know about Sarawak's first and only sultan
Opening hours to visit Sultan Tengah’s tomb.

It was during their stay in Sambas when the late Sultan had three sons with Puteri Suria: Radin Sulaiman, Pengiran Badaruddin and Pengiran Abdul Wahab.

Radin Sulaiman later married Puteri Mas Ayu Bongsu, the princess of Sambas.

In 1631, Radin became the first Muslim ruler of the Sambas Kingdom bearing the name of Sri Paduka al-Sultan Tuanku Muhammad Safiuddin 1.

By that time, in 1630, Sultan Tengah had already departed to Matan, an ancient kingdom located in the Ketapang Regency of West Kalimantan, Indonesia.

There in Matan, he married a local princess and had a son. They named him Pengiran Mangku Negara who later become the Sultan of Matan.

Sultan Tengah: 3 significant things to know about Sarawak's first and only sultan
A brief history of Sultan Tengah written on a plague near his tomb.

3. His death

After staying a few years in Matan, the wayward sultan decided to return to Sarawak.

By 1641, he arrived home and made a temporary settlement at Batu Buaya near the coast of Santubong.

It was there that Sultan Tengah was assassinated by one of his followers.

His wife decided to return home to the Kingdom of Sukananda after his death.

No records show that the Sultan of Brunei sent a replacement for Sultan Tengah, and Sarawak was reunified with Brunei.

The tale of Sultan Tengah is one of a prince who was not supposed to be, but wanted to be king. And when he finally became one, he hardly spent any time in his kingdom.

It is unsurprising that none of his princes came to claim the throne of Sarawak as they themselves were not born or raised in the kingdom.

Nonetheless, Sultan Tengah did establish his capital along the bank of Sungai Bedil which slowly expanded into what we know today as Kuching.

Thanks to Sultan Tengah, the once Hindu royal houses of Sambas and Matan both turned into Muslim Sultanates and his descendants became the rulers for both kingdoms.

Sultan Tengah’s tomb was lost over the centuries and finally found again in 1993. Subsequently, the Sarawak Government commenced the construction of Sultan Tengah Mausoleum in 1994. The mausoleum was completed in May 1995 at the cost of RM546,000.

Sarawak’s first and only Sultan is now laid in his final resting place at the junction of Jalan Damai and Jalan Kampung Santubong.

Sultan Tengah: 3 significant things to know about Sarawak's first and only sultan
His tomb is now overlooking the junction of Jalan Damai and Jalan Kampung Santubong.

18 impressive forts in Sarawak built during the Brooke Era

The Kingdom of Sarawak was established from a series of land concessions by the Brooke family famously known as the White Rajahs.

In fact, it was even recognised as an independent state by the United States in 1850 and the United Kingdom in 1864.

The founder James Brooke and his successors Charles as well as Vyner built forts every time they acquired a territory from the Sultanate of Brunei.

As a result, forts mostly made of belian or ironwood can be found in almost every town in Sarawak.

Some of the forts in Sarawak were well-kept and turned into museums.

Another handful were abandoned, losing all trace of their former glory.

The rest were either destroyed, burnt down or bombed, leaving no physical evidence of their very existence.

Nonetheless, here is a brief guide on forts in Sarawak built during the reign of the White Rajahs:

1. Fort Emma in Kanowit (1859)

When it was first built in 1859, they only used timber and bamboo. It was named in honour of Emma Brooke, Charles’ sister.

2. Fort Brooke in Sibu (1862)

There was a fort built by the Brookes in 1862, believed to be located at present day Channel Road. However, the building was demolished in 1936.

3. Fort Alice in Sri Aman (1864)

Here is another fort named after the first Ranee whose full name was Margaret Alice Lili de Windt. The fort was built in 1864 with belian wood.

The oldest heritage building in Sri Aman, now it is also known as Heritage Sri Aman Museum.

4. Fort Keppel in Bintulu (1868)

The White Rajah started to build this wooden fort in Bintulu in 1862. They named it after Sir Henry Keppel who was a close friend of James and Charles.

Keppel was responsible for ending Dayak piracy in the Saribas between 1840 and 1850. The building was made of belian wood and had a cement floor.

Unfortunately, it was completely destroyed when it was hit by a bomb in 1942 during the Japanese occupation.

5. Fort Charles in Kabong (1878)

Fort Charles was first built by a Brooke officer named Maxwell in 1878.

Like most of the forts in Sarawak, it was used as an administration office and also to collect taxes.
In 1893, the fort collapsed due to soil erosion and was rebuilt further inland in 1895.

6. Fort Margherita in Kuching (1879)

Back in the olden days, a cannon shot was fired from this fort every evening to mark the end of the government work day.

Now, Fort Margherita plays home to the Brooke Gallery displaying historical documents and artifacts.  The fort was named in honour of Charles’s wife Ranee Margaret.

A night view of Fort Margherita, one of the forts in Sarawak
A night view of Fort Margherita, one of the forts in Sarawak.

7. Fort Sylvia in Kapit (1880)

This historical fort was built in 1880 and named after Ranee Sylvia, Vyner’s wife.

From May 1997 till now, the Sarawak state government authorised the Tun Jugah Foundation to set up a museum in this building.

Fort Sylvia Kapit (10)
The front door of Fort Sylvia.

8. Fort Vyner in Belaga (1884)

It was named after the third White Rajah Charles Vyner Brooke.

The fort was officially declared complete on Jan 13, 1884. Belaga’s oldest government building was burnt to ashes in May 2015.

9. Fort Lily in Betong (1885)

Fort Lily was built in 1885 right after the Saribas area was ceded to the Brookes.

It played a significant role as defence centre during the war against Iban warrior Rentap.

As of 2017, the fort has been locked up from public access and its grounds appear untended.

DSC_0039
A view of Fort Lily through its locked gates.

DSC_0041
Signage pointing to Fort Lily.

10.Fort Florence in Trusan (1887)

On Jan 3, 1885, Trusan river and its area were ceded to Kingdom of Sarawak.  A fort was quickly built in 1887.

According to reports, it was named Fort Florence after Mrs Maxwell, whose husband was one of Brooke’s officers then.

11. Fort Ranee in Saratok (1888)

Ten years after Fort Charles in Kabong was built, Fort Ranee was built in Saratok on top of Satagok hill.

Initially, it was built as an temporary building with attap roofing and timber. During its glory days, it was used as a district office.

12. Fort Limbang (1897)

This two-storey fort was built in 1897. The first storey was made of belian timber while the ground floor was concrete. Sadly in 1989, the original building was burnt to the ground.

But it was then rebuilt on the original site with the exact design. It was turned into Limbang Regional Museum on Aug 27, 1994.

13.Fort Hose in Marudi (1901)

The construction on this fort began in 1889 and were completed in 1901. It was named after Charles Hose, the then resident of the Fourth Division.

Currently, it is also  known as Baram Regional Museum.

Fort Hose

14. Fort Burdett in Mukah (1911)

Fort Burdett was named after 19th century philanthropist Angela Burdett-Coutts. She was a good friend of the first Rajah.

During WWII, the original building was burnt to the ground.

15. Fort Arundell in Lubok Antu (1912)

Fort Arundell was constructed in 1912. It was named after the then resident of Simanggang division, Gilbert Roger Harris Arundell.

Unfortunately, he was killed in 1942 when the Japanese attacked Sarawak during WWII.

16. Fort Leonora in Engkilili (1924)

This fort was built in 1924.

Unlike the rest of forts in Sarawak, this fort was not built to defend the kingdom from any attack.

It was built purposefully as an administration centre in Engkilili.  The fort was named after Vyner’s eldest daughter Dayang Leonara Margaret.

The original building was taken down to build the current district office.

17. Fort Long Akah (1929) and Fort Lio Mato in Baram

Fort Long Akah is located about 10-minute boat ride from Long San. The two-storey building was built as an administrative centre in 1929 using belian wood.

During WWII, it acted as a temporary headquarters for the British and Australian forces.

As of 2016, the building was reportedly still in a depleted state and overrun by jungle.

Apart from fort Long Akah, fort Lio Mato is another fort located along the Baram river.

Also neglected, this fort is located only 50km from the border with Kalimantan.

Historically, it was used during Sarawak-Indonesia confrontation in the 1960s.

18. Fort Brooke in Nanga Meluan, Julau (1935)

Asun Paing was a former penghulu born in the late 19th century in Julau.  He led a rebellion against the Brooke government over taxation.

To halt his revolt, the Brooke built a fort in Julau in 1935.

Over the years, it was used as a district council office and police station.

After years of neglect, it was repaired under a project funded by the Ministry of Tourism in 2012.

Do you know any forts in Sarawak which are not listed here?

Let us know in the comment box.

Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor: 5 interesting things to know about this historical figure

If you paid attention to your history lessons in school, you might remember who Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor is… but if you’re like the rest of us, you might only recognise his name on a school in Kuching.

As there is only a bit info on him in our history books, KajoMag decided to dig up more about this historical figure.

1. Who is Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor?

Before James Brooke came to Sarawak, Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor was a powerful and influential man.

He was once appointed as the Governor of Sarawak. He was also the first imam of the Masjid Besar (the State Mosque) in Kuching from 1851 to 1854.

Abdul Gapor was married to Dayang Inda. She was the daughter of Datu Patinggi Abang Ali, who fought for the independence of Sarawak from Brunei.

It was said that Abang Ali’s family was responsible for building the state mosque. The construction took place from 1848 to 1852.

2. Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor had his title stripped by James Brooke

Abdul Gapor was awarded the title ‘Datu Patinggi’  after his father-in-law (Abang Ali) was murdered alongside George Stewart (a European officer) in 1844 when fighting a rebellion in Skrang.

In 1854, however, Abdul Gapor’s title was stripped by James Brooke because it was said that he imposed a very high tax upon the people under him.

Angered by this, he no longer had the privilege he used to before and demanded compensation.

3. He planned a revolt with another Sarawakian historical figure

Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor: 5 interesting things to know about this historical figure
Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor planned a revolt with Sharif Masahor (picture) against the British (Image source Sejarah Melayu Sarawak)

In 1860, Abdul Gapor planned a revolt with Sharif Masahor, a leader from Sarikei, against James Brooke.

This happened when Brooke took control over the Rajang River in 1857 and stripped Sharif Masahor and several powerful men of their titles.

This resulted in them losing power to collect tax and influence the locals.

The revolt that took place in Kuching, however, failed.

Sharif Masahor managed to escape to Mukah but was handed over to the British by the Sultan of Brunei in 1861. He was later banished to Singapore.

Abdul Gapor escaped to Betawi, Jawa in 1860 but was captured by the Dutch and handed over to James Brooke.

He was later imprisoned in Betawi until he passed away after a few years.

4. Guess who his descendants are

Did you know that Abdul Gapor is Sarawak Premier Datuk Patinggi Abang Johari Tun Openg’s direct ancestor?

Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor: 5 interesting things to know about this historical figure
Tun Haji Openg bin Abang Sapi’ee (left) and Datuk Amar Abang Abdul Rahman Zohari Abang Openg  (Image source: Wikipedia)

According to a book compiled by Ho Ah Chon on his father Tun Haji Openg bin Abang Sapi’ee,  Abdul Gapor turns out to be his great-great-grandfather.

The brief genealogy reads like a who’s who of Sarawak Malay history, which also outlines how through Abdul Gapor, Abang Johari can also trace his ancestry back to Menteri Hussin, the grandson of Raja Minangkabau, who was also an ancestor of Their  Highnesses the Sultans Mohammad Tajuddin, Hashim, Mohamad Jumalul Alam and Omar Ali Saifuddin III of Brunei.

Interestingly, Openg was also Sarawak’s first governor upon the independence of Sarawak from Great Britain and the formation of Malaysia until his death on March 28, 1969 at the age of 63.

Meanwhile, Abang Johari became Sarawak’s sixth Sarawak premier in 2017 following the death of Pehin Sri Adenan Satem.

5. A school was named after Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor

Datu Patinggi Abdul Gapor: 5 interesting things to know about this historical figure
SMK Datuk Patinggi Haji Abdul Gapor (DPHAG), Stampin (Image source: Alumni SMK DPHA Gapor Website)

A public secondary school, SMK Datuk Patinggi Haji Abdul Gapor (DPHAG), Stampin in Kuching was named after him.

SMK Datuk DPHAG was established in 1974 by the Sarawak State Education Department.

At that time, there were only 182 students and four teachers teaching in the school.

It was the first school in Sarawak to use Malay as the primary language for communication. These days however, students and teachers use Malay, English and Chinese for communication purposes.

Discover 8 types of delectable Kuching foods to eat in Cat City

Kuching foods; Kuchingites can get pretty opinionated about what’s good to eat and where as we pride ourselves on having the best food around.

Whether it is for breakfast, lunch, dinner of even snacking in between meals, everybody has their own preferences.

For first-timers here in the Cat City, here is the list of must-try, affordable Kuching food when you are in town.

1. Kolo mee

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Kolo mee can be found in just about any coffeeshop here.

Considered by many as the poster noodle for Kuching, kolo mee is an all time favourite among Kuchingites.

Usually consumed for breakfast, you’ll still see this dish available for lunch and dinner… even after clubbing.

A basic bowl of kolo mee consists of its signature yellow noodles topped off with char siew, minced meat, and chopped scallion.

A simple yet satisfying dish, a bowl of kolo mee usually around RM5, depending on the toppings.

2. Laksa

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This bowl of sumptuous, fiery goodness has an international appeal – just ask Anthony Bourdain.

I may be biased, but I find Sarawak laksa is the best kind compared to other varieties of laksas around Malaysia like the Penang Assam Laksa and Johor Laksa.

Anthony Bourdain himself called it the ‘Breakfast of the Gods’ during his second visit here to Kuching in 2016, putting other types of laksa to shame, as Sarawak laksa crowned itself the Queen.

A bowl of Sarawak laksa usually consists of bee hoon (rice vermicelli), shrimp, strips of omelette, shredded chicken and bean sprouts swimming in the dish’s most important feature, the spicy laksa broth. The whole concoction is topped with fresh sprigs of coriander.

For those eating laksa for the first time, take your time to enjoy the lingering fragrance of the laksa broth which gets its rich flavour from a paste made up of chillis, coconut milk, lemongrass, galangal, aniseed, cumin along with a host of aromatic spices.

An average bowl of laksa can typically cost anywhere under RM10, depending on the size of the shrimp, the bowl portions or the topping.

3. Mee hijau/Spinach noodles

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Light and savoury Mee Hijau at ABC Corner, Pending

As its name suggests, Mee Hijau is a bowl of green spinach noodles. Depending on the stall owner, it can come topped with char siew or roasted chicken.

Currently, most Kuchingites get their spinach noodle fix at Chong Chon Green Noodle at 3rd Mile, costing about RM6.

Chong Chon Green Noodle at 3rd Mile, Kuching
The iconic Chong Chon Green Noodle at 3rd Mile, Kuching

Spinach is blended in with the noodle dough to create that lovely green colour. Chong Chon’s green noodle dish is chewy, springy and savoury from soaking in beef broth.

Simply delicious, spinach noodle is also a healthy meal for those who do not like veggies but still need to fill up on your fibers. Bon Appetit!

4. Mee sapi/Beef noodles

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One of the most popular places to get Mee Sapi is at Green Hill, Kuching

If kolo mee is the loud attention-seeking sibling, then mee sapi or beef noodles is the calmer of the two.

This simple yet hearty noodle dish is often overlooked when non-Kuchingites ask which dishes to try when they are in town.

While it looks similar to kolo mee, it is with topped slices of beef, bean sprouts and chopped scallions. It is the perfect noodle dish to have for breakfast.

You can have it ‘dry’ which means that your noodles will be served separately with a bowl of steaming hot beef broth, or as ‘Mee Sapi Sup’ which combines the soup and the noodles together.

Mee sapi can be found anywhere in Kuching, but my favourite place to get a bowl of freshly prepared Mee Sapi is at Green Hill (non-halal) in downtown Kuching.

5. Cha Kueh

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One of the best snack foods to be eaten with friends.

Cha Kueh – white radish typically fried with egg and sweet soy sauce – is usually served in a huge portion and as a side dish as it is meant to be shared with lots of people while waiting for their main orders to arrive.

Or am I the only one who does that?

Compared to the other dishes on this list, Cha Kueh is the fastest dish to reach your table taking perhaps about 5 minutes depending on the queue at that particular food stall.

Typically, the cost of this delectable hawker dish may range from RM4 (small) to RM6 (large).

6. Kueh Chap

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Kueh Chap, the ultimate Kuching food for those who love pork.

If you love pork you will love this Kuching food.

Kueh Chap is a Teochew dish made up of a whole variety of piggy parts like pork belly, pork intestines, pork meat together with boiled egg and sheets of wide, flat rice noodles drenched in a brown aromatic herbal brown broth.

A bowl of Kueh Chap may cost around RM6 to RM10. The best place to get Kueh Chap is at Carpenter Street.

7. Mani Chai Bee Hoon

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Mani Chai Bee Hoon at Yong Siang Corner, Pending.

Depending on which food stalls you go to, you’ll find a local vegetable called Mani Chai in Chinese or ‘cangkuk manis’ in Malay. It is a dark, leafy green vegetable and Mani Chai Bee Hoon is a simple dish that is fairly popular in Sarawak.

In Sarawak, Mani Chai Bee Hoon is a rice vermicelli dish usually stir-fried with egg and Mani Chai. Since it is almost a household dish, some places even serve it together sliced meat or even fish cakes.

You can find this Kuching food in almost any coffeeshop in Kuching. A plate of Mani Chai Bee Hoon can cost anywhere from RM5 to RM8.

8. Nasi Goreng Dabai

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Nasi Goreng Dabai at IMH Cafe, Rock Road, Kuching.

Dabai (Canarium odontophyllum) is a local fruit in Sarawak. The outer coating of the fruit is glossy black while the flesh of the fruit is bright yellow covering an elongated seed.

Preparing dabai itself is quite easy; all you have to do is soak it in hot water for at least 15 minutes. Once  softened, you can pull it from the seed and eat the flesh with soy sauce and salt.

A plate of fried nasi dabai may cost around RM6 to RM8.

9. Mee Tomato

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Mee Tomato at Open Air Market, Kuching.

Tomato noodles or Mee Tomato was my favourite noodle dish of all time when I was growing up.

Mee Tomato is made up of either yellow or crispy noodles topped with chicken or char siew drenched in a thick tomato sauce.

A plate of this reddish orange goodness can cost RM6 to RM10.

If you are looking for a more comprehensive list of Kuching food, check out this article.

 

Tasik Biru: Legends and conspiracy theories behind this mesmerizing lake

Tasik Biru (which means “blue lake” in Malay because of its colour); what stories have you heard about this lake in Bau?

All over the world, lakes have been the subject of folklore and legend. There is Loch Ness in Scotland and Danau Toba in Indonesia as well as Malaysia’s very own Tasik Dayang Bunting  in Langkawi and Tasik Chini in Kuantan.

Sarawak has her own fair share of mythical lakes and one of them can be found about one hour from its capital city of Kuching.

Located in Bau, Tasik Biru (which means “blue lake” in Malay because of its colour) is not a natural lake but an open pit gold mine.

Its original name was Tai Parit or “big drain” in the Hakka dialect.

According to history, the gold mine was operated by the Borneo Company from 1898 until it was flooded in 1921.

Since it was flooded in 1921, many rumours and legends have been floating around about the lake.

Tasik Biru: Legends and conspiracy theories behind this mesmerizing lake
Tasik Biru is not a natural lake but a mining pit

The legends from underneath the lake

Chang Pat Foh wrote in The Land of Freedom Fighters that an old miner told a story about a human-shaped stone removed from the bottom of the lake.

Some believed that the stone was a deity named the King of Stone. The deity was angry that he was removed from the lake so he decided to flood the lake until it overflowed.

There were also rumours of three monsters appearing in Tasik Biru back in 1988. The large figures were reportedly about 3m long!

Tasik Biru: Legends and conspiracy theories behind this mesmerizing lake
There were also rumours of three monsters appearing in Tasik Biru.

The tragedy long forgotten

Besides myths and legends, the lake was also witness to an awful tragedy.

On June 7, 1979, a bus carrying students and teachers from SMK Lake, Bau plunged into the lake in an accident.

The tragedy took the lives of one trainee teacher and 29 students.

A monument is planned to be erected near the lake in remembrance of the 30 victims.

Tasik Biru: Legends and conspiracy theories behind this mesmerizing lake
The lake was the site of a tragedy in 1979.

Conspiracy theory about Tasik Biru

There is a signboard warning the public against swimming, fishing and bathing in Tasik Biru.

This is due to the fact that Tasik Biru has high levels of arsenic.

A local Chinese daily once reported a conspiracy theory about the arsenic warning. Apparently, there were people who believed that the lake was not actually polluted with arsenic and that the warning was made up to stop miners from excavating the large quantities of gold underneath.

Another piece of hearsay was that the state government was planning to dry up the lake to mine the gold.

Additionally, it was rumoured that people had discovered Japanese samurai swords and cannonballs from World War II, said to be thrown into the lake by the Japanese forces themselves during their occupation.

Tasik Biru: Legends and conspiracy theories behind this mesmerizing lake
Some people believed that the lake buried ammunition from World War II.

A home to Jong Regatta

Putting aside the legends and conspiracy theories surrounding the lake, one thing for sure is that visitors still make their way to Tasik Biru for the Bau Jong Regatta.

Jong is a miniature sailing boat some believe was inspired by the Royalist, a schooner owned by the first White Rajah of Sarawak, James Brooke.

The regatta, however, was first started by a colonial officer named A.J.N. Richards in the 1950s.

It was held several times over the past few decades until it was revived as an annual event in 2009.

The event is usually organised in the last quarter of the year so watch out for the this year’s date to visit this scenic (yet) arsenic lake.

Tasik Biru: Legends and conspiracy theories behind this mesmerizing lake
Head to Tasik Biru for Bau Jong Regatta.
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