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The legend of Mount Santubong that you never heard of

Sarawakians for the most part have heard of how the legend of Mount Santubong is one of jealousy and rage between two celestial princesses Puteri Santubong and her sister Puteri Sejinjang.

However, there is another legend that circles around Mount Santubong in which many may have never heard of. The best part is, this legend is a love story.

A Haji and his moonshine

The first Ranee of Sarawak, Ranee Margaret published her bibliography entitled “My Life in Sarawak” in 1913.

In the book, she gave glimpses of her life as the consort to the second White Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Brooke.

The Ranee also shared stories and daily conversations she had with her local friends.

The Brookes had a bungalow at the foot of Mount Santubong to stay when they needed a change of air.

During one of her stays at Santubong, a Malay friend told the Ranee a love story of a Haji and the spirit of Santubong which she penned down in her book.

Legend has it there was a man named Hassan who lived in a house at the foot of Mount Santubong.

He was a religious man; he read the Quran daily, never missed his prayers and had done his pilgrimage to Mecca.

Occasionally, Hassan visited his siblings who were living in Kuching. Little that he knew, the Spirit of Santubong and also the daughter of the moon was watching him with admiration the whole time.

One day, the spirit flew down to Hassan’s house and they became friends. They eventually fell in love and married.

The spirit brought her husband to live with her in the other realm. They were living the happy-ending fairy tale life until the husband started to miss his family in Kuching.

This was what the man said to his wife in the Ranee’s account, “Delight of my life and light of my eyes, forgive me for what I am about to say. I want to go to Kuching to see my brothers and sisters, and to stay with them for a while.”

Reluctantly, the wife agreed. She sent her servants to send Hassan to Kuching but asking him to return in a month’s time.

The legend of Mount Santubong that you never heard of
Mount Santubong jungle.

The husband that had too much fun

When her husband was away, the spirit of Santubong sat on top of the mountain missing her husband.

Meanwhile, the Haji was happy reuniting with his family in Kuching. They had a feast for him and he was enjoying himself.

He was enjoying it too much that he forgot his wife for months (an action that would grant him a divorce in this modern day).

One morning after he was taking his bath at the riverbank, Hassan saw a great black cloud forming over the peak of the mountain.

He rushed to call his servant and made his way back home, only to find it empty and desolate.

Crushed and devastated, Hassan went back to Kuching longing for his wife. One evening, a man on a sampan passed Hassan while he was sitting by the river.

The man told him that his wife was seen on the top of Mount Sipang. Hassan then quickly climbed to the mountain peak only to find she was not there.

After that, he heard another rumour that his wife was seen on Mount Serapi, the highest peak of Matang range.

Again, the Spirit of Santubong was not there.

From there, Hassan sought his wife all over Borneo but he never saw her again. He returned to Kuching and died of a broken heart.

The legend of Mount Santubong that you never heard of
The view that greets you from the top of Mount Santubong.

The secrets of the Earth

The Ranee’s friend (whose name was not recorded) also said this to her, “If you like to go out by yourself, Rajah Ranee, and stand under those trees at midnight, you will hear voices of unknown people telling you the secrets of the earth.”

Margaret of course did not go out to do that but she did regret it. She wrote,

“I wish now I had gone out and listened, for I am foolish enough to believe the secrets told by those musical branches might have been worth listening to, but afraid of the night, of the solitude, and above all, of the criticisms of my European friends, I refrained. I have since come to the conclusion that I have lost a wonderful and beautiful experience which may never occur again.”

Perhaps it was the voices of unknown people who told the Ranee’s friend the story of Hassan and his wife-spirit.

10 interesting facts about Indonesia’s Kapuas River

Borneo has often been referred to as the Amazon of Asia thanks to its high density biodiversity. So if Borneo is the Asian Amazon, the ‘Amazon river’ of this island is none other than the Kapuas river.

Here are 10 interesting facts you need to know about Kapuas River, Indonesia

1.It is the longest river in Indonesia

At 1,143 kilometers in length, it is the longest river of Indonesia and the island of Borneo.

It is also the world’s longest river. The delta of Kapuas river is at Pontianak, the capital of West Kalimantan Province.

10 interesting facts about Indonesia's Kapuas River
An early morning view of Kapuas river from Semitau.

2.Wait, there are two Kapuas riverS?

There are actually two Kapuas rivers flowing from the same mountain range. One Kapuas river flows west into the South China Sea. Meanwhile, the other Kapuas river flows to the south, merging with the Barito Sea and ends at Java Sea.

3. Kapuas river originates from the Muller mountain range

Both Kapuas rivers originate from the Muller Mountain Range, located south of the Indonesian-Malaysian border.

The mountain range was named after Major Georg Muller. He was a soldier and even fought for Napolean Bonaparte when France attacked Russia.

So how did a European army end up in the middle of Borneo in the 19th century?

Born in Mainz, Germany in 1790, Muller joined the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army in 1817.

He took part in the Dutch attack against the Sambas kingdom in 1818.

In 1825, he led an expedition to cross Borneo inland via Mahakam and Kapuas rivers. However, the expedition ended in tragedy when he and his party were killed by the local Dayak tribe.

4.There are two national parks on its river banks

Betung Kerihun and Danau Sentarum are the two national parks located at Kapuas river banks.

Together with Lanjak Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary in Malaysia, Betung Kerihun has been proposed as a World Heritage site.

Meanwhile, Danau Sentarum National Park lies in the upper Kapuas river tectonic basin some 700 kilometers from its delta.

5. It is an important source of water and mode of transport

If you spend an early morning in any town located next to the river, you can catch some of the local people doing their daily chores.

You can see young children in large groups before going to school while the women do their washing on the wooden jetties.

Although roads are available to connect most parts of West Kalimantan, the Kapuas river is still the major waterway connecting the centre of Borneo with its western coast.

6.The Kapuas river and its flora and fauna are any researchers’ dream subject

Many researchers believe there are still many new species to discover in Borneo, especially small creatures

The most recent fascinating species found in the river is the Kapuas mud snake back in 2005. German and American researchers discovered it accidentally when it was put in a dark bucket and changed colour 20 minutes later.

The snake has chameleon-like behaviour which allows it to change its epidermal colour spontaneously.

In addition to that, tropical rivers are unlike rivers in temperate zones. To this day, researchers are still gathering more information on hydrology and geomorphology of tropical river system.

7. It has a high density of fish species

There are about 300 fish species recorded in the river basin. The most iconic one is none other the super red arowana fish. It is only found in Kapuas river and is a famous species in the aquarium trade.

Sadly, the species is continuously decreasing because of wild poachers and low productive rates.

8. There are other remarkable species too

Apart from the super red arowana fish, there is one striking fish species found in Kapuas river.

Only officially described in 2008, the eight-banded barb (Eirmotus insignis) is a small zebra-striped fish which measures about 3.6cm in length.

It was found between the towns of Sanggau and Putussibau, among overhanging tree roots and aquatic vegetation.

Where can you find the world’s first lungless frog? In Kapuas river, of course! The Bornean flat-headed frog breathes entirely through its skin.

Scientists first discovered the frog in the middle of Kapuas river basin back in 1978.

9.The longest bridge in Borneo crosses this river

The Tayan Bridge is the longest bridge in Borneo spreading over 1,975 meters. It crosses the Kapuas River in Sanggau, West Kalimantan to connect West Borneo with Central Borneo in Indonesia.

10.You can take a tour upriver from Pontianak

It takes up to two days on the deck to travel up Kapuas river from Pontianak depending on your mode of transportation. In Pontianak, there are travel agencies which can help you to plan a trip upriver if you are feeling adventurous. Plus, there are plenty to see along the river from local villages with different architecture to wildlife that might pass your way.

Go to the furthest upstream and you would find yourself in Tanjung Lokang. Located about 13 hours from Putussibau town by speedboat through Kapuas river, the village belongs to the Dayak Punan.

It is the last village in the Borneo jungle when you are heading east across the island.

World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time

World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
The exhibition showcased the winners of the annual World Press Photo Contest.

In 1955, a group of Dutch photographers organised an international contest to showcase their works to the world. They called it ‘World Press Photo’ and now it has become one of the most esteemed photography competitions in the world.

Fast forward to today, the exhibition has toured more than 100 cities in 45 countries, including Kuching.

For the first time ever, the exhibition is being held in Kuching in conjunction with What About Kuching (WAK) 2018, showcasing the winners of the annual World Press Photo Contest of which 4,548 photographers from 125 countries sent in a total 73,044 entries.

True to its name, the winning photos gave fair and compelling insights about what happening in and around the world.

Apart from the winning photos, the exhibition also showed stories from six Southeast Asia and Oceania Talents of the World Press Photo Foundation.

Installed on the ground of Padang Merdeka, the exhibition is open for the public from Sept 29 to Oct 27.

World Press Photo Exhibition: Giving glimpses to the outside world

World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
A series of nature-themed photos on display.

The series of photos displayed were featured various themes such as environment, nature, people, sports and world issues.

Some of the photos were explicit and powerful, showcasing serious human rights issues such as sex workers in Russia.

For those who are avid fans of National Geographic, some of the photographers might be familiar such as Ami Vitale who is widely known for her work capturing photos of wild pandas and rhinos.

This exhibition also allowed visitors who follow prominent photographers like Vitale on social media the opportunity to appreciate their images in sizes larger than cellphones’ screens.

In addition to that, there were also well-known photos which have been circulated on international news.

The most famous one displayed was the image of 28-year-old student Victor Salazar whose clothes caught on fire after a motorcycle exploded during a street protest in Venezuela against its president Nicolas Maduro.

The exhibition also managed to open up any visitors’ eyes to world issues such as the stateless case of Rohingya Muslims in Myanmar and the deforestation in Brazilian Amazon.

World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
A man vapes thoughtfully as he studies a panel of photos in a set which also features an image of Victor Salazar caught on fire during street protests in (right).
World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
A series of photos featuring two sisters living in a bioenergy village in Austria.
World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
Some of the works by Italian photographer Fausto Podavini.
World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
A man viewing the images by National Geographic photographer Ami Vitale.
World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
The exhibition is also part of an effort to reactivate spaces in Kuching such as Padang Merdeka.
World Press Photo Exhibition shows in Kuching, Sarawak for the first time
World Press Photo exhibition has toured to more than 100 cities in 45 countries and now is in Kuching.

About WAK World Press Photo exhibition

What About Kuching (WAK) city festival together with Sarawak Museum Department co-organised the exhibition sponsored by the Netherlands Embassy and Swinburne University of Technology Sarawak. The Limkokwing Institute of Creative Technology Kuching supported the event through its design and installation.

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
A bottle of APDS (Association of Periaus of Danau Sentarum) honey.

Where the locals farm their own honey

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
Honey coming in from different periau ready to be dehumidified and packaged at APDS.

At Danau Sentarum National Park, the local communities manage their honey production in groups called periau made up of traditional forest honey farmers.

Each periau belongs to a village, which will see their respective honey farmers collecting and harvesting their own honey from the tikung, an artificial branch the villagers of the national park use in their traditional honey farming.

Thanks to this traditional way of producing honey, the Board of Indonesian Organic Certification (BioCert) certified it organic in 2007.

There are at least 15 periau located in the area with the oldest group being periau Semangit.

After harvest, the honey will be sent to APDS (Association of Periaus of Danau Sentarum) located at Dusun Semangit (Semangit village).

From APDS, the honey is packaged and sent to Jakarta. According to APDS product manager Abang Muhammad Erwanto, APDS managed to export 7 tonnes of honey to Jakarta this year alone.

Even so, the association is still able to keep up to 3 tonnes for their own stock.

“This stock is for us to sell to any visitors who come to visit Danau Sentarum,” Erwanto said.

The income from the honey provides an alternative income for the these communities who rely heavily on their fishing industry.

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
APDS office at Semangit village, West Kalimantan in Indonesia.
How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
The honey that comes in from the local villages is dehumidified for up to 48 hours before being packaged.

The legend behind the tikung method

How the tikung, or the rafter, method came about is an interesting story on its own. According to Erwanto, the tikung has been used by the local communities for generations.

“Once upon a time, flood hit our villages. Boats drifted away and one of the boats got stuck to a tree. As time passed, a colony of bees came and built their hives in that small boat.”

Inspired by this, the local Malay community of Danau Sentarum started to put up their own artificial branches which they called the tikung.

Tikung is usually made from tembesu (Fagraea fragrans) wood. It is cut into a board about 1.5m in length and hung at an angle from a tree. The bees will come and make their nests on the tikung when the trees begin to bloom. The size of the tikung allows the bees to make bigger hives.

Erwanto pointed out there are no specific kinds of tree to hang the tikung. As for the location of the trees, there is no preference either.

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
Erwanto says the honey farming provides an extra income for the people of Danau Sentarum.

A song to call the bees

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
Muhammad Wasir is one of the few who can sing the timang before a tikung is put up on the tree.

Interestingly, one of the most important parts of setting up a tikung requires some singing skill. Before a honey farmer climbs up a tree to hang a tikung, one of the villagers would sing a special song called timang.

Muhammad Wasir, 63, is one of the few who can chant the timang song. He remembers how as a young child he used to follow his grandparents to harvest honey. It was then that he first heard the song.

Wasir explained that they believed every tree had a ‘penunggu’ (spirit) who guarded the tree. By singing the timang, the farmers were asking permission from the penunggu to set up the tikung against the tree trunk.

They were also calling upon the bees, imploring them to set up their hives on the tikung and to call more of their friends to the tree.

He has taught his children the song, so he believes that the timang tradition will continue on.

Watch Wasir singing the timang song down below. Take note that every time he claps, those present during the setting up of the tikung also have to clap their hands too.

https://youtu.be/ZoEnEi0j1Qw

The importance of honey production to Danau Sentarum

The forest honey bee (Apis dorsata) is indirectly a bio-indicator of Danau Sentarum.

According to Erwanto, this is because the bees are sensitive to any changes of environmental factors such as temperature.

“If there is any forest fire, the bees will not return to make any hives the subsequent year. This happened once in 2005 when open burning took place near here.”

Erwanto explained that knowing the importance of the forest to these bees made the local communities more protective of the environment.

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
A tikung hanging on a tree without its bee’s hive.

A partnership to make Heart of Borneo initiative successful

Located in West Kalimantan, Indonesia, Danau Sentarum National Park falls under the area of Heart of Borneo (HoB).
HoB is a conservation agreement initiated by WWF to protect a 220,000km2 forested region right in the middle of Borneo island.

As part as the HoB initiative, WWF-Indonesia has been supporting APDS through product marketing activities. WWF-Indonesia also been assisting APDS members in Internal Control System (ICS). This is to ensure the farmers maintain the hygiene of their products.

How the tikung beekeeping tradition is supporting life for man and bee in Danau Sentarum
APDS honey in stock at Semangit.

5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu

As a Kayan from the Malaysian state of Sarawak, Kapuas Hulu is a place that feels familiar and foreign at the same time.

First of all, the Kapuas Hulu region in West Kalimantan is home to a wide diversity of indigenous communities such as the Iban, Silat, Sejiram, Seberaung and Kayan.

Hence, some of the dialects, architecture and of course, food are so familiar making a Sarawakian like me almost forget  that I was in another country.

It seems only natural since the north of Kapuas Hulu borders Sarawak. The differences in Malay dialect and vocabulary as well as infrastructure, however, did remind me that I was no longer in Malaysia.

Thanks to World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Indonesia, I got to visit several districts (kecamatan) under Kapuas Hulu  such as Putussibau, Semitau, Suhaid, Badau and Batang Lupar from Sept 25 till 28, giving me the opportunity to explore what made us similar yet different.

5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Indonesian nasi goreng.

Here are five things I learned from a Sarawakian perspective through my culinary experience at Kapuas Hulu, Indonesia:

1. You can take the girl out of the village, but you sure can’t take the village out of the girl
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
You can pick which side dish to go with your rice. 

Terserah kedayakanmu, asyik-asyik makan daun ubi, (You are obviously a Dayak since you keep on eating cassava leaves).”

This was what one of my travelling companions, a local reporter from Pontianak said to me.

Malaysian-style ‘nasi campur’ is also common in neighbouring Indonesia. It is our local buffet style where you pick two or three mains – vegetable or protein – to go with your white rice. The price of your meal will be based on your dish types and portions.

While other types of vegetables such as long beans, bean sprout, cabbage and cangkuk manis (Sauropus androgynus) are available, I guess the Kayan blood flowing through my veins led me to pick out the cassava leaves over the rest.

Locally known as daun ubi or sometimes daun bandung in Sambas regency, the leaves are pounded and stir-fried to perfection, just how Sarawakians would enjoy it.

5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Instead of the stainless steel canteen style setup we have in Malaysia, the nasi campur stalls across the border lay out their food in this attractive and ingenious way.
2. Chicken rice is called ‘ayam goreng’, not nasi ayam.
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
How an ‘ayam goreng’ would look like in Indonesia.

Ayam goreng means fried chicken in Malay. To order ayam goreng in Malaysia will bring you a piece of fried chicken. Meanwhile in Indonesia, ayam goreng comes with a bowl of rice and other side vegetables.

3. Tea is life, not coffee
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Try es jeruk tambah susu which is lime juice with condensed milk.

Most of us in Malaysia love Indonesia’s famous and iconic beverage Teh Botol. Unsurprisingly, tea is a more preferred beverage in the country, compared to coffee.

Indonesia is just like Malaysia where ordering drinks can be tricky and different depending on which state you are in.

But here are key points to remember; it is called ‘es’ not ‘ais’ if you want to order an iced drink. Jeruk in Malaysia means pickled while in Indonesia, you can order ‘air jeruk’ which basically is a lime drink.

Interestingly, you can also order a cup of cappuccino in any common eatery. However do not expect it to come as a double espresso with steamed milk foam. It is equivalent to premixed Malaysian white coffee.

4. The fish is delicious in Kapuas Hulu!
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Fish cooked with asam pedas (spicy tamarind).
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Salted fish roe.

My visit to Kapuas Hulu revolved around Danau Sentarum. It is a magnificent-looking floodplain with plenty of  biodiversity treasures and resources especially fish. Hence, the star of my gastronomic experience is none other than the fish. At one point, it was hard to keep up with the types of fish I tried or which is which but I remember I have tried toman and biawan.

The only type of fish I tasted before during my trip was baung fish. It is a type of catfish which can also be found in Sarawak such as in Bakun or Belaga. In Kapuas Hulu, it is more common to cook these kinds of fish with asam pedas (spicy tamarind).

Fish may not be everybody’s favourite kind of protein, but in Kapuas Hulu,  you might find yourself enjoying it as the freshness adds to its tastiness.

5. Kerupuk basah is a must-try snack
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
You must dip the kerupuk basah in the accompanying peanut sauce to enjoy it completely.

Kapuas Hulu’s kerupuk basah is reportedly Indonesian President Jokowi’s favourite food in West Kalimantan and I have to agree with the president because it was delicious. To this day I regret not buying some to bring home.

What might come to mind when you see kerupuk basah is how much it looks like the Malaysian keropok lekor, a traditional fish snack originally from Malaysian state of Terengganu.

The main similarity between kerupuk basah and keropok lekor is that both of them are made of fish but that’s where it ends.

5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Freshly cooked kerupuk basah in a steamer.

Kerupuk basah has a spongy and smooth texture, almost like a crossover of textures between siu mai and fish cake.

Apparently the most delicious type of kerupuk basah is made from belidak fish. The one I tried was made from toman fish, but it is still tasty.

Most of the time, the kerupuk is served straight from a steamer, although some people prefer it fried.

What makes kerupuk basah extra tasty though, is the peanut sauce that comes with it. Made from fried peanuts, salt, chilli and sugar, the peanut sauce that goes with kerupuk basah is sweeter than our typical peanut sauce here in Malaysia.

So if you ever make your way to Kapuas Hulu, especially its administrative centre Putussibau, do not leave the regency without trying this iconic snack.

5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Kerupuk basah.
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
A view of Kapuas river from Semitau.
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
A view of Kapuas river from Suhaid.
5 things I learned through my gastronomic experience at Kapuas Hulu
Danau Sentarum of Kapuas Hulu.

5 things to do at Danau Sentarum Festival in West Kalimantan this October

Danau Sentarum Festival is an annual event organised in Kapuas Hulu District which was started in 2012.

The festival is aimed to promoted the rich culture of people in Kapuas Hulu, West Kalimantan particularly around Danau Sentarum.

This year, Danau Sentarum Festival will be held on Oct 25 to 28 at three different locations including Lanjak, Batang Lupar and Putussibau.

With the theme “Stimulate Cross-Border Ecotourism in the Heart of Borneo”, the festival was launched as part of 100 Wonderful Events Indonesia by Ministry of Tourism of the Republic of Indonesia.

5 things to do at Danau Sentarum Festival in West Kalimantan this October
The Danau Sentarum Festival will spread out in different locations including Putussibau.

If you are heading to Danau Sentarum Festival this year, here are five things to expect during the event:

1. Join in the Danau Sentarum Cruise

During the festival, visitors are more than welcomed to join the Danau Sentarum Cruise which they will be taken on board Bandong boats to explore the lake.

It is a unique boat with the bottom designed by the Malays and the top designed by the Dayaks. The boat is used as both transportation and accommodation.

There will be two trips daily; one in the morning and another in the afternoon. Visitors should take this opportunity to observe the daily activities of people living in Danau Sentarum.

Plus, do not forget to bring your binocular just in case you can spot any birds along the way.

2. Watch traditional boat parade

Boats are important assets for the local communities of Danau Sentarum. Each tribes living in their area has its own unique traditional boats.

This year, the Dayak Tamambaloh tribe’s Parau Tambe boat by will lead the Traditional Boat Parade. The event will start from Lanjak town to Kedungkang, Melayu Island and Sepandan island, all around Danau Sentarum. 

It is definitely a sight to see with each boat will feature its own traditional music and dances. This activity will be held on Oct 27.

5 things to do at Danau Sentarum Festival in West Kalimantan this October
An example of a Malay village at Danau Sentarum.
3. Enjoy the music of Sentarum Ethnic Music Festival
5 things to do at Danau Sentarum Festival in West Kalimantan this October
Dusun Kedungkang, an Iban longhouse of Batang Lupar district, West Kalimantan.

What do Kalimantan and its Malaysian neighbour, Sarawak have in common when it comes to music? The sape.

This Dayak traditional lute will be featured together with rebana, sitar, gambus with other musical instrument at the Sentarum Ethnic Music Festival (Lanjak, Oct 26).

This is a golden opportunity to hear and compare the different sounds of various tribes in Kapuas Hulu regency, West Kalimantan.

4. Watch the one-of-a-kind Arwana Super Red Contest

Heading over to Putussibau, the contest to be held over the course of the festival aims to promote the conservation of the ‘dragon fish’, the Arwana Super Red (Scleropages formosus). Also called Ikan Siluk Merah in Indonesia, this fish in its vibrant colours ranging from red to chili ted is endemic to Danau Sentarum and has a reputation as one of the most expensive fishes in the world.

5. Have some honey at Culture and Honey Festival
5 things to do at Danau Sentarum Festival in West Kalimantan this October
An example of traditional tattoo of a Kayan Mendalam woman.

Beside arwana fish, another special commodity from Danau Sentarum is its honey. The honey is traditionally farmed and harvested by the Malay communities of Danau Sentarum.

The event will see a parade of 2,000 people drinking honey from bamboo cups.

And the best part is the local people will be donning their traditional attires during this festival. The Culture and Honey Festival will be held at Lanjak on Oct 25.

5 things to do at Danau Sentarum Festival in West Kalimantan this October
Are you up for a blowpipe challenge this coming Danau Sentarum Festival?

Other activities include a blowpipe competition, carving contest, traditional tattoo demonstration, dragon boat and bidar boat races and many more.

For more information on Danau Sentarum Festival, contact the organiser here or here or download the booklet here.

5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia

Danau Sentarum National Park is a unique seasonal wetland where the water levels can rise up to 12m during raining season.

Together with Betung Kerihun National Park and Kapuas Hulu District, the whole area was awarded the biosphere reserve certificate from Man and Biosphere UNESCO last July 2018.

Located in Kapuas Hulu Regency, West Kalimantan Province, Indonesia, the park lies at the upper Kapuas River vasin.

It is a vast floodplain with 20 seasonal lakes, complete with picturesque freshwater swamp forest and peat swamp forest.

Here are five reasons why you should make your way to Danau Sentarum National Park:

1. Explore a maze-like peat land like no other

Travelling over the blackish water of Danau Sentarum is something that needs to be experienced at least once in your lifetime.

When dry season comes (June till September) and the water recedes, some of the lakes turn into narrowing channels while the channels turn into grasslands.

With all the trees that look almost alike and its winding channels, cruising through Danau Sentarum feels like going through a maze.

Plus, the vast floodplain leaves visitors wondering if there is something beyond the horizon of the lake.

5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
The national park covers 127,393.4 hectares whereby half of the area are lakes while the other half is swamp forest.
2. Do some birding activities

Pack your binocular and telephoto lenses to engage in birding activities at Danau Sentarum National Park.

About 240 bird species have been sighted at Danau Sentarum which include  the black hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus), great argus (Argusianus argus), Storm’s stork (Ciconia stormi) and crested gowshawk (Accipter trivirgatus).

5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
Catch some birds on binoculars at Danau Sentarum.
3.Observe the trees and wildlife (on camera) along the way
5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
Like any other national park, do not litter at Danau Sentarum.

Danau Sentarum National Park is located at the Heart of Borneo (HoB) initiative area. It is a government-led and NGO-supported programme that was initiated by a joint declaration by the governments of Brunei, Indonesia and Malaysia in 2007.

Today, it is one of the largest transboundary rainforests remaining in the world.

The whole island of Borneo is home to 6% of the global biodiversity though it only covers 1% of the world’s land area.

One of the areas which contribute to the high biodiversity of Borneo is Danau Sentarum.

It is home to 675 species of plants of which 13 are endemic to Borneo. Additionally, the park provides a natural habitat for orangutans, proboscis monkey, sun bears and arowana fish.

5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
If you are lucky, you will catch a stork landing on one these village jetties.
4.Watch sunrise and sunset over a floodplain
5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
A cloudy sunset view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang.

Thanks to its flat geographical feature, Danau Sentarum National Park gives picturesque views during sunrise and sunset.

And the best place to catch this view is at Bukit Tekenang.

Lonely Planet called Danau Sentarum a “photographers haven”,advising visitors to bring that extra memory card during your visit.

5. Learn about the Malay and Dayak cultures of Danau Sentarum
5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
Dusun Kedungkang, an Iban longhouse located near Danau Sentarum.

What makes Danau Sentarum National Park a unique place to visit is the people living in its area.

There are about 3,000 people living in the 20 villages enclaves within the park. About 90% of them are Malay while the rest are Dayak Iban people.

The Malays live in high-stilt houses connected by bridges while the Ibans live in traditional longhouses.

The residents are very welcoming and visitors should fully utilise their visit to Danau Sentarum by visiting at least one of these traditional villages.

5 reasons to visit Danau Sentarum National Park, Indonesia
A Malay village at Danau Sentarum.

Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang

A visit to Danau Sentarum National Park is not complete without a hike up to Bukit Tekenang.

With a towering height of 130m, the hill is one of the highest peaks in Danau Sentarum National Park.

The area was first gazetted as a wildlife reserve in 1982. Then in 1999, the area was declared as a national park.

Tourists can fly in from Pontianak to Putussibau, then take a four to four-hour-and-a-half hour’s journey to Semitau or Suhaid respectively.

From either Semitau or Suhaid, visitors can take a speedboat to Bukit Tekenang.

For Malaysians who are coming in from Sarawak’s Lubok Antu-Badau border, the closest way to get to Bukit Tekenang is from Lanjak town which takes about 40 minutes journey via speedboat.

It takes roughly 7 to 8 hours to drive to Lanjak from Kuching city.

At Bukit Tekenang, you will find a humble resort with basic amenities. So far the resort has welcomed both local and international tourists, especially from the UK and the Netherlands.

Not many locals live at Bukit Tekenang; the 20 families who do live there live by the lake on floating houses.

They are all fishermen living off the resources of Danau Sentarum (or Lake Sentarum). Apart from that, they also culture toman fish (Channa micropeltes) in cages.

Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
Floating houses at Bukit Tekenang.
Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
As always, don’t litter. A sign at Danau Sentarum reminding visitors to keep the national park clean by taking their rubbish with them.
Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
A map of Bukit Tekenang.
Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
A must-visit site of Danau Sentarum National Park.

Animals and plants who Danau Sentarum home

As for the wildlife at Bukit Tekenang, mammals such as proboscis monkeys (Nasalis larvatus), long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis), common treeshrews (Tupaia glis), and painted treeshrews (Tupaia picta) have been sighted at the area.

Overall, Danau Sentarum is home to about 240 bird species include the black hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus), great argus (Argusianus argus), Storm’s stork (Ciconia stormi) and crested gowshawk (Accipter trivirgatus).

Additionally, the vast floodplain is habitat to more than 20 reptiles such as the viper, false gharial, estuarine crocodile and monitor lizard.

The trees found at Bukit Tekenang are the itchy tree (Baringtonia acutangula), grey satinash (Syzygium claviflorum) and kayu tahun (Carallia sp).

Meanwhile, the whole national park includesw 20 seasonal lakes and 40 small islands. The islands have freshwater swamp forest and peat swamp forest.

Peat swamp is where waterlogged soil prevents dead leaves and wood from fully decomposing. This consequently creates a thick layer of acidic peat over time.

The acidic peat causes the water around it to be brackish which explains the dark-coloured water of Danau Sentarum.

Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
Bukit Tekenang also has an office for Danau Sentarum National Park.

A breathtaking view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang

Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
There are resting huts located along the way up to Bukit Tekenang.
Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
The trail is only about 500m long.

For the unaccustomed eyes, Danau Sentarum might remind you of 2007 British-Australian horror movie Black Water.

However once you get to on top at Bukit Tekenang, you will understand how the blackish water elevates the beauty of Danau Sentarum.

The blackish water serves as a mirror, especially when sun rays hit the pond at sunrise and sunset.

For photographers, it gives a golden opportunity to capture the perfect landscape of Danau Sentarum.

The hike up to the hill takes less than 30 minutes. Relatively an easy hike, it has a 500m staircase with resting huts located along the way.

Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
Can you see the storm on the horizon?

Do take note that the water level ranges from 5m to 12m depending on the season. The rainy season is usually from October to May when the water level is quite high.

Meanwhile, during the dry season (June until September), some of the lakes may dry out and some parts of the channels turn into grasslands.

Although the national park is open for visitors all year round, different months of visiting might give visitors different kind of view from Bukit Tekenang.

If you are planning when to visit, imagine what kind of view you expect Danau Sentarum to have. It is either greenish forest swamp surrounded by water or greenery with patches of brownish grasslands.

Both views are equally mesmerising as long as you have Mother Nature on your side to give you clear weather.

Take in the mesmerising view of Danau Sentarum from Bukit Tekenang
If you are lucky, you might catch the sun in action when setting down.

10 ways to use your sarong when travelling

A sarong in Asia typically refers to a fabric sewn together at both ends to to form a fabric tube, and is often used to wrap around the waist. For women, this common casual wear in Southeast Asia is a travel hack must-have.

Here are ten ways to fully utilise your sarong when travelling:

10 ways to use your sarong when travelling
Sarongs are also known as kain batik in Malaysia. Credits: Pixabay.
1. As beachwear

Tie it around your waist on top of your bikini and you have an instant skirt. Wrap it around your chest and you have an instant tube dress.

2. To change clothes

Do you know that you can change your clothes in public using a sarong without exposing your body? Firstly, it requires a little bit of skill and practice. If you want to change your shirt, wear the sarong and pull the fabric out from underneath your shirt. Give the sarong a small bite to make sure you don’t drop it and pull off your shirt.

You can do the same thing when you want to change your bottoms. Wear it, pull it up and hold it with your teeth. While doing that, make sure your hands are underneath the sarong and you can zip up or down and change your bottoms in a jiffy!

3.To take a shower in public

In some parts of Sarawak, it used to be common to see women taking baths by the river in their sarongs. This life skill is important if you need to take shower in the public toilet or just a dip in the river and you forget your bikini or change of clothes.

Just make sure to wrap it tightly around your chest before your bath.

4. As a blanket

A sleeping bag works way better than a sarong to keep yourself warm at night when you are outdoor camping. But if the sleeping bag is too warm for places like a  tropical country, use your sarong as a blanket instead.

5. As a lightweight towel

One of the ways to travel light is to leave your big, thick towel at home and bring a small towel and a sarong instead. Use the small towel to pat yourself dry and wrap your body with the sarong if you need to walk out from the bathroom.

6. As a beach mat

Your ultimate island essentials should include a drybag, a beach hat, a mat, sunscreen and more. Just in case you forget to bring your mat or you do not travel with one, spread the sarong like a mat.

7. As an emergency bed sheet

If you are on a budget travelling trip, you might not end up on the cleanest accommodation. When the bed feels icky or you just want to be safe, spread the sarong on your bed sheet like a mattress cover.

8. As an emergency pillow

The same thing goes when you feel uncomfortable with the pillow provided when travelling. Make use of the tube structure of the fabric to turn it into an emergency pillow. First of all, you need some cotton clothes preferably T-shirts and your sarong. Put all your T-shirts inside the tube and tie knots at both ends of the fabric. Voila! You have your pillow! This is a good travel hack especially when you are going camping.

9.To cover yourself at sacred places

When visiting sacred places like a temple, sarongs are provided to cover yourself before entering. However, it is still best to wear your own sarong.

10.To cover yourself to go to the loo

When you need to go, you really need to go, even when you are in the jungle.

For ladies, it might be tricky but with a sarong there is no need for you to worry. There are some local jungle superstitions that might to be observe when going to the loo. And when you already picked the right spot in the bush and asked for permission, used the sarong to cover yourself. Using the same trick to change your clothes; bite the fabric nicely and expand it with your hands to keep it clean while doing your business.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park

Located in the province of West Kalimantan, Indonesia, the Danau Sentarum National Park is one of the most biodiverse lake systems in the world.

To give you an idea of how diverse; the park is home to about 240 recorded fish species.

Compare that to the European continent which has recorded about 546 species of freshwater fish, and Danau Sentarum has the equivalent of 40% of fish species for the whole of Europe.

The national park which covers an area of 127,393.4 hectares is basically a vast floodplain. Half of the area are lakes while the other half is swamp forest.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
One of the many channels in the complex lake system of Danau Sentarum National Park.

While most national parks in the world impose the heavy rule of ‘no fishing’ within its management area, the same rule cannot be enforced at Danau Sentarum National Park.

This is because there are roughly 20 villages located within the park’s proximity.

About 90% of the locals there are the Malay people while the rest are Dayak Iban.

With most of their villages built right next to a body of water, the lake also gives the villagers accessibility to the outside world besides providing

Most importantly, though, the communities rely heavily on the fish resources as their source of livelihood.

During a trip organised by World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Indonesia from Nov 25 till 28, a group of media practitioners and travel writers paid a visit to Danau Sentarum National Park.

There, the group had the opportunity to cruise through the different channels of the lake system and observe the daily activities of local communities.

And it was not hard to find the locals at the Danau Sentarum. A number of them were seen on their boats busy with different kind of fishing gear.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
The local communities of Danau Sentarum rely heavily on fishing as their source of income.

Fishing nets of all kinds

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
One of the fishing gears, commonly called ‘pukat’.
Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
A closer look at the pukat.

One of the most common types of fishing gear used at Danau Sentarum is the pukat or gill net. The nets look like rectangular hammocks with wooden sticks to put them in place.

Pukat is commonly used all year round. However when the water level drops during dry season, this fishing method is not practical as the net is not entirely submerged.

Apart from the pukat, the locals of Danau Sentarum can be seen casting jala or nets from the bows of their wooden boats.

Jala allows the locals to catch different kinds of fish depending on the mesh sized used.

Another common fishing gear spotted along the lake of the national park was the bubu. This is typically a large cylindrical fish trap made from rattan, although they do make rectangular traps as well.

Some fishermen were still seen using good old hooks. This kind of fishing method is used to catch fish for personal consumption.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
Biawan fishes in cage cultures.

Are those wind chimes?

Bubu is not the only type of fish trap used at Danau Sentarum.

If you are cruising through Danau Sentarum, youmight notice small items hanging from trees along the lake and the stilts of the village houses.

They look like wind chimes from afar but in fact they are bamboo tube traps.

Called tabung by the locals, these fish traps are made from bamboo tubes tied in bundles. The local fishermen used them primarily to trap live ulang uli.

Ulang uli or clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus) have orange bodies with three black bars. They are usually sold as ornamental fish.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
Tabung hanging from stilts at Danau Sentarum.
Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
These fish traps are made from bamboo tubes tied in bundles.

Fishing for a living at Danau Sentarum

Apart from ornamental fish, Danau Sentarum fishery folk process their various catches into salted and smoked products for sale.

And their products cannot get any fresher; the fish are immediately gutted right on the boats or their village wharf.

According to one fisherman, Abang Usman from Dusun (village) Semangit, it takes up to four days to completely dry the salted fish.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
Abang Usman from Dusun Semangit.

The salted fish are sold to a seller who comes to the village every two or three days to collect the processed fish.

He explained that the type of fish sold vary according to the season. In September, some of the common catches are toman, baung and biawan.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
A group of villagers gutting fish together to make salted fish.

Fish for food at Danau Sentarum

At Danau Sentarum, fish is the main source of protein for the local villagers. While salted and smoked fishes are tasty and ready to have with a bowl of hot steaming rice, they still can’t beat freshly cooked fish.

And one of the favourite ways to cook any fishes here is with asam pedas, or spicy tamarind fish. It is a Malay sour and spicy fish dish popular in Indonesia.

The added bonus of having your fish freshly caught, is that they don’t have that fishy smell.

So if you are making your way to Danau Sentarum, do not miss out on having a taste of the fish.

Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
Salted roes from toman fishes, one of the delicacies found at a Malay village in Danau Sentarum.
Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
It takes up to four days to dry these salted fishes.
Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
Fish smoking in the process.
Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
The local fishermen dry their fishes in front of their houses.
Observing traditional fishing methods at Danau Sentarum National Park
Toman fishes cooked in asam pedas.
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