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What happens in the afterlife according to various Dayak traditional beliefs?

What happens in the afterlife? There are so many various ideas to explain what takes place in life after death.

One of the most common belief systems is that the dead go to a specific place or realm after death based on divine judgement based on their actions when they lived.

Another common belief is that the dead start a new life but in different forms after death. This concept is what we know as reincarnation.

As for the Dayak people of Borneo, what happens in the afterlife really varies according to each ethnic group.

Each Dayak community has its own interpretation of where the dead goes after the soul leaves the body.

What happens in the afterlife according to various Dayak traditional beliefs?

With that, here are some of the Dayak beliefs on what happens in the afterlife:

1.Iban

James Brooke in his diary stated that, “The Sea Dayaks in general have a distinct notion of a future state which is often mention in their conversation. There are different stages before reaching it – some agreeable, and others the contrary and their final abode, or as it appears dissolution, is a state of dew. Their burial rites all tend to support the idea of a future state; but oral traditions being so liable to alteration, there is now no very clearly defined account, as different people give different statements, but nevertheless agree in the main points, and fully expect to meet each other after death.”

2.Kayan

According to Spencer St John, the Kayans believe in a future state and in a supreme being -Laki Tengangang.

He stated, “When the soul separates from the body, it may take the form of an animal or a bird, and as an instance of this belief, should a deer be seen feeding near a man’s grave, his relatives would probably conclude that his soul had taken the form of a deer, and the whole family would abstain from eating venison for fear of annoying the deceased.”

Charles Hose in his paper Mount Dulit and the Highlands of Borneo (1893) explained even further about Kayan people and their afterlife.

“There is another strange ceremony at which I was once present, called ‘Dayang Janoi’, in which the dead are supposed to send messages to the living, but to describe it would take too much of this paper. It proves, however, that spiritualism is of very ancient practice among the Kayans, but it would perhaps be interesting to mention the various abodes of departed spirits, according to Kayan mythology. ‘Laki Tengangang’ is the supreme being who has the care of all souls. Those who die a natural death, of old age or sickness, are conveyed to ‘Apo Leggan’, and have much the lot as they had in this world.

‘Long Julan’ is the place assigned to those who die a violent death, e.g., those killed in battle or by accident, such as the falling of a tree, etc. Women who die in child-bed also go to ‘Long Julan’, and become the wives of those who are killed in battle. These people are well-off, have all their wants supplied; they do no work and all become rich. ‘Tan Tekkan’ is the place to which suicides are sent. They are very poor and wretched; their food consists of leaves, roots, or anything they can pick up in the forests. They are easily distinguished by their miserable appearance. ‘Tenyu Lallu’ is the place assigned to still born infants. The spirits of these children are believed to be very brave, and to require no weapon other than a stick to defend them against their enemies. The reason given for this idea is that the child has never felt pain in this world, and is therefore very daring in the other. ‘Ling Yang’ is the place where people go who are drowned. It is a land of plenty below the bed of the rivers, and these are the spirits upon whom riches are heaped in abundance, as all property lost in the waters is supposed to be appropriated by them.”

3.Melanau

Meanwhile, the former Baram resident Claude Champion de Crespigny (1829-1884) had this recorded about the Melanau people’s afterlife.

“The Melanaus believe in another world which is like this, having rivers, seas, mountains and sago plantations. There is one supreme deity named Ipu. All people who had met with a violent death, except those just alluded to, had their paradise in different place from that which constituted the abode of those dying naturally, a country further back. The Melanau believe that, after a long life in the next world, they again die but afterwards live as worms or caterpillars in the forest.”

4.Dayak Embaloh

According to Victor King, a professor in Borneo studies, the Embaloh people are a subdivision of that complex of peoples which their close neighbours the Iban and the Kantu call ‘Maloh’ or ‘Memaloh’ and ‘Maloh’ is derived from the word ‘Embaloh’.

They inhabited mostly the Upper Kapuas region of West Kalimantan, Indonesia.

As for their belief in the afterlife, King explained, “Embaloh believe that every human being has a main spirit or soul (sumangat) which is usually thought to reside in the head. People say that this spiritual essence cannot be seen, although they know it is there while a person is healthy, awake and working. A person becomes sick when the soul leaves the body and wanders abroad. If it should reach the Land of the Dead (Telung), then the person will almost certainly die.

“The soul leaves the body during dreams, and at this time it is very susceptible to being enticed away be evil spirits (antu ajau), which usually inhabit caves, uplands, tree-trunks and jungle. It is the task of the village medical expert to retrieve this lost soul in order to cure sickness.”

5.Dayak Modang

Modang is a generic term covering a complex of culturally related groups living in the Kutai Regency of Kalimantan Timur, Indonesia, along the Mahakam River and its tributaries.

They are comprised of five river-based groups including Long Gelat, Long Belah, Long Way, Wehea and Menggae.

When Norwegian explorer Carl Bock (1849-1932) visited Dutch Borneo from 1878-1879, he had the opportunity to visit the Dayak Long Way.

This is what he recorded about their afterlife in his book The Headhunters of Borneo.

“Immediately after death the spirit goes to a certain tree called Patoeng, or Wateng Ladji, resembling a carved idol, which lies in across his path. Going on further, the spirit comes to a kampung, the head of which is a woman named Dijon Ladji. Proceeding still further, the departed comes to another village, where the chief is also a woman, named Dikat Toewan Ballang. Still wandering, the dead arrives at the third village, the name of whose chief, also a female, is Longding Dakka Patai. On the spirit goes to another kampong, whose chief is named Kapung Lunding Dakago, and again to a fifth village, where another female chief is met, by name Longding Dahak.

“We have followed the departed through no less than five villages or kampungs. The scene now changes to a river running from a mountain called Long Mandin; this stream is of course sacred and is guarded by two women, one named Talik Bong Daong, the other Sasong Luing Daong. The country where the river runs, and wherein all these kampongs are situated, is known by the general name of Long Luing. As the confused story here ends, I presume the dead is now lodged in Paradise.”

How little we know about Joseph Middleton, Sarawak’s first police officer

Joseph Middleton might be an unfamiliar name to Sarawakians today, but he was actually the first police officer of Sarawak.

He was one of the two boys who departed England with James Brooke on the Royalist in 1838.

Unfortunately, there is a little we know about Middleton during his first arrival to Sarawak.

However, we do know that he was referred to in 1852 as ‘Constable’.

It is also known that he married a local woman. One record showed that he had a son named Peter who was baptised in Kuching on Dec 3, 1848.

Apart from this, we know that he was almost killed during the Bau rebellion.

Joseph Middleton was one of the three targets of the Bau Rebellion

On Feb 18, 1857, some 600 Chinese came down through the Sarawak River to attack the White Rajah in Kuching.

By the time the group had reached Kuching, Brooke already fled from his home.

This did not stop the rebels from burning down properties including Brooke’s house.

According to The Gospel Missionary issued in June 1884, the Chinese announced they did not want to make war on the English or the Malays, only on the Rajah’s government.

The report stated, “It did seem as if it was chiefly a rebellion of revenge, for the only three people they had been anxious to kill were the Rajah himself, and Mr Crookshank, and Mr Middleton, who were the chief constable and the magistrate who had sentenced the offending Kunsi and actually done the flogging. If they could kill these three they did not seem to care how many others they killed.”

Joseph Middleton during the Bau Rebellion

How little we know about Joseph Middleton, Sarawak’s first police officer
Illustration depicting the Chinese Insurrection from Harriette McDougall’s Sketches of Our Life at Sarawak. Credit: Public Domain.

The rebels certainly did not care how many they killed that fateful night as in the end, they took the lives of Middleton’s two young children.

The Sarawak Gazette revisited the event in an article published on Mar 1, 1929.

It stated, “Two little boys, John and Charles Middleton, aged six and four years, were killed and ‘the fiends kicked the little heads with loud laughter from one to another’. Richard Wellington, a clerk in the Borneo Company, lost his life in gallantly attempting to defend Mrs Middleton and her children.”

So where was Middleton when his house was attacked?

According to Brooke who published his own narrative of the event in the Wellington Independent on Sept 5, 1857, Middleton’s house was one of the earliest places where the attack took place.

The Rajah wrote, “He (Middleton) escaped with difficulty. His poor little wife hid in a bakery till the burning rafters fell about her, and from her concealment saw the assailants kicking about the head of her eldest child. The mother was paralyzed; she wished, she said, to rush out but could not move. The youngest child was murdered and thrown into the flames.”

Joseph Middleton and the second class Europeans in Sarawak

Other than the Middleton family’s tragic fate during the rebellion, there was no significant information about the constable.

According to archivist Loh Chee Yin who wrote for the Sarawak Gazette in 1960-70s, Middleton presumably still held the roll of Constable until his death in Kuching in 1866.

Middleton is unlike some of Brooke’s early officers whose names are immortalised through street names in Kuching such as Crookshank.

Hence, it is easy to forget there was a man named Middleton who came to Sarawak from England as a boy and lived here till his death.

Perhaps it was because Middleton was considered a “second-class European” in Sarawak at that time.

During the resistance led by Syarif Masahor in 1857, Bishop Francis McDougall wrote a letter to his brother in-law.

McDougall narrated in the letter, “I hear that there has been a regular panic at Sarawak among the wives of the second-class Europeans, who all packed up and wanted to start for Singapore, but their fears have been allayed, and only Mrs Middleton, who suffered so much in the insurrection, persists in going.”

The so-called ‘caste system’ among the Europeans in Sarawak is believed to have started due to the different systems of salutes during Brooke time.

At that time, there were three forms of salutes given. The first class was full arms salute, the second class was arm across body to rifle butt, and third class was simply attention.

Those who were entitled for the first class salute included the Bishop, the Commandant of Sarawak Rangers, the Treasurer and the Principal Medical Officer.

Posts such as Magistrates, Superintendent of Works and Surveys Department, Medical Officers, Inspector of Police and Prisons were given the second class salute.

Finally, the third class salute was given to the junior officers and cadets.

The Sarawak Gazette reported, “It is said that this system of salutes caused a sort of caste system among the Europeans since the local people began to refer to them as first, second and third class Europeans instead of officials.”

Middleton, who was sometimes referred to as the Police Inspector, fell into the second-class European category.

Regardless, as Loh pointed out, Middleton had “the distinction of being the first police officer in Sarawak.”

Celebrating Sabah and Sarawak pride with artistic icons on Carlsberg Special Edition cans

Celebrating Sabah and Sarawak pride with artistic icons on Carlsberg Special Edition cans
Carlsberg presents Sabah and Sarawak’s special-edition packaging in appreciation of their
beautiful heritage, traditions, and natural wonders

SHAH ALAM, 28 March 2022 – Building on the success of its Gawai and Kaamatan Festivals’ limited-edition packaging last year, Carlsberg Smooth Draught presents six artistically designed special-edition
cans and bottles this year to celebrate the pride of Sabah & Sarawak. The eye-catching mural that perfectly wraps each product centres around bringing people together to appreciate and celebrate the bountiful art and culture of the stunning Borneo islands.

Sporting six unique icons in vibrant colours, the ‘Sabah & Sarawak Pride’ packaging sublimely accentuates the lush local nature and rich culture in an illustrative composition, showcasing a masterpiece of contemporary art and beer. The creative artworks feature icons such as the Orangutan, majestic mountains and Rafflesia of Sabah and the Longhouse, Hornbill and Sape of Sarawak.

Aptly themed ‘Raikan Kebanggaan Sabah & Sarawak’, this campaign pays tribute and recognition to the beautiful culture of the natives, extraordinary wildlife, and amazing natural wonders. Available in 320ml cans and 580ml bottles, these iconic Carlsberg Smooth Draught products are made exclusively for Carlsberg consumers in Sabah and Sarawak and will be introduced in three phases through island-wide consumer promotions. The first two designs were revealed in March, followed by another two in conjunction with the coming Gawai and Kaamatan festivals and the final two to be unveiled towards the last quarter of the year.

“Sabah and Sarawak are both well-known for their diverse people, languages, traditions and festivities, so is Carlsberg, a brand that celebrates, and pays homage to that distinction that the locals carry so proudly. Last year, our first-of-its-kind festive cans in conjunction with the Gawai and Kaamatan festivals had such an amazing reception. This year, we wanted to step it up a notch, by rendering some of the most notable local icons into works of art, using our products as the canvas,” said Stefano Clini, Managing Director of Carlsberg Malaysia.

Visit https://carlsbergsabahsarawak.com to find out more about promotions in-store. ‘Like’ and ‘Follow’ @CarlsbergMY on Facebook and Instagram for Carlsberg’s latest activities and giveaways.

Of course, as part of living a safe and responsible life, we advocate responsible consumption, always remember if you drink, don’t drive – #CelebrateResponsibly.


Kenelm Hubert Digby: The Attorney General of Sarawak Once Accused of being a ‘Communist’

One of the most interesting figures that ever graced Sarawak’s service during the reign of the Brooke family was none other than Kenelm Hubert Digby.

Digby first joined as a district officer under Rajah Charles Vyner Brooke in 1934 and returned to England in 1939 at the end of his contract.

Digby returned again to Sarawak as Legal Adviser to the Rajah in the spring of 1940.

When the Japanese invaded Sarawak during World War II, Digby was among the civilian internees held at the Batu Lintang camp.

After the war, Digby returned to Sarawak where he resumed the role of Legal Adviser under the Sarawak Civil Service.

From there, he rose to become the Attorney-General as well as the editor of the Sarawak Gazette.

His last post in Sarawak was as a circuit judge which ended in 1951.

Kenelm Hubert Digby and the MI5

So what made Digby ‘a colourful figure’ during his time in Sarawak?

It all started when Digby was still a student at St John’s College, Oxford.

During a debate in the Oxford Union in 1933, Digby proposed the motion “That this House would in no circumstances fight for its King and country.” The motion was passed with 275 votes for and 153 against it.

The ‘Oxford pledge’, as it became known, was controversial at the time, causing friction between older and younger generations, idealisms of pacifism and patriotism. The motion was passed and followed by a nationwide furore.

Thanks to the debate, Digby was a figure of interest for various security intelligence organisations.

In the book MI5, the Cold War and the Rule of Law by Keith Ewing, Joan Mahoney and Andrew Moretta, it is stated that MI5 ‘had scouts in both the Labour and Communist clubs at Oxford at the time, Digby appearing as a member of both’.

It is reported that his mail was routinely inspected in Singapore while en route to Kuching when he was working in Sarawak.

Digby’s move back to Sarawak in 1940 had also caused MI5 some anxiety.

“This anxiety was fuelled in part by the fact that Digby had joined the secret Communist Party Lawyer’s Group (CPLG),” wrote Ewing, Mahoney and Moretta.

After the war, Digby was still under surveillance even when he was working in the Colonial Office.

When the Sarawak colonial government was re-organising their judiciary system in 1951, it gave them the opportunity to get rid of Digby. The governor did not renew his service in Sarawak, obviously due to his political views.

Years later, Digby published an interesting memoir about his life in Sarawak entitled ‘Lawyer in the Wilderness’ (1980).

He shared some funny encounters he had, and his work life as well as getting caught in Sarawak political scene before and after the war – including getting sued by Anthony Brooke.

Was Digby’s service in Sarawak terminated because he was a suspected communist?

In the last part of his book ‘Lawyer in the Wilderness’ (1980), Digby told his part of the story in terms of his political views.

He stated, “Since the day I had first landed in 1934 , I had been notorious for my somewhat unorthodox views on public questions, but nobody had ever suggested that they unfitted me for the duties which were entrusted to me. The most stupid of the Residents, who ruled my early life, had once asked me seriously whether I was a ‘communist agent’, and the Rajah had on one occasion laughingly inquired whether I was a ‘communist.’

“Sir Charles Arden Clarke once kept the Chief Secretary and myself back from a Supreme Council meeting, and informed me that there was an unfortunate rumour in Sarawak that I was a communist, and that it would be so disagreeable if it should be breathed abroad that the Attorney-General of Sarawak was a ‘red’, that he would be obliged if I would refrain from airing my opinions publicly.”

Digby also revealed that Sir Clarke once called him an hour or two before he gave a talk at St. Thomas Secondary School on ‘The Meaning of Democracy’.

During the phone conversation, the governor reminded Digby to ‘not get too far away from the Government’s line’.

Ultimately, Digby wasn’t a communist, but he was a proud socialist. He believed that everyone should have the freedom to express their own views especially if their personal opinions didn’t affect their jobs.

He added, “… it is rubbish to pretend that judges and other civil servants are wholly at liberty to hold their own views so long as those views do not interfere with their duties. Judges and other civil servants are independent; they are free to form their own opinions and to indulge in discussions with their friends; but they are independent and free only so long as those opinions and discussions conform with the ‘Government line’.”

Even though his Oxford pledge past had haunted and dogged Digby, it’s important to remember how it is this same courage and belief in individual freedom that made him stand out for Vyner Brooke and his vision of empowering Sarawak with a constitution that promoted self-government. If it wasn’t for the Second World War, Sarawak may have seen the fruits of Vyner’s labour in the 1941 Sarawak Constitution which was drafted to realise the Nine Cardinal Principles.

Besides his political views, Digby shared a number of colourful stories in his memoir. Here are some of the tales from Kenelm Hubert Digby’s memoir:

1.When he confessed to pronouncing the bride’s name wrongly when officiating a marriage in Miri

“Towards the end of February 1935, I returned to Miri. Shortly after my arrival there it fell to my lot, in the temporary absence of the District Officer, to perform a civil marriage between two Indians. The prospective husband, with some such name as Govindasamy, was employed as a clerk in Seria by the oil company.

The prospective bride, Naoomal, hailed from some unpronounceable village in India. Strange though it may seem this was the first wedding which I had ever attended and I was naturally a little confused and embarrassed.

Influenced, I suppose, by the fact that Seria is obviously a more appropriate name for a girl than Naoomal, I misread the form in front of me by assuming that the names of the parties followed one another horizontally instead of vertically.

Consequently I married the bridegroom to the town in which he lived instead of to his bride. It was as if a registrar in England had said, “I declare you, Horatio Pifflington, and you, Stow-on-the-Wold, man and wife together.”

The mistake was pointed out to me after the ceremony was over. The marriage certificate did not repeat the error and I hope that it has continued to sanctify a union not nearly marred at its birth by a blunder of officialdom.”

2.On becoming a ‘real’ Sarawakian

“Some administrative officers never got tired of pointing out to me that Miri was not ‘the real Sarawak’ and that short visits to Sibuti, Niah, and the Limbang river did not compensate me for the degrading effect of the flesh-pots.

There was a horrible old saying that a man did not become ‘a real Sarawakian’ until he had “had the clap twice and been sick in his soup three times.”

That, of course, was a fantastic exaggeration of the attitude adopted by some of the older officers, but it cannot be disputed that that attitude, to a substantial degree, not only condoned but encouraged hard drinking and other minor vices, and, to some extent, despised the appearance in Sarawak of amenities imported from Europe.

In particular, a bachelor officer was considered to be a little queer if he did not ‘keep’ a native or Chinese mistress, but the critics were honest enough to admit that this omission was more excusable in Miri than in the lonelier out-stations.

A cadet, on his first arrival in Kuching, was interviewed by a doctor, who gave him a lecture on ‘tropical hygiene’ and presented him with a little box labeled “Outfit B,” the contents of which were designed to protect the user against incurring venereal disease.”

3.When Digby’s census in Sarawak didn’t quite add up

“There was the answer which the interpreter gave me on his own initiative, and without interpreting my question, when I attempted to ask a Chinese father, who reported six boys and no girls, what he had done with his daughters: ‘Sold them; I bought one myself, but as I didn’t really want it, I gave it away to a policeman.’

Lastly there was the other Chinese father, who, strangely enough, reported five daughters, and then chased me across ten acres to inform me that since my departure from his house he had lined the girls up and re-counted them and now made the total six.”

Can you imagine telling the officer from Department of Statistics today that you sold your daughter off or you miscalculated how many children you actually had?

4.Digby’s favourite prisoner in Simanggang

“My favourite prisoner was Benito Sosa, a Filipino, who was about half-way through a ten-year sentence, which was a commutation of the death penalty imposed on him for murdering a constabulary sergeant, who had been misconducting himself with Mrs. Benito Sosa, by thrusting the stem of an ordinary tobacco pipe through one of his eyes.

Benito was a skilled musician, who, prior to his misfortune, had played some instrument or other in the Constabulary Band. His official prison appointment was that of green-keeper on the golf-course , but he was seldom to be found on the job when I made my daily round of the gangs.

Faint, melodious sounds from the direction of the Resident’s stables would denote that Benito had once again rigged up a violin from a piece of wood and a few strands of wire, and was now sitting on a box beside the ponies entirely lost in his own musical dreams. He would grin cheerfully when reproached for his inattention to duty, and return temporarily to his greens.”

According to the Sarawak Gazette, Sosa’s sentence was commuted from death sentence to fifteen years’ imprisonment by the Rajah. He was found guilty for the murder of Delfin Arca, his fellow bandsman for the Sarawak Rangers.

5.How life as a civilian internee during the war had changed him

“Internment had by no means been pure loss. We had all of us learnt at least a little for our own good. It would be presumptuous to suggest to what extent others had improved themselves, but it was commonly agreed that three or four hard drinkers had been given a new lease of life.

I myself had learned how to count up to ten in Japanese, and a few Japanese military expressions; how to ‘Use an axe and a changkol; how to grow the easier kind of vegetables; how to play bridge; more chess openings than I had ever known before; a smattering of short hand; how to walk along stony roads in bare feet with a heavy load on my back; that I could perform hard manual labour, three-quarters naked, in the tropical sun, without any covering for the head even at noon; the dispensability of whisky and all other strong drink a few miles from the Equator; and how to walk warily before power and adapt myself to the military mind. I had read every play of Shakespeare’s once and most twice and I had studied many commentaries on them.

Above all, I had learned a great deal more about the behaviour of my fellow-men in adversity. My years of internment immensely improved my opinion of human nature.”

For his service in Sarawak, Digby was awarded the Companions of the Star of Sarawak in 1941.

In 1955, he migrated to New Zealand with his family. Digby passed away on Aug 5, 2001.

Kenelm Hubert Digby: The Attorney General of Sarawak Once Accused of being a 'Communist’
Digby’s relationship with his wife Mutal Fielding was the center of Derek Round’s book Barbed Wire Between Us (2002). While Digby was interned in Batu Lintang, Mutal was interned at the Stanley Internment Camp in Hong Kong.

What happened in January according to Sarawak history?

Did you know that the name January comes from the Roman god, Janus? He is always depicted with two heads with one head looking back on the year before and the other looking forward to the brand new year.

Let us look back into Sarawak history and see what happened in the month of January:

Jan 22, 1851: Consecration of St Thomas’s Church Kuching

What happened in January according to Sarawak history?
Bishop Daniel Wilson

The first Anglican missionary, Reverend Francis Thomas McDougall first arrived in Sarawak in 1848.

He came here on the invitation of the first White Rajah of Sarawak James Brooke.

Brooke gave the missionary a hill covered in dense jungle to build a church upon.

McDougall started the construction of a wooden church to accommodate up to 250 people.

On Jan 22, 1851, the Bishop of Calcutta, Daniel Wilson consecrated the church in honour of St Thomas the Apostle.

What happened in January according to Sarawak history?
Bishop Francis McDougall

Jan 4, 1856: Sarikei was burned down by the Ibans from Julau

The Ibans from Julau resisted the Brooke government and on Jan 4, 1856, the so-called rebels burnt down Sarikei bazaar.

In response, James Brooke set up a fort in Sarikei in the same month to suppress the upriver Iban people.

It was built to serve Brooke allies led by locals Abang Ali and Abang Asop.

Jan 19, 1864: Britain recognises Sarawak as an independent state

As part of Britain’s recognition of Sarawak as an independent state, the British appointed George Thorne Ricketts as the first consul.

Ricketts was a former soldier who served with the British army in India and Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) from 1849 until his retirement from the army in 1858.

Prior taking up the job as a consul in Sarawak in 1864, Ricketts worked in the consulate at Monastir (now Bitola in the Republic of Macedonia) and as the acting consul-general at Belgrade, Serbia.

He worked in Sarawak for two years before he was transferred to Manila in 1866.

Jan 3, 1876: Second Gambier and Pepper Proclamation issued

Chinese farmers had been planting pepper and gambier in west Sarawak way before 1870s.

To further encourage these agricultural activities, Charles Brooke issued a proclamation regarding the gambier and pepper plantation in January 1876.

The proclamation offered gambier and pepper planters 99 years leaseholds at nominal rentals.

The second White Rajah also waived export duty and on pepper and gambier for the following twelve years for those who brought their own capital to Sarawak.

Jan 13, 1884: Belaga Fort completed

On Jan 13, 1884, the Belaga Fort was officially declared completed by the Brooke government.

It was later named Fort Vyner after the third White Rajah Charles Vyner Brooke.

Jan 20, 1884: The Great Fire of Kuching

On Jan 20, 1884 at 1:05 am, a big fire started from the intersection between Attap Street (present day Carpenter Street) and China Street.

The fire continued to spread and consumed much of the shophouses.

Only at 6am, the fire was put out by rain.

In the end, a total of 160 shophouses were burnt.

Jan 3, 1885: Cession of Trusan to Sarawak

Trusan river was the first district within the Fifth Division to be acquired by the Brooke in early 1885.

Reportedly, 20 Sarawak produce collectors went to Trusan to buy some jungle produce a year earlier. They were killed by the Murut people there.

The Sarawak government complained to the Sultan of Brunei but the sultan said he could not do anything about it.

Instead, the Sultan ordered the holder of tulin (hereditary private property) rights in Trusan to surrender the area for an annual payment of $4,500.

Then in 1885, the Trusan river basin was officially ceded to Sarawak.

Jan 1, 1897: Dog licensing introduced in Kuching

Also in January 1897, Sarawak dollar was worth one shilling and eleven pence.

January 1899: Cambridge expedition to Torres Straits visits Limbang and Baram

What happened in January according to Sarawak history?
A portrait sketch of Charles Hose. Credit: Public Domain.

A small group of Cambridge scholars led by the anthropologist Alfred Cort Haddon arrived in Sarawak as guests of Charles Hose, the then resident of the Baram district.

During their expedition, they took hundreds of photos of the people and places of the Baram, Limbang, Brunei and Kuching.

They even caught the famous Marudi peace-making ceremony 1899 in photos.

It is reported these rare photos of Sarawak have remained in storage at the University of Cambridge Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology.

What happened in January according to Sarawak history?
Alfred Cort Haddon

January, 1901: Arrival of the first Foochow immigrants in Sibu

In May 1900, Christian scholar Wong Nai Siong acted as the harbour master to signed a resettlement contract with the Brooke government.

By September that year, he began recruiting villagers to immigrate to Sibu.

Then on Dec 23, 1900, the first batch of 91 Foochow immigrants departed for Sibu.

They arrive in January 1901. However, some of them changed their minds during the journey leaving only 72 people arrived in Sibu.

January, 1905: The cession of Lawas

Charles Brooke signed an agreement with British North Borneo Company (BNBC) which saw the official handover of Lawas river to the Brooke government in exchange of 5000 pounds and several administrative areas around Brunei Bay to BNBC.

BNBC had obtained the administrative rights of the Lawas river from Brunei Sultanate on Sept 7, 1901 in order to stop the smuggling of weapons against the BNBC government in North Borneo.

Jan 13, 1928: Simanggang bazaar destroyed by fire

Simanggang bazaar was destroyed by fire on Jan 13, 1928. Then, a new bazaar consisting of 48 shops was completed in December 1929.

Descriptions of some races and towns in Sarawak according to Harry de Windt

Sarawakians might not be familiar with Captain Harry de Windt but his sister should be more familiar.

His sister Margaret was the wife of second White Rajah Charles Brooke.

Best known as a travel writer and explorer, de Windt at one point did work as the aide-de-camp for his brother in-law when he was only 16.

As for his writing career, de Windt’s first book On the Equator (1882) featured his travel stories in Sarawak, Dutch East Indies and Spain.

He shared his own perspectives and views of the people and the places he visited such as Santubong, Batang Sadong, Sibu, Kanowit and Kapit in 1880.

Descriptions of some races and towns in Sarawak according to Harry de Windt
Harry de Windt pictured in his From Paris to New York by Land (Copyright expired-Public Domain).

Here is how Harry de Windt described some of the towns and races he encountered in his book On the Equator (1882):

1.Kuching

Descriptions of some races and towns in Sarawak according to Harry de Windt
The Astana from the book On the Equator.

“Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, although smaller than Pontianak and other Dutch settlements on the coast of Borneo, is generally acknowledged to be the first town in Borneo so far as civilisation and comfort are concerned, and is renowned for its Bazaar, which is the best-built and cleanest in the island. There are two good roads extending at right angles from the town to a distance of seven miles each, at which point they are united by a third. These form a pleasant drive or ride, an amusement unknown in most Bornean townships, where the jungle and undergrowth are usually so dense as to defy any attempts at walking, to say nothing of riding or driving.
The number of Europeans in Kuching, although limited, and consisting of but some twenty in all (five of whom are ladies), form a pleasant little coterie, and there is a marked absence of the scandal and squabbling which generally seems inseparable from any place wherein a limited number of our countrymen and women are assembled. The occasional presence of an English or Dutch man-of-war, also, breaks the monotony of life, and enlivens matters considerably.

The Club, a comfortable stone building, was founded by the Government a few years ago, and contains bedrooms for the use of out-station officers when on a visit to Kuching. A lawn-tennis ground and bowling alley are attached to it, and serve to kill the time, which, however, rarely hung heavily on our hands in this cheerful little place.
Riding and driving are but still in their infancy, and Kuching boasted of only some dozen horses and four carriages—including a sporting little tandem of Deli (Sumatra) ponies, owned by the Resident. The Deli pony is a rare-shaped little animal, standing from 13 hands to 13.2, with immense strength, and very fast. They would be worth their weight in gold in Europe, and an enterprising Dutch merchant lately shipped a cargo of them to Amsterdam from Singapore, via the Suez Canal, with what result I never ascertained. A new road was being cut when we were there from Kuching to Penrisen, a mountain some thirty miles off, which, when completed, may bring a few more horses here; but Borneo (except far north) can never become a riding or driving country.”

The Club de Windt referred to here is The Sarawak Club which was established in 1876, four years before the writer arrived in Kuching.

2.Sibu town


“Sibu is a clean-looking Malay town of some 30,000 inhabitants. All Malays living here are exempt from taxation on condition that they are liable to be called out by Government in the event of any disturbance among the up-river tribes. The Fort and Bazaar stand on an island in the centre of the river, which is here about one and a half miles broad, and are connected with the town on the right bank by a wooden bridge. “Fort Brooke,” as it is styled, is built in a pentagon of solid bilian (belian) planks, about 12 feet high; a sloping wooden roof reaching down to within 2½ feet of the plank wall. This interval is guarded by a strong trellis-work, so that when the fort door is shut the building is rendered perfectly secure against any native attack. The Resident’s and fortmen’s quarters are reached by a ladder inside the fort about eight feet high, while the ground floor is used as a kitchen, rice-store, &c. Fort Brooke is garrisoned by sixteen Malays, and armed with six nine-pounders. All forts in Sarawak are built of the same materials and on the same model as the above, excepting that at Kuching, which is of stone, and much larger.”


Fort Brooke was built in 1862, and believed to be located at present day Jalan Channel.
Unfortunately, the fort was demolished in 1936.

3.The Iban People

“The Sea Dyaks are so called from their inhabiting the sea-coast east of the Sadong district, as far as the Rejang river, though some are to be occasionally met with far inland. These, who are the most numerous of any Dyaks, are at the same time the bravest and most warlike, and in former days were greatly addicted to piracy and head hunting. They are of a dark copper colour, and although not tall men are wonderfully strong and well-built, and will endure a great amount of fatigue. They are also endowed with great courage, and are very skilful in the use of weapons, especially the Parang ilang and spear. This tribe has been found by missionaries to possess some small amount of religion, inasmuch as they believe in the existence of a Supreme Being, Batara (petara), who made this earth and now governs it. They believe, also, in good and evil spirits, who dwell in the jungles and mountains. Sickness, death, and every kind of misfortune, are attributed to the latter, while Batara is the accredited author of every blessing.”

Descriptions of some races and towns in Sarawak according to Harry de Windt
Batang Sadong from de Windt’s book.

4.The Kanowit People

“The Kanowits are a small tribe, numbering about 500, and are quite distinct and totally unlike any other race in Borneo. They have not unpleasant features, are of lighter complexion than the Dyaks, and, though not so warlike, are fine, strongly-built men. Nearly all were tattooed from head to foot with most intricate patterns, and others representing birds, beasts, fishes, &c., while round the face and throat the marks were made in imitation of a beard, an ornament which none of the tribes yet met with in Borneo possess.

“These (Kanowit) women were fair specimens, as we were afterwards informed, of the tribe, and were, like the men, tattooed from head to foot. But for the disgusting habit (which I shall mention anon) of blackening their teeth and disfiguring the lobes of their ears, they would not have been bad-looking. They wore a light brown petticoat of cloth woven by themselves, and reaching from the waist to just above the knee. Their hair was not left to fall loose, but tied tightly into a knot at the back of their heads, very much as it is worn in Europe at the present time. A few brass rings round their waists and arms completed their attire. Strangely enough, the Kanowit women are, as a rule, darker than the men.”

Today, the Kanowit people are mostly known as the Melanau Kanowit or Rejang people.

5.The Ukit People

“The Ukits are generally supposed to be the wildest specimens of the human race yet et with in Borneo. This tribe (which is the only one living at the head of Rejang not tattooed) has been occasionally but seldom seen in these regions by Europeans, as they shrink from all intercourse with mankind, and fly at the approach of any but their own race. They are described as being of a much lighter colour than the Poonans, possess no dwellings, and are totally unclothed..”


6.The Kayan People

“The Kayans, on the other hand, are the finest and most civilised aboriginal race in the island. Their men, who are of a splendid physique and considerably taller than any other tribe in Sarawak, are of a light copper colour. Their dress is nearly identical with the Kanowits, excepting that they wear many more ornaments, but no turbans. Their long, coarse, black hair streamed in some cases far below the waist, and they were not a little proud of this appendage, which was cut square over the forehead. The Kayans were not at all given to joking like the Kanowits, but all wore an appearance of suspicion and distrust on their faces, which even the genial influence of square face (“Hollands”) failed to banish, but which originated perhaps more from shyness than ill-temper. Their women wore more clothes than any other tribe, being clothed in a long and flowing “sarong,” a species of petticoat, reaching from the waist to the feet, and a white linen jacket.”

So what do you think about de Windt’s descriptions on Sarawak towns or its people? Let us know in the comment box.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation

Also known as Lintang Barracks and Kuching POW camp, the Batu Lintang camp was a Japanese internment camp during the Second World War (WWII).

Unlike other Japanese internment camps, the Lintang Barracks held both Prisoners of War (POWs) and civilian internees.

The camp was originally British Indian Army barracks. The Japanese took it over from March 1942 and extended the original area.

After the Japanese officially surrendered on Aug 15, 1945, the camp was liberated on Sept 11, 1945 by the Australian 9th division.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang camp taken after the Japanese had surrendered:

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
Flying over the prisoner of war camp (POW) in Batu Lintang at a low height, Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) Beaufighter pilots reported sighting white POWs, clad in khaki shorts, who excitedly waved as the RAAF aircraft flew over to drop leaflets announcing Japan’s surrender.

One pilot also reported having seen white women who could have been either nurses or nuns.

Reportedly, there were 160 nuns interned in Batu Lintang camp in March 1944. Of these nuns, a large majority of them were Dutch Roman Catholic sisters with a few English sisters.

This image is believed to have been taken by the navigator of a Beaufighter aircraft possibly of 30 Squadron RAAF, whilst on operations to drop leaflets and to investigate the POW camp on Aug 22, 1945.

The RAAF planes were sent to drop these leaflets all over Sarawak’s First Division.

The leaflet was a foolscap size with a broad orange border.

Read the content of the leaflet here.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A photo taken on Sept 12, 1945. A Japanese guard delivering a fowl to Mrs Iva Penlington of Yorks, England who was interned at the camp, in payment for the two years use of her typewriter.
Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A photo taken on Sept 11, 1945. After the surrender ceremony at Kuching, 9th Australian Division, Kuching Force Commander Brigadier Sir Thomas Charles Eastick, accompanied by Lieutenant Colonel A.W. Walsh, 8th Australian Division ( a POW) and Lieut-Col Tatsuji Suga, Commandant of all POW camps in Borneo, visited Batu Lintang Camp.

A parade was held at which the prisoners were informed of their liberation.

In this photo, a section of the parade sitting in front of Eastick are listening to the address.

After the liberation, Eastick oversaw the liberation and repatriation of Allied POWs and internees in Sarawak.

Subsequently, he became the military governor of Sarawak from Sept 10, 1945 until December.

The last White Rajah of Sarawak Vyner Brooke awarded him The Most Excellent Order of the Star of Sarawak.

It was the highest order of chivalry within the Kingdom of Sarawak.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A group of POWs leaving their compound to board the hospital ship Wanganella. The hut named ‘Australia House’ is in the background.

The camp was divided into different compounds with each person was allotted a very small space within a barrack building.

These compounds included British officers and non-commissioned officers (NCOs), Australian officers and NCOs, Dutch officers and NCOs, other ranks of British soldiers, British Indian Army, Royal Netherlands East Indies Army, Roman Catholic priest and religious men, male as well as female civilian internees.

Agnes Newton Keith, one of many civilian internees

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
Agnes Newton Keith (left) speaking to Major T.T. Johnson (centre) and Eastick (right) after the surrender ceremony,

Keith was an American author and wife to Harry G. Keith.

She arrived in Sandakan in 1934 where her husband was working as the Conservator of Forests and Director of Agriculture under North Borneo Chartered Company.

When Sandakan was first captured by the Japanese on Jan 19, 1942, the Keiths were allowed to stay at their own home.

However on May 12, the couple were imprisoned on Berhala island. They spent eight months there before they were transported to Batu Lintang Camp.

Under the encouragement of her husband, Keith wrote three autobiographical accounts of her life in North Borneo.

Her book Three Came Home (1948) is based on her experience during WW2 and was made into a film of the same name in 1950.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A photo taken on Sept 15, 1945. Internee children being taken for a ride in an Australian field ambulance soon after their release from the Japanese by members of the Kuching Force.

There were 34 children interned at the camp and all of them survived the war.

The women of the camp often went without provision to ensure the children’s survival.

During their internment, the children were taught by the nuns.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A former Japanese guard from Batu Lintang Camp handcuffed on the front of a jeep.
About 8000 captured Japanese soldiers were then held at the camp after they had surrendered.

Life at Batu Lintang Camp

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
Private J. M. Curry who was cook for Australian officers at the POW camp.

Curry is wearing the chawat (loin cloth) issued to him by the Japanese, his only clothing in two years.

The oven was improvised from an officer’s trunk packed round with clay. All the kitchen gear had to be improvised as the Japanese only provided them with two 44 gallon drums.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A typical POW’s bed in the interior of ‘Australia House’.
Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
Former POWs standing around the coffin that has been used in for a burial conducted by a former internee, Father Brown.

Due to shortage of materials, coffins were constructed with a collapsible bottom so that they could be used again.

At first, the dead were buried in coffins but soon the number of fatalities increased.

Toward the end of the war, the bodies were buried in shrouds made from rice sacks or blankets.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
The daily ration of boiled rice for 1200 men in the camp only half filled this pig trough which they used for mixing with sweet potato.

In a war crime trial held against the Japanese soldiers in-charge of Batu Lintang camp, it is revealed that the only meat the prisoners was pig’s heads.

Reportedly, about 400 Allied POWs died of malnutrition in the last 12 months of the war.

The prosecuting officer of the case claimed that the diet fed to the camp’s pigs was more nutritious than the food given to the prisoners.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
The frightfulness of the treatment handed out by the Japanese to their POWs is shown by the emaciated condition of two British soldiers who were evacuated from Batu Lintang camp.

Like many Japanese POW and internee camps, the life in Batu Lintang was harsh.

Both POWs and civilians were suffering from malnutrition, diseases such as beriberi, malaria, dengue and scabies.

The mortality rate among the British soldiers was extremely high with two third of the POW population in the camp.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
A photo taken on Sept 18, 1945. All Japanese soldiers of Batu Lintang camp, were ordered from their quarters, searched and placed in the former British officers compound.
Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
Private H. J.P. Riseley, a former POW, holding his chicken pet as he stands on the verandah of ‘Australia House’.

Check out these photos of Batu Lintang Camp after liberation
The graves of British, Dutch and Australian POWs at Batu Lintang Camp.

By July 1946, all the bodies had been exhumed and reburied in Labuan War Cemetery.

The Labuan cemetery is also the final resting place of soldiers who died during the Japanese invasion of Borneo, the Borneo Campaign 1945 and POWs who perished in the horrific Sandakan Death marches.

Photos by Australian War Memorial. Copyright expired – All Images are under Public Domain.

Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching

If the Tsardom of Russia had their The Winter Palace and the Chinese emperors had their Forbidden City, we Sarawakians have what we call The Astana.

Once called Government House, it is now the official residence of the Governor of Sarawak.

It was built in 1870 by the second White Rajah Charles Brooke as a wedding gift to his wife Margaret Alice Lili de Windt.

The former palace of the White Rajahs is located on the north bank of the Sarawak, opposite the Kuching Waterfront.

One of the early descriptions of the Astana

Meanwhile, Sabine Baring-Gould and Charles Agar Bampfylde in their book A History of Sarawak under its two White Rajahs 1839-1908 had this to say about the building.

“Something must be said of the Astana, the residence of the Rajah and Ranee, which had then just been completed. It is built of brick in three separate sections, with a roof of iron-wood shingles, in appearance closely resembling slates. The illustration will best convey an idea of its exterior appearance, which in the opinion of some has been sacrificed for the sake of internal comfort. However that may be, no more comfortable or cooler house exists in the East. On the first or upper floor of the centre section are the drawing rooms and dining room spacious and lofty, and surrounded by a broad veranda. The side blocks contain the bedrooms, the lateral veranda of which are connected with those of the central block by covered bridges. In the basement are the Rajah’s office, guard room, household offices, bathroom, etc. The entrance is in the tower, in the lower part of which is the main staircase, and above is the billiard room. In a separate building, connected with the main building by a covered passage, are the bachelor’s quarters.

“The well laid out gardens are extensive and contain many beautiful tropical plants. Behind the Astana is the old graveyard of the former Malay Rajahs, in which are some well-carved monuments of ironwood. Beyond the gardens are grazing lands. The Rajah has two cattle farms, and he takes a great interest in rearing cattle, importing pedigree bulls from England to improve the stock in the country. Kuching is almost wholly supplied with milk and butter from the Astana diaries.”

Over the years, the Astana has witnessed so many historical events including the rise and fall of the Brooke era, the Japanese occupation, the British colonial days and now as Sarawak under the Malaysian federation.

It was here that local chiefs and their followers would meet especially those who came from outside of Kuching.

Former British colonial officer Alaistar Morrison stated in his book Fair Land Sarawak: Some Recollections of an Expatriate, “Any prominent personality visiting Kuching, such as Temenggong Oyong Lawai Jau, would normally be accompanied by a number of followers and you would meet them at the Astana receptions. These were prominent people in their own communities and they were perfectly at their ease in the Astana even if they did not wear lounge suits.”

The first reception of the Ranee

Speaking of receptions, the dining hall of the Astana was where the former Ranee Margaret held her first reception back in 1870.

In her book My Life in Sarawak (1913), she wrote,

“The dining room of the Astana was large, and could accommodate about two hundred and fifty guests… Some days before the party, on looking out my sitting room window towards the landing place and the path leading up from it to our door, I saw a number of little boys staggering under the weight of numerous round, red lacquer boxes. These were very large, and I sent for Talip (the butler) and asked him what they were. He informed me that they were to be used for the various cakes and fruit in the same way as we use silver dishes. Talip arranged that on this great occasion we should all sit on the floor round the room, and that the place occupied by the chief’s wife, with myself in their midst, should be set out with piles of gorgeous cushions covered with gold brocade – also borrowed from the houses of my guests. A fortnight or so was occupied in the preparations, and at last the day came to which I had been looking forward so much. I glanced into the dining room in the morning and thought how pretty a meal laid out for Malay ladies looked – very much prettier that the table arrangements at our dinner parties in England. Great strips of white and red material, bought for the occasion in the Bazaar, were laid down both sides of the room with cross pieces at each end. The red boxes were put at equal distances on these strips and between the boxes were dishes with the fruits of the country – mangosteens, mangoes, oranges, pineapples, etc. The red lacquer boxes made beautiful notes of colour all round the room.”

Unfortunately, there is no photo of Margaret’s first reception in Sarawak. One could only imagine how it looked like through her description.

The curse of Astana’s tower

With a building complex that has a history spanning more than a century, it is bound to have its own old wives’ tale.

One of these stories were told by John Beville Archer. He was the former Chief of Section in the Sarawak Civil Service and one of many Japanese internees during the Second World War (WWII).

In a June 1, 1948 issue of the Sarawak Gazette, Archer wrote how Toshinari Maeda’s untimely death might be related to the curse of Astana’s tower.

Maeda was a Japanese general and the first commander of the Japanese forces in northern Borneo during occupation.

“The main entrance of the Astana is the imposing and rather ancient tower overlooking the chief door to the palace.
Now there is a Brooke tradition that the exterior of this tower must not be whitewashed or renovated.
If this should occur, so runs the legend, some disaster will take place.
The tower had therefore became covered by an ivy-like creeper, and parts of the original building were crumbling in venerable decay.
The Japanese, vainglorious and victorious, saw fit to put this ruin into apple-pie order.
The creeper was torn down, masons, plasterers and white washers got busy.
Shortly afterwards Field Marshal Prince Maeda, cousin of the Emperor Sun god and Generalissimo, fell miserably to earth in a crashed plane somewhere round about Miri.”

To be precise, Maeda’s plane crash somewhere off Bintulu when flying from Kuching to Labuan in September 1942.
The wreckage of the plane and his body were never found.

After the war ended, the state became the Crown Colony of Sarawak (1945-1963). The colony was headed by a British governor appointed by King George IV and later by Queen Elizabeth II.

The official residence of the Governor of Sarawak at that time was the Astana.

Here are the photos of The Astana taken during Sarawak colonial days in 1959:

Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The view of the ground behind the Astana where Santubong mountain could be seen in the background.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The swimming pool, tennis court and outside bar behind the Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The fish pond in the Astana grounds.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Sentry outside entrance to the Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Looking across river to Kuching from the tower of the Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The back of the Astana from the grounds.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Another point of view of the former Rajah’s residence.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The front of the Astana, Kuching.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The back verandah.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Governor’s private sitting room.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The hall.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The sitting room in the private secretary’s flat.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Lady Rachel room.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Entrance steps in the Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The dining room with round table.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The air conditioned library in the Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Governor’s bedroom.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The private secretary’s bedroom.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Ranee’s room, Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Round table (seats 9) in dining room.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The games room and comptroller of the household’s desk.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Office of the assistant private secretary underneath the Astana.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Governor’s office
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Duchess room,
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The kitchens.
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
The Governor’s office,
Check out these rare photos of The Astana, Kuching
Bathroom of the Lady Rachel room.

All images are part of the Colonial Office photographic collection held at The National Archives, United Kingdom. There is no known copyright restrictions.

Brooketon, the extraterritorial extension of Sarawak during Brooke dynasty

Many Sarawakians today might not be familiar with Brooketon but about a century ago, it was a mining settlement that was once under the Sarawak government.

What made this settlement special was that it was located in Brunei, not in Sarawak.

During the reign of second White Rajah of Sarawak Charles Brooke, Brooketon was considered an ‘extraterritorial extension’ of Sarawak.

William Cowie and the mine in Brunei

Brooketon, the extraterritorial extension of Sarawak during Brooke dynasty
Brooketon Colliery by the end of 1900. Credit: Public Domain/Copyright Expired.

Before going into how Brooke ‘acquired’ a territory outside of Sarawak, let us take a look into the history of William Cowie.

Cowie was a Scottish engineer, mariner and businessman born in 1849.

He was famously known for helping establish British North Borneo (present-day Sabah) and being the chairman of the British North Borneo Company.

In March 1882, Cowie purchased a 40-year concession for the exploitation of coal fields in Muara town in Brunei.

The Muara coalmine was first commercially mined in 1883.

At the same time, Cowie rented a shipyard in Labuan for 99 years from which he shipped his coal.

Some years later, he wanted to sell his concession rights in Muara and the person who bought the deal was Brooke.

On Sept 6, 1888, Cowie transferred his leases to Brooke for £25,000.

After the transfer, the coalmine in Muara incurred heavy losses from the outset and it was not until 1917 that even a minuscule surplus of $1,527 was shown on a year’s trading.

Rajah Charles Brooke, the de facto ruler of Brooketon

Brooketon, the extraterritorial extension of Sarawak during Brooke dynasty

So why keep a mine that isn’t making money? Charles Agar Bampfylde, the Resident of the First Division of Sarawak (1896-1903) once explained that Brooketon without its coalmine “would be but a small fishing hamlet, that the mine found employment for a great many people.

And that it was “entirely on that account” that Brooke kept the mine open.

Meanwhile, English historian Steven Runciman believed that the Rajah bought the mine “perhaps more from fear that otherwise on the North Borneo Company might take it over than from any great faith in its potentialities”.

There is another possible theory on why Brooke bought the mine.

After Sarawak had acquired Limbang in 1890 from the Brunei sultanate, the purchase of the coal mine and its strategic location near the sea would give the Rajah a stranglehold on Brunei and and bring him closer to fulfilling his ultimate ambition, which was to incorporate Brunei within Sarawak.

According to writer Rozan Yunus in his article Before the Oil, It was Coal, the colliery was strategic as it was very near to Muara town where then and as well as now here is a safe deep-water anchorage to which the mine was connected to rail.

By 1911, there was more than 1,447 people lived in the settlement with about 30 shops.

Rozan wrote, “Politically too, even though he only had economic rights, Rajah Charles became the ‘ruler’ of the area. The mine employed hundred of miners and that required him to introduce a police force, post office and roads transforming Muara into an ‘extraterritorial’ settlement – an extension of Sarawak”.

Thanks to the post office, Brooketon became the first place in Brunei where a postage stamp was issued.

Who came up with the name Brooketon?

While many records claimed that Brooke was the one who named the settlement Brooketon, researcher A.V.M Horton pointed out it was Cowie who came up with the name.

In his paper Rajah Charles Brooke and Mining Concessions in Brunei 1888-1924, Horton wrote, “Mr Cowie had renamed the colliery settlement ‘Brooketon’ in honour of Sir Charles. Subsequently the latter was most touchy on this point: in early 1907, after a British ‘resident’ had been appointed to administer Brunei, he detected a (non-existent) British plot to suppress the name and complained to the colonial office.

“It might be observed, however, that if Brunei Malays were as well disposed towards as some writers have claimed, then it is somewhat surprising that the name ‘Brooketon’ no longer survives.”

The colliery which was known as Muara Coal Mine, was renamed as Brooketon Colliery.

The history of the mining settlement inspired the card game ‘Letters to Brooketon’

Bruneian game creator company Comet Games was so inspired with the rich history of the mining settlement that they created a card game called ‘Letters to Brooketon’.

The imaginary scenario idea behind the game is ‘What if there were local Bruneians who were against Charles Brooke and wanted to sabotage the coal mines?’

In order to play the game, each player is secretly assigned a role as either a Miner or a Mole.

Thus, it is the job of each player to find out who is who as the game progresses, lest they want the opponent to win.

The highlight of the game is deception and how you twist and play against your opponents in every round.

What is left of Brooketon Colliery

The mine was closed in 1924 due to financial losses driven by the decreasing price of coal during the world economic recession.

By then, the mine and its settlement had already returned to Brunei in 1921.

When the Japanese occupied Brunei during the Second World War (WWII) and tried to reopen the mine, they failed.

At the end of the war, the Australian forces landed at Brooketon as part of the Borneo Campaign 1945.

Today, the former fishing/mining settlement has now become Brunei’s primary deep water port with a population of 2,102 in 2016.

As for Brooketon Colliery, all that remains is an overgrown railway, locomotives, mine entrances and an abandoned Morris Minor.

Thankfully, it is currently a protected site under the Antiquities and Treasure Trove Act of Brunei Darussalam.

5 European explorers and their horrific deaths in 19th century Borneo

Borneo in the 21st century is heaven for all adventurers out there. Here you can find a piece of everything, be it a sandy beach or chilly mountain, exotic animals or unique culture; we have it all.

Plus, the people of Borneo are known for their friendliness and generally being good hosts. It is a vast contrast from what it was like two centuries ago.

To be sure, 19th century Borneo would not have made it to any vacationer’s list of ‘places you must visit before you die’, because, well, there was a high chance that you could actually die.

Rampant headhunting, wild animals, tropical diseases, hostile locals and piracy were just some of the cause of deaths for many explorers.

Regardless, these factors did not stop many Europeans from coming to Borneo to explore the island.

Some survived their trips while others met their ends here in Borneo.

Here are five European explorers and their horrific deaths in 19th century Borneo:

1.Robert Burns

Who was he?

He was a Scottish trader and explorer who became the first European to visit Kayan territory in Borneo.

Burns left Glasgow for Singapore in the 1840s and worked on the island with a Scots-owned trading company, Hamilton Gray.

He then first sailed to Labuan where he sought permission to travel to Bintulu.

Burns reportedly set foot in Bintulu around 1847 before making his way to Rajang and Baram rivers to mingle with the Kayan people.

During this time, he learned about Kayan culture, jotting down their vocabulary all the while.

His paper about the Kayan was published in the Journal of the Indian Archipelago and Eastern Asia in February, 1849.

How did he die?

Burns died a horrific death – decapitated by pirates while sailing off the northeast coast of Borneo island.

Aboard the British registered schooner Dolphin, Burns planned to visit the Kinabatangan river to trade.

Somewhere at Maludu bay, a group of pirates managed to disguise themselves as traders and went onboard the Dolphin.

The pirates attacked Burns and his crew when they lowered down their guards as they thought their ‘guests’ were just wanting to trade.

According to the surviving crew, Burns’ head was severed from his shoulder in one blow.

Read more about Robert Burns here.

2.Frank Hatton

5 European explorers and their horrific deaths in 19th century Borneo

Who was he?

Born in 1861, Frank Hatton was an English geologist and explorer.

He joined the British North Borneo Company as a mineral explorer.

His job in British North Borneo (now Sabah) was to investigate the mineral resources in the country.

During his journey, Hatton became the first White man that ever made contact with some of the local tribes such as the Dusun.

How did he die?

Hatton died in 1883 due to accidental shooting from his own gun.

It is believed that his Winchester rifle got tangled in jungle creepers, went off and shot him in the chest.

His last words were in Malay saying to his servant Odeen, “Odeen, Odeen mati saya!” (Odeen, Odeen I am dead!) while resting his head on his servant’s shoulder.

Hatton’s last expedition was to find himself an elephant and acquire its tusks.

If he was to succeed in doing so, Hatton might have been the first European hunter to do so in North Borneo back then.

Read more about Frank Hatton here.

3.Franz Witti

5 European explorers and their horrific deaths in 19th century Borneo

Who was he?

He was a former navy officer in the Austro-Hungarian Empire and one of the first few Europeans to explore the northern part of Borneo.

Witti was hired by the British North Borneo Company in 1877 to make a survey of the natural resources in the area.

But before that he already conducted several surveys on his own.

Witti was also known to be the first person who discovered oil about 26km outside of present-day Kudat town in Sabah.

How did he die?

Witti got caught between a tribal feud of two different Murut groups.

During his last expedition which started in March 1882, Witti arrived in Limbawan somewhere near Keningau.

The local Murut chief named Jeludin warned him and his party not to travel to Peluan because there was a feud between Jeludin’s group of Nabai and Peluan.

However, Witti continued his journey and arrived in a village.

There, his group was ambushed by some hundreds of headhunters reportedly from the Murut Peluan group.

The Murut Peluan group attacked Witti and his party because they were friendly with their enemy, from the Murut Nabai group.

Some reports said that he was killed by a spear while others claimed it was a blowpipe that took his life.

Witti didn’t die without a fight as he killed two men using his revolver.

Read more about Franz Witti here.

4.James Motley

Who was he?

Had James Motley lived longer, it is arguable that he might have been comparable to his near contemporary in Borneo, Alfred Russell Wallace.

Born in 1822, Motley first came to Labuan in 1849 to pioneer coal mining for the Eastern Archipelago Company.

There, he did not have a good relationship with fellow naturalist Hugh Low at that time.

He then left Labuan and spent some time exploring the coast of Sumatra until he found his way in Banjarmasin in the south eastern part of Borneo.

Motley is credited with making the first list of Borneo birds and had collected over 2000 plants in Borneo.

How did he die?

Motley, his wife, two daughters and son were among the 100 Europeans killed during the Banjarmasin War.

The war was a power struggle between Sultan Hidayatullah II of Banjar and the illegitimate grandson of the former sultan Tamjied Illah.

During the war, all the Europeans – including the missionaries – were killed by rebels.

Prior to the massacre, on April 18, 1859, Motley had actually written a letter to his father on the Isle of Man assuring him that there was no need to worry.

A mere 12 days later, Motley and his family were found dead.

Read more about James Motley here.

5 European explorers and their horrific deaths in 19th century Borneo
W.A van Rees’ illustration of Banjarmasin War in 1865. Photo credit: Public Domain/Copyright Expired.

5.Georg Müller

Who was he?

Born in 1790, Georg Müller was a German-Dutch engineering officer who served in the French army during the Napoleonic Wars.

After the Battle of Waterloo, Müller became a civil servant under the Dutch Indies.

As part of his job, he represented the Dutch government to make official contact with the sultans of Borneo’s east coast.

How did he die?

The circumstances surrounding his death remain unconfirmed to this day.

In 1825, he visited the Sultan of Kutai requesting permission to explore the interior part of Borneo.

The sultan was reluctant to give his permission since the area was beyond his territories.

Nonetheless, Müller went up the Mahakam river with a dozen Javanese soldiers.

From here, the details of what happened get blurry.

It is understood that he managed to cross the watershed into the Kapuas basin.

He was killed possibly around mid-November, 1825 somewhere on the Bungan river, at the Bakang rapid.

The general understanding is that Müller and his party were killed by the local Dayak group.

As for which specific group, Dutch explorer Anton Willem Nieuwenheis believed that the Pnihing was responsible for Müller’s death. The Pnihing or Punan Aoheng of East Kalimantan belongs to the Punan Bah ethnic group.

The Müller Mountains, a mountain range in Central Borneo which extends along the northern border of Kalimantan were named after him.

The mountains are the source of the Kapuas watershed where Müller became the first European to visit the area.

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