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What you need to know about the Battle of Tarakan during World War II

The Battle of Tarakan refers to different actions which happened during World War II on Tarakan island, off the northeast coast of Borneo.

The first battle of Tarakan happened on Jan 11-12, 1942 when Japanese attacked the island, defeating Allied forces. Meanwhile the second battle of Tarakan took place on May 1-25, 1945 as the first phase of the Allied campaign to retake Borneo from the Japanese.

Battle of Tarakan (1942)
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A view of Amal Beach, east coast of Tarakan.

The Battle of Tarakan in 1942 began a day after the Empire of Japan declared war on the Netherlands.

Despite the fact that it is only a small island, Tarakan’s 700 oil wells, oil refinery and airfield put the island onto the Japanese forces must-conquer-list during the Pacific War.

Before the war, Tarakan was producing about 80,000 barrels of oil per month.

On Jan 10, 1942, a Dutch flying boat spotted an approaching Japanese invasion fleet. Knowing the Japanese army was coming, the commander of Tarakan’s garrison ordered the destruction of all oil installations on the island.

Today, one can only imagine the sounds and smells of these explosions as well as the anxiety waiting for your enemies to land.

By midnight of Jan 11, the Japanese forces landed on the east coast of Tarakan which today has become a tourist attraction called Amal Beach.

The troop was met with short but fierce resistance from the Royal Netherlands East Indies Army. The Dutch surrendered in the morning of Jan 12.

Instead of accepting their surrender, the Japanese executed the entire crew of coastal battery together with some 219 prisoners of wars (POWs) via drowning.

The island then remained under Japanese occupation until May 1945 when the Battle of Tarakan 1945 happened.

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Amal Beach, where the Japanese landed in 1942.
Tarakan under Japanese occupation

The Dutch thought they did a thorough job in destroying Tarakan’s oil fields. But the Japanese were able to recommission the first oil wells by August 1942. By early 1944, Tarakan was producing 350,000 barrels a month.

During the Japanese occupation, the locals of Tarakan suffered from malnutrition. The large number of Japanese troops on the island together with 600 Javanese labourers caused food shortage on the island.

Imagine that the oilfield in Tarakan alone was operated by 250 men from the Imperial Japanese Navy.

By late 1944, the Allied forces started to strike back, launchinf air raids destroying oil production and storage facilities on the island.

Unfortunately, hundreds of civilians were also killed during these air raids.

Comfort women in Tarakan during Japanese occupation

If you are not familiar with the term ‘comfort women’, they were women and girls forced into sexual slavery by the Imperial Japanese Army.

The Dutch government did a study in 1994 about comfort women during the time of the Dutch East Indies.

It concluded that about 200 to 300 European women had been taken to become comfort women.

Besides Dutch women, many Javanese and east Timorese women were also forced into prostitution.

They were usually sent to Burma, Thailand and eastern Indonesia, including Tarakan.

According to records, it is estimated about 300 women from Java were brought into Tarakan. A number of them were of other origins including Eurasians and Chinese.

Similar to many human trafficking cases today, they had been lured with the promise of jobs in clerical work and clothes making.

But in the end, they were actually forced into prostitution at Tarakan’s garrison and sometimes on visiting warships.

Battle of Tarakan (1945) was just a political act?

Many historians believed the decision by the Allies to retake Borneo from the Japanese in 1945 was mostly based on political reasons.

According to an article by Department of Veterans’ Affairs in Australia, the plan to invade Borneo had only marginal strategic value.

It stated, “General Douglas MacArthur, Commander-in-Chief of Allied forces in the Southwest Pacific Area, planned the operation to alleviate concerns of the Australian government that its forces were being relegated to operational backwaters as New Guinea had become.”

During the war, MacArthur left Australian forces out of most significant operations.

So, the idea of invading Borneo was intended to make Australian forces more visible again during the war against Japan.

General MacArthur chose to capture Tarakan in order for the island to be used to support an invasion of Java. It was crucial to recapture Java so that the Dutch could formally restore its power on the Netherlands East Indies.

Another reason was to capture the oilfields in Borneo. But this did little effect on the Japanese operation. Taking Tarakan, for example, the last Japanese oil tanker left the island in July 1944.

Meanwhile, the American air and naval troops had blockades around Japan. So there was no oil being shipped into Japan from Borneo.

What went down during the Battle of Tarakan 1945

Regardless of the reasons, the Battle of Tarakan was the first stage in the Borneo campaign of 1945.

In an operation code-named Operation Oboe One, the Australian forces landed on Tarakan on May 1.

The engineers went in first and cleared gaps through the beach defences with explosives before the main assault.

Then, naval and air bombardments also destroyed or damaged many Japanese positions.

Over the next seven weeks, there was fierce fighting as the Australians pushed inland to take the whole island.

One of the primary objectives to retake Tarakan island was to build airfields.

The airfield did open for fighter aircraft to land in late June 1945 but it was not used as much as it was intended for.

The Australians underestimated the work as they found the existing airfields were badly damaged. Meanwhile the site selected to build new airfields had excessive boggy ground.

The Aftermath of Battle of Tarakan

In the end, more than 200 Australians were killed before the last Japanese positions fell on June 20, 1945.

Although the Battle of Tarakan in 1945 was a success for Australia, Australian historian Gavin Long pointed out that the results achieved did not justify the entire cost of the Tarakan operation.

So was the battle for a sideshow? Or was it to make Australia look like they contributed something during the end of WWII? The Battle of Tarakan 1945 remains debatable among historians.

Saying hello to the proboscis monkey in Tarakan’s Bekantan and Mangrove Conservation Park

While we call it’ ‘monyet belanda’ in Malaysia, in Indonesia it is called ‘bekantan’. The proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus) is endemic to Borneo and can be found in all three countries on the island.

But it can also be found on the island of Tarakan, in the eastern part of Borneo in North Kalimantan province of Indonesia.  

Here visitors can see them at the Bekantan and Mangrove Conservation Park, about 1km from the city center of Tarakan.

The Bekantan and Mangrove Conservation Park

The park is a conservation effort led by Tarakan city’s local government. In the beginning, the area only spanned three hectares, now it has increased to 22 hectares.

It was officially opened on June 5, 2003. Besides a conservation place for proboscis monkeys, it also served as the green lung for Tarakan city.

At first there were only two proboscis monkeys living in the park, now they have about 35 individuals.

Over the years, these proboscis monkeys have become used to human visitors, so it is easier to spot them and catch them on camera.

Plus, their reddish brown fur and unusually large noses make them easier to spot among the mangrove trees.

The best times to visit the Bekantan and Mangrove Conservation Park are between 11am to 2pm. This is because these are the extra feeding times for these bekantan.

Being seasonal eaters, these animals eat mostly fruit from January to May and leaves, especially mangrove leaves during June to December.

But the park rangers still feed them fruit with extra nutrients like bananas.

What to bring to the park

Visitors can walk around the park along its walkways that make it convenient to bring young families around.

Besides proboscis monkeys, visitors can also watch out for other animals such as crabs, birds, monitor lizards, squirrels, and mud fish. During high tide, you might even spot see snakes swimming through these mangrove roots.

Since the park is located near the city, visitors cannot escape from urban noise pollution, especially with noises coming in from a nearby school.

But with plenty of mangrove trees around, it is still a good place to see some greenery.

Although you can take photos of proboscis monkeys from a distance of 5m, it is still best to bring long-focus lenses to take their photographs.

Be respectful toward these animals and do not provoke them. Ever.

In Indonesia, proboscis monkeys are protected by Law Number 5 of 1990, Article 21, paragraph 2, which states that it is prohibited from capturing, injuring, killing, storing, possessing, maintaining, transporting and trading protected animals in living conditions. Anyone who intentionally violates the provisions of Article 21 paragraph 2 can be punished with a maximum imprisonment of 5 years and a maximum fine of Rp100 million (about RM28,000 or USD 7,000).

Besides Bekantan and Mangrove Conservation Park, proboscis monkeys can also be found in 16 protected areas in Indonesia.

These include Danau Sentarum National Park, Gunung Palung National Park, Kendawangan Nature Reserve, Kutai National Park, Lesan Protection Forest, Muara Kama Nature Reserve, Mandor Reserve and Tanjung Puting National Park.

Pasar Batu Tarakan, where Indonesians shop for Malaysian products

When visiting Indonesians want to buy souvenirs at Tarakan island in North Kalimantan, the place most people suggest is Pasar Batu Tarakan.

But for Malaysians, it might not be the most ideal place. This was because Pasar Batu Trakan sells mostly Malaysian products.

Most of these products were brought in from Tawau, Sabah which is a 40-minute plane ride or four-hour boat ride from Tarakan island.

Malaysian Milo, the most sought after item at Pasar Batu Tarakan

If you ever take a flight from Kuching to Pontianak, you might notice many Indonesians carrying Milo as their hand-carry items.

They found Malaysian Milo to be more delicious than the Indonesian-made one. Plus, it is thicker, less sweet but richer in cocoa flavour than theirs.

So Malaysians, do not be surprised if you can find Milo at every stall at Pasar Batu Tarakan.

They are sold in different weights as well as 3-in-1 versions, just as you would find them in Malaysian supermarkets.

Other Malaysian beverages sold at Pasar Batu Tarakan were Nespray milk, Old Town Coffee, Ovaltine, Quaker Oat and children’s milk Lactogen.

Speaking of oats, one of the hottest items at Pasar Bayu Tarakan is made-in-China Twinfish Oat Choco. However be careful, as this is supposedly the most counterfeited item in Malaysia. Its distributor Jie Cheng Hang Sdn Bhd claimed that there are over 16 brands of the similar product in Malaysia. And the one found at this souvenir market came from Malaysia.

Apart from Twinfish Oat Choco, Indonesians also love Malaysian Apollo cakes. A Malaysian favourite childhood snack, the market also sold plenty variety of Apollo cakes there.

So what do Malaysians buy at Pasar Batu Tarakan?

Although Malaysian products made up 90% of the items being sold at Pasar Batu Tarakan, it does not mean Malaysians cannot buy anything interesting from there.

You can buy affordable crackers (kerupuk) made from locally caught fish like ikan tipis and ikan bulu ayam.

If you are a coffee lover, you must take one packet of Kopi Malinau Equato. It is one of North Kalimantan’s very own robusta available in dark and medium roasted variety.

A memorable dinner at Coffee Malabar Tarakan

During my recent trip to North Kalimantan organised by WWF-Indonesia, I had the opportunity to spend a night in Tarakan.

The island of Tarakan is located in northern Borneo, just across the border from Sabah, Malaysia.

After enjoying our evening view at Pantai Amal while devouring countless numbers of crunchy fried shrimp and hard clams, I thought I had enough.

However, my friends convinced me to eat something or at least try something new. How often do I get to visit Indonesia, let alone Tarakan right?

We were then brought to Coffee Malabar Tarakan at Pamusian, Tarakan Tengah.

At a glance, it looked like a typical hispterish, Insta-worthy dining place. They had funny and interesting quotes about coffee on the wall, antique decorations, unique lighting and old doors for the ceiling. The patrons all seemed to be relaxed and enjoying themselves.

Coffee Malabar Tarakan
Coffee Malabar Tarakan

There were plenty of choices of Indonesian, western and fusion cuisines. Too many for me that I couldn’t decide what to have.

After few suggestions from my friends, I decided to give nasi gudeg a try. Without even asking any more details, I just left my taste buds and gastronomic experience in the hands of my new friends.

My first nasi gudeg at Coffee Malabar Tarakan
Coffee Malabar Tarakan 5

When my order finally arrived, the first thing I tried was the gudeg. Originally from Yogyakarta and Central Java, gudeg is made from young unripe jackfruit stewed for several hours with palm sugar and coconut milk.

So you can imagine my first thought was that it was sweet.

Some of the additional spices for gudeg are galangal, bay leaves, garlic, shallot, coriander seed and teak leaves. Teak leaves give it its reddish-brown colour, making it looked like stewed beef.

The nasi gudeg was also served with other side dishes such as opor ayam, telur pindang and krechek – all of which were new for me.

Let me start with opor ayam; it is basically chicken cooked in coconut milk. For Malaysians, imagine ayam masak lemak but with less ‘lemak’ or coconut milk.

Telur pindang looked like my favourite Chinese tea egg (where a boiled egg is cracked and cooked again in tea) but without the herbal fragrance. The telur pindang is boiled slowly in water mixed with salt, soy sauce, shallot skins, teak leaf and other aromatic spices.

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From left to right are telur pindang, gudeg and opor ayam.

Last but not least, my first ever nasi gudeg came with krechek. To be honest, I could finish all of my side dishes including the gudeg, but not the krechek.

When my friends asked what I thought about the taste? I honestly answered, “Unique.” For me, its almost-rubbery texture was unfamiliar hence making it unique. It is made from skin of a cattle, cooked in a coconut-milk based stew.

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The krechek, which is made from the soft inner skin of cattle.

Glancing over at my friends’ orders, I thought ‘Dang, I should have ordered the Nasi Pecel’. It came with pecel, a salad dish made of cooked vegetables with peanut sauce, steamed rice and other side dishes.

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Nasi pecel

There were other dishes on the menu as well such as Crispy Cheese Chicken Rice, sandwiches and burgers.

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Crispy Cheese Chicken Rice
Sampling the different coffee beans from all over Indonesia at Coffee Malabar Tarakan

Coffee lovers would definitely love Coffee Malabar. You can choose your beans, which come from different parts of Indonesia.

Did you know that Indonesia was the fourth-largest coffee producer in the world in 2014? They have more than 20 varieties of arabica coffee being cultivated in the country.

Even if you are like me, who doesn’t like arabica in general due to its acidity, give Indonesian arabica a try. Their arabica coffee generally has low acidity compared to those from Central America and East Africa.

Coffee Malabar offered the choices of Luak, Bali Kintamani, Toraja Kalosi, Java, Aceh Gayo, Flores and Papua coffee beans.

Each came with descriptions of aftertaste, acidity, roasting and popularity levels.

I chose the Bali Kintamani; it was thick with a rich herbal aroma. It also had a slight citrus-y aftertaste.

There were plenty of other drinks as well and the one caught my attention was Iced-blended Avocado with Coffee.

As much as I wanted to be daring in my dining experience, I only had room for one and it was for nasi gudeg and its unique krechek.

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Iced blended avocado with coffee.
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Vietnamese coffee.

Come for the view, stay for the seafood at Pantai Amal of Tarakan

Do you know that you can take a direct flight from Tawau to Tarakan? That is how accessible this largest city of the Indonesian province of North Kalimantan for Malaysians.

It is also reachable by flight from Balikpapan, Jakarta, Surabaya, Denpasar and Makassar.

Located in northern Borneo, the island is just across the border from the Malaysian state of Sabah.

Historians or World War II buffs would know about Tarakan. It was among the first Japanese targets early in the war.

Realising they were short of oil supply, Japan declared war on the Dutch East Indies (also known as Netherlands East Indies) on Jan 10, 1942 and their troops landed on Tarakan the very next day.

This was because it was one of the five largest petroleum processing centers in the East Indies way back in the 1940s.

The name Tarakan is believed to come from the Tidung language. “Tarak” means meeting place while “ngakan” is to eat.

Long time ago, Tarakan was a meeting place for sailors and traders to eat, rest and trade their catch.

Making a pit stop at Tarakan’s Pantai Amal (or Amal Beach)

If you find yourself in Tarakan someday, follow in the footsteps of the olden day sailors and have a munch and rest at Pantai Amal.

Popular among the locals, the beach is located on the eastern side of the city.

Visitors love to sit along the coastline and simply enjoy the view of Pantai Amal.

Instead of looking forward to the sunset view, the beach is a famous place to have a glance of the sunrise.

But it doesn’t mean you should not visit it during the evening. The place is the perfect hangout site to relax and eat.

There are huts built along Pantai Amal managed by different stall operators.

Just have a seat in one of the huts and someone will come and take your order.

What’s to eat at Pantai Amal?

There are two dishes you need to have at Pantai Amal; its fried shrimps and stir-fried kerang kapah (hard clams).

The fried shrimps are crunchy and tasty while the clams are chewy and juicy. Both are Pantai Amal’s specialties and both are equally addictive.

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The crunchy fried shrimps.
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Suck on these delicious clams, locally known as ‘kapah’.

You can skip the carbs if you want to but if you want to order rice, you have to order buras.

For Sabahans who live in Sandakan, Tawau, Kunak and Lahad Datu, they might be familiar with this. It is a traditional Bugis rice dish cooked in coconut milk and wrapped in banana leaves.

This sticky rice somehow complements the taste of seafood in your mouth. To take your gastronomic adventure even further, dip the fried shrimps and clams into the sambal (chilli paste) before digging them in.

Those who can’t stand the heat, you might want to skip the sambal. Unlike most Indonesian sambal which is sweet, the ones served at Pantai Amal is more on the sour side, making it perfect pairing with the seafood.

For desserts, order a plate of banana fritters. Don’t forget to order coconut too because a trip to a tropical beach like Pantai Amal would not be complete without sipping on a coconut drink.

Pantai Amal
Take off your shoes and have a sit at one of these huts.

Discover Eric Mjöberg’s Curious Animal Descriptions as Sarawak Museum Curator

In 2004, a former Sarawak Museum curator made controversial headlines across the globe thanks to what he did 90 years earlier.

Eric Mjöberg served two years as a curator for the Sarawak Museum from 1922 until 1924.

Before he found himself in Borneo, he had made various expeditions to Australia during the early 1900s to prove his Darwinian human evolution theory.

A zoologist and ethnographer trying to do his job… how controversial could his work be?

In Western Australia, Mjöberg who started off by collecting plant and animal specimens for research purposes, had also desecrated the sacred burial grounds of the Aboriginal people.

After stealing their human remains, he then passed them off as kangaroo bones and smuggled them back to his home country Sweden.

He did this reportedly over the course of two expeditions between 1910 and 1916, collecting parts from 12 deceased individuals.

After suffering from an extended, undiagnosed illness, Mjöberg passed away in Stockholm in 1938, living in poverty. Throughout this period, he endured recurring nightmares that mirrored his encounters in the Kimberleys. These haunting dreams involved a feeling of being chased by Aboriginal individuals and interactions with the Dreamtime’s creation spirits called the Wondjina.

In September 2004, Lotte Mjöberg, his great-niece, took the initiative to return the skeletons to the Aboriginal people.

Interestingly, Mjöberg actually exposed his own unethical practices through his 1915 publication of his diaries ‘Among Wild Animals and People in Australia’.

Apart from this book, he also published another book Forest Life and Adventures in the Malay Archipelago (1930).

In the book, he wrote mainly brief descriptions of the rich fauna and flora in the region while giving more attention to Borneo.

Although he was described by historians as aggressive, arrogant and devious, his descriptions and observations of nature are interesting and detailed.

We might never see this type of explanation in a formal zoology textbook again, so here are some of examples of Mjoberg’s curious descriptions:

1. Mjöberg called the pangolin ‘stupid and obstinate’.

“Our ant-eater is stupid and obstinate, two attributes no doubt inherited from the dim past. When in danger he rolls himself up into a ball, and no power on earth can induce him to unroll until he wishes, which in other words, is not until all danger is over.”

2.The proboscis monkey is ‘a human caricature in flesh and blood’

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A proboscis monkey spotted at Tarakan’s Bekantan and Mangrove Conservation Park

“Sometimes a man may be as ugly as a monkey, and a monkey may have something very human about it; indeed, it is quite customary to call monkeys humanity’s caricatures. Of none can this be said with such truth of the Borneo proboscis monkey.

“The Malay natives in Sarawak call them ‘orang belanda’ which is a contraction of orang hollanda or hollandare (Dutchmen). Not a great compliment, this, to Queen Wilhelmina’s representatives in the Tropics!”

3.Banded archerfish or squirting fish is one of the shrewdest of fish and ‘the most economical marksman’ in the world.

“One of the shrewdest of fish is the little squirting fish (Toxotes jaculator). The struggle for existence and one’s daily bread is not hard on dry land only, but the under the water as well. It is essential before all else to satisfy the strongest and most primitive of impulses, the desire for food, the first essential of any individual’s existence.

“He is generally seen patrolling in the water along the river banks, carefully inspecting the leaves of the water plants. As soon as he discovers a suitable victim he backs, takes in more copious supply than usual, and with soldierly precision shoots a stream of water at his prey. Taken aback by the sudden cold douche, the insect loses its self-possession, and tumbles down into the water, where he is speedily dispatched by our ingenious little shot. Inspired by his success, he continues this pastime until he has satisfied his appetite.

“Since he only uses water, the squirting fish is undoubtedly the most economical marksman in the world.”

4.The most pugnacious bird in the Malay Archipelago is the Argus pheasant

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“Argus Pheasant” drawn by T. W. Wood for Charles Darwin‘s 1874 book, Descent of Man

“The Argus pheasant is very defiant and suffers from a hot and choleric temperament: an affliction of which the clever Malays take the utmost advantage.

“They plant in his dancing ground some dozens of yard-long pointed bamboo sticks, in such a way that the sharp points stick up a little more than a foot – the height of the dancer’s breast – out of the ground. When he arrives at break of day to give proof to the fair sex of his superabundant vitality, he flies into a towering rage at these unexpected hindrances to love’s measure, and at first makes disdainful attempts to kick away the sticks.

“But this is no easy matter, for they are firmly fixed. His undisguised wrath flares up and he attacks them with tooth and claw. His fury – violent as it is – reaches boiling point, and he slashes round fiercely in every direction, with the final result that he wounds himself mortally on the little stakes planted at fixed distances. There have been birds that in blind frenzy have literally beheaded themselves, or have hung dead with pierced throats, transfixed by the pointed bamboos.”

5.The flying frog inventive for being the only flying expert amongst thousands of his tribe.

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Illustration from Wallace’s 1869 The Malay Archipelago by J. G. Keulemans

“There is only one single specimen of earth’s multifarious frogs – wellnigh a thousand in all – that has climbed to heights beyond the commonplace and sails above his four-footed clumsy relatives. This fellow with the black feet goes by the name of Rhacophorus nigropalmatus, and lives on a high, moss-covered height, Mount Dulit in Northeast Borneo.

“When he feels like flying, or is very much disturbed by the neighbourhood of green tree snake, who is too evidently anxious to have him for breakfast, our sticky aviator climbs up the mossy trunk to get a good start and a better view of the country.

“His greatly elongated phalanxes are quite joined by a web for swimming or as might be more correctly said in this special case for flying.

“When the psychological moment arrives, he fills his lungs with air to their utmost capacity and takes the daring leap, drawing his feet aside so that the wide flying-webs become one with his body, and this begins his flight in long bold curves, taking intelligent advantage of any local puffs of wind. The whole proceeding is so grateful as to fill us with amazement that an awkward frog can manage anything of the kind.”

The rise and fall of Bulungan sultanate, a Muslim kingdom with Kayan roots

Today, the Kayan people of Borneo are known to practice mainly Christianity. Most of them have left their traditional belief called bungan and shamanism.

However, did you know that hundreds of years ago, a Muslim sultanate called the Bulungan sultanate was allegedly founded by a Kayan princess from Apau Kayan who had married a Bruneian?

Centuries ago, a great number of Kayans moved to east Borneo. There, they began the ethnogenesis of the Bulungan people when they converted to Islam.

The sultanate is located in the existing Bulungan Regency in the North Kalimantan province of Indonesia.

The center of the sultanate is today’s Tanjung Selor town which is the capital of both the North Kalimantan province and Bulungan regency.

During the peak of its reign, the sultanate territory spanned the eastern shores of North Kalimantan up to Tawau, now Malaysian Borneo.

The history of Bulungan sultanate

According to Bernard Sellato in his paper Forest, Resources and People in Bulungan, the history of the kingdom started from a group of Kayans who settled near the coast.

He stated, “This Dayak group, the Kayan Uma’ Apan, moved from Apo Kayan in the 17th century down the Kayan river, settled near Long Peleban (middle Kayan river), and then moved farther downstream to the Binai river, near the coast.

“There, a Kayan princess, marrying a visiting nobleman, Lancang, allegedly from Brunei (c.1650), started a dynasty of Indianised kings, which later was centered near Tanjung Selor. A century later (c.1750), this dynasty converted to Islam, and a long line of sultans, vassals to the sultan of Berau (himself a vassal to Kutai), followed until the 1850s, when the Dutch began interfering in local affairs, trying to eradicate piracy and the slave trade.”

Another account of the founding of Bulungan kingdom stated that it was founded by Kuwanyi, a Kayan aristocrat from Uma Apan of Usun Apau.

He was known for his leadership and bravery. Kuwanyi had a daughter named Asung Lawan. She then married a Brunei prince named Datu Mencang. It was under the reign of Asung Lawan and Datu Mencang, the kingdom became a Muslim sultanate.

Meanwhile, another origin story behind the Bulungan sultanate is more on the fantasy side.

Long time ago, there was a childless Kayan leader who found an egg and a bamboo.

He brought both home and the the egg and bamboo turned into a baby girl and and a baby boy respectively.

According to this legend, the boy and girl later founded the Bulungan kingdom.

Either way, it is widely understood that Bulungan sultanate is rooted from the Kayan people.

Kayan river
Kayan river in North Kalimantan.

A Norwegian’s visit to Sultanate of Bulungan

Carl Sofus Lumholtz (1851-1922) was a Norwegian explorer and ethnographer.

In 1913, he started an expedition to explore Dutch Central Borneo to learn about the culture in the area.

One of the few accounts about Sultan of Bulungan back then can be found in Lumholtz’s book, Through Central Borneo; an account of two years’ travel in the land of the headhunters between the years 1913 and 1917 (1920).

He wrote:

“Two days later, among mighty forests of nipa-palms, we sailed up the Kayan or Bulungan river and arrived at Tandjong Selor, a small town populated by Malays and Chinese, the number of Europeans being usually limited to two, the controleur and the custom house manager. It lies in a flat swampy country and on the opposite side of the river, which here is 600 metres wide, lives the Sultan of Bulungan.

I secured a large room in a house which had just been rented by two Japanese who were representatives of a lumber company, and had come to arrange for the export of hardwood from this part of Borneo.

Accompanied by the controleur, Mr. R. Schreuder, I went to call on the Sultan. He was a man of about thirty-five years, rather prepossessing in appearance, and proud of his ancestry, although time has so effaced his Dayak characteristic that he looks like a Malay. Dato Mansur, his executive, met us at the landing and escorted us into the presence of the Sultan and his wife, where were offered soda water and whiskey, and we were remained an hour. They are both likeable, but the Sultan appears rather nervous and frail, and it is rumoured that his health has suffered as a result of overindulgence in spiritualistic seances.

He gave an entertaining account of natives living in the trees on the Malinau river. As it had been impossible for me to obtain cartridges for my Winchester rifle, the Sultan was kind enough to lend me one of his before we parted, as well as two hundred cartridges.”

Lumholtz’s visit to the Sultanate of Bulungan took place sometimes in December 1913.

Sultanate of Bulungan under Dutch colonisation

The Dutch signed with the Sultan of Bulungan a Politiek Contract to impose their sovereignty over the kingdom in 1850.

By 1893, there was a Dutch government post set up in Tanjung Selor.

Under the Dutch control, the sultan was forced to hand over control of the remoter regions of the Bahau river, Pujungan river, and Apo Kayan.

Then in 1881, the British North Borneo Chartered Company (BNBC) was formed, placing North Borneo (present-day Sabah) under British jurisdiction.

Tawau, which was previously reigned over by Sultan of Bulungan, was claimed by BNBC.

After long negotiation with the British, the Dutch finally recognised the British borders in 1915 which is basically the border between Sabah and North Kalimantan now.

COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Groepsportret met Maulana Mohamad Djalaloeddin Sultan van Boeloengan op zijn troon TMnr 60041528
The rulling class of the Bulungan Sultanate (taken c. 1925-1935). Credit: Creative Common

Bulungan sultanate during Indonesia-Malaysia confrontation

Ultimately, the connection between the kingdom and Malaysia played a role in the fall of Bulungan.

After World War II had ended and many countries were freed from Japanese occupation, Indonesia gained its independence from the Dutch.

Unlike many sultanates in Borneo which were abolished after independence partly due to many sultans and their families being executed by the Japanese, the Sultanate of Bulungan retained its power.

Then Indonesia-Malaysia confrontation took place in 1963 because Indonesia opposed the creation of Malaysia.

During this time, the Sultanate of Bulungan was accused of being supportive toward Malaysia.

In April 1964, it was reported that a document was found proving the ties between Bulungan aristocracy and Malaysia.

It stated that the Bulungan royal family would proclaim a merger with Sabah and subsequently Malaysia.

Furthermore, the aristocrats were seen to be visiting Sabah frequently. However, many believed the visits were just because they had relatives in Tawau.

In the same month, the Indonesian army allegedly found arms in the former palace of the sultan. By now, they strongly believed that sultan and his followers would take part in the Confrontation but would lean on the Malaysian side.

COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM De sultan van Bulungan en zijn echtgenote Borneo TMnr 10001599
Abdul Jalil of Bulungan with the Queen consort (1940). Credit: Creative Common

The massacre of Bulungan royal family

Later, an order came out to arrest all members of the Bulungan royal family.

When the army arrived at the Bulungan palace on July 2, 1964, they came under the pretense of just an ordinary official visit.

Naturally, the royal family provided a feast for the army that night to welcome their visit. The Sultan had no idea what the army had planned.

In the dawn of July 3 while the family and their servants were sleeping, the army surrounded the palace.

They then proceeded to capture everyone in the palace including the sultan.

Burhan Djabler Magenda in his book East Kalimantan: The Decline of a commercial Aristocracy narrated the fate of this aristocracy.

“The aristocrats were separated into several groups. All the male members were put into one group and into one boat, while the women and children were placed in a separate boat. They were supposed to be transported first to Tarakan and from there taken to Balikpapan. This plan never materialised,” he wrote.

Instead, off the shore of Tarakan, all about 30 of them in total were gunned down by their own guards.

There, their bodies were thrown into the sea. The soldiers also burned the palace to the ground and the fire lasted for two days and two nights.

Amal Beach Tarakan 2
Amal Beach of Tarakan

The end of the Sultanate of Bulungan

While there were many different accounts about the massacre, one thing for sure was that many members of the Bulungan royal family were executed in July 1964.

Among the immediate family of Sultan Bulungan, one son was in school in Malang during the incident.

However, he was later arrested in Balikpapan and was never heard of again.

Another two sons were able to survive because they managed to escape in time. They fled to Tawau and became Malaysian nationals.

In 2017, the descendants of the Sultan revealed to an Indonesian newspaper their intentions to return to their homeland by giving up their Malaysian nationalities and become Indonesian.

As dead men cannot speak, there was no definite proof that the Bulungan royal family was supportive of Malaysia to this day which cost their lives.

Even if they were, many agreed that killing the whole family including women and children was an extreme move by the army.

Regardless, the massacre of Bulungan royal family marked the end of the sultanate.

#KajoTries ordering Nyems Sekal Cafeteria with Foodpanda

Are you scrolling through Foodpanda and undecided about what you want to eat? If you feel like local cuisine for lunch or dinner, you could try Nyems Sekal Cafeteria.

Their menu selection on Foodpanda offers diverse types of dishes served with your choice of Nasi Kukus, Nasi Putih, Mee/Kuey Teow or Nasi Goreng, and even Western, making Nyems Sekal a perfect choice if you can’t decide what you want to eat or are ordering in for yourself and family or colleagues.

On top of that, each category of dishes has interesting variations. If you pick Nasi Putih as your carb of choice, you will have so many styles and combos to choose, whether you feel like something simple like Nasi Putih Black Pepper or unusual like Nasi Putih Paprik Seafood.

The Nasi Kukus Ayam Berempah (RM13.70) and Nasi Kukus Ikan Bawal Goreng (RM18.00) are among Nyems Sekal’s popular orders.

Nyems Sekal Cafeteria Foodpanda Nasi Kukus Ayam Berempah
Nasi Kukus Ayam Berempah

Bundled up oldschool style in paper wrapping, the dishes delivered by Foodpanda came accompanied with a really tasty Indian-style curry and a side of their house blend sambal with slices of cucumber and pineapple. The sambal has the great combination of spice from the chilli and saltiness from the belacan, you’ll want to have even more sliced cucumbers or whatever you usually want on the side to finish it off.

The Ayam Berempah was cooked just right. Many ayam penyet-style dishes run the risk of cooking their chicken too dry but Nyems Sekal’s ayam berempah was moist and flavourful all the way down to the bone. Dip it into the accompanying curry or belacan and you’ll wish you ordered another one.

Nyems Sekal Cafeteria Foodpanda Nasi Kukus Ikan Bawal Goreng
Nasi Kukus Ikan Bawal Goreng

Meanwhile, the Ikan Bawal was soft, moist, and tasty from head to tail. Roughly the size of one’s hand, the fish is just between crispy and pan-fried, you’ll want to take it apart and eat it with your fingers.

For those who like their curries, Nyems Sekal offered a generous serving of curry in their delivery.

If you want to give your dish some extra oomph, you can add the telur dadar (omelette) and telur mata (fried egg sunny-side-up).

There is a huge range of hot and cold drinks available, whether you like local style cold drinks like Asam Boi or Jagung Susu, or coffee and tea drinks like Kopi Cincau and Teh Tarik Dangdut.

Prices (not including drinks) on their Foodpanda menu range from RM9.00 to RM18.90, making Nyems Sekal an affordable choice, especially for those working from home.

Customers can enjoy an automatic 30% discount menu wide across 13,600 restaurants from now until March 29 when you order RM20 and above from Foodpanda within the specific locations.

Nyems Sekal Cafeteria Foodpanda
Time to eat!

Operation Kingfisher, the rescue mission that never took place

Do you know that there was a so-called rescue plan for the Sandakan Death Marches code-named Operation Kingfisher?

The death march was a series of forced marches in Borneo from Sandakan to Ranau which resulted to the deaths of 1,047 prisoners-of-war (POWs). Meanwhile, the remaining 1,381 never left the Sandakan camp and died there.

If there was a rescue plan, how come the prisoners were never rescued?

Operation Kingfisher and Operation Agas

The Allied forces reportedly knew there was a POW camp at Sandakan thanks to Operation Agas.

The operation was a series of reconnaissance operations carried out by Z Special Unit in 1945.

Overall, the operation was executed in 5 parts. It commenced in March 1945, continuing up to September and October 1945.

In Operation Agas 1, Major F.G.L Chester landed at Sandakan along with six other personnel in early March 1945.

They managed to gather information such as the train schedule to and from Beaufort, cargo movements, and details of local timber mining.

Additionally, the operatives found out that there were Allied POWs being held at Sandakan.

Unfortunately, they were unable to get close enough to the camp to investigate.

They ultimately reported in error that the Sandakan camp had been abandoned. They reportedly didn’t know that there were 800 POWs were still alive at that time.

Many reports suggested due to the error in intelligence that the rescue mission was called off.

Or did the Allied forces know there were hundreds of men still alive yet chose not to rescue them?

Operation Kingfisher never takes place because there was no plane available?

The person who might have the answer for this was Field Marshal Sir Thomas Albert Blamey.

He was the commander-in-chief of the Australian Military Forces. Blamey was also the commander of Allied Land Forces in the South West Pacific Area under the command of American General Douglas MacArthur during WWII.

Blamey’s speech at the Second Annual Conference of the Australian Armoured Corps on Nov 19, 1947 somewhat addressed the reason why Operation Kingfisher never took place.

He declared, “We had high hopes of being able to use Australian parachute troops. We had complete plans for them. Our spies were in Japanese-held territory. We had established the necessary contacts with prisoners at Sandakan, and our parachute troops were going to relieve them. The parachute regiment didn’t know what was planned, of course. But at the moment we wanted to act, we couldn’t get the necessary aircraft to take them in. The operation would certainly have saved that death march of Sandakan. Destiny didn’t permit us to carry it out.”

His speech naturally caused a stir in the media and public back then as he was suggesting the American did not provide the necessary aircraft for the rescue mission.

Moreover, imagine the family members of the victims knowing the fact that their loved ones could have been saved.

Was it a cover up?

Mark Felton in his book The Final Betrayal: Mac Arthur and the Tragedy of Japanese POWs shared there is more than just no ‘airplane available’ for Operation Kingfisher.

“It has been suggested that there was a cover-up at the highest levels of government over the failure to launch Operation Kingfisher, especially when it became widely known after the war how many prisoners had been murdered by the Japanese on the death marches. The fiction that General MacArthur sealed the fate of the starving prisoners at Sandakan and rubbished Kingfisher by refusing to provide material support for the mission is not correct.”

Operation Kingfisher never get off the drawing board

Australian Jurist Athol Moffitt informed the National Conference of the Veterans’ Review Board that the truth was the Allied forces never even planned to execute the rescue mission.

Moffitt stated, “Rescuing the prisoners would have required a major offensive and it probably would have only resulted in the prisoners being shot anyhow … it was decided nothing could be done”.

According to Paul Ham in the book Sandakan, the Allied forces deduced that the rescue plan was ‘impractical’ and ‘unacceptable’.

It would require carrier-born combat aircraft (no carriers were operating south of the Philippines in 1945), a 600-bed hospital ship and a large task force to pull the rescue mission.

Ham stated, “All this shows that MacArthur was not the only commander dismissive of the rescue proposal. Perhaps it is consoling to feed families the myth that Kingfisher was close to being realised, the hard truth is that top brass had no intention of approving the project.”

So why did Blamey blame MacArthur for not providing the so-called airplanes?

Some historians believed that Blamey accusing MacArthur was to cover up his men’s bungle in gathering intelligence.

If Blamey really did that, it wouldn’t be the first time. Before the war when he was the Chief Commissioner of the Victoria Police, his attempt to cover up the shooting of a police officer led to his forced resignation in 1936.

Many historians managed to refute Blamey’s reason. The declassification of the Kingfisher files in the 1970s revealed that the Royal Australian Air Force in fact had enough aircraft.

Felton pointed out in his book that “The Australians had absolutely no reason to ask MacArthur to divert some of his aircraft to support Kingfisher because they already had more than enough themselves, something that Blamey conveniently forgot.”

The lives of hundreds of POWs versus of the lives of people in Borneo

This might sound cruel but some historians believed that Operation Kingfisher was considered a low priority for the Allied forces. Since it was a low priority, the mission was subsequently aborted.

The Allied forces, mainly the Australians were reportedly looking at the bigger picture at that time, the Operation Oboe.

It was the last major Allied campaign to liberate Japanese-held British Borneo (Sabah and Sarawak) and Dutch Borneo (Kalimantan).

Dr Ooi Keat Gin in his paper Prelude to Invasion: Covert Operations Before the Reoccupation of Northwest Borneo, 1944-1945 stated, “Preparations were in earnest for the launching of the Oboe operations, and it would have been a diversion of effort to mount a rescue attempt in the midst of the overall invasion plan. There was a genuine fear that an attempted rescue operation might effectively sign the death warrant for all POWs and civilian internees.”

“As for the sad ending of the Sandakan POWs, their rescue took a backseat to the execution of the principal object, namely the reoccupation of Borneo and the defeat of Japan.”

Basically, the Allied forces were busy planning to free a whole island so the lives of less than 800 sick and malnourished men were not high on their priority’s list.

And their intention was clear since during the Borneo Campaign made their first landings in Tarakan, Balikpapan, Labuan and Beaufort in Borneo but did not land in Kuching, Sandakan or Ranau where the Allied POWs located.

The mystery remains

But the one mystery remains, why did Blamey said there were no aircraft available if they never wanted to rescue them in the first place?

Perhaps telling the public that they almost rescue the POWS and blaming the Americans for not providing aircraft was more comforting for the families, rather than telling them “We did not rescue your husbands and sons because they were not our priority. And we did not actually believed the Japanese would kill them”.

Nonetheless one thing for sure, if Operation Kingfisher actually took place against all odds, hundreds of men would have been given a chance to go back to their families.

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Some of the Sandakan POWs who were commemorated at Kundasang War Memorial.

The intriguing military history of Rabaul during World War II

If you are not familiar with Rabaul, it is a township in East New Britain province in the country of Papua New Guinea.

Located on the New Britain island, the town used to be an important settlement in the province until it was destroyed no thanks to falling ash from a volcanic eruption in 1994.

Looking back to its establishment history, Rabaul was built around the harbor area called as Simpsonhafen under the German New Guinea administration from 1884 until 1919. The British Empire then captured the township during the early days of World War I (WWI).

Life before World War II (WWII)

According to Ian Townsend writing for ABC Radio Nation in 2017, Australia was given a mandate to administer New Guinea as its territory after WWI. For most of the two decades between the wars, Rabaul was its Australian capital of New Guinea.

Townsend stated, “It (Rabaul) looked a lot like a Queensland town, with high-set wooden homes and wide verandahs, red roofs and gardens of frangipani and bougainvillaea.

Australian businessmen, public servants and planters walked the wide, shady streets in white suits and stopped at the pubs to drink Australian beer.”

The town even had a racetrack, picture theaters and an Australian school.

The dawn of WWII

After the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbour on Dec 7, 1941, the country of the Rising Sun started to take control of some of the islands, including Borneo and the Philippines.

It was then expected that Rabaul would be on the list of targets. Hence, by the end of that December, the women and children (except for Chinese migrants and the local indigenous people) were evacuated.

Families were separated during the evacuation as about 2,000 Australian soldiers and male civilians were left behind in Rabaul.

The Japanese called the invasion Operation R and historians later on mostly referred to it as the Battle of Rabaul (1942).

On Jan 4, 1942, the Japanese carrier-based aircraft started its assault on the town particularly on its Vunakanau Airfield situated on a plateau just outside Rabaul.

By Jan 20, a force of over 100 Japanese aircraft comprising bombers, dive bombers and fighter escort, converged on Rabaul.

Commander Mitsuo Fuchida, who had controlled the attack on Pearl Harbour, led the Japanese force in the battle.

As the odds stacked up against the Australians, the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) commander John Lerew sent a signal to RAAF HQ in Melbourne. He signalled the Latin motto “Nos Morituri Te Salatamus” (“We who are about to die salute you”), a phrase said by gladiators in ancient Rome before entering combat.

Sure enough, the Japanese invasion force quickly overwhelmed the small Australian garrison.

In the days following the invasion of Rabaul, the Japanese began mopping up operations starting on Jan 24.

The Japanese posted up and dropped from planes leaflets in English stating, “You can find neither food nor way of escape in this island and you will only die of hunger unless you surrender.”

Awm P02395.012
 The Adler River, in the Bainings Mountains on the eastern side of the Gazelle Peninsula, an obstacle to the Australian troops retreating from Rabaul after the successful attack by Japanese forces. This is the point where at least two parties of retreating Australian troops crossed the Adler River. The first party of twenty one men from the Anti-aircraft Battery Rabaul and the 17th Anti-tank Battery crossed here on 1942-01-26 securing a lawyer vine rope to cross the river. This image was taken in late January 1942 and shows some of the men of Sergeant L. I. H. (Les) Robbins’ party fording the river as they make their way south toward Palmalmal Plantation and rescue in April 1942. Credit: Public Domain.

Why the Japanese wanted to attack Rabaul?

There are many reasons why the Japanese decided to capture this island town. While Japanese captured towns such as Tarakan and Balikpapan in Indonesia and Miri in Sarawak for their oil and gas, they wanted Rabaul so that they could turn it into a major base.

According to Gordon L. Rottmah in World War II Pacific Island Guide, Rabaul provided an ideal location to base a fleet, air assets and command and control centres for the Japanese.

The site was strategic for them to direct, launch and support the conquest of New Guinea and the South Pacific region.

“It was centrally located, and initially at least, far enough from Allied bases to protect it from air and sea attack. It possesses one of the best anchorages in the region and held abundant sites for airfields,” Rottmah stated.

Besides, its location was significant because of its proximity to the Japanese territory of the Caroline Islands, a site of a major Imperial Japanese Navy base on Truk about 1,800 km northeast of New Guinea.

Under Japanese occupation

Once they had captured the town, the Japanese wasted no time in developing it. Rottmah pointed out that the Japanese airfield program in Rabaul was extensive, with Vunakanau becoming the main Japanese airbase.

They dug many kilometres of tunnels as shelter from Allied air attacks such as the bombing of November 1943.

Additionally, they also expanded the facilities by construction army barracks and support structures.

By the summer of 1943, there were more than 100,000 Japanese troops based in Rabaul.

Operation Cartwheel

1114px New guinea
Map of the Mandated Territory of New Guinea, Papua and Bougainville 1942-45 showing sites of various battles and strategic locations. Credit: Public Domain.

With that high number of Japanese troops, how could the Allied forces possibly recapture the town?

Hence, instead of trying to capture Rabaul town, the Allies determined to neutralise Rabaul by isolating it and eliminating its airpower.

The Allied forced decided to bypass it by establishing a ring of airfields and naval bases on the islands around it.

The plan was initiated at the end of April 1943 in the codenamed ‘Operation Cartwheel’.

It called for General Douglas MacArthur, the Supreme Allied Commander in the South West Pacific Areas to approach Rabaul town from the southwest, through New Guinea and the southern Bismarcks.

Meanwhile, Admiral Chester W. Nimitz would advance through the Solomons, forming two pincers that would close in on the Japanese base.

The Allied forces involved were from Australia, the Netherlands, New Zealand, the US and various Pacific islands.

On each island the Allied forces captured, they constructed air bases, allowing them to block any westward movement by the Japanese.

Operation Cartwheel, which stretched from 1943 to 1944, proved the effectiveness of a strategy of avoiding major concentrations of enemy forces and aiming to sever the Japanese lines of supply and communication instead.

The Neutralisation of Rabaul town

US Marine Airstrike on Rabaul
A photo taken from a Marine SBD during an airstrike on Rabaul, 1944. Credit: Public Domain.

Once the Allied forces managed to slowly isolate Rabaul, they began air raid attacks on it. Allied fighters and bombers continue to attack the town through 1944 and 1945.

The Allied forces began to call the attack on Rabaul town ‘milk run’. It is a phrase US Army Air Corps and UK Royal Air Force (RAF) aircrew used to describe any mission where minimal resistance from the enemy was expected.

Eventually, the Allied forces used Rabaul as a live-fire exercise to give aircrew some training and taste of combat before the real deal.

As for the Japanese, they suffered a lot during the campaign. First of all, they no longer had a base which they could threaten the Allied in the Solomons.

Secondly, they lost many of their experienced carrier pilots and aviation maintenance personnel.

The last Allied airstrike took place on Aug 8, 1945, only weeks before the Japanese surrender.

Australian Military Court

After the war from 1945 till 1951, Australian Military Courts convened in Maratoi, Wewak, Labuan, Darwin, Singapore, Hong Kong, Manus Island and Rabaul.

Overall, 300 war crimes trials took place with 190 of them convened in Rabaul.

By the end, 812 mostly Japanese and some Korean as well as Taiwanese alleged war criminals had been tried.

The charges included ill-treatment, murder, massacre, cannibalism and other violations of war laws.

In Rabaul, there were five command responsibility trials. Sometimes referred to as the Yamashita standard or the Medina standard, command responsibility is the legal doctrine of hierarchical accountability for war crimes.

It is an omission mode of individual criminal liability and the superior is responsible for crimes committed by his subordinates.

The command responsibility trials that convened in Rabaul were namely against Major General Hirota Akira, Lieutenant General Adachi Hatazo, Lt Gen Kato Rinpei, Gen Imamura Hitoshi and Lt Gen Baba Masao.

A Japanese Manga artist and his military history in Rabaul

Of all the WWII stories which came out from Rabaul town, one of the most interesting accounts must be the story Shigeru Mizuki (1922-2015).

He was a Japanese manga artist and historian, best known for his manga series GeGeGe no Kitaro.

In 1942, he was drafted into the Imperial Japanese Army and sent to New Britain Island.

There, he contracted malaria and watched his fellow comrades died from battle wounds and disease.

During one of the Allied forces air raid, Mizuki was caught in an explosion and lost his dominant left arm.

Being the only survivor of his unit, Mizuki was instructed to commit suicide, an order he considered ridiculous.

While in a Japanese hospital Rabaul, he made friends with the local Tolai tribe. They even offered him land, a home and an offer to marry a Tolai woman.

At first, Mizuki considered the offer to remain behind in Rabaul. However, after being rebuked by a military doctor for his plan, he eventually returned home to Japan reluctantly.

The aftermath of WWII

After WWII, Rabaul and the whole of eastern New Guinea was returned to pre-war administrator Australia.

At least 1,200 Australian soldiers and civilians died within the six months following the invasion.

While some died during the battles, about 160 were massacred in the jungle on Feb 4, 1942. About 800 soldiers and 200 civilian prisoners of war (most of them Australians) lost their lives on July 1, 1942.

They drowned when the prison ship Montevideo Maru which they boarded heading to Japan from Rabaul was sunk by an American submarine.

The saddest part is that most of the families of the civilians never really knew what happened to their loved ones who were left behind in Rabaul town.

These civilian men were never given the option of leaving in the first place.

Did they die during the battle, did the Japanese massacre them or were they in the sunken prison ship? With no proper records during the Japanese occupation, we will never know and their families will never have closure.

Fast forward to the present day, tourism is a now major industry of the town. It is popular for its volcanoes, flora and fauna and the culture of the Tolai people.

To top it all, its rich WWII history provides the town with plenty of historical sites to visit and shipwrecks to explore for scuba diving.

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