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18 impressive forts in Sarawak built during the Brooke Era

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The Kingdom of Sarawak was established from a series of land concessions by the Brooke family famously known as the White Rajahs.

In fact, it was even recognised as an independent state by the United States in 1850 and the United Kingdom in 1864.

The founder James Brooke and his successors Charles as well as Vyner built forts every time they acquired a territory from the Sultanate of Brunei.

As a result, forts mostly made of belian or ironwood can be found in almost every town in Sarawak.

Some of the forts in Sarawak were well-kept and turned into museums.

Another handful were abandoned, losing all trace of their former glory.

The rest were either destroyed, burnt down or bombed, leaving no physical evidence of their very existence.

Nonetheless, here is a brief guide on forts in Sarawak built during the reign of the White Rajahs:

1. Fort Emma in Kanowit (1859)

When it was first built in 1859, they only used timber and bamboo. It was named in honour of Emma Brooke, Charles’ sister.

2. Fort Brooke in Sibu (1862)

There was a fort built by the Brookes in 1862, believed to be located at present day Channel Road. However, the building was demolished in 1936.

3. Fort Alice in Sri Aman (1864)

Here is another fort named after the first Ranee whose full name was Margaret Alice Lili de Windt. The fort was built in 1864 with belian wood.

The oldest heritage building in Sri Aman, now it is also known as Heritage Sri Aman Museum.

4. Fort Keppel in Bintulu (1868)

The White Rajah started to build this wooden fort in Bintulu in 1862. They named it after Sir Henry Keppel who was a close friend of James and Charles.

Keppel was responsible for ending Dayak piracy in the Saribas between 1840 and 1850. The building was made of belian wood and had a cement floor.

Unfortunately, it was completely destroyed when it was hit by a bomb in 1942 during the Japanese occupation.

5. Fort Charles in Kabong (1878)

Fort Charles was first built by a Brooke officer named Maxwell in 1878.

Like most of the forts in Sarawak, it was used as an administration office and also to collect taxes.
In 1893, the fort collapsed due to soil erosion and was rebuilt further inland in 1895.

6. Fort Margherita in Kuching (1879)

Back in the olden days, a cannon shot was fired from this fort every evening to mark the end of the government work day.

Now, Fort Margherita plays home to the Brooke Gallery displaying historical documents and artifacts.  The fort was named in honour of Charles’s wife Ranee Margaret.

A night view of Fort Margherita, one of the forts in Sarawak
A night view of Fort Margherita, one of the forts in Sarawak.

7. Fort Sylvia in Kapit (1880)

This historical fort was built in 1880 and named after Ranee Sylvia, Vyner’s wife.

From May 1997 till now, the Sarawak state government authorised the Tun Jugah Foundation to set up a museum in this building.

Fort Sylvia Kapit (10)
The front door of Fort Sylvia.

8. Fort Vyner in Belaga (1884)

It was named after the third White Rajah Charles Vyner Brooke.

The fort was officially declared complete on Jan 13, 1884. Belaga’s oldest government building was burnt to ashes in May 2015.

9. Fort Lily in Betong (1885)

Fort Lily was built in 1885 right after the Saribas area was ceded to the Brookes.

It played a significant role as defence centre during the war against Iban warrior Rentap.

As of 2017, the fort has been locked up from public access and its grounds appear untended.

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A view of Fort Lily through its locked gates.
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Signage pointing to Fort Lily.

10.Fort Florence in Trusan (1887)

On Jan 3, 1885, Trusan river and its area were ceded to Kingdom of Sarawak.  A fort was quickly built in 1887.

According to reports, it was named Fort Florence after Mrs Maxwell, whose husband was one of Brooke’s officers then.

11. Fort Ranee in Saratok (1888)

Ten years after Fort Charles in Kabong was built, Fort Ranee was built in Saratok on top of Satagok hill.

Initially, it was built as an temporary building with attap roofing and timber. During its glory days, it was used as a district office.

12. Fort Limbang (1897)

This two-storey fort was built in 1897. The first storey was made of belian timber while the ground floor was concrete. Sadly in 1989, the original building was burnt to the ground.

But it was then rebuilt on the original site with the exact design. It was turned into Limbang Regional Museum on Aug 27, 1994.

13.Fort Hose in Marudi (1901)

The construction on this fort began in 1889 and were completed in 1901. It was named after Charles Hose, the then resident of the Fourth Division.

Currently, it is also  known as Baram Regional Museum.

Fort Hose

14. Fort Burdett in Mukah (1911)

Fort Burdett was named after 19th century philanthropist Angela Burdett-Coutts. She was a good friend of the first Rajah.

During WWII, the original building was burnt to the ground.

15. Fort Arundell in Lubok Antu (1912)

Fort Arundell was constructed in 1912. It was named after the then resident of Simanggang division, Gilbert Roger Harris Arundell.

Unfortunately, he was killed in 1942 when the Japanese attacked Sarawak during WWII.

16. Fort Leonora in Engkilili (1924)

This fort was built in 1924.

Unlike the rest of forts in Sarawak, this fort was not built to defend the kingdom from any attack.

It was built purposefully as an administration centre in Engkilili.  The fort was named after Vyner’s eldest daughter Dayang Leonara Margaret.

The original building was taken down to build the current district office.

17. Fort Long Akah (1929) and Fort Lio Mato in Baram

Fort Long Akah is located about 10-minute boat ride from Long San. The two-storey building was built as an administrative centre in 1929 using belian wood.

During WWII, it acted as a temporary headquarters for the British and Australian forces.

As of 2016, the building was reportedly still in a depleted state and overrun by jungle.

Apart from fort Long Akah, fort Lio Mato is another fort located along the Baram river.

Also neglected, this fort is located only 50km from the border with Kalimantan.

Historically, it was used during Sarawak-Indonesia confrontation in the 1960s.

18. Fort Brooke in Nanga Meluan, Julau (1935)

Asun Paing was a former penghulu born in the late 19th century in Julau.  He led a rebellion against the Brooke government over taxation.

To halt his revolt, the Brooke built a fort in Julau in 1935.

Over the years, it was used as a district council office and police station.

After years of neglect, it was repaired under a project funded by the Ministry of Tourism in 2012.

Do you know any forts in Sarawak which are not listed here?

Let us know in the comment box.

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Marianne North and her fascinating journey as botanical artist in Sarawak

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While North America had the Klondike Gold Rush in the late 1800s, other people in the Victorian era were rushing to satisfy a scientific obsession – collecting natural specimens.

This obsession for new discoveries and adventure brought many collectors and explorers to Borneo’s door, including notable botanical artist Marianne North.

A life of travel

North was born in Hastings, England on Oct 24, 1830. Her father Frederick North was a member of parliament for Hastings and a deputy lieutenant as well as a Justice of the Peace.

After her mother Janet died in 1855, North travelled frequently with her father and sister. They visited Switzerland, Austria, Spain, Italy, Greece and the Bosporus in Turkey.

She received her first lessons in oil painting from renowned Australian colonial artist Robert Hawker Dowling in 1867.

She had been painting throughout her life, starting with flower painting to cope with the grief after her mother’s death and again after her father’s death in 1869.

With a large inheritance North received, she started to travel from 1871 to 1885. She visited 17 countries, painting 800 illustrations of their native plants and flowers.

And she did all of this while travelling alone, reportedly in Victorian dress.

Thanks to her influential family, North was able to visit countries all over the world and was welcomed by their respective ambassadors, ministers and governors.

One of those government administrators who hosted her was Sarawak’s second White Rajah, Charles Brooke.

Marianne North’s visit to Sarawak

Margherita
A visitor looking at a portrait of Ranee Margaret on display at The Brooke Gallery at Fort Margherita.

When she arrived in Sarawak in 1876, Charles was not in town to welcome her visit.  His wife, Ranee Margaret stepped in to host this Victorian painter instead.

The Ranee wrote about her guest in “My Life in Sarawak”.

“One morning, as I was watching the arrival of the mail-steamer from my verandah at Kuching, I noticed the figure of a tall European lady standing on deck.

“A few moments after, a messenger brought me a letter from Singapore from the Governor’s wife, Lady Jervois, introducing a traveller to Sarawak, whose name was Marianne North.”

“The first evening of her stay in Kuching we went for a row on the river, and the sunset behind Matang was, as she said, a revelation. That land of forests, mountains, and water, the wonderful effects of sunshine and cloud, the sudden storms, the soft mists at evening, the perfumed air brought through miles and miles of frost by the night breezes, were an endless source of delight to her.”

Her views on the Dayaks

Despite being extensively travelled, North had a strong opinion of the Dayaks who were still practicing head-hunting at the time.

Margaret wrote:

“(Marianne North) could not bear the thought of either Dyaks or Kayans. I could never eradicate from her mind the idea that they were savages. I used to try and interest her in these people, for I longed that she should accompany us in our journeys into the interior, but this she would never do.
“’Don’t talk to me of savages,’she would say; ‘I hate them.’ ‘But they are not savages,’ I would reply, ‘They are just like we are, only circumstances have made them different.’
‘They take heads; that is enough for me’, she would add severely.”

How Marianne North influenced the Ranee

North stayed with the Brookes for about six weeks.

During her short stay with the Ranee, North managed to open her eyes more to the beauty of Sarawak’s biodiversity.

Margaret stated, “… I felt that something new and delightful had come into my life, for she had not only introduced me to pitcher-plants, but to orchids, palms, ferns, and many other things of whose existence I had never dreamed. Miss North was the one person who made me realise the beauties of the world. She was noble, intelligent, and kind, and her friendship and the time we spent, together are amongst my happiest memories.”

The story of Nepenthes northiana

Marianne North
A copy of Marianne North’s Nepenthes northiana displayed at the Brooke Gallery at Fort Margherita.

Nepenthes northiana is an endemic pitcher plant found in Borneo. The species was named after North who was the first one to illustrate the species.

During her stay, North made friends with Herbert Everett who was working for the Borneo Company then.

Everett went up to the mountainous area in Bau to get her this plant.

North wrote about the discovery for The Gardeners’ Chronicle:

“The specimens grew on the branches of a tree about 1000 feet above the sea on the limestone mountains of Sarawak. When I received them I tied them in festoons all around the verandah, and grumbled at having only one small half-sheet of paper left to paint them on.”

Regardless of the size of the painting, thanks to North’s illustration, Sarawak became known as a land of exotic plants in the late 19th century.

The painting of Nepenthes northiana is now on display at the Marianne North Gallery at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.

Read more:

Charles Hose and his love affair with Sarawak

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Top 3 exciting things to do at Gunung Gading National Park, Lundu?

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Gunung Gading National Park 3
Welcome to Gunung Gading National Park!

Gunung Gading National Park is one of the most accessible places in Sarawak to view Rafflesia blooms.

Gazetted in 1983, the national park is a conservation area for this majestic plant.

The park is located about 80km from Sarawak’s state capital Kuching, near the small town of Lundu.

It is known for its stunning biodiversity and is a popular destination for nature lovers, hikers, and those interested in exploring tropical rainforests.

The park is around 4,300 hectares in size and offers a variety of ecosystems, from tropical lowland forests to montane regions.

The name Gunung Gading was believed to come from a tree called engkabang gading (Shorea hemsleyana).

However, according to the book National Parks of Sarawak by Hans Hazebroek and Abang Kashim Abang Morshidi, it’s name comes from a legend behind this mountain.

There were three celestial princesses from Gunung Roban in Java, Indonesia.

The princesses were guardians of Gunung Gading Puteri Gading, Gunung Perigi Puteri Sri Giar and Gunung Sebuluh Puteri Sri Geneng.

They loved to bathe and play in the seventh waterfall. They also planted flowers called Sri Gading on the mountain.

It is said that if you manage to find these flowers, you will be showered with good luck.

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What should you do on Gunung Gading?

Here are the three things you can do at Gunung Gading National Park (on top of looking for a good luck charm):

1.See Rafflesia

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Come and visit Rafflesia in Gunung Gading.

Regardless if you are a celestial princess or not, the only flower that matters in this national park is the Rafflesia.

Gunung Gading National Park is home to the endemic Rafflesia tuan-mudae, named after Charles Brooke, the second White Rajah of Sarawak.

This rare and huge flower is a highlight of the park. Known for its strong odor (often described as rotting flesh), it blooms for only a few days a year, making it a unique and sought-after sight. The park is one of the few places where you can find this remarkable flower.

Since the Rafflesia is a rare flower with a short flowering period, plan your visit carefully.

You can check in with the park headquarters at 082-7355714 on whether the flower is in bloom.

2.Climb to the top of Gunung Gading National Park

Gunung Gading National Park 8
The sound of a splashing waterfall can be heard along the trail to the summit.

Visitors can opt to climb to the top of Gunung Gading although there is no picturesque view awaiting you.

It has a a sign telling you something to the effect of “this is it, you’ve reached the top”.

The climb will take up to eight hours for a round trip so plan to start hiking early in the morning.

Do not forget to pack a lot of water, some food for an energy boost and a bag to carry your trash back with.

3.Visit the waterfalls

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The two-tiered Waterfall no 7 awaits you.

Follow the path of the celestial princesses and take a dip in any of the waterfalls.

The waterfall trails pass seven waterfalls but not all of the waterfalls are accessible.

The easiest trail is to Waterfall 1 while the two-tiered Waterfall 7 is the furthest to reach (about 1 hour depending on your stamina).

Every waterfall is a perfect bathing pool offered by Mother Nature for us to relax in so don’t leave any trash behind.

Last but not least, do wear long pants or leech socks as, based on my personal experience, those creepy-crawlies can pop up unexpectedly. So better be safe than sorry!

Gunung Gading National Park
Doesn’t this look so relaxing?

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8 fascinating pecies of hornbills you can spot in Sabah

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Sarawak might be called the “Land of the Hornbills” but plenty of these birds also call neighbouring state – Sabah – home.

Nature lovers or avid bird watchers will find this Sabah Tourism Board infographic handy as it details the types of hornbills which can be found there along with their measurements from head to tail.

hornbills

Check out how else these hornbills differ from each other:

1. Bushy-crested hornbill (Anorrhinus galeritus)

Bushy-crested hornbills prefer roaming around subtropical and tropical lowland areas.

It is a dark-coloured bird and its tail is grey-brown with a broad black tip.

Its diet include figs, fruits, cockroaches, mantis and millipedes.

2. Asian black hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus)

We would not be able to enjoy durian if it were not for this particular hornbill.

Asian black hornbill is known to be a major durian seeds disperser.

The bird is black overall except for its broad white-banded outer tail and its pale yellow casque.

3. Oriental-pied hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)

The oriental-pied hornbill is a black and white bird with a white belly and thighs. The casque, however is yellowish.

The male has a larger casque with few black marks while the female has a smaller casque with more black marks.

This hornbill is considered more common among the Asian hornbill.

4. Wrinkled hornbill (Rhabdotorrhinus corrugatus)

One characteristic of the wrinkled hornbill which stands out are its blue eye rings.

Plus, the males and females of the species look like they come from different families altogether.

The male’s bill is yellow with a red base and its casque is brown on the lower mandible while the bill and casque of the females are almost completely yellow.

Males have bright yellow feathers on the neck, chest and cheeks, but they are black in the females.

5. White-crowned hornbill (Berenicornis cormatus)

With white crown feathers on its crest, this particular hornbill is like the Andy Warhol of its kind.

It can be easily distinguished by its white head, neck, breast and tail while the remaining plumage is black.

It is also known as the long-crested hornbill or white-crested hornbill.

6. Wreathed hornbill (Rhyticeros undulatus)

Also known as the bar-pouched wreathed hornbill, you can recognise it by its yellow inflatable pouch on its throat

The casque is corrugated and it has overall black plumage with short white tail.

Males and females of wreathed hornbills look similar but the females weigh averagely lighter than the males

7. Rhinoceros hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros)

Like the rhinoceros, this hornbill has a huge bill and casque which come in orange and red.

The males’ eyes are red with black rims while the females have white with red rims.

The plumage is mostly black with white legs and its white tail has a black band.

It enjoys mostly fruit but will eat insects, rodents, small reptiles too.

8. Helmeted hornbill (Rhinoplax vigil)

First of all, this hornbill has a very heavy head. Its casque accounts up to 11 per cent of its 3kg weight.

It has mostly blackish plumage, except that the belly and legs are white.

The throat is wrinkly; pale blue to greenish in colour in females and red in males.

Where to find them?

Now that you can roughly tell these hornbills apart, where can you find them in Sabah?

According to Sabah Tourism Board website, all eight species can be spotted in one place- the Kinabatangan River – the second longest river in Malaysia and renowned for its diverse ecosystem.

Besides hornbills, the river also plays home to proboscis monkeys, orangutan and Asian elephants.

Time to pack the binoculars and a field guide book and head to Kinabatangan!

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6 nature attractions near Kuching city for you to discover

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So you are now in Kuching city and you are looking for an accessible, green place to go to.

Fret not, here are the six nature attractions near Kuching city you visit and enjoy a day out with Mother Nature.

1. Santubong National Park

Kuching city
Mount Santubong.

Santubong National Park is about 40 minutes drive from Kuching city.

Here visitors can climb to the top of Mount Santubong, take a dip in the waterfall or simply enjoy the rainforest.

There is no accommodation at the national park but there are handful of resorts and homestays nearby.

2. Kubah National Park and Matang Wildlife Centre

Come and explore Kubah Waterfall.
Come and explore Kubah Waterfall.

Kubah National Park is situated about 22km from Kuching city.

It is rich in floras and is a scientifically important site for palm trees.

One 1992 study by Katherine Pearce found that there are 86 species of palm trees in the area, 16 of them only found in Borneo.

You can choose to climb to the top of Mount Serapi or go for trekking in search of waterfall at Kubah.

Next to Kubah is Matang Wildlife Centre where endangered species such as orang utans are rehabilitated and released into the forest.

Beside saying ‘hi’ to the orang utans, visitors can also go for jungle trekking at one of the four trails here.

3. Sama Jaya Nature Reserve

Imagine New York’s Central Park but a thousand times smaller. (Okay, it’s only approximately eight times smaller. New York’s Central Park covers 341 hectares, while Sama Jaya Nature reserve spans 38.)

Much like Central Park, however, Sama Jaya is a small patch of forest in the middle of an urban area located at Stutong.

Just a 10-minute drive from Kuching City centre, the nature reserve is famous among joggers as it offers two jogging tracks at 870 metres and 1600 metres respectively.

As the jogging tracks wind through this urban jungle, do not be surprised if you spot some local wildlife.

According to Sarawak Forestry website, here you can find squirrels, shrew, fruit bars, frogs, lizards and monkeys.

Other perks this reserve offers is the Hiroshima-Sarawak Friendship Garden, forest biology museum and an ethno-botanical garden.

4. Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nature Reserves

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Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nature Reserves are located at Bau bazaar, just half an hour’s drive from Kuching city.

The two caves are located 8km from each other.

There are plankwalks available for visitors to explore the caves.

Keep your eyes open to spot various species of bats, squirrels and birds at these nature reserves.

5. Semenggoh Nature Reserve

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Here is another great place to visit the orang utan. It has a wildlife centre for the rehabilitation of rescued orang utan.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve is 20km away from Kuching.

The best time to visit Semenggoh is during feeding times. It usually takes place between 9 to 10am and between 3 to 3.30pm.

6. Bako National Park

Bako
Bako National Park, one of tourists favourite spot to visit while in Kuching city.

Sarawak’s oldest national park, Bako National Park requires a boat-ride to visit but is still accessible from Kuching city.

It is a nature lovers’ paradise where visitors can opt for bird watching, beach-strolling or jungle trekking.

It takes about 45 minutes from Kuching to Bako market. From there, it takes another 20-minute boat ride to reach the park.

Here you can spot proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaque monkeys and bearded pigs roaming around the park.

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Mount Serapi: 5 reasons why you seriously need to climb this scenic mountain

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Mount Serapi located at Kubah National Park is one of the two mountains that can be easily spotted from Kuching city.

Together with Mount Selang and Mount Sendok, they make the three summits of the Matang Range.

Famous among locals and foreigners alike, Kubah National Park offers jungle trails for trekkers and waterfalls to dip in.

It offers six trails for visitors to explore including a path leading up to the summit of Mount Serapi.

If you are looking to strike “climb a mountain” off your bucket list, Mount Serapi is a good place to start.

Mount Serapi
The view as far as the eyes can see from the top of Mount Serapi.

Even if you have no interest in hiking or are ‘allergic’ to nature, here are some reasons why you should consider climbing Mount Serapi at least once in your life:

1. It is accessible from Kuching!

Mount Serapi.
You can easily spot this communication tower resting on top of Mount Serapi from Kuching.

Kubah National Park is located 20 km from Kuching city, very accessible indeed.

Thanks to its distance, it is famous among day trippers. However, the park offers lodging too if you are planning to stay overnight.

Even if it is near Kuching, plan your ascent as early as you can. Then you can avoid the afternoon heat and take your time on your climb.

2. Your shoes won’t get muddy.

Mount Serapi
A tarred road leads all the way up to the summit.

The best part about climbing to the top of Mount Serapi is *drum roll please* there is a tarred road leading all the way up to the top!

So you can ditch wearing your expensive hiking footwear and even the affordable adidas kampung and take your usual running shoes.

Even so, it is crucial to invest in a pair of good shoes that fit perfectly.

A pair of loosely fitted shoes will hurt when you are descending from the summit; your feet will be sliding forwards and your toes repeatedly hitting the inner part of your shoes. And yes, I’m speaking from personal experience.

3. It only takes less than 4 hours to reach the top

It takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.
It’s a quick trek up, but has lots of rest stops along the way.

Depending on your stamina, it takes about 3 to 3 1/2 hours to reach to the top.

Some seasonal runners and trekkers can finish the round up trip even in five hours.

There are plenty of rest stops along the way, so take your time.

4. You can listen to the sound of nature

Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.
Enjoy the sound of nature before feasting your eyes with this view.

You can always enjoy the sounds of cicadas, frogs, birds and insects along your way to the top.

Or swing by at the frog pond and listen to the world’s most beautiful sound.

In 2014, nature recordist Marc Anderson won a competition sponsored by The Sound Agency with a recording he took at Kubah National Park’s frog pond.

The recording won the Most Beautiful Sound in the World.

If you are familiar with birds’ call, Kubah is also one of the best places in Kuching where you can hear them.

Among the birds highlighted by Sarawak Tourism Board found here in Kubah are Blue-banded Pitta, Red-naped Trogan, Rufous-backed Kingfisher and many more.

For visiting birders out there, remember to bring your binoculars.

5. Do it for the view!

Last but definitely not least, climb up to the summit of Mount Serapi for the view.

There is a viewing platform for climbers to enjoy the scenic view of Kuching, Mount Santubong and the coastline of Southwest Sarawak.

If you are good at geography, perhaps you can spot which mountain peaks mark the border with Indonesia.

Mount Santubong too offers great view from on top but the climb to the top is not for all.

Mount Gading in Lundu is another option for climbers. Sadly, there is no views from the top, only a sign saying you have reached the summit.

The best option for an achievable climb and comes with a great view near Kuching, choose Mount Serapi instead.

Read more:

3 easy trails in Bako National Park you must visit

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Rafflesia plant: 10 things you should know about this distinctive flower

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Rafflesia, a flowering plant with no leaves and almost no stem, can easily be identified by its five leathery, speckled petals.

There are about 28 species of Rafflesia in the world, the most renowned being Rafflesia arnoldii.

Many visitors are willing to fly in just to see this plant in its natural habitat.

Here are ten things you need to know about this unique plant.

Rafflesia tuan-mudae found in Gunung Gading National Park.
Rafflesia tuan-mudae found in Gunung Gading National Park.

  1. The ‘largest flower in the world?’

One particular species, Rafflesia arnoldii, holds the record as the largest single flower of any flowering plant in terms of weight.

The largest measurement is 105 centimeters found at Palupah Nature Reserve, Sumatera. R. arnoldii and can weigh up to 11 kg.

  1. A parasitic plant

It lives as a parasite on several vines of the genus Tetrastigma which grow only in primary rainforests.

Almost like a fungi, an individual Rafflesia grows as thread-like strands of tissue completely embedded within its host cells in which nutrients and water are obtained.

  1. Is it a real plant?

It basically challenges traditional definitions of what a plant is.

This is because it lacks chlorophyll and is then unable to photosynthesise.

A study revealed that one species found in the Philippines, Rafflesia lagascae has no chloroplast genome, presumably because of its parasitic lifestyle.

This earned it the title of first land plant without a chloroplast genome, which was thought to be impossible before.

It also lacks any noticeable leaves, stems, or even roots; nonetheless it is still considered a vascular plant.

  1. Another corpse flower?

The unique plant has a piercing, repulsive smell, almost like rotting meat prompting many locals to call it the ‘corpse flower’.

The foul smell is to attract insects such as flies, which transport pollen from male to female flowers.

But another plant, titan arum (Amorphophallus titanium) has also taken the title as corpse flower or ‘bunga bangkai’ in Malay.

Like the Rafflesia, titan arums are also found in Indonesia and Malaysian Borneo.

Furthermore, its odour is described more like the smell of a rotting animal.

A view of the inside of a Rafflesia.
A view of the inside of the flower. 

  1. It takes a long time for it to bloom

Generally, the flowers can take up to ten months to develop from the first visible bud to its full bloom.

Once in full flower, the bloom may last no more than a few days.

  1. Only found in certain regions of the world

All of the species can only be found in South East Asia.

These areas included peninsular Malaysia, Sumatra, Java, southern Thailand, Borneo and southern Philippines.

  1. Some species can only be found in Borneo

Home to one of the oldest rainforests in the world, Borneo also has its own several endemic Rafflesia species.

These species include Rafflesia keithii, Rafflesia pricei, Rafflesia tuan-mudae and Rafflesia tengku-adlinii.

Found along the slopes of Mount Kinabalu, Rafflesia keithii is endemic to Sabah.

It was named after Henry George Keith, former Conservator of Forests in Sabah.

Another Sabah native is Rafflesia pricei which was named after an amateur botanist William Price. Price discovered this species on Mount Kinabalu in 1960.

Mount Kinabalu was not the only mountain which Rafflesia called home in Sabah.

Rafflesia tengku-adlinii was discovered on Mount Trus Madi in 1987. This species was named after Sabahan conservationist Datuk Dr Tengku D.Z. Adlin.

  1. It was believed first discovered by Louis Deschamps but named after somebody else

A French doctor and explorer, Louis Auguste Deschamps was believed to be the first foreigner to see the Rafflesia.

He collected specimens and found Rafflesia in 1797 on the island of Nusakambangan. While Deschamps was making his way home in 1798 with his collection, the ship was taken by the British when approaching the English Channel.

The British, with whom France was at war, confiscated all his notes and specimens. It was only until 1954 when his possessions were rediscovered in the Natural History Museum, London.

About 20 years after Deschamps made his discovery, British botanist Dr Joseph Arnold’s local guide found the flower in the Indonesian rainforest in Bengkulu in 1818.

Eventually, the flower was named after Sir Thomas Raffles, the leader of the expedition.

  1. An official flower

Being one of a kind, it is not a surprise that this unique plant has been picked as an official flower.

In Indonesia, locally called the ‘padma raksasa’, the Rafflesia arnoldii is one of the three national flowers with the other two being the white jasmine and moon orchid.

It is also the official flower for Sabah, Malaysia and Surat Thani Province, Thailand.

  1. Threats 

 All known species of this so-called corpse plant are threatened or endangered. Their habitats are highly localised making them even more vulnerable to extinction.

These threats included land clearing, logging and ethnobotanical collecting.

The flowers can take up to 10 months to develop from the first visible bud to its full bloom.
The flowers can take up to 10 months to develop from the first visible bud to its full bloom.

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Guam Rail and other recent species recoveries you should know about

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According to an updated report of The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, conservation efforts have led to improvements in the status of ten species.

This includes the recovery of the Guam Rail, a bird previously listed as Extinct in the Wild.

Despite these improvements, the IUCN Red List now includes 30,178 species threatened with extinction.

The report also finds there is increasing evidence of the negative effects of climate change. There are now 112,432 species on the IUCN Red List.

“This IUCN Red List update offers a spark of hope in the midst of the biodiversity crisis,” said IUCN Acting Director General, Dr Grethel Aguilar.

“Though we have witnessed 73 genuine species declines, the stories behind the 10 genuine improvements prove that nature will recover if given half a chance. Climate change is adding to the multiple threats species face, and we need to act urgently and decisively to curb the crisis.”

So what are the conservation success stories

The latest IUCN Red List update reveals genuine improvements in the status of eight bird species and two freshwater fishes.

Captive breeding, combined with careful management of wild populations, has been key to these conservation successes.

Among these improvements is the flightless, fast-running Guam Rail (Hypotaenidia owstoni).

It is the second bird in history to recover after being declared Extinct in the Wild, after the California Condor (Gymnogyps californianus).

Once widespread on the Pacific island of Guam, its numbers declined after the Brown Tree Snake (Boiga irregularis) was accidentally introduced at the end of World War Two.

In 1987, the last wild Guam Rail was killed by this invasive predator.

Thanks to a 35-year captive breeding programme, the Guam Rail is now established on the neighbouring Cocos Island.

However, the bird is still classified as Critically Endangered – one step away from extinction.

Guam Rail © Greg Hume CC BY SA 3.0 1
Guam Rail at the Cincinnati Zoo.
© Greg Hume

Other species

In Mauritius, the Echo Parakeet (Psittacula eques) continues its recovery thanks to conservation efforts. This effort included a highly successful captive breeding programme.

There are now more than 750 Echo Parakeets in the wild. With this update the species has been reclassified as Vulnerable, following its improvement from Critically Endangered to Endangered in 2007.

Two freshwater fish species – the Australian Trout Cod (Maccullochella macquariensis) and Pedder Galaxias (Galaxias pedderensis) – have likewise improved, from Endangered to Vulnerable and Critically Endangered to Endangered respectively.

Decades of conservation action have focused on establishing additional subpopulations through reintroductions and wild-to-wild translocations.

Both species face threats from invasive species and habitat destruction and degradation.

Increasing evidence of the effects of climate change

Despite these successful conservation stories, climate change has contributed to the declines of species. Some of them are several freshwater fishes and the reef-dependent Shorttail Nurse Shark.

Assessments in this update show climate change affects species by, for example, altering habitats and increasing the strength and frequency of extreme weather events.

This Red List update reveals that 37 per cent of Australia’s freshwater fish species are threatened with extinction.

Of this number, at least 58% are directly impacted by climate change.
Fish are highly susceptible to extreme droughts caused by declining rainfall and increasing temperatures.

Climate change also compounds the threat from invasive alien species, which can move into new areas as water temperature and flow change.

Native to the Western Indian Ocean, the Shorttail Nurse Shark (Pseudoginglymostoma brevicaudatum) has declined by approximately 80% over 30 years.

Simultaneously affected by unmanaged fishing and climate change, it has moved from Vulnerable to Critically Endangered.

Living only in shallow waters where it has no refuge from fishing, the shark is losing its habitat due to coral reef degradation caused in part by ocean warming.

Climate change is also threatening Dominica’s national bird, the Imperial Parrot (Amazona imperialis).

While hurricanes naturally occur in the Caribbean, their increased frequency and intensity result in high bird mortality and habitat destruction, alongside devastating impacts on people.

The species declined from Endangered to Critically Endangered after Hurricane Maria in 2017, the strongest hurricane on record to have struck the island. There are now estimated to be fewer than 50 mature individuals left in the wild.

Eucalypts assessed worldwide

Rainbow Eucalyptus © Thomas Caldwell CC BY SA 2.0
Rainbow Eucalytpus (Maui Garden of Eden, Hawaii)
© Thomas Caldwell

All known eucalypt species worldwide have been assessed in this Red List update, revealing that almost 25 per cent are threatened with extinction.

Of the 826 eucalypts – comprising the Eucalyptus, Corymbia and Angophora species groups – 812 occur only in Australia.

As keystone species, they define the landscape of the entire Australian continent, and are culturally significant to its First Nations People.

Eucalypts including the Vulnerable Eucalyptus moluccana are the sole food source for the Koala (Phascolarctos cinereus), which has declined significantly due to loss of eucalypt habitat.

Elsewhere in the world eucalypts can be highly invasive, but in their native range in Australia they face threats from human use of land, especially agriculture and urbanisation.

This has resulted in population declines of at least 30% for 134 eucalypts, such as the Endangered Rose Mallee (Eucalyptus rhodantha), which has declined by more than 50%. Mining also threatens some restricted range species, such as the Critically Endangered Eucalyptus purpurata.

Critical habitat for conservation now remains in the areas between rivers and land, on roadside patches and in paddocks where lone trees often remain.

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5 things you need to know about the black orchid

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The black orchid (Coelogyne pandurata) is such a unique plant that it is the official mascot for East Kalimantan province.

Also known as anggrek hitam in the Indonesian language, this orchid can be found in all three countries on Borneo; Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei.

Unlike popular belief, it is not endemic to Borneo. It is also found in Sumatra, Peninsular Malaysia and the Philippines.

The orchid is an epiphyte found on large trees located usually near rivers.

Here are five things you need to know about the black orchid:
Black Orchid 2
Coelogyne pandurata
1.It is called black orchid but it is not entirely black

According to the book Orchids of Sarawak, stories of a mysterious black orchid from deepest Borneo has been told for years and people ask if such a plant really exists.

So you can only see the black coloured part of the flower for a short period of time because it blooms only five to six days.

“Although the flowers are predominantly a most striking lime-green, large areas of the lip are stained with a truly black pigment as though black ink had been splashed upon it.”

If you smell it closely, the bloom emits a honey-like fragrance.

2.It is first described by John Lindley way back in 1853

The flower might be rare to see, especially in bloom, but it is not new. English botanist John Lindley (1799-1865) was the first one to have described the black orchid, publishing about it in the Gardener’s Chronicle in 1853.

He wrote, “We are indebted for this striking species to Mr Loddiges, who informs us that it was imported from Borneo by Mr Low. The lip, although really oblong, yet in consequence of the manner in which the sides are bent down, has much the form of a violin.”

However, Lindley never commented about the black markings on the orchid.

3. Its alleged medicinal purposes

In some parts of rural Kalimantan, the black orchid is boiled and used as herbal medicines.

The flower is believed to have many medicinal purposes including for heartburn, diarrhea, stomach ulcers and even tuberculosis.

However, none of these have been scientifically proven.

Black Orchid
The mascot of East Kalimantan province.
4.The myth behind the black orchid

While some believed that it can be a cure for various diseases, it is also believed that the flower can be a curse.

Legend in Indonesia has it that anyone who is in possession of the black orchid or even attempts to culture it will obtain bad luck.

Perhaps the myth spread to prevent people from harvesting the flower and subsequently reducing its population in the wild.

5.Some of the environmental threats against the black orchid

Speaking of its population, according to World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Indonesia, some of the threats this orchid faces are forest burning and land clearing due to agriculture activities.

Since this plant is an epiphyte relying on large trees to grow, loss of jungle could immediately affect the population of black orchid.

Here in Sarawak, all orchids are listed as ‘protected plants’ under the Wildlife Protection Ordinance 1998.

According to the law: “Any person who collects, cultivates, cuts, trims, removes, burns, poisons, in any way injures, sells, offers for sale, imports, exports or is in possession of any protected plant or any recognizable part or derivative thereof, except under and in accordance with the terms and conditions of a licence issued under this Ordinance, shall be guilty of an offence: Penalty, imprisonment for one year and a fine of RM10,000.”

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10 interesting facts about Indonesia’s Kapuas River

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Borneo has often been referred to as the Amazon of Asia thanks to its high density biodiversity. So if Borneo is the Asian Amazon, the ‘Amazon river’ of this island is none other than the Kapuas river.

Here are 10 interesting facts you need to know about Kapuas River, Indonesia

1.It is the longest river in Indonesia

At 1,143 kilometers in length, it is the longest river of Indonesia and the island of Borneo.

It is also the world’s longest river. The delta of Kapuas river is at Pontianak, the capital of West Kalimantan Province.

Kapuas river
An early morning view of Kapuas river from Semitau.

2.Wait, there are two Kapuas riverS?

There are actually two Kapuas rivers flowing from the same mountain range. One Kapuas river flows west into the South China Sea. Meanwhile, the other Kapuas river flows to the south, merging with the Barito Sea and ends at Java Sea.

3. Kapuas river originates from the Muller mountain range

Both Kapuas rivers originate from the Muller Mountain Range, located south of the Indonesian-Malaysian border.

The mountain range was named after Major Georg Muller. He was a soldier and even fought for Napolean Bonaparte when France attacked Russia.

So how did a European army end up in the middle of Borneo in the 19th century?

Born in Mainz, Germany in 1790, Muller joined the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army in 1817.

He took part in the Dutch attack against the Sambas kingdom in 1818.

In 1825, he led an expedition to cross Borneo inland via Mahakam and Kapuas rivers. However, the expedition ended in tragedy when he and his party were killed by the local Dayak tribe.

4.There are two national parks on its river banks

Betung Kerihun and Danau Sentarum are the two national parks located at Kapuas river banks.

Together with Lanjak Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary in Malaysia, Betung Kerihun has been proposed as a World Heritage site.

Meanwhile, Danau Sentarum National Park lies in the upper Kapuas river tectonic basin some 700 kilometers from its delta.

5. It is an important source of water and mode of transport

If you spend an early morning in any town located next to the river, you can catch some of the local people doing their daily chores.

You can see young children in large groups before going to school while the women do their washing on the wooden jetties.

Although roads are available to connect most parts of West Kalimantan, the Kapuas river is still the major waterway connecting the centre of Borneo with its western coast.

6.The Kapuas river and its flora and fauna are any researchers’ dream subject

Many researchers believe there are still many new species to discover in Borneo, especially small creatures

The most recent fascinating species found in the river is the Kapuas mud snake back in 2005. German and American researchers discovered it accidentally when it was put in a dark bucket and changed colour 20 minutes later.

The snake has chameleon-like behaviour which allows it to change its epidermal colour spontaneously.

In addition to that, tropical rivers are unlike rivers in temperate zones. To this day, researchers are still gathering more information on hydrology and geomorphology of tropical river system.

7. It has a high density of fish species

There are about 300 fish species recorded in the river basin. The most iconic one is none other the super red arowana fish. It is only found in Kapuas river and is a famous species in the aquarium trade.

Sadly, the species is continuously decreasing because of wild poachers and low productive rates.

8. There are other remarkable species too

Apart from the super red arowana fish, there is one striking fish species found in Kapuas river.

Only officially described in 2008, the eight-banded barb (Eirmotus insignis) is a small zebra-striped fish which measures about 3.6cm in length.

It was found between the towns of Sanggau and Putussibau, among overhanging tree roots and aquatic vegetation.

Where can you find the world’s first lungless frog? In Kapuas river, of course! The Bornean flat-headed frog breathes entirely through its skin.

Scientists first discovered the frog in the middle of Kapuas river basin back in 1978.

9.The longest bridge in Borneo crosses this river

The Tayan Bridge is the longest bridge in Borneo spreading over 1,975 meters. It crosses the Kapuas River in Sanggau, West Kalimantan to connect West Borneo with Central Borneo in Indonesia.

10.You can take a tour upriver from Pontianak

It takes up to two days on the deck to travel up Kapuas river from Pontianak depending on your mode of transportation. In Pontianak, there are travel agencies which can help you to plan a trip upriver if you are feeling adventurous. Plus, there are plenty to see along the river from local villages with different architecture to wildlife that might pass your way.

Go to the furthest upstream and you would find yourself in Tanjung Lokang. Located about 13 hours from Putussibau town by speedboat through Kapuas river, the village belongs to the Dayak Punan.

It is the last village in the Borneo jungle when you are heading east across the island.

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