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Crocodile Effigies Part 1: The Iban Mali Umai Ritual

In days gone by, Ibans carried out rituals and festivals for all occasions. From celebrating the birth of a new baby to warding off bad omens, pest control was no exception.

While some traditions are still practiced today – like the meri anak mandi ritual where a new baby is given a traditional baptism in the river – the mali umai , ngemali umai or nambai umai ritual which sees crocodile effigies being made to ward off pests is rarely done today.

As of 2014, the Sarawak Museum Department has recorded about 40 sites with confirmed effigies built by the Iban community throughout Sarawak. Some of these effigies can be dated back to 100 years.

Among them, 19 can be found in Kuching, Samarahan, Sri Aman and Betong division, while seven can be found in Sibu and Mukah division, three in Sarikei division, and six in Kanowit district.

Presently, there is one at Fort Alice in Simanggang, otherwise known as Sri Aman.

Living next door to Alice

The fort was refurbished in 2015 and turned into a heritage museum
The fort was refurbished in 2015 and turned into a heritage museum.

Fort Alice was named after the second Ranee of Sarawak, Margaret Alice Lili de Windt. Until 2015, it was an abandoned building until it was refurbished and reconstructed into a heritage museum under the Sarawak Museum Department.

The 153-year-old building was built following the victory of Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak, over Rentap, an Iban chieftain. It functioned to control the activities of the Iban from the Saribas area.

While the newly renovated building itself is worth visiting, the earthen crocodile effigies (baya tanah) located outside the compound at the foot of the building also deserves equal attention for their fascinating history and purpose.

A pair of male and female crocodile effigies at Fort Alice
The pair of male and female crocodile effigies at Fort Alice.

Traditional pest control

The effigies were typically made in pairs; one female and one male, the latter often slightly bigger than the former.

Sometimes, the pair would be accompanied with a smaller crocodile effigy, supposedly the baby crocodile.

As part of a hill paddy planting ritual, it is used as an ‘agent’ to get rid of paddy pests such as grasshoppers, locusts, sparrows, rats and monkeys during the weed clearing season (mantun) before the paddy began to bear grain.

According to an entry called “Mali Umai Iban” in the Sarawak Museum Journal vol I.XX, a path would be cleared from the crocodile snouts to the edge of the intended paddy farm after the ritual so that the crocodile spirit wouldn’t get lost.

Typically 2 to 3 metres in length and 0.4 to 0.8 metres in width, most of the effigies face a water source, such as a river or stream.

Only a few face inland. Those that do are in Simanggang, where the effigies face the paddy farm or the setting sun.

Ceramic cups used as the eyes of the crocodile effigies
Ceramic cups used as the eyes of the crocodile effigies

The earthen effigies would often be made on flat ground from the clay soil located at or around the chosen site.

The crocodiles would normally be made with outstretched limbs, forward-facing heads and slightly curved tails.

The ones at Fort Alice have porcelain cups and plates used as the eyes and scales of the crocodile.

Before the availability of porcelain dishware, pebbles were used instead. Besides porcelain, white glass marble or coins were also used.

Ceramic plates as scales
Ceramic plates as scales

Protection against the natural elements

Besides pest control, it was also said that the effigies were used in rituals to stop droughts, known as gawai minta ari.

Usually used in severe weather conditions, rituals were also conducted during torrential rain and flood, asking for dry weather.

The effigies were also used for a ritual called pelasi menoa, meaning to ward off bad omens and calamities.

With most Ibans being exposed to Christianity and the availability of pesticides, however, many have abandoned the practice.

Memperingati mangsa tawanan perang di Kundasang War Memorial

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Dedicated to the lasting memory of the 641 British servicemen
Who died in terrible circumstances
In the Sandakan prisoner of war camp
On the death marches and at Ranau 1943-1945
They shall not weary them, nor the years condemn
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them

Demikianlah ayat yang termaktub pada batu plak hitam dengan bendera United Kingdom di English Rose Garden, salah satu taman bunga yang terdapat di Kundasang War Memorial (Tugu Peringatan Kundasang).

Di sana terdapat juga taman-taman lain termasuklah Australian Garden, Borneo Garden dan Contemplation Garden.

Terletak di Kundasang, tugu tersebut memerlukan dua jam perjalanan menggunakan kereta dari ibu negeri Sabah, Kota Kinabalu.

Ia dibina untuk memperingati tentera Britain dan Australia yang terkorban di kem tahanan Sandakan dalam perjalanan ke Ranau.

Pada tahun 1942, seramai 2,400 tawanan perang dibawa dari Singapura sebagai buruh paksa untuk membina landasan kereta api di kem tahanan Sandakan.

Dari bulan Januari ke Ogos 1945, pada pengakhiran Perang Dunia Kedua, para tawanan perang dikerah untuk berjalan sepanjang 260 kilometer dari Sandakan ke Ranau.

Kebanyakan mereka dipercayai terkorban akibat serangan penyakit, kebuluran dan penderaan tentera Jepun.

Hanya 6 orang, kesemuanya warganegara Australia terselamat setelah mereka berjaya melarikan diri.

Penduduk tempatan turut membahayakan nyawa mereka dengan memberi makan dan menyorok tawanan sehingga berakhirnya Perang Dunia Kedua.

Dibina pada 1962, tugu tersebut juga memperingati pengorbanan dan kesengsaraan penduduk Sabah.

Ide untuk membina tugu tersebut datang daripada Major G.S. Carter, seorang warganegara New Zealand pada awal 1960s.

Ia kemudiannya dibina menggunakan dana dikumpul oleh penduduk tempatan dan asing di Sabah.

Malangnya, tugu tersebut telah terabai sehinggalah seorang lelaki Thailand Sevee Charuruks berjaya memulihnya pada tahun 2004.

Tugu tersebut sangat sesuai dibina di kaki Gunung Kinabalu kerana penduduk tempatan percaya awan-awan yang menyelaputi gunung tersebut melindungi roh-roh mereka yang telah meninggal dunia.

Surat-surat khabar mengenai perjalanan maut Sandakan (death march) tersebut turut dipamerkan.

Apabila memasuki kawasan tugu, para pengunjung akan memasuki Australian Garden dimana terletaknya bendera Australia dan plak berjudul ‘Kinabalu Kundasang War Memorial and Australia’.

Terdapat juga sebuah panel ditulis dalam bahasa Inggeris dan Melayu tentang sejarah sebalik tawanan perang di Sabah.

Sementara itu, Borneo Garden pula memperingati mangsa-mangsa peperangan di Sabah yang cuba menolong pihak tawanan namun terkorban.

Di Borneo Garden juga, terdapat pokok-pokok bunga yang boleh dijumpai di Sabah.

Manakala di Contemplation Garden, berdirinya panel-panel dibina pada tahun 2011 yang mempamerkan kesemua nama-nama mangsa peperangan tersebut.

Amat menyayat hati apabila melihat lebih 2000 nama yang terpampang sepatutnya diingati bukan sahaja sebagai mangsa tawanan perang, malah sebagai seorang sahabat, anak, bapa dan abang.

Yang lebih menyedihkan, sebanyak 38 nama tidak sepatutnya termaktub pada panel tersebut kerana mereka berjaya sampai ke Ranau walaupun dalam keadaan yang lemah.

Namun demikian, mereka telah ditembak mati oleh pihak Jepun kira-kira 12 hari selepas Jepun menyerah diri pada 15 Ogos, 1945.

A visit to Fort Hose, Marudi, Sarawak

A visit to Marudi, a quiet riverine town in northern Sarawak, would be incomplete without a visit to Fort Hose.

Located about 100km upriver from Kuala Baram, Marudi used to be the administrative centre of this area before Miri was founded.

Today it is the largest town in Baram district.

Fort Hose 1
Fort Hose, now known as Baram Regional Museum.

It all started in 1883 when the then-Sultan of Brunei, Sultan Abdul Momin ceded the Baram region to Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah.

The Baram region became the fourth division of Sarawak with Mamerto George Gueritz installed as its first Resident.

Whenever the Brooke administration attained an area to govern, the first thing it would do is build a fort.

Fort Hose 2
A detailed wooden carving decorating one of the wooden poles of Fort Hose’s gateway.
Fort Hose 3
The archway leading to the fort.
Fort Hose 4
Mannequins showing how it might look like to visit the resident at his office at Fort Hose during the Brooke administration.

Construction on the fort began in 1889 and were completed in 1901. The fort was named after Charles Hose, who was appointed as Resident of the Fourth Division in 1891.

The fort was built with durable belian hardwood on top of a hill overlooking the Baram river.

Two large cannons positioned at the front of the fort would protect the building against invaders.

Fort Hose was also used as an administration office and Resident’s house.

In 1899, the building became the site of a historical peacemaking ceremony that would end bloody ages-old wars among all the tribes in the Baram region.

Since then, various authorities have used Fort Hose over the years: the District Office, the Welfare Department, Immigration Department, Land and Survey Department and Information Department.

When the Japanese invaded Sarawak during World War II, they reportedly used it as a Kempeitai or Military Police Corps’ headquarters.

It was last used as a Community Development office of Penan Handicraft Exhibition centre.

On 24 Aug 1994, around midnight, Fort Hose was razed to the ground almost 100 years after it was built.

In 1995, the communities in and around the Baram area contributed Belian poles towards the fort’s reconstruction. It was then rebuilt according to its original dimensions and design.

It was officially renamed Baram Regional Museum on 25 May 1997 and declared open by former Sarawak Deputy Chief Minister Alfred Jabu Numpang.

Fort Hose 4
Traditional shields, wooden baskets used by the Orang Ulu communities.
Fort Hose 6
Some of the traditional music instruments used by the Orang Ulu communities on display inside the museum.
Fort Hose
A tribal mask usually used during an Orang Ulu ceremony.

Baram Regional Museum

Fort Hose
A view of the inside of the Baram Regional Museum.

At the museum, visitors can find a collection of photographs taken by Hose himself.

Most are portraits of the Orang Ulu taken in the early 20th century as well as aspects of their daily lives like salt processing.

Local textiles, beaded items, wood carvings and ceremonial items such as wooden masks used by the Orang Ulu communities of the region are also on display.

It also houses a 30-foot-long sape which made it to the Malaysian Guinness Book of Records for the being the biggest of its kind. Built in 2008, the lute-like musical instrument was made by sape makers Anyie Wan, Hillary Tawan Achai and Noel Along Anyie.

Although it is relatively smaller than other museums here in Sarawak, it offers a comprehensive guide to the history of Baram and its people.

It may be the only museum in Malaysia focusing mainly on the culture and history of Orang Ulu communities which include the Kayan, Kenyah, Penan and Kelabit.

Visitors can also take a walk in the park surrounding the fort as it offers an excellent view of the Baram River.

The museum is open Tuesdays to Fridays (9am-4.45pm), Saturdays and Sundays (10am-4pm). Admission is free.

Fort Hose
Fort Hose overlooks the mighty Baram river.
Fort Hose 9
There is a hanging bridge located right behind the fort.
Fort Hose 10
Take a walk at the park near the fort.
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